AWJ

The cheapest I found from a dealership for the 80k service was $600. I'll just buy the parts and do it myself.

You can't just swap the tranny. It's an auto and the computer is involved. You might be able to swap the computers too, but then there is the vvt-i thing. I doubt it will make your car any faster.

I've heard good things about the american stitches wheels. A little too pricey though, but you get what you pay for.

Yea... The ride is just fine in my opinion.

How many months has it been? Do you change the air filter regularly?

Neither speach will be necessary. Lets not go south from here. As far as I know - we have open diffy's. That doesn't mean both wheels will not burn if the conditions are right.

Any dealership, e-bay, our buy sell forum, or on the uk site - there is an approved vendor by the name of Midas that sells them as well.

500 bones? Oh man.

I'd start with pcv valves and the charcoal canister and go from there. Maybe you have an OBD2 car because I don't see that code in my manuals. What year is your car? There is a link to an alldata site that has that info somewhere. I'll see if I can find it.

INET? Not me. I would trust the dealer to a point. If it says the work was done - it probably was? Lastly, not really. There was some rumor about a sticker. But I've never seen one. Short of popping off the timing cover and looking for yourself, I don't know of any way to tell the condition of the timing belt. Manufacturer intervals are 80k and 160k and every 80k after that.

No, not really. 1995+ model year tailights can be "cleared". I guess. If that is your thing. Our search function is getting to be a handy tool. Check it out: http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...&f=3&t=1010&hl=

There used to be a user out there by the handle Emerald. In cahoots with a shop called Import Toys. They offered carbon fiber lay-up replacements. These pieces looked good in pictures. I tried to get some last year with no success. Yoo still out there Em? I personally like the wood. There are stick on kits out there with faux wood and carbon fiber and aluminum. Would I stick those in my car? NO. It would be interesting to see brushed aluminum or carbon fiber. I was !Removed! around last summer during an electrical install in my coupe and tried to pull the furthest passenger side piece of wood. Wound up cracking the tab on the vent and promptly stopped and reversed the process. I didn't have the manuals with me. They do come out, how easy - IMO, not very easy. At least not without the risk of breaking a piece of plastic or worse yet, the wood. In short, I'm happy with the wood.

Oh wow... Is that the whistler I've been reading about? Looks very good my man... Keep us posted. I might have to take a peep in person next time I'm up there. If you're around.

I didn't notice that when I did mine. I feel the two crush washers and sufficient torque will ensure that the lines do not come out. I try to check my lines though as often as possible. After I did the job. I thought you were going to mention the flare on the hard line not fitting the nut off the SS line. That is the problem I had. I had to cut the old hard line and use a compression fitting to rig up a flare that would work from the auto parts store. It hasn't leaked yet. But I check it a lot. Some people just file the stock flare off the hard line down until it does fit in the nut. Other people don't have this problem I guess. I used BF Goodrich Supra TT Spec lines.

Welcome! You won't be unhappy with an SC. I'll let some other guys answer the rest of your questions.

I saw the tubular header on their web-site. I assume it has been released or is available. I have an old dinosaur log manifold and the turbo is internally gated. I am interested in picking up a tubular header in the future but that will be a little while. She still pulls real good - I suppose once I'm tired with the current set-up I'll go on. I want to pick up a GS300 to put this set-up on actually. I never was able to get a hold of Toyomoto on the phone. They did call me back once, but of course, I wasn't available.

The dealer will charge more. The V8 typically runs a little higher because it will use more spark plugs at a time, maybe longer belts - and it's the top model. 800$ for 80k and 160k service is possible. Maybe more in some places maybe less. The 80 and 150k is the major service - belts, water pump, etc. Lexus recommends these intervals. Oil changes and other stuff - depends on where you go and what type of oil used, I guess. Replacement parts can be pricey too. All worth it if you ask me.

Yea, I can't remember the name - PHR (Power House) maybe. Clint Pohler and company - or the company that did his swaps.

The gated shifter thing probably won't work without a complete tranny/computer change. The airbag thing might work though. Need to verify that though. If the plugs are the same, it should work. You'd have to call Lexus on that one. Start with a local dealer parts dept. first.

You want turbo. Sound Performance Rollhard Performance Factory DaveH the guys in texas Boostlogic The classifieds at www.supraforums.com

Supra TT. exhaust - search google and here greddy mx apexi JIC Borla mid pipe delete Suspension kyb agx tockico blues supra tt oem - if you use supra spec suspenison parts you must match shocks and springs not a bad idea to do bushings as well You could fit 20" wheels on there if you wanted. 18's look great and drive great. 17's do equally as well. Stock supra TT wheels are awesome. Staggered set-up 8.5 up front and 9 in back, great handling. You'll want +38 offset or more. I have a cheap custom short throw shifter I haven't installed yet I found on e-bay. Maybe not the best. There is a TRD short shifter for the na supra 5 speed that would work as well. Maybe others. I'm satisfied with the stock shifter so I might get rid of mine. 5 speed SC400 - maybe, not worth it. SC400 to 300 swap. What for? Single turbo stock SC motor hauls major butt. or swap with the supra TT motor. This is expensive stuff.

Bad ground. It went away because the actuator in the solenoid spun. It made good contact in a certain position. Now it's back on it's low side. I'll bet.

The contacts in the starter solenoid are gone or will be soon. Eventually, the car won't start at all. I don't have the part number. Fairly common failure. You can buy the contacts, pull the starter, disassemble the solenoid and replace the contacts. Or take it to a starter/alternator rebuild place and they'll do it. I paid 15$ to fix my starter on the 93 with a warranty when Lexus wanted 800$ for a new starter.

Just picked up 20 toyota filters myself.