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jzz30

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Everything posted by jzz30

  1. it could be the IAC (idle air control), temp sensor, mass air flow, dirty injectors etc...
  2. sometimes if a tail light is out it will do funny things like that. but im not sure
  3. honestly i cant answer that question but if max is 2.5kg then fill it up to a little less than that and measure if there is a difference. but do the measurement back to back. if it doesnt make a difference then take it back down because i think it should be in the middle of the acceptable range because pressure does fluctuate with temperature. PV=NRT or sumthing like that right?
  4. most of it is just time consuming because the in-mani has to be removed but the hardest part is getting the 2 nuts or bolts(i forgot which) off the starter and the block. the only real things you need are throttle body gaket and intake manifold gasket. as far as i remeber thats what i changed.
  5. oh yea if it cycles on quickly then the pressure must be on the edge of being too low. but yea post your results!!
  6. typically a 134 system low side pressure is about 35psi. 45 is a bit high. and reguardless of your fan speed your clutch will turn on and off.
  7. i just did a whole t-belt and water pump job with the radiator still on. its possible you still need to drain coolant so you can remove atleast the upper radiator hose.
  8. if you dotn want to pick that up then i think you can use the permatex grey stuff. also make sure you take off all the old silicone with a wire brush on a drill or bench grinder.
  9. you should treat rust as soon as you can!!! a smaller hole is easier to patch then a big one!
  10. ouch! we had an sr20 injector leak and lock the engine and shortly after there was rod knock!!!
  11. it also could be stuck injectors.... or maybe a coil.. howmany coils do the 300's have?
  12. its a matter of taking off a few pannels and undoing some bolts! well at least thats the case with a supra...
  13. one of your coils is out. check them.
  14. cool! glad i helped. as for the trans fluid change if it worries you, you should do it after you get back. the risk of the fluid change is not putting enough back in or too much was replaced. the only real harm that can be done is putting too little back in. i dont know about your shifitng hard problems but you might want to look in to it.
  15. top speed is drag limited to 150 or 149 to be exact but if your on a down hill or in a vacum for that matter it will go faster haha!
  16. the sc timing belt and waterpump job requires that you take off everything on the front of the motor. by the time you get the waterpump off which is the last thing that can come off on the engine you have taken off your ac compressor, all of your components that are driven by your serpentine belt, and timing belt, and its tentioners
  17. well i you can only tell by obvious reasons like if the lower bit of the radiator is corroded away becasue of leaves and things that have collected and brocken down in to dirt allowing the radiator to be in contact with moisture. so if you want to know you have to look at it pull it out if you need to. and the needle staying half way is normal. also if you dont mind me asking how much did it cost for your t-belt and waterpump replacement
  18. well if your rotor has come to a minimum thickness then you need to change them if they are still thicker than the minimum then you can have them cut and reuse them. is the $190 for front and rear brake pads, and front and rear shims? if so then thats an ok price.
  19. i agree. you should try have an alarm shop look at it if it bothers you.
  20. smaller bits are relatively cheap. about 4-10 bucks depending on size. anything above 10mm gets really expensive, like 20 bucks a pop and if you really get big bits like a 20mm or sumthing its like 100 bucks!!!
  21. could just be the switch. does the other side work? or did this happpen after the alarm was installed?
  22. most places will test to see if your alternator is acutally bad before rebuilding!
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