AWJ

Great work, again my friend. You have mail.

I've heard bad things about the HKS filter elements coming apart and getting in undesirable places. If you want a cone, use a k and n style paper element on the end of your tubing no matter which manufacturer you choose. I have a blitz element coming off of the maf on my car with an adapter piece. The filter is similar in design to the k&n with a heavy paper element, ribs and reinforcement. Do a search here for BFI and you will find that the stock air box can be modified and actually produces the best gains if all else is stock.

30 weight is what is recommended for your car. 5 or 10. I don't know what will happen running 40 - but I wouldn't. It might be just fine. I run mobile 1 5 or 10-30. Although I've been checking out some other options after some input on this site.

There are terms more accurate than lag, like flow chart, efficiency range, surge line, a/r ratio, shaft size, turbine/compressor size, housing size, bearing type, porting, gating, venting, max boost threshold, and much more. These are things that will contribute to the online effect of the turbo and boost. I really feel that term lag is a poor descriptor. Of course, a turbo runs of exhaust gas. A supercharger is linear and driven off the crank with all the parasitic and inefficient things that go with it. There are positives and negatives to both. I think if the research is done, one will find that a turbo is the option to go with - especially with our motor. In my opinion, turbo is always the option to go with no matter what the application is. A turbo or two can always go bigger and badder.

That is very nice. I see you put instructions in as the titles. If you don't mind and have some time, you could do a little write up on the job and send it to me. I will post it in our workshop tutorials. All credit will go to your user name. PM me for e-mail address. You can type it in word if you like. Or I can take the text from your pictures and use img links to document it in one thread for you there. I will put a link to it in the faq. Just let me know how you would like to do it. Great work. Is that part the lexus control arm? Or did you use the Supra arms? Looks very good. Bubbles, looks like the new piece has a new ball joint.

Lag is a matter of perspective. The inline six begs for a turbo. Turbo's can be sized and specified to respond however the application is desired. My car has a t3/t4 that starts boosting around 2k hits full at 3,500 and pulls strong to 6. Depending on controller settings and how hard the accelerator is hit. Carry boost through the shift - there is just much more potential to the turbo. If a SC is really desired - by all means go for it. But I don't recommend it.

Sounds like an open connection. If you are any good with a meter - check it out in the plug harness side and light side. Make sure your bulbs are okay. Make sure the plug goes in well. Don't know what else to tell ya. The bass may be rattling the lose connection. Or things may have been shaken up. You'll have to get in there and do some operation. Or try a new one.

My car did that a couple times last year after we first bought it. The last time it did it - I cleaned the terminals up real well (even thought they didn't look too bad) - cleaned the main cables as well. Jumped it, let it idle a while, took for a spirited drive, let it idle down and it hasn't happened again.

Lexus recommends 80k and 160k for the timing belt and related items.

The trac system operates with a secondary butterfly in the throttle body and abs combination. This could be related to your issue. I'd only be guessing though. Perhaps Lextech might have some input. The actual problem could be a combination of items.

I'll have to read some labels I think. Guess I'm off on this. I'll check it out. Silica does clump together over time in tight passages and is very abrasive. I didn't even realize there was silica in the green either. I have to take back what I have typed previously. Lextech - looks to be correct. I'll follow up.

That seems a bit steep for stock spec. tires. Are these going on the stock 16" wheels? I have paid 300$ for 17*8 kuhmo ecsta supra (different car) - I have also paid the same price for 18* staggered set-up Hankook Ventus (Lexus) tires. I paid 200$ for 15" dunlop sd snow tires (different car). I'd recommend checking a few other places. If you are running the stock size 16" wheels, I wouldn't expect to pay much over 400$ for the tires, mounting and balancing. Unless things are a lot more expensive in your area. There should be a good thread explaining tires in our wheel and tires forum by Sadistic. He might chime in here as well. I have had good experiences buying tires online at tirerack.com.

Welcome to the club. Thanks for the info. I was making a parallel with the red stuff and dexcool. Perhaps the silica thing is the culprit. I didn't realize that stuff was in the dexcool. Never used that stuff either. Perhaps I got a little carried away there. All input is appreciated. We use silica as filler in our epoxy systems at work. It tears up case hardened, nickel plated, high grades steel in a matter of months. I can't believe they would put that in antifreeze. That does explain it though.

If you are any good with soldering, you might be able to hardwire it all back together. I haven't been in there though. Might be worth a shot. But 70$ isn't really that bad. I paid 185$ for a freakin driver side master power window control switch for a freakin honda once. Would have looked for a deal but the window was stuck down and I didn't have any other option.

You guys don't have an impact wrench? The higher the ratio, the slower the car is going to be out of the whole. The torque kick lunge feeling comes with the lower ratio. Low ratio - more seat slam lower top speed. Higher ratio - less seat slam higher top speed. If you go changing the differential - you will also have speedometer accuracy problems. But that can be dealt with as well with some kind of sensor trick using the TT sensor or something. I forgot the details. I would definitely pay a reputable performance shop to do this job if I wanted it done right. A stall torque converter is also worth considering - for the automatic guys. Info on the supra diffy can be found at supraforums. I'll see if I can dig some up later.

I'm not familiar with the 1uz. Just restating what the factory service manual says in plain print in front of me. I don't know where the drain !Removed! is - I was guessing by looking at the poor picture in front of me. I agree, the old coolant should be completely flushed if changing types. I also recommend flushing it once a year. This can be done easily enough with a kit and a garden hose or the flush bottles and pure water. Or take it to a shop for a pressure flush. I usually stand with the tech when they do the work though. The only thing the manuals state that must be used is Ethylene-Glycol anitfreeze. Color or manufacturer has nothing to do with it. Glycol based antifreeze is glycol based antifreeze. Color does not matter. I have not had a single problem with green prestone antifreeze. Neither have others. I have seen head gaskets go on motors with this red-envornmentally safe stuff. I'm a purist. Antifreeze should be green. And it will be in my cars. I'm not sure that if the green stuff gets topped over the toyota red - that there is going to be a world of problems though. It will look pretty nasty. Thats about it. Tha manual does state - do not use alcohol based coolant or pure water. That's all about that.

Wick: I could send you ten for 50$. But that is the best I could really do. We can do COD if you are really interested. PM me if so. Lextech: It never ceases to amaze what dealerships do to make a buck. I know they are business and need to meet overhead and then eat and feed their children but c'mon. When is enough, enough? Anyways, thanks for that tid bit of info. This is becoming quite an interesting thread. I appreciate everyone's input here. I might put the link in the faq if I remember to. Happy oil changes.

That is a cloudy subject there. If I were going to change the diffy, I would want some sort of limited slip. Apperently, the supra TT diffy's are torsen. The supra TT diffy(s) is rumored to fit into the (x)zz3(x) models. There are two types, the auto and the manual. The auto is rumored to bolt right in pumpkin and all. But I have heard unconfirmed that there is difficulty with the shafts on one end or the other. Possibly difficulty with mounts as well. I don't know. The TT manual diffy will work but will require the driveshaft flange to be modified some how. I think the half's will also need some sort of modification/fabrication. Then there are other units like the TRD piece made for the soarer. I think it can be found through one of the links in the faq. This is just the gears, so there would need to be alittle operation there and if things are not lined up or shimmed properly - there could be problems. I've never done anything like that so I have no clue to the details. I hear Kaaz might make something also. 50$??? Not for the SC. Sorry. Expect about 200$ or so for a used unit somewhere and up to 1500$ for a new one from somewhere like Qauife or the sort.

For those of you who were asking or are curious. There is a company out there in Oz - Australia that is, that offers some conversion pieces. Engine/tranny computer issues would need to be determined. But there is the start. I'd say they would be good to contact for those interested. Check out some of their hot rods - WOW! Bellhousing conversion stuff - see AP 15 Their home page - 3000 hp street rod??? I have no experience or affiliation with this company. But they have a lot of applications and they look like they know what is up.

I do believe the going consensus is yes. As long as you are all stock everywhere else concerning brakes and suspension. Otherwise, clearance issues will have to be checked for.

Sorry. Missed the question I guess. I can't give an exact answer because I just plain don't know, but I can speculate. It depends on where these spacers are being installed. We have a throttle body that bolts into a y split type (prerunner - I'll call it). From the prerunner we go into the upper intak manifold consisting of the plenum, ACIS valve, and beginning runners. Then we have the lower intake that bolts into the head. The naturally aspirated 2jz-ge features this long runner intake manifold. It is touted to produce nice low end torque. As rpms increase - this ACIS valve consisting of a butterfly style flap - opens and allows for an enhanced upper end performance by opening up the plenum and attempting to equalize flow through out. As I understand it. Now - where would this spacer go? As long and developed as the NA 2jz motor intake manifold is, I don't expect much gain to be realized by making it any longer. Putting a spacer at the head is a bad idea IMO. Putting a spacer between the upper and lower intake manifold is not a very good idea either in my opinion. It might be possible to put one between the prerunner and the upper intake manifold. Likewise, it might be possible to put a spacer where the throttle body meets the pre runner. This is common in Mustang and other V8 circles and referred to as a throttle body spacer. This piece alone is not going to do much. To realize full benefits of this peice on a naturally aspirated motor - one would need to have high flow headers, porting, cams, timing tweaks, and anything else that would compliment. Of course tuning is going to be key. Will this piece give your NA 2jz 8 horsepower? I would be extremely suprised if it did. I don't think the factory design can be much improved upon aside from putting a turbo on it and going with the side draft pressure chamber plenum a la gte. Even then - this intake work is un-necessary in my opinion unless significant power is being considered - i.e. over 600 horsies. I can go on all day. I'll stop now though. I am by no means any authority figure on this subject. Dyno charts are the proof. If there is a dyno showing that this spacer gives the 2j 8 ponies without any other changes then I will take it all back. But I don't think it will do much of anything if not reduce low end performance. It might give a little kick at 5,500 rpm. Not enough to justify the loss IMO. I would like to see someone try it though and show the results. I would be pleasantly surprised to see a nice gain. At 100$ - it is a no harm, no foul kind of thing. I know LL has some experience with this stuff - maybe he can chime in as well.

Azev makes a wheel very similar to that too I think. As well as Volk and probably a few others.

The look I like is with the screen mounted in the 2 din location. I think Lex Luther has or had one in one of his SC's - there are a few around. It is truly difficult to make an aftermarket unit look at home in the console there. I honestly prefer the stock head in appearance to most alternatives out there. I had a jvc head (or was it pioneer - gonna have to go look through the boxes of old stuff) in the 93.

I'm going with a carbon fiber theme I think. I'd like to see carbon fiber box covers for things under the hood - i.e. fuse box covers, the cruise control actuator cover, fan shroud, fan even, CF valve covers - you name it.

Well I was going to be conservative. I needed a drain plug gasket. Found a deal. Bought 5 of them and then 20 toyota oil filters too. Then I found out that there was a carbon fiber front end from C-wings. Yup... Had to do it. Along with the matching CF hood. They are backorder though. I got some low boy ramps too. I need to get a heater for the garage as well. Then I'm going to give her bay a real good one over. Turbo side first. No new parts (aside from seals and gaskets, plugs n stuff), just a serious overhaul and clean up. If I have time before tuner bash - I'll do the intake side too. I need to rewire the evasion equipment as well. So I spoiled my car for Christmas. My old lady is a little jealous. But Santa has a couple other tricks up his sleeve.