dcfish

I wonder what the original color was ? Why paint it ? Must have been a free paint job Maybe Gangsta's on drugs now he has to sell to pay debts

To each his own , lousy paint and ghetto wheels :chairshot:

Public parking use only , I work at two private golf courses that in itself is hazardous but all members respect others property lexo's , ferraris , mb's , porsche , jaguar , etc...oh yeah there are a few bmw's still around

I agree with AWJ , Drain and fill , 200 miles between fills is better than a total drain and fill , and i wouldn't wait the 15000 between , buy the tranny fluid by the case and save $ one mans opinion :whistles:

http://www.neosyntheticoil.com/contents.htm I use neo synthetic motor oil with a toyota filter 10w/30 summer and 5w/30 winter , never had a problem .

water pump , gasket, idler , both belts at 90,000 irontoad.com has good prices on what is needed . And you will need to replace your coolant. B)

Rust Converter - Rust Treatment 1 Step Info Rust Converter FAQ 1 Step M.S.D.S. Safety Cabinets Weed Control Coatings [1 Step Info] [Rust Converter FAQ] [1 Step M.S.D.S.] "1" STEP (THE RUST KILLER) converter treatment neutralizes existing rust and acts as a smooth long lasting primer on both rusted metal and previously painted surfaces. "1" STEP (THE RUST KILLER) can be sanded, top coated, body puttied or left as is. Clean surface from grease, dirt and oil. Remove loose rust. Paint directly on top of rusted area. It quickly kills rust and neutralizes it completely. Water based "1"STEP rust converter works by a chemical reaction to eliminate rust and covers up to 500 sq. ft. per gallon. See before and after pictures below. Another quality product from Interstate Products, Inc. Currently in use by: government, industrial and personal users all over the world for more then 10 years. Advanced production tools and high volume allow us to keep our standards higher and our prices considerably lower then the competition. "1" STEP THE RUST KILLER Converts rust into an inert polymer and long lasting protective coating. Kills Rust Dead! You will have the option to purchase below. Please call for questions or bulk discounts. 1-800-474-7294. Most orders are shipped within 1 to 2 business days by UPS or larger quantities by truck line system. "1" STEP (THE RUST KILLER) is the cost effective long lasting and safe to use rust control treatment that eliminates sandblasting, heavy wire brushing or use of toxic acid penetrates. Applying "1" Step BEFORE PHOTO: Apply "1" STEP (THE RUST KILLER) to any rusted surface. "1" STEP treatment penetrates and neutralizes the rust. White when applied and then dries into long lasting black protective coating. After Two Years AFTER PHOTO: After two years the untreated metal underneath has rusted away. "1" STEP treatment continues to protect the metal section above it. For use on: structures, machinery, equipment, vehicles, railings, marine applications, and more. ( To prepare surface: simply remove any loose rust, grease or oil and paint on with roller or brush. ) Dries in 30 minutes into a black protective coating. Gives 2 to 4 x the rust protection of an acrylic or enamel paint without a top coat. Clean painting tools right away and use just soap and water for clean up. Field and lab tested. Safer to use then latex paint. If spilled on concrete-wash with soap and water immediately as "1" Step Rust Converter is extremely difficult to remove. Neutralizes, primes and provides long lasting rust protection in one easy treatment! Features: Non-Flammable-Low VOC Easy to use Non-Toxic and emits no harmful fumes Water Based Treatment Approved for use on all non-food contact surface May be top coated with paint Protects against future corrosion Eliminates and kills rust You may purchase on line below. To order by phone or if you have questions, please call us at 1-800-474-7294. "1" STEP (THE RUST KILLER) Rust Converter FAQ's Rust Converter M.S.D.S. Sheet info@interstateproducts.com Rust Remover Hope this helps !!!!

Once rust starts it will continue to degrade , anything you put on it to stop it will only make you feel better - not take the problem away .

Shweet Ride ! I like it plain and simple , beautiful :D Keep it between the lines -and enjoy for a long time .

By the way my wifes es [ 93 ] is starting to rust on the drivers door lower rear [ like the drain holes in the door were plugged , but not the case ] so.................

Either get it fixed at a reputable body shop , sell the car , or live with it , we all get gray with time .

B) BLK on BLK , keep it clean , no matter what color you choose the same amount of dirt , grime etc... is on your auto , just not convincing to the human acception and as we only see in a limited spectrum of color , I WOULD LIKE A PURE CHROME AUTO with silver leather and dark sunglasses B)

If you find a good solution keep us posted , I FIND THAT SOMEONES CUSTOM WORK LEADS TO SOMEONES PRODUCTION IF THE DEMAND IS THERE , Next thing you see LEXUS will go all led . After all they did figure out the probs with there initial led applications .

Probably your amp , Need one e-mail and I will get you one check your connections and test your speakers to make sure that they are working , We'll figure this out for you !!!

I think you are going to have a tough time finding them , I can't even find clear taillights for my 98 GS300 with colored bulbs , custom work is the only way that I know of so far . Will keep searching..........................................................

more

soarer tail

http://lextech.org/forum/index.php?act=ST&f=2&t=61 Is this what you are looking for ? These guys do great work .

You can try reseting your cars memory by disconnecting the neg. battery terminal for 20 min . and then reconnect and go for a drive and see if that does the trick , If it comes on again there may be a problem - then get the car diagnosed and find what is causing this .

use at your own discression

There are two types of needles offered. Waterfall and SMD. Waterfall was a name given to the needles that use a single led to fire them rather than multiple SMD's (surface mount diodes). In the traditional needle, 18 SMD's were used to light the needle. they ran all the way up the inside face of the needle and pointed directly into the face. This made for a needle that was very brilliant, but unfortunately the needle was made completely of plastic. Over time the severe heat dries the plastic out and it becomes brittle. This process starts to seperate the needle inside and the end result is a flickering or dead needle. This has been eliminated with the aluminum SMD from Lextech Lighting. The needle is hand made using solid aluminum. There are no machines involved in any needle builds at all. Each needle is hand crafted and burn tested for top quality control. It is the equivalent of mom's apple pie, you can only get it one place. The waterfall needle fires from the base using a single ultra high output LED. It is aimed towards the tip, and a custom hand carved backing is assembled to keep the light inside the needle. These needles are called waterfall because they are super brilliant at the base and taper off towards the tip slightly. This effect has been dubbed the waterfall effect. Waterfall needles DO NOT fade to black at the tips. They simply have less output at the far end than they begin with. The reason why this does not appear in most photo's is because it is insignificant enough to not show up with a camera. On some ES needles the plastic is thicker and may cause a more significant drop towards the tip, but we always try and ensure it never fades to black. Waterfall needles for the ES come in Yellow only due to the brown tinted face of the ES needle. They are $99. SMD needles come in Red or Amber and can be purchased directly from us for $199.95. What we do is simply gut the needles and install and calibrate the new one's into the cluster. What you can see is only a plastic cover and the needle itself is under that cover. The yellow waterfall needles are custom built using high output led's and then calibrated to your cluster, as well as a voltage change is made to accomodate the needles. The red SMD needles are built using 138 SMD's rather than led's. They are then installed into the old covers and calibrated to the cluster, no voltage changes are made. The SMD's pack heat into the needle, which is why the old needles fail. The old one's however are plastic, and the new ones are aluminum. while this in itself is a major plus, you cannot deny there will still be massive heat. The SMD's heat up most when the car is at idle since no airflow moves beneath the needle as it sits still. To counteract this, the SMD's are built with a voltage regulation system that cuts them off at idle. Since there is no good reason for anyone to be sitting in their car staring at them idling, this proves to be an effective method for suring the overheating problem of SMD's, which was the one thing Lexus overlooked when they originally built them. The overall biggest difference betwen the yellow waterfalls and the red SMD's is that the waterfalls tend to fade out slightly at the tip, hence the name waterfall. The SMD's are solid all the way. The fade is not extremely bad, and each needle is different, but i have rarely if ever see the tip go actually black. it is just a fade effect towards the extreme end of the needle. SOME MORE INFO !!!

Go to a dealer with ID. And proof of ownership maybe they can help [ tell them you just had your battery changed ] Don't let them push you into spending $

What is the reason you need this pgm ? maybe another way !!!

Lexus Needle Kludge Fix Page 1 of 5 “Kludge-fix” for Lexus Instrument Panel Needles rev. 5/26/2003 Summary: This fix utilizes fluorescent paint on the tips of the needles and a UV light source to illuminate them to make an improvement in their visibility when the needles have “burned-out” from years of use. This fix is considered a “kludge,” because the improvement is not perfect: the needles’ visibility in bright sunlight is still hampered, though improved. However, in the shade, cloudy weather, and especially at night, the improvement is very nice, and the look of the dash, when slightly bathed in a nondistracting UV glow is quite spectacular, though the photos shown below do not do it justice. –Michael O. Tjebben (Michael.Tjebben@icverifex.com), LexusOwnersClub, USA (lexusownersclub.com) Special thanks to Jim Walker, also of LexusOwnersClub, USA who earlier fixed my “flickering” display problem, provided me with the 12Vdc connection information, and inspired me to experiment with fixing the needles. Supplies needed: · Fluorescent paint, usually available at most hobby or craft stores. I used redorange. · One 12” cold-cathode 12Vdc UV light with inverter of the type used by PC Gamers to modify their computer cases to “show off their hardware.” I used the model (p/n: 296200) from compusa.com. (Just type “cathode” in the search box and hit “go” – the results may show “black” for “UV”.) · Two 4” wires able to handle, at most, about 500mA. · Solder and soldering iron, Phillips-head screwdriver. · Black Electrical Tape · Optional: aluminum tape (used for taping HVAC ducts). Can usually be purchased in the USA at homedepot.com or lowes.com and is probably available at many hardware stores. Used to reflect more UV back towards the display. Lexus Needle Kludge Fix Page 2 of 5 Instructions: Remove the instrument cluster from the Lexus following the Lexus repair manual or the instructions given by Jim Walker. You will need to disassemble enough to get to the back of the main power supply board for the instrument cluster. To the back of the main circuit board, solder wires of about 4-inches-length to pins 1 and 6 of the white connector, at the back of the circuit board as shown in the figures below: Note that the positive terminal for the 12Vdc is on pin 1 the connector, and the ground on pin 6 as shown in the figure immediately below: Lexus Needle Kludge Fix Page 3 of 5 Optionally, tape a length of the aluminum tape to the bottom of the display. Remove the backing of the adhesive on the supports of the cold cathode tube and mount the tube near the front of the display, but leave enough space to mount the inverter (which also has sticky-tape) to the left of the tube. Do not block the view of the temperature display. Route the white wires of the inverter to the far left of the inverter, and the red and white to the front and over the edge of the display. Paint the tips of all four needles with some fluorescent paint. I used red-orange. Lexus Needle Kludge Fix Page 4 of 5 Apply some black electrical tape to the inside bottom edge of the clear display cover as shown in the following figure. Lay enough tape in parallel so that when the clear cover is placed back over the display, it will just block your view of the UV lamp. Do not tape any wider (higher) than this, or you will obscure the Temperature, Odometer, and “idiot lights.” You may tape closer to the ends of the clear piece than I did shown below for better looks. Then, optionally, lay one or more pieces of aluminum tape over the black to serve to reflect the UV light back towards the display. Why put the black electrical tape first? It looks better when viewed through the clear display when everything is reassembled. DO temporarily put the clear cover back on the instrument panel and look at it to make sure you can see the lights, temperature display, and odometer at the bottom before you permanently assemble everything! It is MUCH easier to make adjustments NOW, before you get everything put back together and in the car! Cut the molex (standard PC power) connector from the set of wires supplied with the inverter, but leave the small white plug for future ease in assembling/disassembling. Solder the other ends of the wires to extend the power connections that were soldered as shown in the very first figure above. Be certain to solder the red wire to the positive wire and the black to the ground wire. Tape the wires so that they are “out-of-the-way.” Lexus Needle Kludge Fix Page 5 of 5 Reassemble everything and replace the entire unit into the car, following the instructions in the Lexus repair manual, or those given by Jim Walker. Now, you should have improved visibility of the needle tips as shown in the following figures (which don’t do the fix justice!). Note that this “kludge-fix” is not perfect – you will not see great improvement in bright sunlight, but under most other conditions, it’ll help. At night, however, the display is best and looks pretty cool, especially bathed in a non-distracting UV glow. I have tested my fix with a hand-held GPS to make sure that this paint-method does not alter the speed reading more than 1 mph. It appears, at worst case, that I am actually traveling 1mph faster than my instruments are reading, but that is only speculating, because it usually looks dead-on! With the backlighting turned completely down: HOW ABOUT THIS ??? B) B) B)

THANK GOD I HAVE A GS !!! Never had a problem except for my right foot Get the lex and enjoy