dcfish

Very nice !!! when is the pool party ? Your neighbors would love to have 3-400 nice lexus around the property . Maybe it would increase the value of the neighborhood I'll bring the steaks and lobster

http://lextech.org/forum/index.php?act=SF&f=2 try this zigzag and all of your q's will be answered. anytime

You can drive your es without the cluster but you must keep your gas full and follow traffic to be safe If you want the interim cluster e-mail me and I will send it to you , maybe you want to buy it ? priced right , will sell at my cost + shipping .

when you are done wrap the funnel in a plastic bag as to not contaminate for your next fill. works for me !

get a funnel with a hose on it [ made for tranny refill ] and fill in the tranny dipstick filler tube [ same tube where your dipstick is ] pour slowly and make sure the hose is snug in the filler tube .

Just pull the drain plug and replace the fluid no need to drop the pan unless there is an existing problem , there is no filter to replace just a screen welded to the pan , if you drop the pan you will need a new gasket . As far as replacing the fluid after a couple of hundred miles , only if you are switching to a different brand of tranny fluid which I would not do , use toyota fluid .

needles $99.00 at lextech.org and bulbs were $20.00 + shipping both ways

disconnect the neg. battery terminal for 20 min. reconnect and go drive the car like you just stole it [ it has been said that a ecu takes 30-40 starts to reprogram to your driving habits .

I use my win xp home ed. and locate the file , highlight all the files you want to , rightclick >send to>drive with the burner , m , n , etc... and go through the prompts . I Have a 98gs300 with a factory cd changer [ that I installed after I bought the car , long story ] and have never had a problem I use memorex cd-rs , not cdrw's the changer will not read cd-rw's .

bdgonkersgoed , there are no aftermarket needles available , you send in your current cluster , they are reworked and then your cluster gets sent back to you , that is why I have a interim cluster on hand. I have been through the ENTIRE PROCESS OF REPLACING EVERY LIT OBJECT ON A 92-96 ES300 CLUSTER ,I have most of it memorized and the rest on film or on digital .

eli2k , need a climate control screen ? do you think it is the backlighting bulbs or the lcd ?

OK , Here is the deal on the long posts on the meter case , the posts are what sends the reading to your visual signal to the charachter plate [ which is what you see in the drivers seat ] these posts can be pulled out [ ever so slightly or pushed in ever so slightly to adjust to the circuit plate insulated contacts [ they are square and silver with pressure contacts inside of them ] DO NOT BEND THESE WHEN REPLACING THE CIRCUIT PLATE ] This isn't as bad as it seems but one has to be very aware and alert from start to finish .IT IS YOUR LEXUS , I can walk you through the process via e-mail and send any and all pix that you may need [ although this will take time and is well worth it .

If you guys need more info on this topic I have more pix that i cannot post [ too big etc... ] dabaysidejill01@att.net and I will send all info that I have available . I can give you guys giudelines on balancing the needles . I also have a cluster for interim use [ 92-96 ES300 ] If you need to send yours out . I hope this helps .

http://lextech.org/forum/index.php?act=ST&f=10&t=40 this should help !!!

The different needles .

pix

It helps with protecting the engine bay from road debris , airflow factors , overall protection ,

Still under warranty ? back to dealer , let them test drive with you in the car .

I hope this helps , Lower the steering wheel to it's lowest position and disconnect the neg battery cable . There are 2 screw covers on the upper bezel that have to be pryed down , remove the screws [ phillips head ] pull the bezel off and disconnect the connector that is on the lower right side , Now there are 4 screws that hold the cluster 2 on top and 2 on the bottom remove them and then disconnect the 3 connectors on the back top [ use a small screwdriver to push down on the clips on the top center of each connector ] now remove the cluster and place it on a soft surface so you don't scratch the faceplate and remove the back cover and the circuit plate [ there are 4 screws behind the gas and temp guages and 1 each behind the speedo and tach ] carefully pull the circuit plate off [ there are small long posts that are behind the speedo and tach that are sensative and need to be put back together very carefully ] at this point all of the bulb sockets are exposed , they come out with a 1/4 turn and the bulbs pull straight out , all the bulbs can be replaced with the same bulb.....EIKO #8640 . when replacing the bulbs pry out the contacts a bit on the bulb itself as to insure positive contact and you will never have to bang on your dash or deal with flicker .I have done this with great success on my wifes 93 es [ 92-96 same procedure ]

Anybody from the minneapolis / St. Paul area , Where will the closest meet be ?

SK , you are right as every situation is different .

I agree , when in doubt a new rotor is best ,

No hard feelings JPI as you are a = like the rest of us ! :D

:whistles:

There is a method of turning the rotors while they are still on the auto [ rather than turning them off the vehichle ] that produces a truer balance and they finish with circular finish when pads are replaced as to wear the new pads to the like new rotors instead of to the new grooves produced by old fashioned lathe work . I had mine done at a toyota dealer 20,000 mi. ago and still true to balance . Only my opinion as the best way to go .