RDM

True, and the gains you would receive are negligible. The Nakamichi unit has a little more power but the options is has over the Pioneer unit aren't any better. Going aftermarket is a better option to get a quality deck, you can get a double DIN radio from nearly any manufacturer that's light years better with more options including GPS, Bluetooth, MP3, MP4, USB and SD card readings, etc., the only downside is you have to add an external amplifier to drive the subwoofer. I have a Pioneer CD in mine and deleted the subwoofer, you really can't tell it's missing.

The paint cracked like that because it's been repainted before without proper flex additive. I'd strip the bumper down before repainting to insure there's no issues later. Removal is pretty easy for a novice and will cut your labor down a good bit at a shop, figure paintwork $150-250 or so.

Most new pumps don't come with the valve. I don't remember the pitch either, I just took the old valve to the hydraulic hose supply store and matched it up to a fitting. Same can be done at a quality hardware store.

I'm late on this, but have comments as well. I do brakes on a variety of cars including mine, my parents, friends, and some customers, a total of maybe 30 cars typically during the year, I never put shims back in on any car I do. I just put the raw pads in and that's it. Some cars just squeak from wear or the type of pad, I've found both my parents' Cadillacs constantly make noise if I use full metallic pads, semi metallics make less noise, ceramics are dead quiet. Other cars like other types of pads, but the shims are a useless item IMO. My LS is a '92 currently with the original brake parts but I have a set of 1998 rotors and pads ready to go on when I get time to buy calipers. I've changed the fronts once and used metallic pads, no issues except some dusting, rears are still the ones that were on the car when I bought it for 45k miles ago. I think shims are used by some people for the illusion of a quiet install but I've never seen putting shims back in quiet a noisy caliper. To each his own though, the extra few dollars doesn't hurt if you're a believer of them.

Yes, as I said above the MAF code is just related to other symptoms. Since the O2s are giving incorrect readings the ECU is being tricked into thinking the MAF is bad too. Do not replace it until they've proven it is indeed bad, and this will only be possible when the O2s are replaced, the codes are cleared, the monitors are reset, and the car has been driven for several miles.

The main valve is located on the firewall, right behind the engine. Adjust the temp control and watch the cable, make sure it moves fully in both directions. That will get you started.

On the front coolant 'bridge' there are two senders, there's more towards the passenger side. One has a single wire, this is for the gauge, the second one, 2wire, is the ECU's sender. And indeed if it's bad or sending the incorrect signal the ECU is stuck in the cold fuel map, consuming a much higher rate of fuel.

I agree, aluminum transfers heat faster (which is great for a radiator) so it will get hotter than without a shroud at all. Plus there doesn't seem to be any air space between the shield and the casing, so there's no way to disperse the heat. I would either reduce it in size or mount it away from the case using spacers of some kind if that was the only option, but it would be far easier to just repair the leak and not risk burning up the alternator that you just spent time to replace already.

The worst thing you can do is just start replacing random parts. A MAF code rarely ever means the MAF is bad, it could be as simple as a bad coolant temp sensor tricking the ECU into seeing an A/F ratio fault, as the car will stay in the cold fuel map, thereby showing trouble with both the MAF, O2s, and the ignition primary circuit. A proper diagnosis will not only show the codes, but how those codes relate to each other. Begin by narrowing down what parts can be faulty to trigger all the codes instead of just replacing all the parts. The dealer will have a better scan tool than any OTC parts store and be able to monitor and access each individual sensor, so if you're questionable at diagnosing it yourself it's an easy way to know for sure. Even being the mechanic I am I sometimes send the car to the dealer to verify so I'm not guessing, I just had an ES300 yesterday that came up with three codes that were all possible culprits, it's easier and usually less costly to narrow it down to a specific item than to just replace all the parts on a whim.

Since you have to remove either the alternator or the power steering pump to make a good shroud, why not just fix the leak? The pump is easy to replace and it's more than likely just the idle up switch leaking, which is even easier to do since the pump doesn't have to be removed.

The alternator is a very simple swap if you've got some mechanical background. Unbolt, unplug, and remove. It can be taken out from the top or the bottom, but if you go from the top the fan and shroud need to be off to gain clearance.

The pumps are different, and the LS reservoir won't fit the SC pump. If you plan on replacing it anyway, why not replace it with an LS pump, remove the vacuum hoses, and plug the idle up solenoid? That's way easier than trying to adapt the SC parts over.

Like any rear main seal you have to pull the transmission. Whether or not that's something you can tackle is your call.

True, but my car heats up fine and the gauge is always accurate. And as I said, at speed there's plenty of heat, it's only at idle that it goes cold. A thermostat would not have that effect.

My car does this too, and I've found a slight leak around the front coolant 'bridge' somewhere, just haven't attacked it yet. It seems the cooling system on these cars is designed to divert flow from the heater core in case of low coolant level, to avoid engine overheating. When my tank is full there's always heat, but as soon as it gets to a low enough point there's only heat when driving above 3k rpm. The temperature gauge never moves though during these times, confirming that the coolant isn't getting any hotter even when down a little. An air leak would also do the same thing as coolant leaking out means air is coming in, causing an air pocket somewhere that moves through the system when really pumping, but stays put at idle. Check for leaks and refill the system to the proper level, that's the first and most effective step.

Seriously, check the fuse for the circuit, it's obvious it doesn't work.

If it's an OEM Pioneer radio, you're screwed. The CD changer harness is part of the subharness in the car. You'd need to find a wrecked LS400 with the exact matching options as yours but with the changer also, then pull the entire passenger harness from dash to trunk. If it's an aftermarket Pioneer radio, or the cable from a Pioneer dealer. And why are you typing in all caps? There's no need for that.

Flat black? It's not painted originally, so why would you think there's a paint code? Plastic is generally molded, not painted.

Just above you I said it's on the passenger side. Why would you continue to assume it's on the driver side?

Bleeding just entails turning the wheel left to right numerous times, while the engine is running. You may even find a short drive doing figure eights will help. But by changing the fluid to the correct stuff you may have uncovered a problem that was already existing, the ATF is a thinner, lighter fluid so if you had a leak it's more prominent now.

The cable exits the transmission case on the passenger side, about half way back on the case. You really can't see it anywhere unless you crawl under the car.

Did both vehicles have the exact same options? I put a '93 dash into my '92, my car did not have the full list of options so now my mirrors no longer work, the donor car had the memory settings and uses a different schematic including an extra module to control the mirrors. You may have a similar issue unless you swapped the wiring harness from the old dash back over.

Unplug the motor. Place a 12-14V battery from a drill to the motor directly, providing power. If it does not move or sparks, the motor is bad. Typically if neither switch works, it is the motor. My '92 driver rear wouldn't roll up from either switch, but would roll down fine. That was a bad switch. Since power feeds through the sub switch (on the rear door), it's likely the motor is dead if neither leg of the circuit is doing anything.

I always use an impact socket slightly smaller than the locking nut, hammer it on to the nut, then remove it. Working at a shop you have to figure people always loose their keys and when buying salvage cars the keys are always somewhere else besides in the car. Works fine, but as mentioned you will have to replace it once removed.

You're kidding, right? Read it again. A T F . AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION FLUID. Every single auto parts store sells it. KMart sells it. WalMart sells it. Target sells it. It's FLUID. Where do you buy your power steering fluid? Go back and buy ATF instead. Seriously? A part number for a bottle of liquid??? Am I the only one who thinks this is the most bizarre request ever?