larryp

you should always try fill up the gas b4 1/4 or maybe 1/2, this is good in case of emergency, you dont want run out of gas in an emergency, plus i think when you have the tank 1/2 full it goes down faster, this depends on how you drive. ← The gauge does seem to move faster once it gets to 1/2 tank. Seems to take forever to go from full to 1/2 tank, but after that it goes quickly. Probably an issue with the sending unit - i've never measured a fill-up when the tank is half full to see if it truly takes 10 gallons. You can go way below E (at least in mine). I found out after my son borrowed the car one night (teenagers!). I get 20MPG around town and 25MPG on the interstate.

Welcome to the club! Congratulations on your new Lexus. Agree - 17" 5 spoke Lexus wheels would look awesome. B)

Try discounttiredirect.com They have some brands that tirerack doesn't have and also have an interactive viewer to see the wheels on the car. Enjoy your shopping experience.

The service manual has no special instructions for the control arm bolts other than "remove 2 bolts" so it appears you just need to persuade them. You could buy a compressor and impact wrench, or use a 1/2 inch drive socket and a breaker bar. I've never seen a bolt able to stand up to the torque you can apply through the additional leverage. If need be you can also add some steel pipe to gain further leverage - "with a long enough lever i could move the world" (Archimedes?) For an impact wrench you need one with a lot of torque in reverse. Mine has 600 ft lbs in reverse (got from home depot). But i'd try the 1/2 in drive and breaker bar and save yourself hundreds of $$$$ (assuming you don't already have compressor). :D Good luck!

If we're taking a vote, i agree w/ branshew. You know the history of what you have, and you know exactly what it'll take to get it right. ;)

NO BEEP ON MY 91. :cries:

Dealers actively look for paint work when valuing a trade-in and it will cause them to reduce trade-in value. However if you have quality work done and can document that the damage was superficial (as opposed to possible frame damage), it will help make the case for a fair trade value. Private buyers who pull a Carfax may be scared to death of any body work on the car, but again, you should be able to allay their fears with good documentation and a quality repair job. The alternative is to leave the dent. Unless it's a door ding, i'd have it fixed because a potential buyer won't want to deal with the hassle of a repair job and will likely overestimate the cost of repair to make it attractive to purchase. Hope that helps.

Vapor canister. Newlexusparts.com lists it at $255. May be cheaper elsewhere.

unless it had real low miles, i'd spring for a new one (if you want to replace). I've been running with my clogged one for a couple of months (don't report me to the EPA) by removing the pressure relief valve that's in the gas cap (independant repair shop said it was my option).

In the engine compartment driver side (also called the charcoal cannister). You can keep your gas cap loose so it can vent the excess pressure (not a prob on a 91 - but later years may turn on check eng light with loose cap) ;) . Hope that helps.

Replaced mine last week in my 91. THere are 3 14mm bolts. You can't get it out from above unless you take half the car apart. Get it from underneath. I had to remove the oil filter bracket to make enough room to get it out (even then it's still tight) - the stabiluzer bar is in the way. Good time to replace your drive belt if it's worn.

Ditto Brian's comment. Best $10 I ever spent (but you will need to but extra toner cartridges if you print it all out!). ;)

Had the same problem. Might want to check out this thread: http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...topic=17137&hl= Problem is evaporator is clogged causing excess pressure in tank.

Doug, Doesn't sound good - probably a fried ECU. :cries: I saw your other post about the melted wires - is that something that just occurred? Other than unhooking the negative battery terminal for a few minutes (maybe the ECU will forget about the problem) sounds like you need professional help. Maybe somebody else will have a better plan of attack.

Alternator removal is fairly easy: Disconnect battery negative terminal Remove drive belt Remove wires connected to alternator Remove thru bolt holding alternator Once alternator is out of the way you can replace the PS pump. I wouldn't replace the steering rack unless there was evidence of a problem. Pretty expensive. You will need to replace the PS pump (common problem) unless you find it is just a leaky hose fitting. Good luck!

So, Larryp....does that mean if I can't afford $10, I can just have you email me the pages from the manual ;) ← Sure. How does $1 a page sound? Gotta do something to recover that huge investment.

It's great. :D You can buy a one day subscription for $10 and download everything you need. It's the Lexus service manual. Excellent information about repairing everything and diagnosing problems.

Update: However, if you press a fan speed button the fan should stay at that speed until changed by pressing another button, or turning off.

Congrats Sounds like you found a real beauty. Hope it all works out in your favor.

Even with the Auto button off, the climate control still adjusts the fan based upon cabin temperature and the setting of the temp button. I know because my a/c compressor needs to be replaced so i have been running with the climate control AUTO button off and the car adjusts the fan (and heat on cold days) to match the temp setting i have selected. Hope that helps.

It's all personal preference. I personally think the chrome looks better on dark colored cars, but if you like it - just do it.

You can find these at your local auto parts store (Autozone, etc). They may not be an exact match cosmetically, but you should be able to find some that will work. I bought some recently for my 91. Look in the body connectors / fasteners section and you'll find them. Take something the same size as the hole so you can match it to the correct part. I used a Ford/GM part to fix mine. If you want an exact match that would probably mean the dealer.

Great choice! They look great. Go for it. :D

The fuse box is just to the left of the brake pedal up under the dash. On my 91 there is a diagram of the fuses printed on the cover. The STOP fuse is the only 25A fuse in the fuse box. Jeff's diagnosis sounds good. I'd try a jumper wire around the switch to see if you can force it on. I didn't crawl under there so i don't know how difficult that will be. :whistles: If it's not the switch, seems like the next probable culprit would be the brake light sensor in the trunk.

Probably a stupid question but did you inspect the bulbs? and the bulb holders for corrosion.? Is the brake failure warning light on the dash on? I don't have the wiring diagram, but the brake pedal switch may just be a ground to complete the circuit and may not be a hot wire. Fuse #1 in the driver kick panel fuse box controls the brake lights.