AWJ

Ahh the ever popular cheater bar. I like it.

Front bumper to back bumper 4860 mm. Or for you non metric people 191.34 inches. Divide by 12 if you want feet. Edit: TallKDR beat me. Our faq says - overall length - 191.1" wich I copied directly verbatim out of the 1993 dealers brochure I used to have. Sold that to another user after my accident almost two years ago. Man that was a bad move. Selling the manuals and documentation that is.

Ok - you say it is making noise so I assume the switch for it wasn't turned off. There is a manual switch for that thing - or is it just for the auto return? D'oh. Anyways - you can remove the plastic surround. Look real carefull at what you got. Take a screwdriver to it. I have heard of people having success taking the gear out, cleaning everything up real nice and putting some quality grease in there. Reassemble and see if it works. You hear noise, so I'll bet it is in a bind for one reason or another. Possibly just old grease and dirt. Good luck.

Sometimes you can borrow tools with a deposit from stores like autozone. Bring them back undamaged and get your money back. If you don't want to buy them that is.

Hey my man, take it to a stereo shop. I wouldn't go to the dealer.

You are just playing along right? I grabbed the image from www.mkiv.com - they have some jza80 factory service manual images available. Kind of a handy site to have bookmarked.

Nice plates. I have the three step Novous poly carbonate cleaner. My passenger side light is a little less than shiny. Looks good. I'll have to give mine a shot when I get some time.

Lighter pulleys are worth it. But you need to consider the harmonic balancer or vibration damper if you replace the crank pulley. I do believe the 2jz- variations are some of the best internally balanced motors out there though if all the literature is correct. I still get nervous though.

I had it backwards.

Hmmm.... revisited - had some typo's and unclear statements in there. You guys should tell me when I do that. I added some comic relief too.

Sounds like they are getting shaken loose my man. You'll have to figure a way to keep them from slidin out when listening to that bass track or turn it down a little.

you sure about that? The lower the ratio, the quicker the response - the quicker the inertial limit is met yes? The higher the ratio - the slower the response but the longer the it takes to meet the limit. That is why the Supra's have a higher top speed but I'll jump him on the line. (If he's just your average bpu and not a better driver than me.) Ratio is x turns to make y turns yes? So if the shaft takes three times to turn the wheels 1 it will happen sooner than 4 times to turn 1. Thus the higher the ratio, the less torque. I'm not saying it is significant, but it will be affected. And it will be seen at the top end as well. I could have it backwards though. I've been doing that lately. It took me a while to figure out air fuel ratio too. For some reason that stuff screws with my head. And you guys are making it hard on my head... I'm gonna go to bed and think about it.

<_<

Hey advan. There are a couple of options for you. Getting another lexus steering wheel would be one. It will probably need some type of modification. Either for mounting or wiring. A good shop can do it. You'll have to pick one you like. There was a company doing retrofitting of the existing wheel. You have to send it in. So you'd be without one for a while. Don't recall the name or contact info though. I'll have to dig it up if someone else does not know it. Another option are the aftermarket wheels from the likes of TRD and Sparco and the like. Either way, it is going to cost. Good luck.

Sounds good bubbles. The post you can't find was probably lost when we had a server failure a month or so ago. Thanks for putting that back up. Look forward to the pics.

No. It really shouldn't shake like that. It is hard to diagnose on line though. Good luck. It won't hurt to have a shop look at it. You might get lucky and they'll know what the problem is at least. Give everything a good look see.

There are some options. Supra TT seats will fit. It has been done. They do look good. I haven't changed the seats though. I have my eyes on black leather Sparco street seats (the competition seats are too rigid for me). That will have to wait a while. Problem is, you lose the lazy boy style comfort of the lexus seat and all the electronic nicities with them. But you might be already comfortable with that if it means you will fit in there a little better. I haven't done it though. I'll see if I can scratch up a pic or two of the supra seats in there. And there is a pic or two somewhere of sparcos in an sc too. The Sparcos and similar brands are pricey though. (MVP has them on sale). jzz30 is one step ahead of me every where lately.

You can see the lower bushing completely disintegrated in the picture of the lower arm removed. Lexus does not offer this bushing as a spare part. They require us to buy a new arm. D'oh - jinx. You owe me a pop. ;)

Hard to say what the problem is for sure without being there. When you say loss of traction, I'm thinking your tires are spinning out from the road. Your car probably has traction control and it's trying to keep them from spinning out. The thumping you hear might just be the traction control in action. If you are mechanically inclined, check your e-brake adjustment at the rear rotors. Check the rotor surfaces for damage. Aside from that or if you are not mechanical - you probably should take it in.

xoom4 - there is a video of a supercharged SC4 from across the pond somewhere. I'll see if I can dig it up. I heard there was something definite coming available for the 1uz aftermarket a couple months ago. I think there was a link somewhere. I'll try to dig it up. The supercharger is probably easier to do than turbo on the 1uz due to space issues. Twin turbos on the SC4 seem to have to be mounted lower than the oil pan in order to fit and this causes lots of problems like oil return issues, down pipe and ground clearance, and what not. A single turbo SC4 would be more ideal in my opinion but then where to put it? It would be expensive to do as it is one off. A lot of items have to be relocated I think. The only issue with the Supercharger (provided you can get a kit) is getting the hood to close - and I think the guys solved it. The Lextreme website also has some good information. But if anyone here has some stories, I'd like to read them too. B)

You're in Cincy eh? Small world. Drop a dime some time. If you want to try to keep the old rez - you will have to try some rigging. I'm thinking if you can find an internally/externally threaded nipple that matches the threads of the sensor, then you could drill out the hole to just under the external thread diameter of the nipple. Then either tap the new hole or heat the insert and the plastic rez will mold into the external threads to hopefully form a nice seal. Or you could make your own out of a plastic bottle of some sort. Get creative. I'm really buisy for the next few months - but if you want, we might be able to meet up and see what we can rig. It might even look good. Don't hold me to it though for now. I will have time come March.

Thanks for the write up jzz30. For those interested in removing the old arms to put after market bushings in them - you will need to press the old bushings out with a press or use the heat and gouge method. Then regrease the keeper and put your new bushings in carefully with a press. I don't think replacement ball joints are available - hence the new control arms. If anyone knows that they are - please post up on how to obtain them. I will probably give this a shot once we get heat in the garage. Once again, great job. Enjoy the ride!

Special thanks to our user jzz30: great job! Tools needed: Sockets 14,17,19,22mm. Box wrenches of the smaller three and a rachet for those sizes in 1/2inch and 3/8 are helpful. And balljoint puller (1and3/8 inch or 35mm gap and not taller than 6inches.) absolutely necessary. ******************************************************** Jack up the car and place it on jack stands. Remove wheel and then take off the swaybar mount (14mm, and 6mm?hex wrench. May be a 5mm). ******************************************************** Take lower shock mounting bolt off (17 or 19mm I forgot) and disconnect shock from arm. Then push the shock back and forth to access the two bolts that hold that bracket on(14mm) taking this bracket off allows more room for the ball joint puller. If it fits with it on then no need to take it off. ******************************************************** Remove clip and nut(22mm) at the ball joint. Use the ballpuller to disconnect the arm from the knuckle. ******************************************************** Next clean the arm bolts where there is a dial. Then mark it so that the can be replaced in the same place.( The bolts are cams and are used for allignment). Use the 22mm to take off the bolts and the arm should come out. ******************************************************** Take off the lower arm bushing stopper (a round disk of rubber) and put it on the new arm. ******************************************************** Replace in the order taken off torque with the following: 106ft lbs for shock bolt and nut(just the nut actually) 106 ft lbs for the shock bracket if taken off 107ft lbs for the ball joint (don’t forget the clip) 47 ft lbs for the swaybar mount 166 ft lbs for the arm bolts - That is done last because the suspension needs to set so bring the car back down on its wheels and bounce it up and down (this i didnt do but the manual demands for it). Then jack it back up. Put it on stands. From there, jack up the suspension arm (under the ball joint works best) and simulate a suspension arm height of when the car is on the ground and then align the marks on the cam and tighten the nut to 166ft lbs. ******************************************************** The above was written by jzz30 - pics and text organized by AWJ. Follow along in the SC gallery starting at page 12. Page 12 SC photo gallery

That is the filter I had on my 93. B)