RDM

Did you not read the reply above? You can remove the belt and drive it a VERY short distance. If you can't get the belt off due the tensioner being damaged, cut it. Drive slowly, gently, and carefully to where you need to go. Don't use any electrical accessories like radio, fan, windows, anything as you'll quickly drain the battery down.

Solenoid is shorted across the contacts, keeping the gear drive engaged. Mine did that two years ago after a beer festival. You can dissect the battery terminal wiring and take the starter lead off the positive terminal (leave the rest of the wiring), turn the key on, then just tap the starter lead to the terminal enough to get it started, then take it off so it's not still running the solenoid, this is if you need to move/drive it. Otherwise, pull the starter off and have it rebuilt/replaced.

Does it appear to be OEM, or aftermarket? The OE phone transceiver is located in the trunk, you can just unplug it and remove it. Aftermarket, trace the wiring from the cradle to where ever the transceiver is and remove anything associated.

Take the glass out first, then you can better diagnose the problems.

The Nakamichi amplifier is mounted underneath the CD changer, maybe remove and check it for loose plugs, debris in it, damage, etc.

The lower control arm has a very large cam bolt to adjust the front camber, it could have been adjusted or replaced and not reset. But as said, any competent alignment shop can handle it, your car isn't anything difficult or obscure to align.

A bad O2 sensor just runs in open loop, not rough, just in a 'limp mode' where it's slightly down on power. It would still idle flat and rev fine, just with a little decrease in performance.

The ACV sees vacuum on two ports, one is on the intake piping, the other on the front of the plenum. I would first make sure that the ACV is indeed removed and fitted with a plug or at least capped off, and that both ports on the engine are capped. They're very small so you could get engine hesitation without stalling if one was left open, but it'd be pretty noticeable when inspecting. The amount of fluid sucked into the intake won't make a huge difference, it's already gummed up from years of debris so unless you took in a few gallons at once that's not the culprit, though I wouldn't ignore the idea of hot tanking the intake plenum anyway (I just did a timing belt on an SC400 with 277k miles, the intake was literally caked with over a half inch of carbon and deposits). As for the steering, regular PS fluid is known to cause dead spots or heavy steering as it breaks down faster from heat, and it degrades quickly leaving varnish in the lines and hoses. But again it wouldn't happen that quickly, probably a combination of air in the system and a weak or faulty pump is your issue.

Not on a 1994 model. Key transponders and interfaces weren't offered until the late '90s, and not on Lexus cars until the LS430 I believe. I say the ignition switch because if it's not providing power while the key is on or in start positions the ECU and all controls wouldn't be powered. Though unlikely it's easy to check and rule out.

If the engine is overheating, fuel can ignite early and cause the car to feel low on power, but if it continues after it's cooled down then you've got another problem. I wouldn't think a fuel filter would do anything unless it's already clogged, but it's not a symptom of overheating for certain.

I assume you've checked every single fuse in the car, correct? You might also want to check the ignition switch itself.

It's a long shot, but worth checking. My 1992 had a rattle similar to something loose in the glovebox, but louder. I chased it down for over a week and finally found that the passenger side wheel well liner was loose. It's secured with screws that run into plastic anchors that snap into the body of the car, one of those anchors had pulled out so it was flapping over bumps or at speeds, seems impossible but that little piece of plastic hitting the body can cause just the right resonance to sound louder and more solid. I used silicone to secure it better and haven't heard a thing since.

The frame could be bent. The parts car I bought to pilfer from had both front seats leaned like that, I took them apart and one was indeed bent, the outside frame was tweaked from either someone heavy sitting to one side or perhaps in an accident. The other culprit could be the motor is binding up when reclined, causing it to tilt to one side instead of lay flat.

It's a sealed bearing, replace only. Takes less than 2 minutes.

The light won't always trigger, especially if it's an erratic problem, the ECU has to see the fault twice in a cycle before coming on. The connection on the coolant temp sender can corrode and only make minimal contact at times, when heated it's expanded enough to complete the circuit. Unplug it completely and you'll get a better answer.

There's your answer, a blued rotor means the caliper is sticking, and the rotor is likely warped. That would lead to the vibrations you're getting, especially when braking.

Been debating on these both for a while. I love the look of the door visors, but as we all know the only US ones offered are for the front doors only. I think that's kinda stupid, does anyone have a picture of just the fronts so I can decide if I like it? The JDM ones pop up from time to time on Ebay but sell for a lot, and are usually weather badly and missing clips. My door frames have been powdercoated gunmetal so there's no chrome strip to worry about covering up, so I don't think it'd look to bad with just the fronts but I don't want to order them just to return them a day later. Someone must know where to find a decent picture, or have one. Also, been hunting the OE splashgaurds for a while. I found links to a Canadian dealer, emailed them, they're no longer available it seems, does anyone else have a line on them or any information? I'd need the 1994 set since I upgraded to 1994 door/rocker mouldings, US dealers are no use either.

Dunk it in water. The bead could be bad, you could have a pinhole in the tread, or it could just be misaligned from hitting a good curb or pothole. Highly doubt the rim is the problem.

Advance, NAPA, AutoZone, any of those places will stock Wearever rotors. They're just standard blanks, OE type, but cheaper. A lot cheaper.

?? The ABS unit is a pump, true, but it only works when the brake pedal is depressed. Just turning the key on won't do a thing.

ASTON Martin.

It's a 10min job for even the unqualified, very easy. Another bonus is since the exhaust system is mounted to the transmission, you gain more clearance once the mount is replaced as it's no longer sagging.

Why would you assume the whole dash must come apart when the A/C head is right there in front of you? There's a sticky on this. They all black out over time. Remove and either send it off to get it replaced, buy an LCD and do it yourself, or buy a rebuilt unit.

Great attempt, but total failure. As stated the car does not have plug wires. Getting 20% off something that doesn't exist is kind of pointless.

You can buy a full set of KYB or Tokico replacement shocks for less than $400. Install at a decent place should be more than $200, I always do them myself but you may not have the inclination to do so. Check the upper mounts and replace as required while they're apart. I didn't and now mine squeak like hell, very irritating.