lsrxlex

My ECU needs to be replaced because the AC Compressor doesn't work, everything else works fine. Lexus said I need another ECU. I plan to buy a used one from eBay with the same part #. My question is how to reflash it to make it work with my current keys. Do I have to drive to a local locksmith then replace with the newly bought ECU. Then have the locksmith do the re-flashing?

I have a 1999 rx300 and the AC sometimes doesn't work. It blows even hot air on a hot day. I had to use manual fan only, no recirculation, to get the outside fresh air. But when it works, it blows cold air, very cold if I wanted, I was very happy with it. I just got the dealer change the servo motors because they made grinding noise inside the radio area. And after getting the car back, I have this ac problem. I hate to spend another $1000 at the dealer. I just replaced cabin air filter, it was clogged and very dirty with many leaves. But after replacement, I still have the same problem. What could be the cause? Thanks.

My 1999 rx300 just got 2 servo motors replaced by Lexus because of intermittent noise behind the radio. Since then the AC doesn't work right intermittently. One time I started the car with outdoor temperature 86, the AC gave hot air, really hot. I turned it off and restarted after 15 minutes but still hot air. Half hour later when outdoor temperature was 77, then it worked Ok for 20 minutes then gave very hot air again. If I used fan only, manually, no recirculation, then it worked fine giving me outside fresh air. Today I connected 12v directly to fans and they worked fine. What would be the cause. Thanks.

I agree. How can I do that? How long will it take? Thanks.

At about 400k miles, I had timing belt changed. At that time the gauge was already dead but I went ahead to change thermostat, water pump, engine coolant temperature sensor and the sending unit. And all that didn't help at all. My heater works just fine. The engine runs good. Everything looks fine. Gas mileage good too. Engine temperature behave very good. I don't lose coolant at all. I got a feeling that maybe the instrument cluster corresponding capacitors gradually went bad because the needle going down very slowly over a period of 2 years or so. If so, then what capacitors are bad that need to be replaced?

My coolant temperature gauge doesn't work. The needle went down very slowly over the course of couple of years. Now it stays at the lowest level and won't move. What should I do? Replacing with a new gauge or replacing some capacitors or something else? (It's a 1990 L'S 400 with 432000 miles). Please help. Thanks

My coolant temperature gauge doesn't work. The needle went down very slowly over the course of couple of years. Now it stays at the lowest level and won't move. What should I do? Replacing with a new gauge or replacing some capacitors or something else? (It's a 1990 L'S 400 with 40 miles). Please help. Thanks

It's 1990 LS400.

Hi all, I hope my experience would help someone with the same problem. I have been trying to fix the vibration on acceleration for sometime and then I gave up. I went to StevensCreek Lexus, San jose (CA) because I thought if I were to buy the 2 flexible couplings which are the rubber parts most likely to fail after 420.000 miles, then I have to have Lexus to balance the propeller shafts after replacement. Labor cost might be high. But finally the problem was only the center support bearing of the 2 propeller shafts ( part # 37230 30160 ). I was so happy that the vibration gone.

Hi all, I'd like to know the different between timing chain vs timing belt on the LS. What year the LS started to have the timing chain? I'm interested in buying a used LS with timing chain. I travel a lot for my job and replacing timing belt every 90k miles sometimes it's hard for me. (My current car is 1990 LS400 with 405k miles) Thanks

After 2 years I still have excellent coolant condition, no trace of oil. I think someone put dirty oil in the recovery tank when I brought the car in for oil change. When I got the car back, the guy told me I got a blown head gasket by showing me the blackened recovery tank , and said he can fix it! Now I will not go to Abbott Auto (Milpitas, CA) again.

I bought a front left hub ($75) before your reply, sorry. And during the Memorial holiday, I started to work on the problem. Luckily I found out that I didn't break any bolt head. I actually did crack the 4-inch2 extender of the ratchet thinking that's the bolt. Then I had to stop short because I needed the car for work the next day, with the plan for the wreckers trip later and buying replacement bolt too. Now everything is OK. I will save the left hub for future ball bearing replacement if needed. Thanks so much for your advice.

This is the second time I have to replace the lower ball joints.

Thanks for your prompt reply. I'm trying to find the hub to replace (the fastest way like you suggested ) but I need some time off from work to go to some wreckers. I'll keep you posted. Thanks

Hi all, I broke one of the 2 bolts when trying to separate LH lower ball joint from steering knuckle . What should I do now? Do I have to buy a used steering knuckle from junk yard? It's a 1990 LS400 with 403k miles. Please help. Thanks.

I removed all plugs and inserted 6 plastic hoses in plug holes. Then I connected 6 hoses to a shop vac, and cranked the engine for a total of more than 1 minute. But there was no trace of coolant in cylinders. Then i vacuumed the vacuum hose that runs from VSV for EVAP to Charcoal canister, but still no trace of coolant. So, I connected just 1 ignition coil to 1 coil connector and 1 spark plug, and had a helper cranked the engine (after pulling out the EFI fuse ). But there was no sparks at the grounded plug. Then I used volt meter and got 13v at one of the holes on the coil connector. So why there's no sparks? Even when using brand new plug? So the problem is now electrical? Then I checked the Bank2 camshaft position sensor, it's fine (between 835- 1400 ohms when cold). At this point, I had to stop because it's too dark. When I have a next day off, do have have to check the Bank1 camshaft pos. sensor, and Crankshaft pos. sensor too? (I think Fuel pressure was OK since I could smell fuel in the air earlier. That's why I had to pull the EFI fuse when testing the plug after that),

I removed all spark plugs and cranked the engine, but not much of coolant came out in cylinders. And the engine cranked without effort. I think that by removing spark plugs, the pistons lost vacuum power to suck all coolant out. Is there a way to quickly plug the spark plug holes for vacuum power, since 3 rear plugs are difficult to access and take time to remove or install. Then crank the engine again, then repeat? Using disconnected coil packs would help? Even if I take out the plenum (again), can I just use plastic hoses to suck out coolant, without removing intake manifold, or worse, cylinder heads ? (I gorgot to mention that, the last time the engine could ever run ( for about 1-2 minutes then stopped ) I got obd codes for: cylinder #3 and #5 misfired, and Fuel system too lean. Then after that, I rehooked hoses correctly, and engine never started.) Maybe I should try to connect a shop vacuum cleaner to all 6 spark plug holes and crank the engine. Would that help?

I just changed oil. Could not see any sign of coolant in oil. Will keep you posted. Thanks

I think I should vacuum out all coolant in the vacuum system first before cranking engine to chase coolant out (after removing all spark plugs). But what vacuum hose should I start? Do I have to take out Air Intake Chamber Assembly or Intake manifold just to vacuum out coolant? Do spark plugs need to be replaced, after just 10,000 miles, top?

So far, I vacuumed out coolant from: purge hose (it runs from engine bay to charcoal canister) and the pipe connected to it, 2 small vacuum hoses on top of engine, bundled together), hoses on both sides of VSV for EVAP , cylinder chambers ( after removing 6 spark plugs, using ~1/3" plastic tube connected to a shop vacuum cleaner). I got about a cup of coolant. Where is the rest of coolant went (about half gallon)? But after cranking engine for about 1 minute without spark plugs, I put everything back trying to start engine, but no result. Then I took out front spark plugs and found coolant again. I tried to remove coolant in vacuum line and engine, but apparently I didn't do it right. Please help. Thanks.

I have a 1999 rx300 and I have a problem: When putting everything back together (after replacing valve cover gaskets), I mixed up the purge hose with the water by-pass hose. Now I have coolant in all cylinders (engine won't start). So I had to remove all spark plugs and used small plastic hose, connected to a vacuum cleaner, to suck coolant out. My question is: What else should I do next, before reinstalling spark plugs and everything else..... and try to start engine again? All inputs are appreciated. Don

Hi all, I made a big mistake: after replacing valve cover gaskets, while reinstalling, I mixed the Purge hose with one of the Water bypass hoses (the one that goes from the throttle body to the upper pipe on engine). My son test drove, it's OK for about 5 miles, then the engin stopped. I came and put about half gallon of coolant in the radiator (since there was no more coolant in the recovery tank and radiator top, although engine temperature was one graduation below the normal). And when he started the engine (he could this time), all the coolant was gone in less than 2 minutes, but no coolant dripping down on the ground. Since we ran out of coolant, we had to stop the engine so we could go buy more coolant. The car was towed back home. The following day, we started the engine, and we got a check engine light after 2 minutes. It's " Lean mixture, and cylinders 3 and 5 misfired". We replaced the Ignition coil #5 to see if the Code changed . We tried to start the engine, but from now on, engine cranking but no starting. Then I found the mistake and reinstalled the hoses back correctly. Then I removed 3 front spark plugs, cleaned water with a rag, and used vacuum cleaner with a small plastic tube to suck some water out from top of 3 cylinders (lots of water out of cylinder #2). But we couldn't start the engine (Battery gave good cranking though). At that point we're tired and stopped working for now. Do we have to replace all spark plugs, with only 2000 miles on ? What should we do next. Do we need to remove the 3 cylinders in the back to suck water out as well? What hoses do we have to use vacuum cleaner to suck more water out? Please help.

I plan to rebuild rear brake Calipers. I was told that I need a source of compressed air. Is that true? (It's a 1990 LS 400). Thanks for any inputs.

I just replaced the PS pressure tube. I forgot to take a lot of pictures before removal so I did have a hard time to find the relative position of the tube with other hoses (like the return hose, ...) in the area near the oil filter. Also, I just removed only one LH tire, so I had limited view at the steering rack connection, that made it difficult to find to right angle of the tube for insertion. Next time I'll try to use 2 jack stands. Thanks.

I finally got time to take care of my car. My work schedule makes it difficult for me to make time for this. Sorry for the late reply. Anyway, I bought 2 engine mounts and trans mount, oem. And my mechanic installed them, and they showed some cracks but not very badly separated. It's about time for replacement. I could feel the difference after installation. But unfortunately, that didn't resolve the rattling noise problem. The mechanic then checked and found the noise comes from the LH catalytic converter. He let me bang at it and it rattled loudly. When I even banged at the RH cat, the LH one still rattled too. Only the LH cat is making noise. Other than the rattle noise, I got no CEL or codes. All O2 sensors and catalytic converters are original oem and work just fine since 1990. What should I do just to fix the noise? Thanks for all the help.