obergc

You may have a bad capacitor on one of the circuit boards in the instrument cluster although I think it usually is a slow or erroneous reading. It would be the first thing I would check. There is a lot written on this subject here. http://www.clublexus.com/forums/showthread...15&pagenumber=6

Pete, Here is a link to the most comprehensive info on the subject of instrument cluster problems, including an erroneous gas gage. Curt http://www.clublexus.com/forums/showthread...15&pagenumber=6

Pete, The schematics for the instrument cluster are not in the repair manual. There has been an extensive amount of info on this subject written in this forum and at clublexus.com. Unfortunately a lot of the good info in this forum was lost recently. You can go to clublexus.com and search for ( 'instrument cluster circuit board is bad $1000 bucks!!!) I have the jist of this thread in the attached document. If you are handy with a soldering iron you can probably fix your problem with the info here. Curt O Instrument_Clust_Fixr.doc

If the security code is set and you disconnect the battery before clearing it, you will have problems with the radio working after connecting the battery. If the security code is NOT set, you will have no problems disconnecting and reconnecting. I have the Pioneer radio in my 93 LS and have disconnected the battery many times without any problem, however, you lose the station memory settings when you disconnect but this is no big deal. Read the owners manual, it is very detailed about how it works. I was lucky and the previous owner did not have the security feature enabled on the radio. Curt O

Others have reported to have fixed the inaccurate and slow fuel gage reading by replacing some electrolytic capacitors on the powersupply board in the instrument cluster. Curt O

I use a thin bladed table knife, the lower cover I believe has 3 clips about evenly spaced across the front. You can insert the table knife and carefully slide it along the parting line and find the clip and then pry. These clips are made of a spring steel (at least on my car they are) and I have had them out several times for various reasons and have not damaged any of them yet. They can be a little stubborn but not too difficult. You can protect the dash material by putting a layer of tape on the knife blade. Good luck. Curt

absolutely correct advice Richard, there are some subtle differences between years. Curt

Are you losing water from the coolant reservoir, if not, and the oil is clear and not milky, I wouldn't worry about it.

On the 93 and I think on the 94, the a/c filter is removed from the bottom of the evaporator/blower assy. You have to pry off the bottom dash cover and then on the bottom of the blower assy you will find 2 wing nuts. Remove the wing nuts and cover and the then the filters (2 each actually) can be removed from the bottom of the blower. You have to fold the filter at the crease because it is too long to drop straight out the bottom without folding. They are not exactly cheap, I think I had to pay about $45 for the two from Lexus. Curt

I fully agree with VMF, the LS400 is relatively easy to work on with access to the shop manuals. I bought all three and I almost believe that you can just about completely disassemble the car with a 10MM wrench and socket. The LS400 is a well engineered car, OE is debatable but I don't think so. It has all the whistles and bells that any luxury sedan has and I believe that overall, it doesn't have as many problems as many other makes. Mechanically I believe the drive train is superior to most. Curt

The filter is on the left (drivers side) of the engine and I think a lot of guys try to just remove a couple of bolts holding the plastic pan on because it's a lot easier then removing the entire pan. That's why my plastic pan had cracks running through several bolt holes. If you want to save damaging your plastic engine under cover, I would take the time to remove all the bolts on the left side of the engine for sure. A good jack and jack stands make the job easier. Curt

Jamie, Are you getting a check engine light or any other symptoms when the engine dies? I assume it is starting up again after it quits. When is the engine dying, as you slow down or as you come to a complete stop? Was it doing this before your 120K checkup? You need to give us more info. Curt

send my your email address and I will send you a procedure for probably fix your problem for almost zero $. Send it to obergc@cox.net. Curt

about $35 from lexus-parts.com Curt

I am losing a little bit of coolant out of the reservoir but I am finding that it is leaking from the reservoir somehow. It's not leaking much and it only takes about a cup of water to put the low coolant light out and it comes up to the right level when it's warm. So far I haven't been able to find out where the leak is but it's apparently near the top of the reservoir. I suspect that the cap may not be working properly and the reservoir is not being pressurized as it should. Gonna check it out further soon. Curt

I believe I remember a post something like yours where the problem is caused by a broken ground wire in the trunk hinge area. I believe some wires run through the drivers side hinge and that it is a common problem to have broken wires in that area. I may be wrong but you might check it out. Curt

Check first to make sure you haven't accidentally hit the remote off switch on the instrument panel. Twice, my wife thought the battery in her remote was bad and I found the switch turned off. Curt

I'm paying about 325/6 months here in Florida, full coverage.

I think that they had a server crash or something like that. A lot of very good information and posts appears to be gone. Curt

Your door open bulb not coming on may be just a dirty door courtesy switch. Send me your email addy to obergc@cox.net and I will send you a procedure for cleaning your switches, no need to replace it. When your door is standing open, just move the door open switch around (it is covered by a rubber boot on the door pillar) and see if the door open light flickers off and on. A common problem and the switch can cause a host of other problems also but not the airbag light problem. Let me know if you want it. Curt

You might try sending VMF a PM, I think he has a 96 and somewhere along the line, the procedures for using diagnostics changed and I'm not sure where the breaking point is. I think VMF might be able to give you better advice, my car is a 93 LS and the pins you are jumpering are the right one for a 93. Curt

I have removed my side lamps several times per the instructions in the manual, remove the single screw at the top of the light, then the light prys out from the leading edge. It has a nylon stud that snaps in place. I believe it should be the same on your 91. Can't help you on the bulbs, don't have my owners manual handy and it's frustrating to not be able to find simple information like what types of bulbs are used in a shop manual 3" thick. Curt

Hey Tansupplyman, check the tail end of your posting about saving some of the better posts, I put the info on the 3 caps that I had saved in a word document. Here it is again. Instrument_Clust_Fixr.doc

I think broken wires at the trunk hinge line are a fairly common problem. If you have one broken wire there, there is a good chance you may have other damaged wiring as well. Your picture doesn't do much good I'm afraid. Can the bracket be removed or repositioned so that you can get some slack in the wire bundle to look all the wiring over. I think you may be on the right track for your trunk unlock problem, on the 93 LS, the wire going to the unlock solenoid is a black wire. Curt

Did you turn the ignition switch ON after you put the jumper in? Curt