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Go to a dealer with ID. And proof of ownership maybe they can help [ tell them you just had your battery changed ] Don't let them push you into spending $

What is the reason you need this pgm ? maybe another way !!!

Lexus Needle Kludge Fix Page 1 of 5 “Kludge-fix” for Lexus Instrument Panel Needles rev. 5/26/2003 Summary: This fix utilizes fluorescent paint on the tips of the needles and a UV light source to illuminate them to make an improvement in their visibility when the needles have “burned-out” from years of use. This fix is considered a “kludge,” because the improvement is not perfect: the needles’ visibility in bright sunlight is still hampered, though improved. However, in the shade, cloudy weather, and especially at night, the improvement is very nice, and the look of the dash, when slightly bathed in a nondistracting UV glow is quite spectacular, though the photos shown below do not do it justice. –Michael O. Tjebben (Michael.Tjebben@icverifex.com), LexusOwnersClub, USA (lexusownersclub.com) Special thanks to Jim Walker, also of LexusOwnersClub, USA who earlier fixed my “flickering” display problem, provided me with the 12Vdc connection information, and inspired me to experiment with fixing the needles. Supplies needed: · Fluorescent paint, usually available at most hobby or craft stores. I used redorange. · One 12” cold-cathode 12Vdc UV light with inverter of the type used by PC Gamers to modify their computer cases to “show off their hardware.” I used the model (p/n: 296200) from compusa.com. (Just type “cathode” in the search box and hit “go” – the results may show “black” for “UV”.) · Two 4” wires able to handle, at most, about 500mA. · Solder and soldering iron, Phillips-head screwdriver. · Black Electrical Tape · Optional: aluminum tape (used for taping HVAC ducts). Can usually be purchased in the USA at homedepot.com or lowes.com and is probably available at many hardware stores. Used to reflect more UV back towards the display. Lexus Needle Kludge Fix Page 2 of 5 Instructions: Remove the instrument cluster from the Lexus following the Lexus repair manual or the instructions given by Jim Walker. You will need to disassemble enough to get to the back of the main power supply board for the instrument cluster. To the back of the main circuit board, solder wires of about 4-inches-length to pins 1 and 6 of the white connector, at the back of the circuit board as shown in the figures below: Note that the positive terminal for the 12Vdc is on pin 1 the connector, and the ground on pin 6 as shown in the figure immediately below: Lexus Needle Kludge Fix Page 3 of 5 Optionally, tape a length of the aluminum tape to the bottom of the display. Remove the backing of the adhesive on the supports of the cold cathode tube and mount the tube near the front of the display, but leave enough space to mount the inverter (which also has sticky-tape) to the left of the tube. Do not block the view of the temperature display. Route the white wires of the inverter to the far left of the inverter, and the red and white to the front and over the edge of the display. Paint the tips of all four needles with some fluorescent paint. I used red-orange. Lexus Needle Kludge Fix Page 4 of 5 Apply some black electrical tape to the inside bottom edge of the clear display cover as shown in the following figure. Lay enough tape in parallel so that when the clear cover is placed back over the display, it will just block your view of the UV lamp. Do not tape any wider (higher) than this, or you will obscure the Temperature, Odometer, and “idiot lights.” You may tape closer to the ends of the clear piece than I did shown below for better looks. Then, optionally, lay one or more pieces of aluminum tape over the black to serve to reflect the UV light back towards the display. Why put the black electrical tape first? It looks better when viewed through the clear display when everything is reassembled. DO temporarily put the clear cover back on the instrument panel and look at it to make sure you can see the lights, temperature display, and odometer at the bottom before you permanently assemble everything! It is MUCH easier to make adjustments NOW, before you get everything put back together and in the car! Cut the molex (standard PC power) connector from the set of wires supplied with the inverter, but leave the small white plug for future ease in assembling/disassembling. Solder the other ends of the wires to extend the power connections that were soldered as shown in the very first figure above. Be certain to solder the red wire to the positive wire and the black to the ground wire. Tape the wires so that they are “out-of-the-way.” Lexus Needle Kludge Fix Page 5 of 5 Reassemble everything and replace the entire unit into the car, following the instructions in the Lexus repair manual, or those given by Jim Walker. Now, you should have improved visibility of the needle tips as shown in the following figures (which don’t do the fix justice!). Note that this “kludge-fix” is not perfect – you will not see great improvement in bright sunlight, but under most other conditions, it’ll help. At night, however, the display is best and looks pretty cool, especially bathed in a non-distracting UV glow. I have tested my fix with a hand-held GPS to make sure that this paint-method does not alter the speed reading more than 1 mph. It appears, at worst case, that I am actually traveling 1mph faster than my instruments are reading, but that is only speculating, because it usually looks dead-on! With the backlighting turned completely down: HOW ABOUT THIS ??? B) B) B)

THANK GOD I HAVE A GS !!! Never had a problem except for my right foot Get the lex and enjoy

Keep the lexus wheels , I was going to put those exact wheels on my 98 g3 in chrome - blk on blk . nice car !!!

Very nice !!! when is the pool party ? Your neighbors would love to have 3-400 nice lexus around the property . Maybe it would increase the value of the neighborhood I'll bring the steaks and lobster

http://lextech.org/forum/index.php?act=SF&f=2 try this zigzag and all of your q's will be answered. anytime

You can drive your es without the cluster but you must keep your gas full and follow traffic to be safe If you want the interim cluster e-mail me and I will send it to you , maybe you want to buy it ? priced right , will sell at my cost + shipping .

when you are done wrap the funnel in a plastic bag as to not contaminate for your next fill. works for me !

get a funnel with a hose on it [ made for tranny refill ] and fill in the tranny dipstick filler tube [ same tube where your dipstick is ] pour slowly and make sure the hose is snug in the filler tube .

Just pull the drain plug and replace the fluid no need to drop the pan unless there is an existing problem , there is no filter to replace just a screen welded to the pan , if you drop the pan you will need a new gasket . As far as replacing the fluid after a couple of hundred miles , only if you are switching to a different brand of tranny fluid which I would not do , use toyota fluid .

needles $99.00 at lextech.org and bulbs were $20.00 + shipping both ways

disconnect the neg. battery terminal for 20 min. reconnect and go drive the car like you just stole it [ it has been said that a ecu takes 30-40 starts to reprogram to your driving habits .

I use my win xp home ed. and locate the file , highlight all the files you want to , rightclick >send to>drive with the burner , m , n , etc... and go through the prompts . I Have a 98gs300 with a factory cd changer [ that I installed after I bought the car , long story ] and have never had a problem I use memorex cd-rs , not cdrw's the changer will not read cd-rw's .

bdgonkersgoed , there are no aftermarket needles available , you send in your current cluster , they are reworked and then your cluster gets sent back to you , that is why I have a interim cluster on hand. I have been through the ENTIRE PROCESS OF REPLACING EVERY LIT OBJECT ON A 92-96 ES300 CLUSTER ,I have most of it memorized and the rest on film or on digital .

eli2k , need a climate control screen ? do you think it is the backlighting bulbs or the lcd ?

OK , Here is the deal on the long posts on the meter case , the posts are what sends the reading to your visual signal to the charachter plate [ which is what you see in the drivers seat ] these posts can be pulled out [ ever so slightly or pushed in ever so slightly to adjust to the circuit plate insulated contacts [ they are square and silver with pressure contacts inside of them ] DO NOT BEND THESE WHEN REPLACING THE CIRCUIT PLATE ] This isn't as bad as it seems but one has to be very aware and alert from start to finish .IT IS YOUR LEXUS , I can walk you through the process via e-mail and send any and all pix that you may need [ although this will take time and is well worth it .

If you guys need more info on this topic I have more pix that i cannot post [ too big etc... ] dabaysidejill01@att.net and I will send all info that I have available . I can give you guys giudelines on balancing the needles . I also have a cluster for interim use [ 92-96 ES300 ] If you need to send yours out . I hope this helps .

http://lextech.org/forum/index.php?act=ST&f=10&t=40 this should help !!!

The different needles .

pix

It helps with protecting the engine bay from road debris , airflow factors , overall protection ,

Still under warranty ? back to dealer , let them test drive with you in the car .

I hope this helps , Lower the steering wheel to it's lowest position and disconnect the neg battery cable . There are 2 screw covers on the upper bezel that have to be pryed down , remove the screws [ phillips head ] pull the bezel off and disconnect the connector that is on the lower right side , Now there are 4 screws that hold the cluster 2 on top and 2 on the bottom remove them and then disconnect the 3 connectors on the back top [ use a small screwdriver to push down on the clips on the top center of each connector ] now remove the cluster and place it on a soft surface so you don't scratch the faceplate and remove the back cover and the circuit plate [ there are 4 screws behind the gas and temp guages and 1 each behind the speedo and tach ] carefully pull the circuit plate off [ there are small long posts that are behind the speedo and tach that are sensative and need to be put back together very carefully ] at this point all of the bulb sockets are exposed , they come out with a 1/4 turn and the bulbs pull straight out , all the bulbs can be replaced with the same bulb.....EIKO #8640 . when replacing the bulbs pry out the contacts a bit on the bulb itself as to insure positive contact and you will never have to bang on your dash or deal with flicker .I have done this with great success on my wifes 93 es [ 92-96 same procedure ]

Anybody from the minneapolis / St. Paul area , Where will the closest meet be ?