RDM

I have a question. A few months ago I ordered a replacement pair of engine mounts from mybushings.com, they were stocking the Adus urethane replacement units. I misread the description (it said fits left and right) and assumed the price for a pair, however I only got one. No problem, but when I checked back they regrettably no longer could get the #9200 engine mount so I'm stuck with just one. Fine, I can buy an OE mount to make the pair. My question is for those who have done it personally, which side was in worse shape? The engine torques over the left (sitting in the car) so there's compression on the driver side mount, deflection on the passenger side. I'm curious which one sees more wear, as that will be the side that gets the urethane mount since it will be a bit stiffer, eliminating the increased wear factor. I'm a mechanic by trade and have no problem doing the job, but I want to be prepared and not just assume one side will be the worse of the two based on a guess.

If it was a VVT-i engine, no. The later models are interference type and a broken belt leads to piston/valve contact. In those cases, rebuilding the heads that were damaged and pulling the pistons for replacement is easily more costly than dropping another engine in.

Hot glue isn't a bad idea, but get the black glue made for plastics and let it get seriously hot. Like liquid form, that way it melts the surface it's bonding to a little for a tighter fit. You could also try plastic welding the tabs back on the grille face if you still have them. The OE size is indeed a 5", but the OE speakers are slightly smaller cones on a larger frame. An amplifier wouldn't hurt if the volume level isn't what you expected, just remember to match it closely in RMS wattage to the speakers for the best effect.

I also own a 240SX that I use for autocross competitions, the first 'mod' kids do with these is to remove the clutch fan and shroud and just use the OE fitted electric fan. It works alright on a 4cylinder with loads of room around it, but the Lexus V8 is crammed into the car with zero clearance anywhere, so there's limited airflow around it already. I'd bet underhood temps have risen 20 degrees without it installed, and substantially more on a hot day in traffic. Again, your call, but it's your head gaskets too.

That doesn't make any sense. You're saying it has the OE factory radio in it? It's made by Pioneer. Will it work with a bluetooth, no, if it's an OE radio it's 13yrs old, bluetooth technology didn't exist then. An aftermarket Pioneer deck (or any) with steering wheel input and bluetooth could be installed if you don't mind losing the subwoofer unless you also buy the adapter harness to integrate into the OE amplifier.

The dead door lock is indeed the actuator. As far as the keyless unit, I don't know where it is on Gen 2 models, it's under the driverside on Gen 1s.

Basing your findings off the temp gauge isn't a good idea. Most Japanese cars, including Toyotas, don't have a true variable gauge, it registers cold, operating temp, and hot, but without any true measure of temperature. The middle zone can be anywhere from 180 degrees to 240 degrees, and it's typical for it not to register full hot until it's too late.

I highly doubt it, I've never seen one in all my years of car audio work. Your only option would be to find a matching plug somewhere else in the car (unlikely, but worth a shot), then cut it out of a salvage car. I did that for a customer on a Nissan Maxima, we found that the plug in the door matched something else that wasn't offered like an amp plug, so I cut one out of a wrecked car.

I agree, you can just unplug it easily. If you want to replace it, go buy one at the dealer and do it yourself. It is just as easy, I haven't seen the later models but early ones the float just pushes into the tank with a grommet. It is definitely not an all day job, an hour at best.

The signal input will match the wires you have in the dash, then the output wires are the same for any Toyota, you can find it in 12volt.com but I think they're like pink and purple, light green and blue, red and white, and yellow and black for the speakers. They're twisted together so it's easy to find if you strip back the loom a bit. You can even use the remote turn-on wire too at the radio so all you'll need to run is a power wire from the battery.

That is an awesome idea, as many shortcuts as I invented to do mine I didn't think of that one.

It will definitely be totaled, but you can buy it back to fix or part out for very little and still get a check for the car.

There's really no need to upgrade the speaker wiring unless you plan on running several hundred watts to each door. The OE twisted pair is 16gauge which is plenty large enough to handle the power. People often mistake speaker wiring with power wiring, you're not running the same amount of voltage, so the 'bigger is better' theory isn't true unless it's solid core wire. Stranded wire creates it's own resistance, and with minimal voltage (say the 3-5V a speaker receives) you won't gain anything by running new wire. Plus the OE shielded cable for the preamp signal is well isolated from interference, if you ran your own RCA cables you'd want to copy that routing to keep them away from any EMI. I'd use everything that already exists and be done with it.

Any Lexus or Toyota 5lug wheel will fit as long as they clear the brake caliper. So for most choices, at least a 15" wheel since that was OE. There's a company that makes replica Lexus wheels, they do the LS430, RX330, GS430, and IS350 wheels in silver and gunmetal colors for about $125 each. You can find them on Ebay but can buy direct from them and save the anal raping that Paypal gives you. They may have LS460 replicas in the works or even available already, though not in chrome. IMO, chrome looks like !Removed! anyway, but to each his own.

That's the differential. The transmission's at the other end of the car. Why would you think that's the transmission? Both of your axles appear to be covered in a mist of fluid too, they probably have blown CV joints or the diff's output seals are pouring, with that much it's at least a half quart low. The entire exhaust system is welded, how else would they put pieces together? The part is question is a resonator, not a muffler. And the amount of rust is likely due to the car being from the North or a Coastline, it is 20yrs old now, any corrosion you'll see on a car begins with the exhaust system.

Has a Lexus emblem on it, looks like the LS460 OE alloy, why would the bolt pattern be wrong? Any Toyota 5 bolt wheel is 5x114.3.

The dealer or a salvage yard will have both, and yes the sensor does leak over time. Mine weeps just a little, I'm waiting until it's worse before fooling with it. Problem is the system is pressurized, so if coolant leak out, air can seep in. A bigger leak will draw in air and cause air pockets in the cooling system.

Try calling Sports and Imports in Norcross, GA, they're a Lexus only salvage yard. Plenty of clusters to choose from.

I wouldn't do it. The clutch fan with a proper shroud will move more air than any electric fan ever could, especially when done like that link, since the shroud is gone. The airflow is less directed. You also have to consider that if a clutch fan goes out the fan still turns, while when an electric fan goes out you have zero airflow. The two front mounted fans are mainly for A/C engagement, they do come on but only when the engine temp reaches high enough.

It's been ages since I took one apart, but the Nakamichi deck does use an external amplifier for the entire system. You don't have to run wires though, you can match up the deck's preamp outputs to the trunk area and just tie them together to the speaker leads, IE if you have a white and black matched pair in the front, use that same set in the rear and tie it to a speaker pair in the trunk. The deck has four outputs total, so you can use them all to run the four door speakers (the tweeters are wire parallel to the front door speakers). The subwoofer though won't work without an adapter, there is a company that offers an interface harness but it's like $200. That would be far easier than running your own wires, and on the point of body repair it's better because *if* you have to remove/replace a door you don't want to deal with cutting and then splicing your wire you ran, the OE door harness unplugs in the car.

The OE strip is snapped in and secured with 3M tape. You can grab one end and just pull, it comes right off, but you'll then need to remove all the old adhesive.

My '92 is lowered on KYB GR2 shocks/Tanabe DF210 springs, with OEM LS430 Sport 18" wheels on 245/45-18 tires. It's a noticeable improvement over when I got it, but it did have 160k on the OE parts. You might also want to look at ball joints/rod ends for play, firming these up with new parts does a lot too, and visually inspect all bushings and other components for wear while you're at it. Funny thing, even after lowering it still rode 'springy', it wasn't until I replaced the front seats with buckets out of an '03 IS300 that I realized a lot of the feel I was experiencing was from the big, fluffy stock seats. Now with more solid seats it's twice as tight as it was with just the suspension.

Unplug the fluid level switch on the master cylinder and see if it goes away. If so, the fluid level sensor is bad, mine did the same thing. I just unplugged it, I'm smart enough to keep an eye on fluid level without needing to buy a probably expensive OE part.

Toyota liked to use the same motor throughout their lineup, you can find a replacement unit from numerous other 90s model Toyotas in salvage yards or buy a reman unit at most auto parts places for no more than $60. There's an application listing somewhere online I found that lists all the models that share the motor. Replacement is very easy to do and you do not have to pull the glass, just unbolt and raise it up out of the way.

You can't pull the codes yourself? There's a good tutorial on lexls.com.