AWJ

Labor is anywhere from 60$ to 90$ an hour typically. You will need the clutch pedal - I'd recommend the smaller brake pedal that typically comes with most manual cars. I had a manual tranny conversion on a different car and the automatic brake pedal was left on - it was hard to avoid hitting the brake pedal when clutching - but that could be handy too for some applications. You will need the cylinder, the tranny cooler blocked off, the custom housing adapter (I posted a thread on where to locate that a couple weeks ago) and other adapting equipment. I would geustimate another 1000$ to 2000$ for those parts depending on where and how you get them. You will also need to get a signal to fool the ecu. I have heard of people using a sensor to read off of the second gear switch that fools the computer into thinking it is auto. But I have no idea how that works. Figure another 1,000$ for that set-up and finding someone skilled enough to do it. Could be done for maybe 4g's if labor is free and maybe less (maybe more) for a used w58 or 154 (you might want to try the 154 - I've heard it is a little stronger.)

The crank probably would. Anything over 500 is going to warrant the consideration of taking the head off and doing some tinkering. It is just plain good measure. I always recommend starting small - you know 350 rwhp. (If that is considered small - more than most sports at the wheels)

It is found in the how to's link of our faq. Cupholder

Going from auto to manual is no small feat. A w58 is going to be much cheaper than a getrag and easier. You will pay dearly for the labor alone.

Twin/single - if your going custom on the ge - just do a single. Most twin turbo guys switch to single anyways for points that are too detailed to cover in one post. After a lot of research - you'll see that for most applications, a properly sized single will out do most twins for the money. But twins are cool. Just more expensive - think almost double everything for most powerplants. The ge is a blessing in that it is an inline - much more friendly. You want to hit the bottle too? Wow, a whole new problem set. Not at all impossible but that changes the set-up. Understand the turbo before thinking about juicing it. 1,000 hp on stock bottom end? No way. You'd be lucky to hit 600. But not that lucky. It has been done. But heads lift, bearings spin, trannies shred - it all depends on boost, flow, and a/r. Then there is the driver and tuning equation. Lots of stuff my man. Feel free to ask more specific questions in another thread. Maybe I'll start some in the future, or if you like - please feel free. We have a couple other guys here that know turbo and motors much better than myself. I'm waiting for them to chime in as well. One good book to start with - Maximum Boost by Corky Bell Read it - as many times as it takes. Keep it. Worship it. Thanks Lextreme.

I got that footage too. I also have alot more. The car in that particular clip is one of Clint Pohlers. It is that video or another one - you can hear the passenger say - "Holy *BLEEP* Clint!" Anyways, there is no real way to post it unless you copy the target and paste it in a thread. This will allow others to download the clip from that link via right click - save as. A long time ago, I posted a 940hp dyno pull of Ebanks car in the general discussion forum. You might be able to find it in a search if you are interested. I think I put some other hot targets as well up, but surely, they are dead now days.

Got a few of those layin' round. Very handy to have.

The beach. That would be nice right about now....

Just hang in there. I remember when mine was being trucked in. That was interesting. Congrats on the acquisition. B)

Not sure on that one - getting the retainer clips off that is. I'm pulling my entire front end off the car off sometime soon - so if someone doesn't have something sooner - stay tuned. It seems plain to me that cheap badges would be plastic. But the OEM and high priced ones had better be metal.

Got your pm. I will try to send you the procedure on Saturday. It is not available currently. There have been a few tests on the SC400 intake induction OEM and aftermarket. It was found that any modification of the tubing caused a reduction in torque. In fact, for best performance, the stock airbox was modified. It is called the BFI and has been discussed here in the past. There should be link in the faq. It was developed (at least in testing and invention) by a guy in Australia. Peter Scott I think. That is your best bang for the buck. I will have to consult the manuals to get the location of the fuel filter unless someone else here knows off hand. Your motor and all lexus motors (I think) use belts. Your timing belt is behind the serpentine belt and timing cover. I though I posted a pic from the FSM in one of our gallerys but I can't find it, so maybe I didn't. All I could find was the 2jz pic. I'll be in touch. Good luck.

Are they really plastic? I thought for sure they are metal.... Can someone verify?

The factory OEM pistons are indeed forged and resin coated. I know this as fact in the 2jz-ge inline six from 1992 to 1997. Anything above and beyond that, I'm not sure on. But think they are forged pistons into the the last model year. There is a performance specs. thread pinned up there that has all the details of the 1993 SC300 that basically holds true across all model years with the exception of a few body style que changes, creature comfort option addtions, and the introduction of vvt-i in 1998. Here is an excerpt:

Good link there. I'm going to stick it in the faq.

Congratulations and enjoy. Make sure you take care of the oil changes on that motor on schedule. You shouldn't have any problems if you do.

This is what we ecourage here at this site. This is what we want. This is what I want. Step by steps. Detailed pics. Feel free to post pictures and info here in this forum, but we really like complete threads for our workshop forum - that is where we want the do it yourself info with details and pics. Feel free to contribute however you see fit to either forum. Thanks for the offer K9crew. I look forward to seeing it as well as many others, I'm sure. Good luck on the job.

Sounds like a great addition to the workshop if I do say so myself.

Any good hobby shop should be able to procure it in a spray can. I'd recommend some clear coat too. As well as surface treating the parts before painting.

Old and loose / worn connections.

There is a 15A radio and lighter fuse (that's two different fuses) in the fuse box on the left lower side of the driver side compartment. You'll have to pull the carpet back a little bit to get at it. Remove the cover - small rectangular piece. On the inside of the cover is a location chart. Check those two fuses, replace them if blown. The root cause might be a bad ground off the radio, cigarette lighter or either of those circuits off the fuse box. Good luck.

Low grade gas could very well be the cause of the intermittent mil.

I know of a 1995 Red SC400 in EXCELLENT condition for sale in the New York area. Contact myself or Lex Luthor for details. It is his car and it is immaculate. He is asking the high side of 13g's. Definitely a great car for great price.

I don't know. I found mine on Autotrader.

I would like to do carbon fiber. But I will probably just find some maple and try to match it. Or use the black, textured abs that matches the rest of the console surround. I will do it myself. I paid a decent amount for the car. It was in great shape and already turboed. Tuned by Lance at Toyomoto. But she will need a retune for next season.

I have an autometer phantom boost gauge in the glovebox. There is an air/fuel ratio display to the left of it in the box too. The led's are my stealth K40 display. The piezo speakers are behind the consol surround and the switch is on the kick pannel. Closest is my boost controller wich is all I really need on the fly with a high boost/low boost selector and individual knob adjusments as well as peak/hold boost display in kg/cm^2. I plan to go with a Defi link daisy chain system in the future with 3 gauges custom fabbed into the center vents.