cardona6569

Hi I just sent for the new ac cabir air filter, need to know if it is located the same as gen 1, and if anybody has the notes on how to replace it please let me know. I know there are tutotorials for gen 1 on the net. I imagine it cannot be that hard. C. PR I will save about 45$ if I do it, the dealer charges $75 for the part and labor. C. P R

Hello: I am very happy I was not eating or drinking when I read your post, had a big laugh out of it! Really to the point and funny at the same time! Liked a lot! C. PR

Hi: In this site: http://www.mybiopro.com/BioProTemplate.asp...ID=915&ID=atoro There is the new fuel saving device called the BIOPRO QX-3 fuel saving chip. The company claims it changes the rhythm of the fuel molecules in the gas tank making the combustion chamber burn more fuel with the same. It is thought that 40% of the fuel is not burned during emissions. All I want to know if anybody in the forum heard about this equipment before I spend 150.00 US on something that may not work. Tried searching the net for independent studies and found none. Any engineers outhere please give your opinion. C. PR

Hello: My opinion on that jerking at 45MPH is to first clean check the air filter, if not done regularly and change the fuel filter if you have more than a 100,000 miles on the stock one. That is usually the trade mark of a dirty fuel filter. C. PR

HI: When I had more illusions and aspirations of buying a New Vehicle I bought a Nissan Murano 2003, which I still owe. A year passes and one day a Saturday I go to relax and eat a Hamburger to my local Fuddrockers. Guess what my battery died. Luckily I was near a PepBoxys bought an Energizer battery has been good ever since. Moral of the story, do not trust the dealers batteries, they are seldom good ones. I have only one good battery from the dealer and it was a Ford Motorcraft, it lasted about 3 years that is the only exception. Even as your car can have a replacement in warranty, go to your local autoparts and buy an aftermarket one that supplies CCA at least the second one from the lowest rating they recommend. Do not buy the one that is in the lowest of the CCA category. Remember batteries tend to last about 3 years in most cases. Usually they give you a warning when you start the car and feels a lot weacker when it starts, if that happens run to the autoparts to get it tested. My Murano did it only twuice before it died. Well since this is a Lex site I will give the side of the story with my Lex. Not trusting used car dealers batteries, the first night after I got my Lex I went to Pepboys to test the battery and in my mind I was planning it probably needs replacement, so I am not up for surprices, they surprised me, saying that the systems was great, the battery was great and not charging me any money because they felt it was dishonest. I priced them, buying a fuel treatment and a K & N filter for my Lex. C. PR

Hello: Page 241 Lexus LS Owners Manual 1998 (If yours is before or after check the manual) Checking Power Steering fluid "Check the fluid level on the dipstick. If necessary, add automatic transmission fluid DEXRON ® II or III." Let us know the outcome of all this. C. PR

Hello: I was a Jet mechanic for about 10 years. I know that a pump is a pump, their design may be a little different depending on the aplication, but they both produce the same absolute PSI (in the pure sense of the word, like an oil refinery refines oil), even as the pressures vary due to design aplication. But with the info from your manuals the pressures are within range of both pumps. Yes checking it with a gauge is the best. But I believe the system installed is doing no damage, if it was intefering with the tranny he would have noticed problems, like not getting into gear due to lack of fluid pressure, which he has reported in the negative with the info we have. About Slick 50, I think is a good product have used for years, but only if the transmission does not slip. I only suggested it as a buffer to repel and improve the fluid. Towkool on the other hand lowers the temperature of the fluid up to 78 degres I believe, it is also a good alternative to keep the fluids from failing. Because the burnt fluid is due to mostly two factors, high temperature caused by the outside and the load to which the engine and transmission are subjected to, and clogging of the filter, the two common factors, no fluid lubrication =burned fluid. Another cause is the internal rubing of the parts to which the fluid should be a buffer against, the cooler sliker the fluid the best counter messure against this natural metal to metal rubbing, this is what the before mentioned fluids try to buffer. I believe the fellow owner with the new design improvement can possible rest a little more assured now. Changing the fluid of a problematic tranny car at 15k is a great policy. I had a warranty by Ford on the Cougar that said that for it to be valid I had to change filter and tranny fluid every 25,000 miles. That tells all of us that in some vehicles going 30,000 miles without changing at least the fluid before is not a good policy. Change the fluid alone and check condition in the middle of the cycle, considering that a Lex is an expensive investment expending the extra bucks is not a bad thing. Considering also that it has a drain plug unlike most american cars that in order to change the fluid partially, you have to take the pan off or become skilled at removing the radiator hose, which is a lot worst than taking a simple plug and improve the fluid. My experience with trannys is the following: I have had 8 cars, I have rebuilt two trannys, one because the car was pretty old and came with problems to me from the moment I bought it Oldsmobile cutlass, used five years with tranny from the engine I changed never rebuilit, the one that failed was the original which was discarded with the new engine my uncle used for five more never rebuilt it either, used slick 50 every year, the second because of bad practices of the dealer, because all it had was a bad torque converter but the dealer went ahead and rebuilt it, Honda Prelude 1993, 37,000 failure slick 50 here also, when it was I traded it had about 105,000. Then the other six cars I had and have, one a Diamante had over 220,000 in his tranny slick 50 trans x , never rebuilt it, Mercury Cougar 1987 10 years usage( Slick 50), broke after ten years had overdrive problem with 135,000 miles on it, and the car had been recked and stayed a logn time in the shop which caused the situation, Nissan Murano, CVT have it since new, Pontiac Grand Prix corrected leakage from previous owner 133,000 miles no problems here and running strong, Lexus with 74,500 miles only have it for couple of months do not have any problems. To the Lex I will change it at 30,000 miles intervals the filter & fluid, the fluid alone I probably change every 15,000 like I used to do the Diamante. I also had an 85 Cougar, great car never changed fluid on the tranny because I traded it in for the 87 Cougar in less than the 30,000 thousend miles and it was my first car and did not have the wealth of experience with trannys I have now. ON the 85 I was waiting the 30,000 miles cycle. These are only guidelines, but I think they are sound. The thing is that you change your fluid regularly. Draining it from the plug is not a complete change but an improvement of the fluid but since you are doing it every 15k it is order to keep a fresh flow of fluid in the tranny. C. PR

Hello: I have to disagree with your post, many cars just run 40 psi in the engine pumps, unless is a variable pump on sporty types. I do not think it is causing any harm to the tranny, in any case is just making it last longer. I would also recommend for the people whose tranny slips in the cold etc. to use a product called Trans X, even as I recommend Lucas, this is far better for slipping and hesitant transmissions. If it does not get fixed with that you need mechanical repairs. 15k fluid change is great, you can add Slick 50 tranny additive or tow kool tranny additive to combat the high temperature issues, besides the cooler you installed. If in this forum there are engineers please opine on this subject. C. PR

Hello: Congrats on your offer and new addition to your Lex experience. I would take it to the dealer, and have the check it out from top to bottom with prices for the repairs parts etc.; with that at hand you would have a great guide on where to go first and which are more pressing/safety related. I imagine that would not cost more than 500.00 Second you can take it to the toyota specialists or dealer where the service will be cheaper than the Lex. If you have in your area an auto restorer he can help you in many of those instances. I would go first with the brakes/suspension/ball joints tire rod ends and mounts, those can break with that mileage. Second change the fluids and apply Prolong to the engine, and lucas to the tranny and P/S system. Techtron to the fuel system and replace air, fuel, tranny filters and clean the magnets on the tranny. Change the differential oil also, it will prevent it eating the gaskets of the diferential. After that i think you can start having some more fun with the car. The air suspension will let go and then convert as cheaply as possible unless you can get some good salvage parts to fix it. Tell us how you come along and your victories frustrations with dealers etc. C. PR

Hi: Make sure your air filter is clean as well, because if you maf was dirty so was the filter. Replace that first oxygen sensor. After you clear it use emissions test passer to clean out the system as well give it a good run on the highway, 65MPH if no lights come on during a two hours period you must be cured. Bad O2 sensors are a common trend on the Lexus family, make sure you are using the recommended gas for that SUV 91 octane or higher, do not use bad brands of gas. Texaco one of the best, I do not recommend Shell's defenda, since is made to help the American cars, not the Japanesse made. C. PR

As I stated in my original note, I 've not yet R&R the ball joints. I've only removed & reused the TieRod Ends. Regardless, when I receive the new lower Ball Joints & TieRod Ends, I will have to use the 'pitch fork' type tool again to remove the lower Ball Joints & TRends. Unless there's a Tie-Rod-End Pulley-type tool available I will again have to use the pitch-fork type tool. And I really hate using this tool as once you use it, it destroys the rubber part of both the Ball Joint & TieRodEnd. Hope that answers your question. Thanks! ← you want to come do the ones on my ES250?? LOL. i need the R&P/BallJoints/TieRods myselt. greenleaf in Ft worth has the R&P for $89.99. ← Hey ArmyOfOne, if you were here in Houston (Katy), I'd be more than happy to do the job. I'm grateful that I've got the skillsets to do the job as I save alot of money by doing it myself. When I was quoted 1500. to replace the Rack&Pinion, I said No way!! Besides ,women love men that work cars, especially theirs!! B) Thanks to everyone who replied with comments & tips. This Lexus forum is VERY cool!! ← i might just be willing to drive to you to do it. LOL. i'll keep in touch. probably wont be for a few months. the car is not dagerous in its current state, as long as one doesnt act stupidly with it. it just requires that you turn the wheel a little farther before the car repsonds. i am used to it and i now can handle it without a problem. but the first time i took a cloverleaf exit ramp and i turned the wheel, the car kept going straight!! it scared the beejesus out of me. when/if i get a truck, i may rent a uhaul and tow it there, and let you work on it at your leisure. after i get my oil leaks fixed, because thats top priority. B) thanks for the offer. i will keep in touch and let you know. i agree this site is great! i myself was quoted <1300 to do it and i decided right then and there that i wasnt ever going to get it done as its my only car that i can drive daily without a hassle for a long period of time. i can use the concorde or the F-150, but it will create a problem after a few days. my ball joints are so far gone i will probably need new LCA's too. i have the knowledge and the ability, just not the time! ← HI: Recommend for you to use the Lucas Transmission additive, it might help your rack until you change it. It only costs like 7 to 9 bucks. I have herd of many racks becoming good after the aplication of the one for the PS, but since we use tranny fluid in our racks need to use the TRanny additive. C. PR

Hello: He fixed? right! I guess is not the smoke is the ability! C. PR

Hi: :P I figure it out why the vanes would not stay in place, they had two pieces that fell off and found them in the seats this morning. Took the vents out and after like 3 hours put them toghether and snap them back in the car. I now feel I can rest with the LEX and enjoy life a little more. Oxygen sensor problem, fixed, A/C noise Fixed, now the only things is the bumper that has some minor problems that will need paint, and presto. Also learned the Lexol is the best for the Leather I will go an buy some ASAP. Sincerely: C. PR Hope you do not have to take that vent apart, is a mess putting it back up. I feel it was designed by The N. Pole Santa helper, yes those small personages, of the movies...

Hi: My bad. This is the correct link. http://www.lexusownersclub.co.uk/knowledge...ex_v2&id=50&c=9

Hi here is the link to clean your sensor, with photos. http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...view=getnewpost C. PR

Hello: I have a 1998 LS, the car A/C works fine but the front center console air vents, the left one was making a noise like something was hitting. I take the vent apart found that the inter vanes were broken loose. I proceeded to cut the plastic back part off and the noise is gone, due to the removal of the bad parts. The problem is that during reassembly I cannot place correctly the outer ac vent vanes, the ones that move up and down and side to side to direct the air towards you or to any desired directions. The all look out of order I am trying to find where they gone pinned to the side. The only position they look ok is when I put them down almost completely. Any help with this topic, or I have to buy a new vent assy? Thanks for all the help and hope I was as clear as possible to where the problem is. In this link you can see the vents I am talking about and the vanes that do not fit properly. http://www.carstereohelp.com/stereoremovalLexusLS400str1.htm C. PR

Hello: First put some fuel cleaner in the tank, Techtron with the best octane gas you can get, 93 or a little higher if youcan find it, also take a look to your air filter maybe is dirty also, but at that low speed that should have no bearing unless it is so dirty that little air goes into to it. If you notice no change, then you need to take it to a mechanic, probably need to replace the TPS. If you notice change with the fuel cleaner, then I would replace the fuel filter. But it looks like the TPS is worn out. If none of these suggestions seem to work then need to take it to a good mechanic, one that likes to run race cars because they cannot run a race car with those troubles listed, thus they are very good a trobleshooting problems like yours. Hope this helps. C. PR

Hello: My past experienced with the mass/airflow was like yours, when turned off the car ran ok sometimes for a whole day then the problem comes back. Second, you may not need to replace the airflow/airfilter, you need to clean both of them, because if they are not clean the performance info to the computer gets wrong and freaky things happens. But believe the problem if left without looking into will come back. I am just suggesting you clean the mass/airflow, what wrong could you do with that, you already have change the air filter as part of the major tune up. When you put more load to the car, your air/flow quantity increases, if that sensor is dirty/faulty I think in your case is just dirty, you will have problems. But you could leave things as they are, soon enough your car will give the message in a loud no confussion way. Hey how did you come out with the P/S pump problem? Cost? C. PD. Have you check the tutorials? The person who does them has an email an replies to you if you have question.

Hello: If did the tune up, Clean the Mass/Airflow sensor, I think there lies your problem. C.

Hi: I also would advise to clean the Throttle Body and the Mass airflow sensor, I had a GM car do something like that and it was the sensor it will stall and when turned off will quit doing it, then we took it to the dealer because it was almost new and they replaced the said sensor, never had that problem again and it ran about 245,000 miles. I do not tell you to replace the air filter because I imagine you do it at the recommend mileage, you can also buy a K&N filter that lasts a lifetime, if properly cleaned every 50,000 miles. You can find both tutorials at the www.lexls.com page, they will not cost you more than five bucks, but be carefull cleaning the mass airflow sensor, the one that is after the air filter element that looks like a cigarrette box, the tutorial shows step by step I did it with no problems. But I still insist that you at this time should at least put some cleaning additive to the gasoline Lucas, Techtron are both great! even Snap is good also. Yes, it is not the spark plugs, but those you need to change as mandated and will never have problems with them. Let us know if the problem comes back and clean the sensor. C. PR

HI: That is a great looking car! I must addmit, it resembles the Q-45 until the last change when they just killed the infinity. \\\ C. PR

if you are not having any problems i would listen to blake and just leave it, but if you do it make sure you run your gas tank almost empty.be prepared to get some gas in your face it was pretty easy it just took me a long time getting the new filter o with gas dripping in my eyes ← Hello: I went ahead and called the Lexus Customer line and this is what they said: Ask me for the mileage of the car, told them 75,000 and then they said that there is not a mileage or a scheduled time to change the fuel filter, they only change it if the car has shown trouble. Not as part of any maintenance. I am thinking about changing mine at a 100,000 since I did not buy an original part that one will be replaced after 50,000 if I still have the car and then if keeping the car, will put an original because the part is so everlasting. I stand corrected and friends you were correct in all your answers, I feel a lot of confidence when I read your postings. C.

Hello: I think is in order for you to change your fuel filter, and put some Lucas Injector cleaner into your tank. It must have some sludge in there by this time. The fuel filter has lasted a very longtime so it is time for a new one, even as it is not doing it again but it will come back if you do not clean de system and change the filter, because then it could clog the pump. Use Texaco system 3 it will keep it cleaner also. C

Hi Clean the T/Body very good and might need to check the TPS it usually wears out and gives a lot of trouble due to the plastic/metal contact that get worn. The sensor is made out of plastic and the part it connects to in the engine is made out of meta, guess it soft vs hard, the hard always win. If they would made both of the same material they would last much more, but when any of them broke it would be more expensive the replace. www.lexls.com has a tutorial on how to calibrate said sensor, if followed correctly should be no problem. C

Hello Forum Mates: I hope that Lexus does not do the same Infinity did killing the Q-45 that looks like a AMC Pacer on Steroids. I loved the Q-45 desing until the last change they did making it look a lot more than a fishbowl than the elegant car it used to be. I hope the Lexus Execs dedicate sometime to read our opinions and as I can see most of the Members did not like the change. Its more it is probably a test to see how we opine about the matter. I will keep my LS 98 for a loooooong time if this happens. C. PR