larryp

On item # 3, you may want to have your alternator tested. False warning lights can be an indicator that the alternator is about to go. On the PS, i put in an Autozone cheapy a couple of years ago and haven't had any problems but i think that's atypical of most folks' experience. I'm sure you'll get good suggestions from others. Got 196k on my 91 and it has been a great ride. Welcome to the club!

You should be able to get the alternator out from underneath. Recently replaced mine (91LS) and didn't have to remove PS. It's tight and you have to remove bolts holding transmission lines in place, but you can wiggle the alternator out. That should provide easier access to the bolt.

I would have the battery AND the alternator tested to make sure they are 100%. Same symptoms can occur with a weak battery. Since you can get them tested for free, i would make sure i ruled out the obvious before i started contemplating removing the intake to replace the starter. Just a thought.

A couple of mine were on backwards and i never noticed until someone posted something about them being unidirectional. Once you know that it's hard to look at it and not feel like something is wrong, although most folks wouldn't notice. There may be some slight benefit to brake cooling when they're running the right way but i don't think it would hurt anything. IMHO i would wait until i could find 2 rights and 2 lefts. You'd always know something wasn't right if you have them mixed.

Suggest you have alternator tested. Sounds like output is marginal when under full load.

Agree with wwest. Those screws shouldn't have an impact. Once the lug nuts are torqued down, it's the wheel and the lug nuts that hold the rotor tight. Could be the lug holes in the rotor are oversized allowing some movement or you may have another issue. :(

You may want to check out this thread - i had the same problem and had the tank welded. http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...showtopic=17137 Need to find out what caused the crease that's allowing the leak. I tried JB weld and several other epoxies, but the problem was the excess pressure in the tank was too strong for this type of repair. The thread details all the trials and tribulations i went through, but it's still going strong. :D

It was the alternator. Replaced this weekend. Thanks for the replies! :D

Yesterday i had the following warning lights come on all at once (and they're still on): 1) Battery light 2) Brake warning light 3) Rear brake lamp failure light 4) Radiator light 5) Oil level light I did a search and found a post with the same problem, but there was no post as to the resolution. I know that coolant level is fine, oil level is fine, and rear brake lights work. I unplugged the battery for about 5 minutes and reconnected to reset the ECU. No change (i lost memory setting for seat and climate, but not radio - do i need to leave unplugged longer?). Have not had battery or alternator tested, but both are about 2 years old. Car is running fine. Any ideas?

I'm not a physicist but i did stay in a holiday inn express once. If it's a plus 1 wheel swap the diameter of the outside of the tire would be roughly the same so the biggest factor would be the increase in unsprung weight. if the replacement wheel tire combination weighed more, there would be more mass to move resulting in slower pickup. Of course you'd probably need an atomic clock to measure the difference in acceleration times. As for the friction, that would be a function of the tire tread compound soft vs hard. It must be something about the beds at holiday inn express, this actually sounds like i know what i'm talking about. ;)

Good economic decision!

Probably an alternator problem, but right now the issue is your battery doesn't have enough charge to turn the engine. Have you tried jumping it? You may want to take the battery out and have it charged and tested. If you can get it running and there's an auto parts store close by, they can test both the battery and the alternator while still in the car. If you can't get it running, address the battery first and you may have to take the alternator out to have it tested. More than likely the engine died because the alternator wasn't charging the battery and you were running off battery alone until it became too discharged to continue to run the car. Based upon your description, i doubt it's a fuse.

Boy do i feel inadequate - what is a solenoid filter? I thought the solenoid is what kicked the starter into action. I also have a 91. Where is this filter located?

Had a similar rattle in the 91. Could not locate the source - sounded like it was in the A pillar. Even rode around with a stethoscope trying to find it. Ending up taking the dash apart and removing the a-pillar cover. Found nothing. Sound didn't appear till car got up to about 40 mph. Finally, was changing front brake pads one day and noticed the inner wheel well had come looseon the driver's side. There was one bolt (to the rear of the tire) on the bottom that had come out. Pushed it back in and problem was solved. :D May not be your problem, but you may want to look. The sound was traveling from the wheel well up into the a-pillar and i just knew the problem was in the sunroof, a-pillar, or dash. Boy was i wrong. Felt foolish but man was i happy to eliminate the rattle.

I'll go first. It'll be a money pit to do all the repairs and at this point in it's life there will always be something to repair. You'll never recover your investment considering the cost of the repairs listed - even DIY. If you need access to cheap transportation i'd say buy it and drive it till the wheels fall off. If on the other hand you get easily frustrated by doing constant repairs, then you might want to pass. For me, if there was an opportunity to buy it, fix it, and sell it for a small profit, i'd do it. But otherwise i'd let someone else "enjoy" the experience. If you do "go for it", i'm sure we'll all enjoy your posts as you wade through the "river of repair". ;)

Find someone else to check it out. Looks like they're trying to take you to the cleaners! Also do a search on AC compressor and you'll find a lot of info from folks that have gone before you and dealt with these issues. ;)

It's a 91, so gas cap has no impact (won't turn on check engine). Also, since it's pre-OBDII it may not be "scannable" by most shops. Can't tell much without the code(s). :(

I think it looks great - hope it's a true representation.

Obviously the leak and the timing belt aren't related. Don't waste your money changing the belt.

Not a bad price to do it right. System must be evacuated and then flushed to remove all r12. Must replace receiver/dryer - not necessary to replace condensor. I switched when compressor failed so i had a new compressor. Oil in old compressor must be changed to r134a compatible oil. Would also need to change o-rings. Also must change low and high pressure fittings. No way $100 would cover the cost to do the conversion properly.

Remove compressor then flush. Also blow out the condensor and other lines with compressed air . Then put everything back together (with new o-rings) and add oil and recharge. Not familiar with a reseal kit unless that means o-rings. Sounds something like radiator stop leak - if so, don't think that would be a good idea. Good luck. Let us know if you have additional questions.

Got my compressor from Tech Choice in Texas for $270 (972-723-0112) although i think they mistakenly gave me the wholesale price. THere was no core charge. Got drier from ACpartsnow.com for $30. Paid $180 to have system evac and then recharged. Got o-rings from Advance and replaced ALL of them. Also converted to R134a at that time and have had no issues. :D

Agree. It's really not a difficult job - like everything else you do for the first time, it might take a while but you'll save mega bucks. Go for it and add AC expert to your resume.

Did my compressor and drier for around $450, including parts to convert to R134 and complete set of o-rings ($10 from Advance). It's not a difficult joband only requires basic tools - just time consuming. I did mine from underneath (had to remove oil filter to make room for removal) but that was easier than removing radiator. After installing all the parts and new o-rings, i took it to the mechanic and he pulled the vacumn and and recharged the system (BTW, took it to him before i started to have him recover the freon). Been cool all summer :D I wouldn't bother with the low pressure switch unless it's cheap or you know it's bad.

2001 and later LS430. :D