cardona6569

If your battery is more than 3 years old it may be weak and will need replacement at any moment. Have your battery checked. Most stores do it for free, but be ready for a new battery or even a generator. This is so because if your battery is weak as soon as the winter hits you will be stock somewhere with a dead battery C. PR

Hello: Here is the link to the tutorial is on the UK LEX forum, sorry about the other site: http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...view=getnewpost If yours is not exactly like the one ilustrated, use the same principles and clean everything contact and sensor itself with electronic contact cleaner. The electronic one will work just fine, can get it at autozone. Make sure everything is grease and dirt free; let the sensor dry and put it back on. C. PR The LEXLS.com site is great source for many things on your car model and year.

Did you clean the MAF sensor? If you have not do that! www.lexls.com on complete instructions. C> PR

The only reason I did not mention it was that I forgot. I have no reason to make any bad remarks of the 2000 LS, I have no recollection of any negatives on the said model-year. C.PR Cardona, I'm curious why you would not include the 2000 model? Usually, the last year of any body/style change would result in fewest problems. (Maybe I'm biased because I have one) B)

Hello: Try this people I have used them before with good results. http://www.partydown.com/ They have good support if you need to call them they give they answers needed. I bought from them an antena and a CD Unit for a Diamante I used to have no problems from the products. C> PR

I would love for you to post which are the differences, we already have the 1998 90,000 schedule posted, just post what is different. I believe the reason of the post is because he does not have the manual for some reason. I know mine did not have it so I had to order it, so I had to the same to obtain the spare keys. C.PR

I would get a 1998, 99, 2001, 2002, 2003 or 2005, 2004 had problems with the fuel pump. I wrote the other extra years because they seem very good also, the newest and with no accidents and the one that has the lowest miles that is the one I would buy. Try to buy one that has all the major maintenance if not all maintenance done at Lexus. The changes in the Generations are in the site given by another member. CPR

I would also clean the Throtle Body, lubricate the door hinges with white lithium grease, not with WD 40. Take the battery out and clean the battery plate and coat the bolt with anti-rust solution also clean the MAF Sensor to keep it in top shape. Water Pump unless leaking from the weep hole is not an issue yet. Replace the coolant cap, can save an overheat later on, and replace the gas cap gasket( if you did not replace at 60,000) and lubricate it with petroleum jelly to avoid it breaking up and dumping your fuel vapor to the outside thus making your gas mileage drop. You can replace the air filter for an K & N filter and get the engine to work with less restriction than the OEM filter feeling it more powerfull and probably better MPG. My 1998 LS Manual recommends this: Replace: Engine Oil and Filter, Timing Belt, Air Filter, Coolant, Brake Fluid, AC filter, Rotate Tires road Test the car. Inspect: Drive Belts, Fuel Lines and Connections, Fuel Tank Vapor Vent System Hoses, Fuel Tank Band, Rack and Pinion Assy for Leakage, Ball Joints and Dust Covers Drive Shaft Boots, Body Fuel Tank Gasket, Exahust Pipes and Mounting, Brakes, Linings, Discs Drums, Lines Hoses, Steering Linkages Replace Transmission and Differential Oil, Inspect body/Chasis nuts and bolts. This is from My Lexus Owners Manual. C.PR

Greetings: It would be very useful to read the threads of similar problems to this one in the forums. It probably also would help going to www.lexls.com there you will get most of the answers you will need. I would check/clean/replace Air Filter, Maf Sensor cleaning, fuel filter/replace, Throtle Body cleaning is in order also. All of these procedures are outlined in the above site with pictures and instructions. The first I would do is clean the Maf Sensor and see status of the air filter, if more that 30,000 miles on the current one, it needs to be replaced also, unless a reusable one that just need a cleaning. C. PR

Take it to the dealer and have them check it out. This before your wife disposes of you for having a Lexus and making her take a cab again to school. C>PR

I recenty bought Turtle Wax, ICE and it works wonders, it applies easy, can be used even on wheels and leaves a great shine in minutes compared when you use other products that can use more of your time. Second you can apply it in direct sunlinght, I did with no problems. Nio white residue and super easy to remove, well when you apply it you might think you do not need to remove it because it looks like you just put a wet blanket over the paint. I search for price because the thing is a little expensive and Autozone has it the cheapest. But that is just another product they are many others just as good. I just felt to share how easy was to use, just like they claimed in the commercials and testimonials. It is a product that does what it says it will do. C. PR

Greetings and thanks for answering: The Backlighting. The needles are fine. I also noticed last night that it did not happen, it only happens in the daytime. Unless they have an automatic day/night adjustment feature when measuring the outside light, that is the only reason I can think of for the normalcy of the event, if not something might be bad, like a sensor etc. Please Advice. Sincerely, C. PR

Hello: While driving I noticed that my light displays in the Instrument Cluster started flickering. It was in the day, I turned the lights to see if any changes, but to no avail. It does not go out completelly but they flicker. Have anybody with a 1998-01 had this issue. I am thinking it has to do with the brightness switch. I just hope it is not a problem like the first Gen has had with the I. Clusters. C. PR

Hello: I had a similar problem. First if your fluid is not clean flush the fluid, remembering it uses Tranny fluid not PS fluid, (Clean is red like wine color with no dirt) I advise to clean the solenoid filter in the Rack. Second take out the High Pressure hose it has a crush gasket and a fitting that mounts in the PS Pump, (fitting looks like a steam from a faucet). Take the fitting which will come off the hose, and it does not matter where the holes go when putting it back in, touch the oblique the (tip) area after the threads, if they are burred, need to take sand paper (fine grade) and some Tranny fluid and make it smooth again, like you do in the faucets in the house. After that put everthing back togheter clean everything and use the Barrs no leak for transmission fluid and that should be the end of it. It was for mine and it has more than a year. Remember it will be difficult to take the fitting out. If it leaked for a long time, some fluid could be trapped in the bilges, need to give it some time but should not have much fluid coming out. The PS Pump does not have o ring that go with this part they are further down inside the pump and will not be affected by this. This saved me 600 pluis labor. You could also use the leak treament first and see what happens, but I doubt it will help much without the repair. Good Luck!

Hi: Before anything make sure you checked your brake fluid level and the wear on the pads. C> PR

I had the same problem. Just buy clear silicone that is waterproof. Take the lens out clean it with Simple Green or any other solvent that is not harsh to the plastic and leaves no residue. Seal the places the clear lens and the grey/black plastic meets around the assy, let it dry before placing back in the car. Also you can put some black silicone in the place where the black rubber was but you need to do it very carefully not to make it look ugly. But that is not necessary just an option. Mines do not get humidity anymore. The best fix is to buy the assembly costs about 75 to 100 in the places where they sell them, do not buy used because the same will happen over less time because it seems to happe to all of them. C. PR

Hello: To me the aforementioned maintenance are too expensive considering what they are going to do. The 90k is basically a change of oil, filter, air filter tranny fluid and the timing chaing which is not covered in the 90K, even if it is there I still feel is just to expensive. You can have all to this done in a toyota dealer for less than they are charging you. Or you could have all minus the timing chain done at independants making sure they are ASE certified mechanics and save a bundle. To me is overpirced. Shop around. The timing chain should take one day, no more than that. Check with the toyota dealers nearby it probably coudl save you a lot of money also. Here in PR a 90K costs 500.00- and the most important thing that needs to be done is not covered which is chaging the timing chain at 90K for that they charge 295.00. C.PR

Look at the vents reall closely when it happens, it usually will when they are in high speed. You probably will see some plastic parts of the same vanes of the vent that are causing the problem, solution, buying a new center vent, or taking it off and cutting off the ones that are damaged, but make sure you see this, it happened to my 1998, but have to look closely since everything is black in there which it makes for difficult viewing. You could also go to a qualified AC place and have them check them for a lot less than Lexus. C. PR

Hello: I do not feel you have an emergency because you put a Bosh Filter as far as I am concern you can leave it until the next oil change. You should do that between 3,000 and 5000 miles depending on how hard you run the car. You can also leave it for a 1000 miles and give it an oil change to take away all the bad stuff from the car not being used the way it should had. Then buy an OEM, or better the TRD if you want to be more strict with the filters. I have used K & N, OEM and will soon be using Purulator, all are good brands. Look in the net a study made by the oilguy and do your analysis. The most important thing is that you do not run the car with less oil than the required and that you do not miss the oil & filter change schedule. C> P R

Hello: Use the K&N in total confidence, I had it in my LS for over a year now, no problems, The filters come ready for use with no oiling necessary for a long time. The cars, because I have it in my other SUV, feels stronger and quicker and never feels like its having to make an effort to get air. The Kit costs about 10.00 and will last you for years. Shop around in the net because the difference can be 10 to 20 more depending where you do buy it. Pepboys carry them so does Autozone, Western Auto. C>PR

Hi: I would replace the radiator cap, that is one of the most overlooked parts when dealing with overheating engines. Unless you can check the proper operation of the part, which almost no one has the will or equipment, so just buy a new one. Second to know if your auxiliary fan is working just turn on the car and crank on the AC both fans should work if they are not, then you need to check them, sometimes is that the AC needs gas. The idle problem can probably improve with a seafoam treatment. Read in the forum to see how to do it or go to the knowledge articles or links. And welcome to the club. C. PR

It is a solvent that you can add to your oil, fuel system and/or the air/fuel chambers of your car to enhance the performance of the engine, idle, or to clean your injectors when added to gas, or to clean the fuel system of the car. C. PR

The comments below should be forwarded to the MB R&D area in Bavaria. C

Well and replacing just the solenoids would not work out for you? If you save at least at 400.00. C. PR

What is the price of the valve body? C. PR