AWJ

264 and up cams are available but are usually custom regrind. The only motors I've seen with worked cams were turbo. There are a few NA worked cammed motors around though. Not sure what lift and duration would be better though.

To modify the ecu would likely void any warranty. I don't know of any ecu mods available for the sc430 though.

I can't really say anything either way. I have no experience with the 8500 deally. I do know that I've had horrible experiences with cheaper detectors. K40 is stealth install and works for me. V1 is good, aparently, the 8500 has some good reviews as well. If you want this stealth type install, it involves the disassembly of the radar unit, locating the sensing equipment in the correct location, and then locating the display equipment in the location of your choice. Lots of custom fabbing, the k40 comes to you in a package that allows for this easily. The others are self contained units. anything is possible, but if you don't have the know how, then it will cost a lot for talented labor. That said, any specialty audio/electronics shop should be able to fab up what it is that you desire. I know k40 and valentine both offer these "stealth" style radar detectors. Best of luck. Let us know what you find - or if anyone has any more info - post away.

I take it you checked the battery already. If the battery doesn't hold charge, the alternator can be suspect. If you hear only a clicking when you try to start and know the battery is ok, perhaps you may suspect the contacts in the solenoid have worn too far - wich is not unlikely. Then you get into more developed problems if the car is still not even starting. Your scan tool may be doing that for a number of reasons: - it may not be compatible with the Lexus dlc's - the cable might be bad - the dlc in you are using may have a problem - there is some procedural error ocurring Oh - I moved your thread too, some RX guys might have some better info for ya. Good luck and welcome to the USLOC.

Okay, 1992 has 3 o^2 sensors. Two in the exhaust manifold (should be top side) and one after the pre cats and before the main cat if I recall correctly. I'll need to verify. Just take your time with it. Check www.mkiv.com - check the factory service manual links and find the naturally aspriated or non turbo 2jz-ge info. This should help you out until you can find a copy of the manuals for yourself.

The factory alarm system does two things. Disables the starter if a potential intruder sets it off. If the car is equipped with nakamichi items - specifically head unit, the car sound system will cease to work and the car will not start if the head unit is tampered with incorrectly. Basically, if the door or trunk is forced open while the anti-theft system is enabled, or the head unit is screwed with, the car will not start until the situation is corrected. I have a better description at the house I can post up later.

So how may we help you from here? Are you set? Cars that use the same brakes - mkiv non turbo supra. Not sure about any others.

That's the old Wiz car. That thing went through hell.

What year is it? http://mkiv.com/manual/1995_electrical_man.../95elec_082.JPG

That is a hard one to answer. There are probably a few different opinions. I don't have any off hand for the 400. Check out our faq, the first link should be able to hook you up with a large amount of information.

Oh yea, that too.

Seen it, maybe it was a photoshop. Don't remember - looked like !Removed! though. In my humble opinion.

I used to send out that stuff and still do for what I have digitized. But my scanner is done for. Unless someone else can do it for ya. I know at least one member here has done it before.

Ya gotta swap it man. The TT 6 speed is called the getrag or gertrag (gertrude?) is it a ZF tranny? Anyways, yea it works. Our member quickturbo is just the most recent guy I know of to do it. Lots - err, at least a few people have done it. Not to say going from auto to manual will be a fun thing to do. If it's an auto car with lots of power, I'd do a th400.

wah? nu uuuuu. :P There is too, I seen it.

I hear ya. To be blunt - most failures I have heard about occur from an error on install or tuning. I.E. some tech in a hurry forgets to tighten rod end cap bolt, rod end cap bolt backs out, hits inner block, shears head, jams journal and bearing, crank seizes, crank snaps, then the chain reaction through the line. Nasty, nasty stuff. Better yet, some Jack Squat drops a shim or something in a cylinder while the head is off during the lowering of compression with a new hg job. Shim binds piston, rod breaks, punches 4 holes in the block and oil pan. Shrapnel through the turbine - vital life juice everywhere. The more common failure mode on a turbo job done right (or maybe just not yet failed) with these SC's is the shredded tranny syndrome. There have been speculated issues with the newer cranks (specification and tolerance) and bearings or possibly the block and journals - being off enough to stop the motor and cause damage. Nothing verified yet. I currently have my eye on a long block taughted to hold 900+ hp if myself and the potential seller can work something out - we will see where these things break at. As far as my set-up, not one problem as of yet other than typical 10 year old car stuff that I have been going through and doing maintenance and replace/upgrades on. The oil pan could probably use a re-seal - and I might suspect there is oil leaking past the distributor. These are things I would call very minor. Boost does tend to creep on me though and I may have to pull the turbo and check the gate on her. I plan to tear into her pretty soon. The head stays on this time around though fellas. Every time (not everytime) someone pulls the head off their turbo SC, their seems to follow complications.

Hmm, oh yea - it could be your shocks. ;)

Excellent! Thanks for the update. If solenoids didn't go bad - my life would be much easier.

Yea, it is a upper or lower bushing or ball joint or combination of them.

I'd save myself the trouble and run an auxillary switch or wire directly into the power lead for the running lights or something like that. You should use a relay. But I'm not real good with that stuff so don't ask. I could figure it out if I had it in front of me but otherwise is just guessing. I'm sure there is something out there on line - but not sure if the steering column disassembly is. I need to get my scanner working again.

If you want to blow it up - drop something in it while the head is off or something. Suck something through the throttle body. Advance the timing until it sounds like Kosovo. Don't tighten critical bolts on a rebuild or modification. And lastly - hit 25 psi with naws. That ought ta do it. Honestly, if the price is right, 200k miles don't scare me away. The motor potentially can last 1 million miles or something was the exagerated claim I heard once. Frankly, I don't doubt it.

you can say that again. I could eat off that.

I have 1 and 2 as well. Very cool stuff.

I think anything outside k40 or v1 is not worth it. I like my k40 and it has worked very well. But I hear v1 is best and it probably is.

Two men walked into a bar. The third one ducked. Yakka, yakka, yakkka..... <_< ;)