cardona6569

I got to drive a Q-45 2001, which by the way has nice features and looks great. I has ample power easy to drive. The thing I loved the most was a featured visor that covers the leather and speakers which are in the back. The visor effectively repels the sun and heat. The analog clock is great. My friend drove my LS and was very impressed with it also. He has a check engine light on, probably a 02 sensor. No major mechanical problems with the car since he has it about two years. He paid $19,000 for it. Hate the new bublehead look the car has. C. PR

My advise use original filter, but look in your owners manual and call the Lexus customer department and ask them your options not to void the warranty. They will help you, 1 800 255 3987, in case you do not have owners manual with you. I did call them and they are very helpful, they will not hang up on you until they answered the question to your satisfaction. Good Luck. In case they say Jiffy or Pep boys is ok use until the warranty runs out the Lex Original Filter, you can get them at www.irontoad.com. C. PR

I'd bet 99.999% on the starter if you particularly are not having any problems like dead or weak batteries. Here's the instructions from Lexus. It does look like a project. One question: Is this procedure the same as for the LS 400 98 engine? It does look very similar. Thanks for the info in advance?

I do own a 98, but as far I am concerned this is not normal. Your coolant is low, simply put. Just add some coolant to the reservoir. Is better to have that fluid above maximum, because if so it will just drain out; on the contrary to Trany fluid or steering fluid, those fluids are hydraulic fluids and if you overfill the system it will cause leaks due to the excessive pressure they make due to the overfilling. C. PR

Watch them for what, continued sales declines? Their sales are down across the board except for two of their models (the QX and M). The Q45 has never really sold in NA. In December, they sold a staggering 52 of them. With hot, new 3 series and IS sedans, the G35 is slowly falling between the cracks and will soon be a thing of the past which is why their sales were down by almost 10% in 2005. I think I've maybe seen 5 FXs in person; the FX sales numbers are dismal when compared to the RX. I don't doubt that Infiniti makes a great car, but they just don't seem to be any competition to other luxury brands. There are many Lincolns with analog clocks built after 1980... [/quote Just my two cents: Infinity literally killed the Q 45 after 2001, with that "1980 Pacer Bubblehead" look. Reference in case you have not seen the AMC Pacerm go to Wayne's World movie, there is one in there, for its ugliness. Why else? That is why the M45 is selling better because is the logical evolution of the Q45, which did not come as such with the ugly model change. Second the reliability of the Infinity cars even as better than MB not quite better than Lexus or even in some instances the American Luxury models. I besides my LS drive a Murano with I bought new. The radiator literally cracked, 35,000 miles (told the dealer to check the radiator cap, they said it was good, a week after changing the new radiator, the coolant started evaporating, the radiator cap caused the radiator problem but the dealer overlooked it, even as there is a TB for it to get checked/replaced), gas tank latch closing problems, 4 times to the dealer, and the problem never really went away. Electrical Generator Recall, mine is still working good, and the latest, the Mass Airflow sensor gone bad, a 348.00 proposition without the maintenance, the Suv does have 47,000 miles with good maintenance, oil changes. From the beginning they published an inflated MPG, which the truck never gives and was reported as such after I bought the vehicle. I also understand it was the first year of production for the model, but most of the platform is from an Altima, a well tested car. The truck runs good, but I just feel that it is too expensive for the problems it has being relatively new. I have a 1989 Grand Prix that gives less problems than the Murano. C. PR

Hi: This is my what my invoice from the dealer with full diagnostics says as follows: Code PO135, 02 sensor heater circuit malfunction Bank 1 Sensor 1. From reading his post he talks about: "The car runs flawlessly, with the fuel mileage around town being 21 MPG. I took the car to AutoZone to have them read the codes, and it came up a 0136; bank one, sensor two. I believe that means the O2 sensor after the catalytic converter, left side." Seeing the exposed evidence I believe without doubts that, yes he talks about a bad 02 censor and yes since is not the same one as mine it gives a little different code, 136 and mine a 135, but he has a bad 02 most likely. His car did not damage the same one as mine did. My car ran without any other issues just as his. Sincerely, C. PR Hi: I got a 98 and yes the O2 sensor went bad. The car will run with no problems but the check engine light that came on. If you try to reset it just comes back as yours did. Replaced the sensor had no more problems. If you can do it for 90.00 you have a good deal the dealer charged me about 300.00 for labor and diagnostics. They also told me that once you replace it usually it does not come back. The only risk you are running is the one of ruining your Catalitic Converter. They could overheat and get damaged causing other problems. When you replace the sensor the car will spend less gas, because of the incorrect reading the bad sensor is giving the computer. It coud increase gas mileage about 1 to 2% better, about a mile more per galon city and 2 more in the highway. C. PR there are around 200 different error codes and all of them would trigger the check engine light to come up. i dont see any connection between the starting of the topic and o2 sensor going back. unless you know the code that triggered the light you cant really say much.

Superb=marked to the highest degree by grandeur, excellence, brilliance, or competence. Your car is a true example of the above word and meaning! C. PR

Hi: I got a 98 and yes the O2 sensor went bad. The car will run with no problems but the check engine light that came on. If you try to reset it just comes back as yours did. Replaced the sensor had no more problems. If you can do it for 90.00 you have a good deal the dealer charged me about 300.00 for labor and diagnostics. They also told me that once you replace it usually it does not come back. The only risk you are running is the one of ruining your Catalitic Converter. They could overheat and get damaged causing other problems. When you replace the sensor the car will spend less gas, because of the incorrect reading the bad sensor is giving the computer. It coud increase gas mileage about 1 to 2% better, about a mile more per galon city and 2 more in the highway. C. PR

I just bought the Turtle Wax Polishing Compound and Scratch remover and which is very well priced and works very good. After you apply the mentioned product shine it with The Treatment, Scratch Away which is a lot more softer. I was able to remove many things I thought they were impossible. C. PR

I have this phone number and I think you out to give this guy a call about the relaibility problems that you are facing with the MB brand. "Thank you for your recent e-mail to our Customer Assistance Center. In order to discuss this matter further, please contact me at the telephone number below. I look forward to hearing from you at your earliest convenience. Sincerely, Joseph R. Leonardi Customer Relations Liaison Mercedes-Benz USA, LLC 1-800-367-6372 Ext. 6255" I told them about the problems I had heard in this site, Consumer's Reports, my friends and other MB owners and he sent me this communiqué. I hope this serves you and many others to vent your frustrations, concerns to MB, helping them better their nice looking cars. I love the E 320 96-2003. Their vehicles just need to become more reliable and a bit cheaper to maintain. C. PR

Buy some electrical contac cleaner, is always a good policy to clean electrical contacs as you disconnect and work with them. It is my opinion your PS pump does not need to be rebuild at present time. I do believe, as you describe it, the PS system is working fine. C. PR

I am happy your car is back to normal, and yes the Steering on mine is a little hard, but just a notch. I guess is just the way they are. Now you need to clean the Throtlle Body, it carbons up a lot and the Maf Sensor next to the air cleaner, there are tutorials on the site on how to do both. If you have more than 150,000 your water pump might be in order also, the timing belt is another hot item, which if you change, since the water pump is there makes good sense to change also. Since yours do not have in cabin air filter because until 94 it was not in, you need not to worry about it. C. PR

I feel your steering as normal. Check Fluid, DO NOT OVERFILL. Use Dex III, some members have noted that using Mobil 1 Dex III have brought them good results. Check threads, extensive info in them. Check for red leaks in the front and sides of the car and near the tires by the tie rods. If you have red fluid, which it should all be bone dry if no problems, you have a leak that could be causing your woes. The 70 Caddy I believe it has not rack, there is a difference, cars without racks are lighter to steer. I had a XR7 Cougar which was even more stiff, sure it was more sports like than the Lex. Remember they modeled the cars as a driving experience, to have such you need to feel the road, the steering, some owners of such fine autos, it they do not feel "La Strada",they feel cheated by all the money spent. They have gone to lenghts as to take the car back, due to inconformities of the road feel in the steering. My two cents. C. PR

Yeah just looked at this again, totally mint. From what I've read it will be v8 and the fuel compensation will be fair. That in black is like wow :o ps : hey nc211 :D Greetings: As soon as I see it at the dealer, I will know if I like it. Pictures versus real life are sometimes very deceiving when compared. The tail lights look as if it were from an ES 330. The Front looks like a Mazda 6. The windows look BMW. Then I ask what lexus put in, lets say exterior design? C. PR

You will need to take out the air filter and hose. In the bottom of the card will have to take off some of the plastics under the engine. Then will have to use mostly wrenches not sockets because they probably will not fit. Bring the system back to specs of fluid, I would prefer to do it if I were you while the vehicle is cold. Do not overfill. It is difficult checking all those connections but not imposible. Best Wishes

Hi: The Whine sound is air trapped in the system. Make sure to fill to the cold mark if cold, and to the hot if the car is hot. Do not overfill, since this fluid is hydraulic, in other words is made to make pressure thus, it will blow something in the form of a seal or hose. To get the air out while the car is running and it filled at proper fluid, open the PS cap while at idle. Let it run for a minute. Check fluid, add or take out as necessary. The Leak probably comes from either the main pressure line at the pump, might want to check if that is good and tight, then check the rack at the sides by the rubber dust caps. Once you check this items, and find the leak you could either buy the part (s) in case is more than just tightening what is needed. You coudl also use NO Leak Tranny fluid but only the NO leak brand, I used Trans X and it did not work out. Hi: The Whine sound is air trapped in the system. Make sure to fill to the cold mark if cold, and to the hot if the car is hot. Do not overfill, since this fluid is hydraulic, in other words is made to make pressure thus, it will blow something in the form of a seal or hose. To get the air out while the car is running and it filled at proper fluid, open the PS cap while at idle. Let it run for a minute. Check fluid, add or take out as necessary. The Leak probably comes from either the main pressure line at the pump, might want to check if that is good and tight, then check the rack at the sides by the rubber dust caps. Once you check this items, and find the leak you could either buy the part (s) in case is more than just tightening what is needed. You coudl also use NO Leak Tranny fluid but only the NO leak brand, I used Trans X and it did not work out.

Nice post, loved this line "I found another for myself, and 18 months later bought a second one for me as the wife wouldn't get out of the first." C. PR

Yes there has been a consistent pattern on this forum that the older owners with extensive American car vs Toyota ownership experience plus American car vs Toyota mechanical component tear down experience appreciate the superior mechanical component quality of a Toyota compared to any American car. We understand that in the rare cases a Toyota component has problems (e.g. the oil leaks of the 1st generation LS400 power steering system) it's not because Toyota built the component out of cheap materials or low standards of workmanship, it's almost always because of some minor issue that wasn't forseen during engineering development and testing and is easily mitigated. In the case of the early LS power steering system, for example, the engineers didn't realize the steering rack solenoid filter screen would become blocked after 5-10 years of service causing high fluid pressures and resultant fluid leaks. This was the first Toyota power steering system to ever use a solenoid. Savvy owners who simply keep their solenoid screens and power steering fluid clean can enjoy great durability from the system. The other owners wrongly conclude "my LS400 power steering fluid leaks are proof that Toyotas are overrated and not really mechanically more reliable and durable than American cars." Monarch: Nicely Put! Having been through this experience (P/S Pump), I think you are right on the mark. When I look at how much I have tied up in my '95 vs. how much "American car" that same money would have purchased, I can't help but giggle (a lot). In particular, the amount of comfort and luxury that my ten year old car offers when compared to a brand new "anything else" (at many muliples of price paid), I am astounded. I'm already thinking about picking up another one & "re-engining" it. Hello Sweden and fellow owners! The LS is a great car, any PS system will have a tendency to leak, the key is hydraulic fluid it makes pressure, so never overfill the system! You will lessen the chances of leaks a lot! Second, the car does grow on you, the first month I did not drive it much, I looked at it more, then little by little after the first long trip I learned to love it! Third, to save some gas on your LS put pure acetone, yes the nail polish remover, 2 ounces per every 10 gallons of gasoline, you will see the results. C. Cardona

This info I found concerning the trouble spots such as Idle Problems of the 95 lexus and others. http://auto.consumerguide.com/Auto/Used/re...iewreliability/ 1995-2000 Lexus LS 400: Reliability Trouble Spots Consumer Guide's® Auto Editors have scoured repair bulletins and questioned mechanics to search for commonly occurring problems for a particular vehicle. In some cases we also give possible manufacturer-suggested solutions. In many instances these trouble spots are Technical Service Bulletins posted by the manufacturer, however, we have our own expert looking at additional vehicle problems. Check-engine light: The check-engine light may come on because of a problem with the fuel vapor emissions system. (1995-00) Dashboard lights: Due to a problem in the printed circuit, outside temperature reading may report -22F. Removing the fuse for 30 seconds should reset the system. (1995-96) Engine misfire: Undercoating on the oxygen sensor may reduce its effectiveness and cause the check-engine light to glow. (1995-97) Engine misfire: Rough engine performance above 40 mph can be remedied by replacing the engine-control computer, cruise-control module, and spark plugs. (1995)

Leaking gaskets number one reason is over torque, so the first step is to have a torque wrench and the torque specification at hand and if there is pattern, follow it to the letter. The engines I rebuilt in the military had seldom leaks for the same reason I followed the torque specifications and recommendations from the manuals. C. PR

Having the TB clean won't cost you too much. Start troubleshooting there; the suggestion of scanning the car is not a bad one either, because you said the Check engine keeps coming on, so it means something in the system is out of specification. Keep us posted! C. PR

Yesterday Dec 9, 2005 I went for my first emissions test for my Lex. This are the results: Idle RPM Tests Hydrocarbons Limits 200 / Result 43 Carbon Monoxide Limits 1.5 / Result 0.01 High Idle RPM tests 2500 RPM Hydrocarbons Limit 150 / Result 17 Carbon Monoxide Limit 1.2 / Result 0 I must say that I am very happy my car is running pretty clean and not doing so much harm to the environment I will be happier the day all is zero. But until that day comes I will be content with the above results. C. PR

Hello: Since you have the car running good, If you have not, replace the air filter, or clean it if it is not ultra dirty, clean the Throtle Body of carbon build up, that should be really bad in the back part of it, tutorials in the site available. Also another good one to do is to clean the Maf Sensor. Research in the forums the information is there. You can also log in into the UK, they have good info there also. I suggest to both of you, the one without problems and the one with problems. It is good preventive maintenance. Walt if you found your plugs very dirty, imagine what you are going to find inside the TB. I have done to mine all I have said here and is running like new! C. PR

What type of ramps did you get. I have a set but when putting the LS on them it interferes with the lower bumper areas of the car. Any recommendations? C. Cardona

You should call Maval and have them send you the correct letter valve and give them the other valve, because the one you installed is an old one waiting to fail. Can you post a picture of the solenoid filter area. Does a 98 has it? C