larryp

May need to bleed brake lines - you may have air in the lines causing a soft pedal. Check pads at same time.

There is a sight glass on the receiver/dryer behind the passenger headlight. If you don't have the gauges that an AC shop would use you can check the sight glass for the presence of bubbles. Once all bubbles have disappeared, stop. Do not continue adding or you'll overdo it and it won't blow as cold. Once you get enough pressure in the system the compressor will start up - assuming it's not locked up. If it's locked up the AC light on the climate control panel will be blinking. If you have a leak, you'll know in a couple of days. Has your system been converted to R134a?

The high pressure side is behind the passenger headlight. There are 2 fittings near the firewall and both are low pressure. It's easy to assume one is high and one is low. "Finishing the conversion" simply means that adding a 134a fitting on the high pressure side ($3-5). Without attaching gauges to correct outlets they would not have gotten good readings on pressure. Does that mean you don't have a problem with air duct control? Is it all fixed?

Run it till it stops. The AC light will start blinking when its had enough :cries:

About 2-3 weeks before my compressor locked up it started whining. Wasn't sure what it was at first but tracked it to the AC compressor. Sounds like the whine of a jet engine and varies with RPM.

Check out previous post on this subject: http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...hl=techinfo.com Several of us have used lexus.techinfo.com and are very pleased with the results. :D

Congratulations and welcome to the Lexus family.

Regularly get 20 mpg on combined driving. Get 25-26 on the highway. :D 91LS

Wow. I didn't know my 91 even had a clock! ;) Is it supposed to display on that blacked-out LCD screen in the center console? Sorry for interrupting, i couldn't resist. :chairshot: many of us still haven't fixed the climate display. I've never seen what's on the display - been burned out ever since i got the car.

Problem in speed sensor circuit. Could be speed sensor or ECU. :( Manual also lists skipping teeth of timing belt as possible cause.

Both codes refer to main o2 sensor - "open or short in main o2 sensor circuit" or faulty main o2 sensor. There are other possibilities, but that is the most likely cause.

Need to pull the trouble code that is turning on the check engine light. There are posts here that describe how to do this. Once we have the code we can provide guidance (opinions). It could be many different things: EFI system, EC system, etc. Welcome to LOC!

No difference in length. Lexus usually does a coach edition preceding a model change. Most recently with the RX300. The new owner also got a set of Coach luggage. They call it coach leather but it probably came from the same cow as the standard leather.

I'm sure you've done this but if not..... Swap batteries out of another vehicle and try to crank. If the battery is weak or has a dead cell you'll get the same symptoms.

Suggest you enable light and diagnose problem based upon code given. :whistles: If you're running the high octane already, you have another issue that may be identified by the trouble code.

You can remove the blower motor without removing the entire blower/evaporator unit which should save some time. :) Removing the whole unit is a pain. You'll have to remove the panels on the passenger side and unplug some wiring harnesses to gain access but there are screws on the bottom of the unit that will allow you to drop the motor out of the unit.

Please just wear your belt and the problem will be solved. In that split second before an accident when you say oh sh...., it's too late to decide to buckle-up. :chairshot:

Archie Replaced mine last year. You don't need to pull radiator - you can get it from underneath. I also replaced PS pump at same time cause it was leaking - probably causing premature failure of the alternator. I'd get a second opinion. Advance Auto Parts or Autozone should be able to check the battery and alternator on the car and tell you which one is bad. Advance diagnosed mine - i thought it was the battery but it was the alternator. It pretty much has to be one of the two based upon your description.

Steve - Right on! Tex - Why are you here?

larryp, I feel that I may have a small leak somewhere in my A/C system (don't know if it's a line or what) because when I purchased the vehicle last May (it has been exactly a year) the A/C was working fine all the way until last month (April). If I have a leak I feel it may be a really small and slow leak. I don't know how to go about finding the leak without paying a crap load of money at some mechanic shop. And the price on the dryer is pretty good but how much to install it? Can I do it myself? And where do I get PAG46 compressor oil? And do most shops have the machines to remove the R12 oil? I need a little more detailed steps in what I should do. Thanks all. ← Brian, The receiver/drier is super easy to install. It's behind the right headlight. You can buy ac flush product to remove the oil but you really need equipment to do the proper flush otherwise you can't get the flush to move through the system. A shop specializing in AC repair should be able to handle. I replaced my compressor (locked up) and dryer and blew out the rest of the system with compressed air. I also replaced all o-rings in the entire system because they say the existing o-rings are not compatible with r-134a. Over time they may deteriorate. Replacing the o-rings is not a big deal except for the evaporator which is inside the blower unit. The blower unit is behind the passenger side dash and is a bear to get out. There are only 2 o-rings to replace in here so if i had to do it again i'd take my chances on those 2 and just replace the rest. The compressor oil is available at any auto parts store. Should take 8 oz. Remove suction side tube from compressor (labeled "S") and pour oil into compressor. You can buy flourescent dye (for r134 systems) and a detection kit (got mine at Autozone for $12). I had a leak after doing the repairs but the dye didn't show any leaks (or at least i couldn't find them). That's when i replaced all the o-rings and found one that was damaged. Now i'm riding cool just in time for those days where the heat index in Mississippi goes over 100. Hope that helps. Larry

Brian, If you can't find a local shop to recharge w/ R12 here's my recommendations: 1. Have the system vacuumed to remove all the R12. Sounds like you've done that. 2. Flush the system completely to remove ALL the R12 oil. 3. Purchase a new receiver dryer from ACPARTSNOW.COM for $16.83 plus shipping 4. Install new dryer 5. Add PAG46 compressor oil 5. Pull vacuum on system to remove all moisture and then recharge with R134a (using your retrofit kit). You didn't mention why the system stopped working. You don't want to go through all this and then find out you have a leak. Good luck.

No problem. :D Keep us posted on the outcome.

Number of possibilities but the first probable cause listed in the diagnosis for this code is "open or short in main o2 sensor circuit" which probably means a bad main o2 sensor. Other possibilities are listed that include ignition system, fuel injector blockage, water temp sensor and so on.

That's who i was going to recommend. Have used them once and they did me right. Again this is probably one for the pros to diagnose - but if you're stubborn like me, these would be my thoughts. You can replace the filter to eliminate that as a possibility. As i said, cheap fix but a nasty repair job with all the gas. I can loan you my new "noisy" fuel pump if you want to eliminate that as a possibility. If so, send me a PM and we'll make arrangements. The proper thing to do would be to measure the fuel pressure with a gauge but that takes some special tools and fittings. You could unhook the fuel line in the engine compartment on the drivers side and crank the engine to see if fuel comes out. This will tell you if the fuel pump is running, but won't tell you if it's weak or operating intermittently.

]By crankshaft he might mean timing belt problems. How many miles does it have and has the timing belt been replaced? Poor timing can appear to be a "lack of gas" problem. THe fuel filter is located on the driver's side in front on the rear wheel (underneath the car). It's a cheap fix but a tough repair - see other posts on this repair. Leaking fuel and stubborn fittings make it a lot more difficult than it should be. Fuel pump is fairly easy repair but i'd recommend you skip on the cheap Autozone replacements. I bought one when i thought i had a fuel pump problem (wasn't fuel pump) and it was so noisy i put the old original pump back in. At this point you may need professional help. I can recommend a local independent to repair if you need it - otherwise you'll need to start eliminating possibilities and provide feedback so we can assist in the diagnosis. Unfortunately this might take a while unless you get lucky.