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About Banshee365

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  1. What is your experience level with auto transmissions? Check out my thread on CL:
  2. Get the car mostly warmed up, shut it down, unplug the ECT sensor the see how it runs with it unplugged. Remember there are 2 ECT sensors. One for the ECM and one for the cluster. Make sure you're dealing with the one for the ECM.
  3. I don't know about the Gen1's but the Gen2's like to clog the strainer. The trans has a metal mesh strainer instead of a traditional paper filter. When the strainer is clogged you may as well empty the fluid out. It sounds like a low power steering system with the moaning that it does when this happens. You can remove the filter and clean it. I've battled this before where the trans was shedding material and clogging the strainer. I replaced the trans with a junkyard one but I think there was still some material in the radiator. The new trans' strainer clogged within 700 miles and it was dead
  4. What brand belt kit will your shop install? I recommend the Aisin kit from RockAuto for about $175. I just installed one on my '96 and the quality is outstanding. It includes the timing belt, idler, tencipher pulley, water pump, and hydraulic tensioner. Best deal out here right now. Aisin is what you'll get in the toyota boxes without the high price.
  5. Keep running it with the wrong ATF and 188k will be like 1 million miles to that transmission. You MUST run Type IV fluid, at least change that for now. My money is that it is ECM related sorry to say. Other than that maybe torque converter? Assuming the transmission operates normally at other speeds.
  6. That person saying that LS's are known for ECM problems is good for his business. I don't think your model year LS had many ECM problems. Most ECM problems are with the 95-97 cars. I have a 96 and have, myself, experienced a failed ECM and BOY is it hard to diagnose. Not saying that your ECM isn't bad but keep your eyes open. It would be great for you to find someone local with your same year car to swap ECM's with just to troubleshoot. If your problems are very constant and can be replicated easily, swapping your ECM temporarily with a known good one from another car could be a quick and prec
  7. Replacing the ECM is usually the last action in the diagnosis in anything the ECM controls when it comes to diagnosing through the factory books. Diagnosing the ECM is tough but is done by somewhat of a process of elimination. At first I had a slightly rough running car. I replaced the plugs, wires, caps and rotors with OEM parts. The car seemed to run slightly better but still somewhat rough and I just thought "Whatever..." Over a year later the car starts really running like crap and throwing a CEL for the engine coolant temp circuit malfunction. I replaced the engine coolant temp sensor for
  8. CuriousB is right on track from the first post on I think. The '96 has a fairly high failure rate for ECM's, especially at that mileage. I've had to put one in mine because the reference voltage in the ECT circuit in the ECM was way off causing the car to think it was never warming up. It would run great cold at startup then slowly get worse. The ECM kept the mixture very rich and my car was so bad that it would stall and not start unless it was cold. ECM's seem to be wear items on some of these LS's and routinely start showing symptoms at miles over 200k. It's whether you realize it or not
  9. I'll throw out there the fact that for certain years ECM failures are somewhat common. How many miles are on your car? ECM's seem to start failing on higher mileage cars. Mine starting acting up around 200k. 96's and 97's have ECM problems. I think '94's are also common but I'm not sure about '92's. What issues is the car having? I wouldn't throw out the possibility of a bad ECM ever. The very last corrective action to most every check engine light code is to replace the ECM.
  10. Check your manual but as long as there isn't much weight in the seat the car disables the airbag as do most higher end luxury cars. The specifics should be in the owners manual.
  11. Tim, I know exactly what your problem is. It isn't coolant that you are leaking. You have simply sprung a leak with your headlight fluid heat exchanger buried inside your flux capacitor located next to the #2 cylinder intake runner. Dump 2 can's of radiator stop leak in your gas tank and tighten your muffler bearing then you should be good to go.
  12. It doesn't really matter which cable you pull. I just alway's do the negative. The light on the AC panel is just what you thought, completely normal It's just finding it's place in this world again.
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