lsrxlex

Hi all, I have a 1990 LS400 with 306k miles. I recently noticed that my engine noise is getting louder and louder. Last month, I just got the timing belt, pulleys, seals, and water pump .... replaced at San Jose Lexus, and the Tech told me that "nothing unusual with the noise, except that noise at 1 or 2 exhaust valves on passenger side". And he did not recommend a valve adjustment, since the car "is too old". But I got a feeling that the noise getting louder since I started using "high-mileage" oil 5w-30 about 2 years ago ( at ~230k miles). One time, after 6 oil changes, I tried to go back to the regular oil 5w-30 again, but the noise seemed louder, so I switched back to "hi-mileage" 5w-30. Now, at the last oil change (at 305k), I started using High-mileage 10w-30, and the noise seems to reduce a little bit. (I change oil myself at ~5k miles). My question is: is High-mileage oil good for my engine? What kind of oil is most suitable for my engine now, to reduce the noise? I appreciate any input.

Wow, 305K miles. Amazing. What all have you had to do to the car? Any issues now, even minor? Thanks. Here what I have changed (besides regular fluids and filters changes) : LCD display on dash board, 2 PS pumps, 1 alternator, 2 racks+pinions ( the 1st time happened before I heard of this forum.), (I covered alternator with sheet metal now), starter, heater valve, brake master cylinder, 2 front calipers, 2 sets of front rotors, hood struts, engine and trans mounts, all bushings including those of the UCA ( still have the original UCA, but I think the ball joints are bad now), lower CA , 4 shock absorbers, recovery tank and coolant level sensor, (Koyo) radiator, 4 door speakers, 3 times of changing: timing belts + WP + pulleys + serpentine belts (last time included: cam and crank seals). I had the 2nd timing belt change at a Toyota dealer to save money, but I was not happy of the service and knowledge. They didn't know where to disconnect the radiator from the recovery tank, so apparently they disconnected it at the short copper tubing near the top of the radiator, and when reassembling they didn't have the new copper/brass washer, so they used RUBBER washer. Of course, I didn't notice the coolant loss until it's too late to complain. I ended up replacing the radiator myself. My problems now, since you asked, are: front seat leather cracked, window control switches (driver's side), all bushings (again), wind noise ( I have to get some days off to take care of this, since I am very slow- 65 year old), doors rattle when closing with lowered window ( need more days off...), engine noise is getting louder and louder. For this, I had a Lexus tech listened to it, and he said he didn't hear anything unsual, except noise at 1 or 2 exhaust valves (passenger side). But he said he would leave it alone, and after 6 years with Lexus, he's never knew any customers wanted the valve job done because "the car is too old" .

Hi all, I have a 1990 LS400 with 305k miles. I commute ~100 miles one-way daily from San Jose to Sacramento, and get back home at about 11PM on a regular basis. I'm not sure I need to replace the lower radiator hose or not (just for cheap insurance). (I checked visually and didn't see any cracks on the hose.) I appreciate any inputs.

Accordind to my 1999 RX300 Lexus Manual (hoping it would be the same for your model year): Torque for (transmission) drain plug: 49 N-m (500 kgf-cm, 36 ft-lbf).

I have tried to buy used parts but couldn't find them anywhere. I also used all kinds of glues, sealants, without success. So I ended up ordering those 2 OEM parts from IronToad. This is one of the common problems with this 200k+ old car.

I did replace one fusible link back in 2004. I'm not sure I still remember correctly. But I know that I had to remove the battery, then loosen/remove at least 2 bolts UNDER the Fusible Link to remove it. It's not the pull-and-plug type of fuse like the regular fuses. Here is what I found in the Factory Repair Manual: How to Remove Fusible Link in Fusible Link Block: 1. Remove the battery. 2. Remove the junction block cover. 3. Remove the fusible link block set bolt. 4. Pry loose three locking lugs. 5. Remove two bolts and fusible link. 6. Remove a bolt and disconnect connector and remove FL MAIN fusible link. I must admit that I don't understand what "FL MAIN" stands for. But I'm sure that I didn't have to remove all of the items as suggested by Lexus. I might have got around by just loosening some of them. I know that this practice is not good (!). Hope this helps. Don

I have a 1990 LS400, and ordered 1 new brake master cylinder and I got an exact the same new OEM master cylinder. I was so happy. Then I ordered 2 front remanufactured calipers (thru the same company Cardone) and I got the worst stuffs. They looked like being sand-blasted many times then covered with cheap paint. The bleeding nuts are new but fit loosely in the sand-blasted threads. The bushings of the sliding pins are of low quality by the look and it desintegrated after 6 months of installation. I had to reused the oringinal bleeding nuts and other rubber parts. At the same installation time, I also bought 4 new drilled, slotted rotors (on e-Bay, from a company in Los Angeles, CA). Then the steering wheel vibrated when braking. The mechanic said that it will "smooth out over 1 month. Don't worry!". And it did, but only slightly. Now I have to change with 2 new OEM rotors and OEM pads. I spent so much time and money to try to save some money!!!! (As for the front calipers, I plan to replace them when I upgrade to the '94-'00 brake system when I save enough money). Then I bought a remanufactured steering rack and pinion, of course, to try to save some money!!! After installing it, I sent back my old OEM to get back the "core" deposit. But the shipping charge I have to pay was 5 times the charge the seller paid when I ordered the item. UPS told me that I'm not the business clients... thus, no discount rate. My mechanic told me the rack and pinion I bought was "not exactly the same, although it looked almost the same, and it was short at connections at both ends" but he'd try to get it fit in my car. Later, I got problems with weird noise and shaking at steering, so I have Lexus check it out. They have to replace the rack again, but they have to charge me extra because the rack on my car was not the old OEM one! Luckily, after all that bad experiences, spending so much time and money, plus the frustration...., I have a working car now. So, to me, never after-market or remanufactured parts on: brake system, rack and pinion, power steering system, suspension, engine/transmission mounts. Sorry, remanufactured/rebuilt parts are meant to save the environment/planet... but.... , maybe I'm not so lucky. Or if I had the time, tools and knowledge, I would rebuild the parts (calipers, power steering pump,....) myself, using OEM rebuild kits. Just my 2 cents.

Hi all, What brake fluid should I use to add up to HIGH level? DOT3 regular or synthetic? my cars are 1990 ls400 and 1999 rx300. Thanks. don

hi all, i have rattle noise when closing 2 front doors ( after lowering door glasses). No noise when glasses are all the way up. i feel that the links ( of the closing/locking mechanism ) are touching the glasses, because i think i lost some of the insulation on the links.....(foam or felt insulation.....?). how should i fix it? thanks a lot. don

My car has TRAC control, do I need to bleed it too? If so, please show me how to. Also, since I have to bleed the system, may be it's time to switch to synthetic brake fluid (?). Is that a good idea? What kind of synthetic fluid should I use, if the switch is OK with this old car? Thanks for your promp advices. IronToad.com just let me know that Booster for 1990 LS400 is no longer available. Can I use the one of the newer model year of LS400? 1994, maybe?

Hi all, I plan to replace the Brake Booster on my 1990 LS400 (with 280k miles). Please help. Do I have to bleed the system afterward? Is there a way to avoid that? Thanks for your help.

Hi all, My brake booster effect decreases after 1 second of depressing brake pedal, at speeds over 45 mph, specially when I tried to stop at speed over 55 mph (depressing pedal real hard). I have replaced master cylinder, front brake calipers, front rotors and pads, but to no help. I already tested the booster as recommended by Lexus, and the test seemed fine. What would be the problem? Do I have to replace/repair booster or any vacuum valves? and where to look for those valves? (My car: 1990 ls400, 280k miles) Thanks for your help.

What do you guys think of this thread at Clublexus.com under "All ls400 owners with bad gas mileage Read This"? I think they're talking about replacing the Water Temperature Sensor (?). Thanks.

I've been looking for the same part too. And it seems that we have to do something to get around it, if we could, while waiting for the part. What's your thought. Thanks a million. Don

I just got the exact same problem: While engine off, just insert key in ignition, but no key-turning, then the humming starts. Pull the key out, then no more humming. The humming noise is somewhere in the front of engine compartment and way below the exhaust manifold. Any suggestions?

Hi all, Please suggest the best way to remove excess ATF or engine oil because of overfill. Thanks.

I damaged a fusible link on my 1990 LS400 once. And I had to disconnect the battery, loosen something to get under the fuse box, then loosen 2 bolts that hold the fusible link. The amperage of the link can be found on the fuse box, or the inside of it. Then I brought the link to a local Toyota dealer to buy a replacement with the same amperage. On my 1999 RX300, I've never got same problem, so I just hope this info would help in some way. Good luck.

I have a 1999 RX300 with 123k miles and I think I should change the tranny filter now, before it's too late, even though it still runs OK. Please let us know the part numbers for the filter and its gasket. Any directions how to do it will be of great help. How one can have an Used Oil Analysis done? I've never done this before. I just change ATF every ~10k miles. One time I had an Indie did a ATF flush, and it made the tranny even worse and the fluid became so dark, much much darker than before he did it!!! After that, I had to change ATF 6 times in a row at an interval of ~100 miles to get back to the original feeling of performance like before. So, to me, no more ATF flush; just more frequent change intervals. The fluid color is now almost like of the new one. Thanks.

Hi all, Per job requirement, I have to drive ~100 miles daily (80% freeway), so I just need help to decide between buying a brand new RX350 or RX400h. I'm 63 and don't drive fast. I currently own a 1999 AWD RX300 with 121k miles (original owner). It just had Timing belt and Water pump..... replaced (@113k) at dealer (I provided dealer with parts I bought on the Internet). I do all the fluid changes, spark plug change, TB cleaning,... myself. And so far, the car runs pretty good. It still has the original brake pads. I'm happy with the RX300 so far. But now, to make the buying decision, I'm not sure about the maintenance level requirements of the hybrid RX400h. Can I still handle most of them myself, like with the RX300? How to compare extra time/cost of maintenance and higher purchase price...versus the savings on gas? I plan to keep the car for ~10 years or more (if I'm still around). (I've never owned a hybrid before). I'll appreciate all the help and inputs.

Hi all, I used 409 and a soft toothbrush to clean the black fiberglass liner of the hood, but I didn't get a good clean. Besides, the fiberglass was easy to catch lints. Any ideas how to clean it correctly? Thanks.

LEXUS in Westminster, CA, allowed me to bring in my OEM parts ( timing belt, water pump, thermostat, drive and PS pump belts....) ordered from IronToad, and they charged me just for labor. I asked to get old parts back, since they said they don't guarranty the parts I bought elsewhere. And when I picked up the car, they carefully put them in a box after thoughroughly cleaned them!!! I even marked all the new parts with a Shrapie, even on water pump, thermostat and timing belt which are very hard for me to verify once installed. I also showed them the prices that I paid for those parts (copy of the receipt) which were way below theirs. (I noticed the old parts looked almost brand new after 113k miles, on a 1999 RX300, specially the timing belt.) Sometime afterwards, I had brake pads changed and I got the same deal. Good and friendly service!

I just got a quote fron Drew at IronToad Lexus Parts on 5/31/07 (for 1999 rx300): Engine air filter 17801-03010: $22.40 Cabin air filter 87139-48020-83: $36.00 Prices are almost the same as the counter at any walk-in Lexus Parts department in San Jose, CA. Anybody knows when did IronToad jack up their prices on Internet order? I'd switch to another dealer. Thanks

I already bought front and rear brake pad sets. Then I called Lexus, and they wanted $199 for labor to turn rotors (front or rear set) and to install new pads (front or rear). So total cost to pay them is $199x2. ( When I brouht the car in for alignment earlier, they said my rear pads had about 2 mm left and they recommended the work). But somehow, they didn't recommend replacing new rotors (?). Does Lexus now allow turning rotors instead of replacing them? My 1999-RX300 has 121k miles, and this is the first time it needs brake pads replaced. (I cann't believe the original pads could last so long, 121k and 8 years). So do you think I should buy 2 sets of shim kits and have them replace for me too? And after the replacement, what should I do to break in the new pads and periodically maintain them? Thanks

Please show me how to: -break-in new pads, and -periodically re-break-in them Thank you very much.

I used to buy my batteries at Kragen, but they always die before the warranties end. And when coming back buying new ones, they gave me some credit but only after prorating .... So I ended up paying more than buying from Walmart. I think Walmart batteries last longer. I've even tried Costco with almost the same price range. But their business hours are not as good as Walmart stores' which open very early in AM and don't close until 11PM at some locations. If I think the car's electrical system is OK, then I just replace the battery at the first symptom of weakness in its performance. Overnite recharging with a recharger, or automatic recharger, didn't help to prolong its life for more than 1 week. It's not worth the trouble to me.