RDM

Hit the google for A/C repair in your area, you might also try radiator repair shops, they sometimes do hoses/lines. Also any good hydraulic hose shop can repair or rebuild a hose since they deal with high pressure fittings.

I worked on an SC400 last year with a bad alternator, after getting it off I found the electrical plug to be damaged and one of the leads pulled loose. I had a spare car on my lot and replaced the plug along with rebuilding the alternator, that was the fix it needed. Look at the plug real well along with the main charging lead for damage, frays, or possible shorts.

Salvage yards are the only real option unless you have a competent place locally that can rebuild the hose (if you still have it). I paid $35 to have a hose rebuilt that the dealer wanted $363 for.

My point exactly, how can someone offer assistance when they can't even decipher the gibberish they're trying to read?

It's not just in Texas. I've worked on dozens of LS and SCs over the years and they all have brittle, dried out connectors, it's caused by the soaring underhood heat from these engines. Odds are any salvage yard or parts car will have the same exact problems. You might look at other Toyota models to see if they share connectors and then cut them off a junk car.

The ADUS bushing is urethane, so it's stiffer than the OE rubber one. That also means it's more durable, giving you longer life. Only downside is noise, they need to be greased once in a while to keep from squeaking. I have a pair ready to go in my LS when I have the time, as my OE bushings are completely destroyed.

Do you think you could learn to type a little? And maybe cut out the entire crying episode about stuff that has absolutely nothing to do with the thread? No one really cares about your TV or DVD player.

Which does nothing for him since it's a completely different radio.

What is a Drifit? Drift. It's pretty damn stupid even when pros do it, but an LS430 driving fast around corners isn't drifting. At all. The Cima (Q45) barely drifted twice. Pointless video.

1) Remove old plugs. 2) Install new plugs. It's not rocket science.

the12volt.com Go there. I've done several keyless and alarms in LSs over the years (along with hundreds of other cars) but I didn't bother skimming through that whole first page to verify all the wiring instructions. The door locks are negative trigger, easy to find with a basic test light, as is the trunk release wire. The majority of vehicle manufacturers follow the same basic build procedures so wiring is easy to locate if you've done a similar car before. Ignition/starter wires are always at the column, lock wires are generally always in the kick panel or in the door.

95-up models are coil over plug, they don't have separate coils that fire the distributors. I'm not even sure if they sure ignitors either.

The 1st generation LS is not an interference engine. I have read the later VVT engines are but have never worked on one personally.

If you can get it to run while diagnosing, start pulling injectors one at a time to see which cylinders are dead. From there you can determine if the dead cylinders are fuel or spark related by testing for spark with a screwdriver, if you have spark then it's fuel. If it won't run on it's own power, it is probably timing, the belt could have broken or simply sheered a few teeth off from age or wear. The battery dying may lead you to fuel pump damage too, trying to run on very low voltage can cause the pump to overheat. Mine has had broken spark plug wires twice in it's life, once the OE set, another from a Ebay seller that I should have known was junk but bought anyway. Both times it was just as random as yours. Start with the basics and work out.

Shine a flashlight down under the intake manifold into the valley between the cylinder heads. Look for coolant there. There's a crossover pipe that exits the back of the water pump and travels to the rear of the engine, then into the heater core. It's sealed at the front with just a rubber o-ring that can easily wear and begin leaking. I just replaced mine after a few months of it lightly leaking then finally dumping a gallon on a cold day.

I bought brand new chrome strips when I repainted my car a few months ago. Both front and rear, at dealer net, were about $330. They're not cheap. As for a bumper cover, you can find a used one for $200 or less at most salvage yards, and that would be an even easier option if you don't want to drive around with yours removed for a few days. As far as the other members asking if that's OE, I've never seen OE paint crack like without physical damage to the urethane. Paint will spiderweb a little but actually to crack and chip off would require a seriously hard impact, or improperly prepared paint.

If there's a hole in the Y pipe, that would easily trip the O2 sensor closest to it. Replacing the Y pipe will require breaking hardware loose that's probably corroded, thus the $600 he wants, but that's still ridiculous. Older exhaust bolts always break so he's preparing for it. But if it truly is just a 'hole', I'd weld it shut, for a price of maybe $50 at a competent muffler shop.

Owners manual will tell you. There's fuseboxes inside and under the hood.

Not a bad piece, but for $208 it's pricey since the only thing you gain is keeping the OE subwoofer, which in most cases is near it's death anyway. Sitting in the rear deck the sun destroys it fast. Mine was brittle and the surround was coming apart when I took it out three years ago. The regular Toyota harness adapter plugs right in to power the door speakers, which sound better with a more powerful head unit anyway. For the newer models like 430 it's a better option since you're integrating into more systems.

I have tried to read your post four times and simply cannot understand a thing you're saying. Between the misspelled words, missing punctuation, and bad grammar I'd swear you wear typing blind with your toes.

My '92 was creaking a bit a couple months ago, I replaced the lower ball joints, tie rods, tie rod ends, swaybar bushings, and endlinks. I still have a pop, but not as bad, so I'm thinking either the front strut rod bushing is bad or the caliper is sticking, as it does it both braking and going over bumps, but only on the driver side. In the rear I had a bad rattle too, turns out one of the rear endlinks was just loose. The socket has an allen head bolt, you can hold it with an allen wrench and tighten the nut with a box end wrench to secure it better, that may be your problem. You can remove the nut and check for play in the endlink, a lot of play or signs of grease leakage should send you buying new ones.

I've always found it easier to just add a basic keyless entry and interface with the OE alarm, especially on older cars. I too used to install mobile electronics and still do a little on the side, I use a Prestige (Audiovox) unit in my LS, keyless entry with upgradable features for like $18 cost. It has light flash, horn output, entry illumination, 2step door locks, 2nd and 3rd channel outputs, and a starter disable circuit, LED, programmable valet, everything besides an impact sensor basically. Going full blown alarm is fine, but you're arguing apples and oranges with your choices, DEI/Omega share platforms and the majority of the Python, Viper, Hornet, Sidewinder, etc. are all the same thing. Not liking one but using another is like saying you don't like an ES300 but you'll drive a V6 Camry. Same car by all intents. If the remote isn't programming, are you sure the unit is seeing a true ignition input? And the valet switch is properly working? And how do you know either unit worked fully in the first place?

There's an HID lighting forum that will detail all the local laws and legalities. Go browse around on it.

Those three are all quality speakers, you don't have the power levels to notice a big difference between any of them anyway. Your biggest concern is to make sure the speaker, which ever one you buy, is fully sealed to the enclosure.

I do a fluid drop and fill every 30k miles, and drop the pan and replace the filter every 100k miles. It's simple, preventative maintenance. I've never believed in lifetime fluid, ATF is ATF, it eventually breaks down regardless of what type.