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cardona6569

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Everything posted by cardona6569

  1. Hi: This problem like another member said with lysol in spray form you should get it resolved. Second after you do the clean up, if you can leave the car in the sun with the windows open also helps. I also recommend opening the hood and cleaning the wiper area, and putting water in the vents that they have, after a day or so when the car is dry put lysol in that same area the hood wiper vent area, also even as they recommended not to do it, you can in fact turn on the car and put the AC in recirculation mode and put some lysol with the AC Runing, spray it on the passenger side floor, (remember to vaccum the car really good before doing all this and cleaning any dust from the interior) and have the windows closed, after 5 minutes turn the car off. You could leave the windows closed for the night in the morning open them up, your problem should be gone by this time and the grand finish is to have the car in the sun, and even take it for a spin with your windows open and sunroof if so equiped. Run your heater at this time in the hottest setting you can take, put the fan at minimum speed, anything living with all that should be dead. I have done all of them and worked out. Do not leave the car where tree sap or leaves get to the hood area, wiper area, because the odor will come back again, or make sure that once a week at least you remove all the leaves. C. PR
  2. ← Hi: I would do both, clean the Throtle Body, extensive threads on it getting carbon up, even mine was, and the fuel filter change, which is not a bad idea either, even as they hardly go bad on the Lexus. But since you have some problems that might point to it, you may have to change it. Sincerely, C. PR
  3. Salutes: Just make sure you bring it up to the operating fill capacity, that is whats most important. Following the owners manual instructions. C. PR
  4. Hi: I guess some outer creature has got into us. I had a similar posting like that towards me. I guess we love the same car, but have different outakes on how we like things, it is just life. C. PR
  5. Hello: HOw expensive are those two mounts? I have read a lot about them, seems endemic after some years of driving pleasure! C. PR
  6. Hello: Thinking that a Japanesse fuel filter never clogs up is a fantasy. All filters have the ability to clog up. If you never change the filter, then when it goes so goes your pump, injectors etc. Not good business for you but for the mechanics it will be. Unless is internal that you cannot take it out, you should replace it at about 100,000, even as they say maintenance free, remember the batteries that were maintenance free? C. PR
  7. I agree! But lets buy a two-four of beer and then my mind will be slower than my fingers. If we buy too much beer though, that could increase demand, and therefore the price......:cries: ← Hello wake up! Even as the price might drop we need to work towards long term solutions. This is very simple, we have not built a refinery in 20 or 30 years, we need to build some more, even if the states have to do it with their own funds and use inmates to operate them as cheaper labor. We can have all the Petroleum of the world but if we do not have capacity for regining it, it will do not much good. Second, I am sitting here in PR we have Florida also and California, places were we can grown Sugar Cane, take the juice to make sugar and other products and use the remains to make alcohol, convert our cars to use alcohol or gas like in Brazil and be less dependant on oil, less demmand less price. Third we need to have the cars modified with generators starter motors, so when we stop on a red light the car stops burning useless fuel. The hydrogen cars also need to be put out of the labs and into the road. Imagine a car that you would fill up with water at night and in the morning be full of fuel. Imagine like John used to sing. A world with less pollution, cheaper enegry and cleaner all at the same time. The people who have us by the legs are the oil companies and the cartels made up by people of not the best reputations. Fourth, we waste a lot of cooking oil, we could have many cars converted to run on that, specially fleet vehicles, this process along with the bio diessel could be cooperatives from the state and municipal goverments, just for the operating costs, using a variety of sources of employee, from retired, students or even low custody inamates that are about to get out. Think how good it would be if your average high school person could get a job to make part of the expenses helping the gas crunch, making biodiesel as part of a program so he can put his own business later. In conclusion this is a problem with many legs we need to correct not just one or two but all, and then we will have more money to spend in our Lex cars. My sincere opinion. C. PR
  8. ← Hi: You are in the right track, it must be something electronic if you ruled out things like dirty fuel filter, because the problem at 45 MPH looks like bad filter. Second, I had a similar problem with a Brandnew GM car, it would run ok, suddenly started jerking and not moving, when I turned it off it would run like a dream. Conclusion bad mass airflow sensor, it did not do it all the time either, I had to let it cool down so the dealer would start it in the morning so the problem would happen. I would go for cleaning the Maf sensor, and see what happens, in addition to the CPU thing. I think the problem has two parts the ECU and the other less obvious at this time. C. PR
  9. HI: If fuel filter/airfilter is good, injectors clean, I would go with the mass/airflow sensor, have it cleaned first and then replaced, it might just be corroded in the electrical parts. C. PR
  10. Hi: I believe that the seat belts have factory warranty for 10 years, regardless of mileage, free of charge, but check with the dealer first. C. PR
  11. HI: Yes, it may be a lifetime fuel filter, which I do not know that it is in this model a fact, but it does not say it is Clog Proof. He is having problems and big ones in a new car. C. PR
  12. Hi: Make sure the belt is not making the noise, take a piece of water hose and place it where you think the noise is coming from with the engine running, but be careful, if you do not feel up to it do not attempt. Second need to bleed the air out of the system, turn the car on, loosen the PS reservoir cap, move the wheels from side to side, that should vent off the system, if that does not cure maybe your reman pump may need to be taken back to autozone, for a new one. It is not any marvel that a reman pump comes out defective. C. PR
  13. Hi: Make sure you do check your air filter also in addition to what they have told already, should not be spark plugs, changing your fuel filter may also be a good idea, and putting techtron cleaner and water remover also may be good ideas if all other things fail. Please tell us when you get it fix what the fix was. C. PR
  14. Hi: I have to put my two grains of salt in the thread. I love for the most part the K & N filters, because you can leave them in for double the time of a regular filter, they also cost double the price. They are designed for racing so they have to be better with the flow and keeping the pressure, that in my opinion is very useful in the early starts of your car/truck. Second the OEM filters are good quality filters if you can find them at a good price, they are made to operate at the factory parameters of the vehicle, the K is to perform even at a higher standard. If you are going to change oil at 3,000 miles, you could use even a cheap filter as long as it complies with the oem specs. If you care about your car, like most of us do as I read in another post, the Purulator filters are good filters, the OEM and the K's are great, also one that is not mentioned here is the Fram brand, one of the best filters around and even the AC Delco Gm filters if you find one that crosses to your Lex are great filters also, so are the Motorcraft Ford ones. Remember the Japanese learned most about this things from Ford and Gm, many of the features in my Lexus LS, I had in my Mercoury Cougar XR7 1987, which by the way is still running with some corrosion. So the Japanese have great desings that last longer than many of the domestic but they are not the pioneers in the oil filtering technologies, like Purulator is. All of the filters mentioned in my post are good, the Penzoil one never tried them so I will not opine about them. Lucas oil stabilizer is a great product add on to your oil, and so is Prolong. C. PR
  15. Hi: Make sure does terminals are tight, maybe you need to replace that negative also, since you say the Battery is new, becaus if it werent I would say was the battery, but since it should not be, then is the connection to the battery or when you replaced the terminal you left something loose in there, check that also. \\ C. PR
  16. Hello and Thanks to both of you. Yes Skperformance, I found the aforementioned info in my 1998 manual and I also used the link of the other post, both were used. My cabin filter was very dirty. I also found that on Ebay you can get the filter at a discount something like 16.00, minus S&H which are not included in the price. In Iron Toad I got it for 24.00 +S&H costed my about 30.00, a lot better than the 75.00 the dealer wanted; something that only takes 5 minutes tops. Thanks and again and both of you have been a Gentleman. C. PR
  17. Hi: I have to agree, in the mornings there is the tendency for the tranny not to shift properly, but I would use Trans X after have checked for proper fluid fill and changed filter. Trans X can be bought in Autozone, Pepboys, or Western Auto, and in many major autoparts. I have used the product and it works. But checking fluid fill as per the owners manual tells you how to do it it is the first step. Second make sure you change filter and clean the magnets in the pan if so equiped, if after this is correct then you could use the aditive, after your warranty is gone, not before, if not need to go to your friendly dealer and make sure they know what the problem is. Sincerely C. PR
  18. in my 2004 owner's manual supplement book it's stated that ATF has to be replaced at 60k!!! if vehicle is operated primarily while towing. That's why I asked that question about 15k. I don't mind to change ATF, but I'd like to comply with schedule maintance and do not void warranty - that's all. Is everyone changing ATF every 15k? ← Hi: Changing fluid every 15k is the best policy againts trans failure. Also changing the filter every 30 even as it is not listed plus cleaning the magnet on the pan es the best thing to assure an everlasting transmission. C. PR
  19. Hi: The reason why I recommend using K & N filters is because you can leave them for 10,000 miles, or up to 14,000 miles if you do your changes every 7,000 miles as per manafacture of the filter they can last up to 2 1/2 the average filter mileage. Using a good filter ensures you will not have clogged up lubrication lines in the engine. I would also do a once a year oil change with valvoline, since it cleans the engine really good, but I will not recommend it for usage everyday, but for 3 months out of 12, because is too detergent. Synthetic oil is great oil to use but if you had the car almost from new. if not it tends to eat up the gaskets and packings related to the oil system. I used synthetic it in the millitary and we had many leaks, the engines were clean and good and lasted a long time, aircraft jet engines that is, but had to replace many packing and gaskets because the oil eats them up with time and heat. I used it in a car that was new, never had a problem. But as an owner that is up to you, I am only recommending and giving my grain of salt. Besides the oil the filter is the second best part of the lubrication system in we as owners can have input, about its quality, or price. C. PR
  20. Hello: I use the K&N Air and Oil filter, they are both great products. The Prolong Oil treatment is also a good thing to protect the engine from the hars temperatures it faces. Castrol, Mobil 1 are great oils. Lucas Oil stabilizer are great also, I use all of them in my Lex. Changed it every 5,000 miles as the book says and Mobil 1 sells an oil for that type of oil change. A cousing of mine used Castrol and his car lasted him over 30 plus years until he sold it. Rebuilt the engine twice, after using Prolong never had to adjust valves again, before had to do it once a year. I am not receiving any money or anything from any of this products, want to put that clear. Had a Mitsubishi Diamante with over 220,000 miles on the engine with prolong on it using K &N Filters. C. PR ← ← Castrol is a top brand. I've been using it exclusively since the 1960's. I use the Castrol synthetic blend now in my IS. Castrol had the first 2 stroke oil that didn't gum up the motors and exhausts on motorcycles. The original had a castor bean base and gave a "different" odor at the race tracks, but it sure did work. ← Hi: I am in complete agreement, Castrol is one of the best lubricants around, regular or synthetic. C. PR
  21. Hi: I would recommend buying the K&N Stock filter for your Lex, that will increase the power and MPG better than the regular Lexus air filter. What 3 things did you buy, could not understand. C. PR
  22. Hi: What have you found out about Zymax? Post links if possible. C.PR
  23. Hi: First things first, fix the vacuum problems/loose lines, that should be cheap. Then if that does not fix it then do the sensors. If you go to the dealer, youll see their location and maybe you can change them yourself with little problems. C. PR
  24. Hello: I use the K&N Air and Oil filter, they are both great products. The Prolong Oil treatment is also a good thing to protect the engine from the hars temperatures it faces. Castrol, Mobil 1 are great oils. Lucas Oil stabilizer are great also, I use all of them in my Lex. Changed it every 5,000 miles as the book says and Mobil 1 sells an oil for that type of oil change. A cousing of mine used Castrol and his car lasted him over 30 plus years until he sold it. Rebuilt the engine twice, after using Prolong never had to adjust valves again, before had to do it once a year. I am not receiving any money or anything from any of this products, want to put that clear. Had a Mitsubishi Diamante with over 220,000 miles on the engine with prolong on it using K &N Filters. C. PR
  25. Any particular reason to prefer the 2004 over the 2003, aside from just being a year newer? ← Hi: The newer the model usually the more refined and less problems it could have, plus you have to spend less on warranty issues, since the car still has the factory warranty if it had not surpass the mileage, in which case is an overused car not to be bought from a dealer anyways. If you read closely you could even find in this forum a person who bought an LS with over 250,000 miles the person showed some pics of the car and it really looked very nice for a 1k and for all the time it has elepsed since it was on the factory floor. To me and this is just my opinion, a Lex should be bought as newer or new if possible. But since not everyone like me has the cash to do it, we have to take the second best, buying it used, until in my case have the money to buy a new one. I will not give up until I get it out of the dealer floor brand new. I bought this one to practice and learn the Product, in other words a rehearsal in the Lexus brand. And so far my 98 runs pretty nicely. Even the cassette works like a charm. Parting words, get the best service/warranty agreement. Second the opinion of the Member who told you to find the differnt dealers and the one that told you about going to several dealers and checking the book value as the other owner with the one with the cingular pic, are very good advice. Remember this is a capitalistic venture dealers are there to take as much money as they can from your pocket. Even as I experienced in my dealership that the sales manager treated me so well, even as I ended up not buying a car from them. In my case my Lex was originally priced at 20,000.00 they placed an ad in the net, no one paid much attention to the car. I happened to stumble across the ad and asked them, they painted it like the car was perfect. When I got to the dealer the car had the check engine on, I asked to take the car for an hour on the road to see how it moved, they agreed, they erased the code, the code came back, due to not being extra careful I did not notice a little ding in the bumper, but when it was time to buy I told them, at this time they lowered the price to 17,999.00, to which I told them dream on buddy, they kept at it and I replied, 15,000.00 they said they could not, I said I could not. Later they called me and agreed for 75.00 dollars more for the tittle which is understood and that is how I got my car which the dealer had almost forgot about it. Even the salemen told me that car had been there waiting and fogotten. That is why I second the opinion of a car that has been left at the dealer lot for more than 30 days. Make sure to do a carfact check, remember there will be many flooded cars from the hurracaine hit areas, and I do not care if it is an 2005 model, they will come with problems. I will only buy one of them if is a 2005 and they give me full warranty, which they will not do, and sell it to me for about 20,000. My grain of Salt Sincerely, C. PR
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