1990LS400

There have been a few posts in the past about turning off the DRL's. I see this is only your 2nd post so you may not be aware of the power of the search feature of this forum. Try searching for DRL. Turning off DRL is not one of the CBES (Custonmized Body Electronic System) settings in my LS - I just now checked my list - and I would be surprised if it is on your LX. I'm always curious about why someone would want to turn off the DRL's. I've driven with headlights on during the day since about 1970 after I read studies about the reduction of accidents in northern Europe associated with the introduction of DRL's. I've done quite a bit of driving in upstate New York the past few years and have been surprised at how many dark heavily forested areas I've driven through on winding 2-lane roads. I had never realized that New York was like that. I'd really appreciate it if you would leave your DRL's on so I don't hit you the next time I drive in upstate NY. :( But turn them off if you must - I don't think they are required by law.

The chrome wheels on my 00 LS were badly pitted after three Kansas winters. My chrome wheels were not exactly "OEM" since they were Lexus Platinum Series wheels that the dealer had chromed by a California company and sold as a new car option. However, my co-worker's 99 LS really did have the official Lexus chrome wheel option and his wheels were incredibly pitted even sooner than mine. When my chrome wheels were replaced under warranty I bought a relative inexpensive set of Mille Miglia wheels to use with the snow tires. After almost two years of non-winter use the replacement chrome wheels are still like new. I suppose that, if you wash and wax chrome wheels like "SK" says, the chrome might last a lot longer. But that is really hard to keep up in the winter if you live where gets very cold. You could probably easily keep chrome wheels clean in the winter in warm Vancouver but it could be difficult in (Siberian) Ontario where my mother's family came from.

We are hoping that Toyota will sell wagons in the U.S. again. Our ideal wagon would be fairly large and based on the Avalon but we would buy a Camry wagon if Toyota ever sells them here again. I've ridden in Toyota Avensis Combi wagons (not the Avensis van) a few times outside the U.S. and I like them more that the similar size Camry they replaced: http://www.toyota.is/?PageID=11 I wish they would sell them here. As much as we want a wagon, I can't bring myself to leave Toyota for another brand - we keep cars a looong time. For now, I'll continue to rent a truck or use a delivery service when we need to haul something that won't fit in one of our cars. "Toyota, would you please build an Avalon wagon for us?"

artseattle, I hate to tell you but I have to agree with your dealer. If your warranty specifically excludes chrome, that means that the warranty company will not pick up the tab and the dealer will be stuck with the full cost of replacement. That five year warranty you bought (you paid for it in the purchase price) is really just an insurance policy. (Shuush - we aren't allowed to call them "insurance policies".) An item has to be covered by the policy before the warranty company will pay. If the chrome had been covered by the warranty, the premium for the warranty policy would have been higher - the dealer would have had to include this additional cost into the price you paid for the car. I'll bet there are several specialty wheel shops in Seattle that can remove the chrome from the bead seal. You might even find one that will rechrome your wheels for a lot less than the dealer quoted you. Love Seattle - great city! Been there many times. (Even climbed Rainier twice.) Good luck.

If you can not write off lease payments as a business expense, a "personal lease" is always a financial disaster. Even as a business expense, leasing is a questionable proposition and used only by businesses that are "cash poor". Do some research. But yes, if you think you have to have a car every 2 - 3 years, then a personal lease may not be that much worse than an outright purchase. Whether you purchase or lease, you pay a very high cost if you have to have a new car every 2 - 3 years. As I have said before on this forum, the greatest economies are achieved by keeping a car as far past its depreciable life as possible - for personal cars, we (including my CPA wife) aim to keep a purchased car for at least 10 years. Regardless of if a car is used for personal or business use, the lowest cost way to drive a car is to save up the money and pay cash. Paying cash puts you in the strongest position in the negotiation process and tends to moderate the cost of cars that are purchased. It is a very sobering act to write a check for an expensive car - it really makes you think about what you are doing and the choice you are making. If we can do it, anyone can.

Chrome wheels - even ones chromed by an aftermarket service - should hold up far longer than a couple of months without pitting. Ask the dealer for still another set of wheels! And another set after that if necessary. My badly pitted chrome wheels were replaced under warranty, when the car was about 39 months old, with wheels from the same chrome service. (The original lessee used them during the winter - lots of salt is used on roads here in the Midwest.) I would have preferred non-chrome replacement wheels but the dealer rep said that the warranty allowed replacement only with the exact same wheel type that the car was sold with. But after almost two years and no winter use, the replacement chrome wheels look brand new and have absolutely no pitting. It really is possible to get properly chromed wheels to hold up. I hope you have better success with the next set!

An automotive stethoscope is very useful for finding the source of noises. I paid only a few dollars for one many years ago. Here is a link to a picture of one which is identical to the one I have: http://www.mikeogara.net/tools/engine-driv...tethoscope.html Let someone else drive whle you probe around the side windows and sunroof to find where the noise is loudest.

LSUMatt1514, Is your new wife's GS at a mileage where new spark plugs are specified in the maintenance manual? My LS of the same year (2000) requires new spark plugs only every 120,000 miles - double the mileage of my first (1990) LS. There is no benefit to changing spark plugs prematurely - that is, no benefit other than to the parts seller. Doing only oil changes on a normally driven 2000 Lexus is not necessarily bad although I can't seem to bring myself to follow the recommended transmission and rear differential fluid change intervals - i.e. never requires changing. I have sensed some frustration at repair shops that newer Lexus vehicles (and cars in general) require so little maintenance - it is affecting their profits.

You are certainly being more charitable to the dealer than many would be. A good dealer service department should be matching a tag on the customer key with the repair invoice to make sure the right car is delivered back to the customer. Is the dealer just lining up the serviced cars with the keys in the ignitions and letting customers choose which one to drive away? If so, try to take an 06 GS430 next time. ;) To answer your original question about whether this level of service is typical of a Lexus dealer ... I normally use an independent repair shop and have used the local Lexus dealer mainly for warranty service over the past 15 years - the next closest one is 150 miles away. The dealer has made lots of mistakes, caused mostly minor damage, lied through their teeth a few times,offered me the equivalent of a bribe (lots of free service which I did not accept) to not speak with Lexus corporate, and has been generally clueless on the features their cars have. I know there must be some really great Lexus dealers out there - but the local here is not one of them. But then, I'm a real "stickler" and expect service writers and mechanics to know a lot more about cars than an amateur like me. Here I go again - going on another rant about the damned dealer.

Are you saying that the dealer service department gave your personally owned vehicle as a "loaner" to another customer? If so, that is outrageous. No one other than a dealer's employees or subcontactors should be allowed to drive a customer's car. It would have been "interesting" from an insurance standpoint to have seen what would have happened if your car had been involved in an accident. Were there any extenuating circumstances? (i.e. Is your car identical to the other customer's car - was it a "somewhat honest" - but stupid - mistake?) I suppose what you do depends on whether you plan to use this dealer in the future. Demand a complete explanation in writing and signed by the general manager. Consider contacting Lexus corporate. Ask for some "freebies" - no, ask for a whole boatload of freebies - maybe the next 100,000 miles of service for free. Just when I think I've heard of everything...

The response from Mobil seems quite odd. I think the "coded" message is that "The wise decision would be not to use the motor oil in an automobile so we can sell more Mobil 1 motor oil." Is Mobil 1 being delivered in tropical climates in refrigerated trucks or in Northern winter climates in heated trucks? <_< Chicago isn't exactly Siberia ... OK, maybe it is! LOL

daphatchino, I doubt if you just "fell off the turnip truck" if you bought a fairly new GS but, if you have not experienced a Lexus dealer service department, I would like to caution you that, like at some dealerships for other makes, service writers may try to sell you unnecessary and expensive services. No, your wheels will not fall off if you don't change the transmission and differential fluid every 5,000 miles, no matter what they say. The normal service schedule is just fine for nearly all drivers except those who use their vehicles for heavy commercial use or drive like complete maniacs. Reading about the normal service schedule in your maintenance manual will help you counter overselling. "Knowledge is power." I have heard an incredible amount of bull$#!+ from Lexus dealer service writers over the past 15 years - worse than for any other make I have owned. I learned early on to just look at them, smile, and tell them to do exactly what I asked and no more. Good luck and please report back on this thread to tell us how it went at the dealership.

Is it a good idea to recommend that daphatchino experiment on a car he just bought, is not familiar with (yet) and which is under warranty? If he is taking it to the dealer to get a new (and no-cost) subwoofer installed, what would be the purpose of not having the dealer take care of all outstanding issues under warranty? Plus he gets to drive a nice new loaner Lexus - usually an ES330 or RX330 - and see how other Lexus cars drive.

Both problems should be covered under the basic 4 year / 50,000 mile warranty. The hesitation problem might be covered under the 6 year / 70,000 mile drive train warranty or the emissions warranty. Get your car to a Lexus dealer before the basic warranty expires! For that matter, go over your car with a "fine tooth comb" just before the basic warranty expires and have even the slightest defects taken care off. There is no reason to pay for any repairs yourself until you have to. Lexus frequently replaces parts with improved versions -- a new subwoofer from the dealer may be better than the original. Just before my basic warranty expired last summer, I had Lexus replace the A/C controls under warranty because of a tiny cosmetic defect inside the outside temperature display - would have cost $1,000+ if I had to pay for it myself. I could have lived with the defect but why? That's what a warranty is for.

As many times as I changed these bulbs on my 90 LS over 13 1/2 years, you would think I would have the procedure exactly memorized. I remember I had to remove the screws that hold the black plastic garnish to the trunk lid - the plastic panel above the license plate that extends all the way between the taillights - the license plate light lenses are part of this garnish. If I had not changed the bulbs in a few years, the black plastic garnish tended to get stuck and I had to gently pry it down with a well taped screwdriver blade. The plastic garnish is quite sturdy but still pry gently - it may be brittle after all these years. Then I replaced the bulbs. I think the bulbs are the same as in the corner lights by the headlights. Getting the screws back in were a little more difficult since the two bulb housings can move around a bit inside the trunk lid. I sometimes used a finishing nail to line up the holes. I suggest changing all the exterior bulbs every five years or so even if they do not burn out. I replaced all my bulbs at about the 10 year mark and was surprised to find that the glass on some of the original bulbs were very blackened reducing light output.

Here is a link to HomeLink programming instructions on the Wayne Dalton website --> http://www.wayne-dalton.com/Files/ProductM...nk/Homelink.pdf The part that many people have difficulty with (or omit) are the actions that must be performed at the garage door motor / light assembly ("Teaching Power Unit" in the Wayne Dalton instructions) after doing the "in car" portion of the programming. Give it another try. If you are not successful, I think you would have to provide us with a very detailed list of the steps you are following for us to be able to help you.

If anyone is currious what the headlight beam adjustment switch on Euro / UK 94 LS400's, here is the page from my owners manual. The switch to the right of it is for the rear fog light.

The owner's manual I have for 1994 European / U.K. LS400's recommends 33 psi front and 39 psi rear for a fully loaded vehicle driven at less than 100 mph (see attachment). One issue to consider if you will be doing much driving at night is that your headlight beams will likely be tilted upward by the increased weight giving you a poor view of the road ahead and blinding oncoming drivers. You might consider manually adjusting the headlight beams downward a bit before you start out on your trip. This was not a problem on European / U.K. LS400's since they had a manual headlight beam adjustment dial on the dash - similar to the one on the Toyota Sienna van with HID.

I found Gray-C (for Gray Cat) under a woodpile Memorial Day 2004 when she was about 10 weeks old while I was walking through the now run down neighborhood where I grew up. I didn't plan on having a cat but the tiny thing followed me four miles as I walked back to my parent's house. She greets me at the door every evening, follows me whereever I go around the house, plays "fetch" and is fascinated by flushing toilets. She used up one of her nine lives when she fell 14 feet off this railing a couple of days after I took this photo.

My 00 LS maintenance manual allows a 7,500 mile oil change maximum interval when the car is used for non-commercial use - I assume commercial use means as a taxi or delivery vehicle. An interval longer than the maximum allowed could be a warranty issue if something really bad ever happened to your engine - incredibly unlikely. After the drivetrain warranty expires (if you keep the car that long or drive a lot of miles annually), you can choose whatever interval you think is best. I guess it is just habit that I continue to change the oil every 5,000 miles even though I use Mobil 1 and have read many times that Mobil 1 usually provides excellent protection at far higher change intervals.

Are you asking about the "auto dim" feature of the three rear view mirrors? If so, I am assuming that this feature on my 00 LS400 is similar. After I had 35% film installed on the side and rear windows of my LS400, I noticed that the mirror auto dimming feature did not work quite as well. The mirrors do not dim until cars behind are closer than before the tint was installed. This has not been a problem since the darker rear window tint compensates for the inside mirror not autodimming as quickly. As for the outside mirrors, the much improved comfort provided by the tint during the day more than makes up for the slight decrease in autodimming efficiency at night. I may be a little mixed up on what the tint percentages mean - I thought that 15% tint is darker than 35% tint? States laws usually require lighter tint on the front side windows than the rear side windows. Here is a summary of tint limits by state: http://www.tintcenter.com/laws/

Well, the KBB retail value for the dealers ZIP code is $22,235 although I found the KYB values to be way high when I bought my 00 LS from a small dealer. It might be a good deal if it has a documented maintenance record, the low miles can be verified, and if the car is in good shape. Has the 60K service been performed? It is odd that the photos are dated March 05 - why hasn't this car been sold before now? I don't see HID headlights on the option list but I suspect it has them since the car was ordered with heated seats, chrome wheels, etc. It does not have the optional wood/leather steering wheel and gearshift - I think the all leather wheel is more comfortable that my wood/leather one. Verify the condition of the chrome wheels - expensive to replate. I think I can see a sunroof in the photo which is good although I've only seen a couple without one. Here is a summary of how the 98 LS was offered: http://www.lexusjax.com/shared/shared/cpo_...00/ls40098.html Best of luck!

If I were using regular oil instead of synthetic, a 5,000 mile service on our LS (including the $4 Lexus/Toyota filter) would cost less than $15. I can do all the chores you listed including inspecting the brake pads in a little over an hour in my garage. Of course I have a bit invested in high quality tools including floor jacks, jack stands, etc. But if you purchase high quality tools they last a lifetime. The best things about doing this stuff yourself, other than saving a ton of money, is that you learn a lot about your cars and keep repair shop damage to a minimum. A Sunday morning ritual of mine is to check/correct the levels of all the fluids and tire pressures in both of our cars - it rarely takes more than 10 minutes to do. If the tire pressures are low, the 12 volt air compressor runs and pumps up the tires while I do everthing else. I visit Jiffy Lube every few months because that is where I take my used oil to be recycled. Its free in my area and you can drop off 5 gallons per day.

I'm curious ... is the spark plug change interval in shown in your maintenance manual like it is in mine? According to the maintenance manual for our 2000 LS, the recommended spark plug change interval is 120,000 miles. Is the interval different for a 2000 ES? I've found that the various service intervals recommended by the local Lexus dealer's service writers are substantially shorter than listed in the maintenance manual. Of course their job is to sell service - the biggest profit center at a dealership.

Unfortunately, all HID headlights are not created equal. How well they work depends on lots of design variables. One suggestion is to check auto or consumer magazines that include ratings on headlights. Consumer Reports, for example, typically rates headlights when they road test cars. I distinctly remember when, a few years ago, a magazine road test found that the halogen headlights on an inexpensive Mazda Protege out performed HID systems on many other (expensive) cars. Personally I find the lighter color (ultra white) of HID more pleasant to drive behind than the more yellowish light of halogens. And I usually have fewer problems coping with glare from on-coming cars with HID except for some, like some Acuras and American cars, that do not have autoleveling lights.