lsrxlex

I just read somewhere that the braking distance of the new LS460 is not good. It was rated among the worse? Is it true?

This might help fixing the Idle Speed Control Valve: www.planetsoarer.com/IAC/iac.htm

Hi all, I'd like to know when did the LS start to have the projector-beam HID? It seems to me that the projector-beam HID are brighter than the reflector ones (?). Thanks.

Then, what year did the LS start to have the Bi-Xenon lights? What's the difference between Xenon and: BiXenon? Or Bilevel Xenon? Thanks.

What's the difference between Xenon and HID? And what year did the LS have the HID option. Thanks.

I'm just curious, since when does the LS430 start to have Xenon headlight? Thanks.

nc211, please give info of the seller to order. i couldn't find it on ebay by searching "flexible coupling ls400". thanks.

Could you specify the name of the product (shown on the package) that you bought. I went to local PepBoys and bought a "crankcase filter". It has 2"x2" square, but the thickness is about 1/2 to 3/4 inch. I don't think I bought the right stuff since I couldn't find one with a 1/4" thick. Thanks.

Would you please post the Front Suspension too. Thank you very much.

I always go to Costco for tires. They carry Michelin and BFG tires (at my local stores) and they offer free balance and rotation (recommended every 5-6 k miles) for the life of the tires. I'm happy with the deal and using Michelin all the time (so far).

Hi all, I need your expertise with chosing/inspecting/purchasing a 2002-2004 LS430. I'd try to find one in 2 local markets in California: San Francisco bay area and Orange county. I'd like to avoid the first year model 2001 of the LS430. And I like the Blue Tooth technology (just for safety reason), so I'll try to come up with enough money to afford a 2004 model which might have the BT. (I think I'm addicted to the LS after owning one in 16 years and specially after an accident!) Any inputs would be greatly appreciated.

Hi all, Yesterday, my 1990 LS400 (with 229k miles) was rear ended at a stop sign and then therefore we hit the car in the front of us. The very strong impact made the rear left quarter panel deformed real bad. Also, the black plastic and metal parts inside rear bumper fell out to the ground; and the front bumper was broken and exposed its inside foam core. Fortunately, nobody got hurt. I think the insurance might total the car. It's still driveable, and I still have it at home, waiting for instructions from the insurance to bring it to a designated auto body shop. Is there anything I can do to get the maximun money from the insurance? I have spent a lot of money in keeping my car in fairly good shape like: new tires ( 3 months old ), new timing belt/water pump/pulleys/oil seals (in 7/05), valve clearance adjustment (11/05), new rotors (4), front calipers (reman) and new master cylinder, etc.... And this would be a loss for me. Thanks for your inputs.

I've learned my lesson: No more eBay brake and front suspension parts.

Today lenore told us that the fluid capacity of the RX AWD transmission is 9.8 quarts and wwest told us that if both the transmission oil pan and differential drain plugs are removed, 5.0 quarts of fluid are needed to refill the tranny & differential. Therefore one drain and refill replaces about half the fluid. I have a 1999 RX300 AWD, and I'm confused here. If I refill T-IV ATF at the tranny and differential this way (and using about 5.0 quarts) then, in the front of the car (not in the rear though), there is still another area called "transfer case" (or "front differential") that needs to have a fluid change too, using gear oil GL5 (the same gear oil for the rear differential)? Please clarify this for me. Thanks

It seems to me that sometimes I have to get real close to the transponder (which is in the trunk, next to the radio antenna) to make the keyless entry to work (not close to the doors though).

I checked with 4 different Toyota people on this, 2 service advisors and 2 techs. Everyone pretty much had the same answer. The wp is designed to last the life of the engine and rarely does it fail on this engine. When they do timing belt they check pump bearing and inspect for leaks. If necessary they change the wp but almost never. If I insisted, though, they would very graciously take my money and do it for me. Plus I was already having trouble justifying $339 to change a belt that no one has ever known to fail even when run well over 100K. I really didn't want to add to the cost by changing good parts just on the rare chance that they may fail someday. It also seems most agree that it is a non-intergference engine, except for the Gates Brochure, which may just be a typo. The car is over 5 years old with 90K on it and the owners manual recommended it, so I went for it. Mikey, Thanks so much for your input. By the way, have you had Valve Clearance Adjustment done on your RX? If not (just like on my RX), then when would you consider to have it done? Thanks again, Mikey.

May I know why you didn't have the water pump replaced at the same time? I have a 1999 RX300 with 96k. Thanks.

I hope someday Lexus would come up with a Volume control knob (for Turn signal) located next to the Light intensity knob, on the dashboard. At 62, I'm having some degree of hearing problem.

My 1990 ls400 had an oil leak at the crankshaft area earlier, so I brought it to Piercey Toyota to replace all 3 oil seals, TB and water pump for $900. (Somehow Capitol Toyota's quote was higher at the time). But after 1 week, I still had oil leakage. So I brought my car back (under 1 year warranty), and they fixed the problem at no charge, but I also agreed to have valve clearance adjustment done at the same time (as recommended by them, for $350). After that, the car seems OK as of now, except there are 4 bolts at the engine undercover that they forgot to tighten. I was lucky that those 4 bolts didn't fall off after 1 week. I also noticed that they switched/changed most of the bolts and nuts when reinstalling the parts. I remember the Service rep told me they got the "check engine" light come on after the car was almost ready to go. So they had to order the "adapter for the OBD tester" that works for my car, to find the problem. I'd say their job quality is average or a little above average. My local mechanic's is below average or average, and although his charges are lower but the warranty is not good at all. I'd try Capitol Toyota next time, unless someone recommends against that. And I'll let you all know about their service afterward.

Try Piercey Toyota in San Jose.

For what it's worth, when my dealer gave me the service history on the car I'd bought, they said they couldn't print it out, so they read it to me and I had to take notes. Odd, but at least I got it. I got my service history thru email.

Hi all, My 1999 RX300 in now at 96k, and I'll have a Toyota dealer change the timing belt, drive belt, power steering belt and water pump at 100k. I just wonder if I need to have them adjust the valve clearance at the same time or not. I think I don't hear any ticking sound when engine is running. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

nc, i've learned the hard way. now on all of my family's cars, i just replace the batteries every 2 years regardles of their conditions. the cost is less than $40 at walmart with acceptable quality and warranty coverage. no more battery testing, charging, adding water, mailing rebates......

i also have a 1990 ls with 222.7k as of now. after recently buying a daizen front suspension bushing kit (for ~$100 from sewell lexus) and replacing only the upper bushings, i got bad squeaking noise. (the daizen bushings for the lower control arms are still unused). now, i just wonder if the upper ball joints need to be replaced after 15 years of use. if so, then i have to buy the whole upper control arms since we cannot buy the upper ball joints separately. so if i were to do it again, i'd bite the bullet and replace with all oem control arms, upper and lower. goodbye daizen bushings.

hyperopt, my mechanic allowed me to lube the bushings before installation. maybe the lube dried out so fast. then that's not a good lube though. i'll buy the oem lca as you recommended. gumart1, i'll use sil-glyde tube on the daizen bushings at the upper control arms. do you think it'll go inside the bushings to silence them like the silicone spray does? thanks everyone.