AWJ

You have a few options. Usually when I blow a stock component - I just get the whole system redone. Haven't had a stock component go out on any of the lexus before though. Try e-bay or www.taprecycling.com to locate a parts - then there is the old google fall back. I do have a component Diamond Audio set from my 1993 SC that I removed after the accident. 4" mids for the doors and two tweets with crossovers. They sounded very good in that car. Shouldn't be too hard of an install but with limited car stereo experience myself, I'm not sure how to go about it. I know I pulled the wires off the crossover and the speakers leads came from that crossover. Shoot me a pm if you're interested.

Hi Rick, Due to the overall similarity in the vehicles - jza80 and jzz30, I would be extremely surprised if the parts did not bolt right up. I used Centric brand (Sumitomo) cross slotted rotors and Supra TT OEM (Sumitomo) calipers up front on my jzz31. They should bolt right up on existing mounts.

Along those lines, the brake light bulb should have two filaments in it as well. The second filament comes on for the brake signal. Make sure you have the right bulb in there.

The wheels should fit. 114.3*5 lug pattern. Not sure about offset - but as long as you are running a stock break and suspension, should work.

Well happy turkey day to you too.

It's turkey day! Here in the states at least. Enjoy!!

I didn't know they were that high. You might be able to find seats from a slavage car in good shape or elsewhere used but in good shape for that price. Not sure though. Either way, the Katzkin stuff is good. I'd think you'd be happy if you did it.

I take it the fuel gauge is working correctly? If not, then the fuel gage sender may be at fault. If so, then most likely there is an electrical failure. Can't really explain all of what to troubleshoot. Might have to pull the gauge pod or the sender cap from the tank (trunk side) and make sure everything is working correctly mechanically and electrically. Maybe a short, maybe mechanical issue.

Intrax may not be the best for the money. I had them back in the day on another car - they were okay. It is recommended to change the shocks as well when lowering a vehicle. Other SC owners have had great results with the Eibach/KYB AGX combo. H&R makes good product. Then there are coil over systems from JIC and Tein as well as many others. To drop 1.5 you may need to get a coil over system.

The DaveH budget turbo.... Dave "Turbo" Henry... Has developed a slightly more wallet freindly set-up. He came by once to talk about it but that post was lost in our recent site failure. So here we go. Some statements can be seen at www.supraforums.com from people that have it. Dave is a stand up guy and has one fast NA-t. Just another turbo option for ya. Dave's kit

You should blur our your liscense plate number for future pictures just to be on the safe side. A couple borla cans with a custom pipe job will do the trick. I like greddy and have had good experiences on several vehicles with it. Blitz Nur Spec is popular - again just buy the cans and have a shop run some pipe. Others: Apexi JIC L-Tuned ... there's more.

I've heard good things about Katzkin - but that price seems a little high. I'd find the product on line and do the labor myself. Unless you are dead set against doing the work yourself.

So, you're in the Bluegrass eh? Small world. I was quoted 600$ for the 80,000mile tune up by a dealer out of Cincy. How much exactly are you being charged and what parts are you getting. It should not be anywhere over 300$ or so for everything. Unless you are going above and beyond.

A bulb is out.

Ouch... good read.

Wich SC do you have? The SC400 stopped production in 2000. The only SC available for the '02 model year is the SC430 hardtop convertible. Is this the one you mean? If so, parts will not be easy or cheap to come by. Try to find the guy that stole them from it... ;) You could try www.taprecycling.com - Good luck.

Don't forget about Wald now.

Never had a problem with fram.

We should take this to pm or msn. I'll message you tomorrow evening. I should be getting to bed. But I think you're selling the na-t short. Sorry to hack, but when you hit 18 to 20 psi at 10:1 on that GE with a good tune, you will be looking back the supra TT. Unless it is APU.

Yea ... um, the second one. Not that you have to, but that would be bad @$$. Tubular header, t4 flange, indy style collector - oh man... stainless steel... mmmmm Sorry about the thread high jack, captpaul. So the jury is out on wether or not the car is good for winter. I say buy it. You won't regret it. After you get rid of the run flats. Actually, have the dealer put some traditional radials on it for you. Then buy it. ;)

2/3 quart would make me want to watch a little but may not be a problem. Just check periodically for the first few months and see what ya got. Change the drain plug gasket while you're at it. Slow little meaningless drip can add up over time.

Veilside Executive

So watcha gettin' eh?

Your PM motivated me to check the manual. Remove your radiator cap. Remove the water filler plug from the water inlet housing (looks to be located just about dead middle front of the motor before the intake manifold plenum). Loosen 3 drain plugs - one on the driver side front of the radiator, one beneath the driver side exhaust manifold (mid-block or so) and one just beneath the T-stat (possibly) or underneath the water inlet housing. These are approximate locations - I'm looking the the 1995 factory service manual and the drawings are not precise as well as the fact that I have not done any work on the 1uz. I'd scan it but my scanner is busted. Basically, just look around those areas I've mentioned and you'll find them. The drain bolt on the block needs to be torqued to 13 newton meters or 9 foot pounds. Close the others and refill. I'd recommend running the car for a few minutes with the heater on full blast before draining - then shut the car off with heater left on. Refill and start the car again with heater on full blast. This should help to keep from air getting trapped. Good luck.

Not sure on that one. On the SC300 the drain is on the driver side bottom of the radiator. (If I recall correctly from this summer.) But I hear you V8 guys don't have a drain on the radiator. Someone else will have to breif you on that one. I'll check the manual if I get a chance.