larryp

Sounds like you need a new water pump (and timing belt and idler pulleys while you're in there) and a new alternator. Also need to determine source of power steering leak (pump or rack).

Since the clutch will spin when you try to remove the bolt, you need to have some force to counter the pressure used to break a bolt loose. If you use 2 wrenches, one to loosen with and the other on one of the other bolts (which will cause this bolt to tighten), you can apply enough force to break the bolt loose. Whew , hopefully that made sense. When you get to the last bolt, use one of the other bolts that haven't been removed (but have been broken loose) as leverage for this last bolt. Can't help with the torque specs. It'd be tough to get a torque wrench on the clutch bolts anyway. I just tightened them down good and tight. Hope that helps.

Check out the tutorials section on the www.lexls.com website under engine mech. One of the early steps in replacing the timing belt is the removal of the serpentine belt, fan, and fan clutch.

Probably the compressor or the compressor clutch. Have a friend engage the AC while you look under engine. Should be fairly easy to isolate - they get pretty noisy when they're about to go.

I'll bet it's the alternator. Have it checked.

Like you, i know at this point any major repairs are going to represent a major portion of the total value of the car. If you plan on keeping her another year you'll have to get 'er fixed. However, as Harky suggested, bypassing the heater core for the summer might be a good option to "fix" the problem temporarily. I have had the pleasure to replace 2 heater cores in the last 3 months (F150 and Monte Carlo) and it is a major pain - not technically difficult - just plain hard to get to everything. On the F150 you have to remove entire dash. If you have any mechanical skills you could do probably do it yourself and save a ton of money. I'd bypass her for now and plan to fix her myself later (or at least find a ggod indie mechanic).

No experience with the product but i would be very leery of adding that to my cooling system.

Usually the false warning lights are an indication that the alternator is about to go. If you can get it running, take it to Autozone (or similar) and have them test the battery and alternator. I've replace two alternators on mine over the years and both times i had false warning lights prior to the alternator dying.

That's where mine stays all the time regardless of outside temperature or engine load (hot day, idling in traffic, A/C on full!). The LS has a great cooling system. If it goes anywhere above this level for any period of time then you have reason to worry.

Dexron III only.

I agree. That's the only time i've ever heard it.

This forum has been a great source of info to help a lot of folks maintain a fine automobile. There is a wealth of experience here that many have gained and shared by working their way through issues to resolution of a problem. Believe it or not, your personal experiences and opinions do not represent the total book of knowledge on this subject ;) . May want to sign up for an ASE refresher course on this topic.

Glad to see you got it permanently fixed. I know it's not real comfortable knowing you've got a gas leak in your vehicle! Now you can rest easy.

Make sure you have plenty of coolant. If level is low you'll also experience the symtpoms you described. Need to check when cold at the thermostat housing and add there if low.

Not to state the obvious - but - it's either the bulb in the dash or the selector switch is malfunctioning. If you are under full throttle, the power button won't make any difference since the shift points will be at their max RPMs any way. Power button adjusts shift points at less than full throttle to delay transmission shift until a higher RPM is reached. My guess would be a burned out bulb.

While i can't say for sure it wasn't defective before i noticed it leaking, i doubt that as the cause. i was in fact experiencing "hurricane force winds" when removing the cap. It happened especially during the summer months so i'm sure the Mississippi heat contributed to the fuel vapors expanding in the tank. The tank wall appeared to be pushed out from inside. The indie mechanic i took it to blamed the charcoal canister. He suggested either replacing the canister or leaving the gas cap loose to allow the vapors to escape. After repairing the tank and removing the gas cap air valve i haven't had any problems.

Thanks for the reply. So tell me this - what would have caused so much pressure to build inside the gas tank that it pushes the wall of the tank outward creating a hairline fracture at one of the bends? Could a bad check valve on the canister allow excess pressure to build in the tank?

Sorry to burst your bubble but i've "been there and done that". Did you bother to read the post detailing my "saga"? And as a matter of fact i do what know the the canister is designed for. It is part of a CLOSED loop system and when part of that loop is closed, pressure builds in the remainder of the system. Now clogged and saturated aren't the same thing, but i was simply responding to let the poster of additional symptoms / problems related to the EVAP canister gained from my own personal experience. Next time, do your homework before you post a smart a$$ comment.

A clogged EVAP canister can cause excessive pressure to build up eventually to the point of bending the gas tank and causing a leak. The gas cap is designed to let air IN when the pressure in the tank is less than outside air pressure but does not allow excess pressure in the tank to escape. Not saying this is your problem but it could be. Do a search on my userid for leaking fuel tank and read the saga i went through... :whistles:

Thanks for the reply. Anyone else have any experience eliminating this "clunk"? Rattle might be a better descriptor. Best analogy is that it sounds like there's a metal rod in the trunk that bounces around when going over small bumps at speed.

I had no problem getting to it. www.lexls.com Has a lot of great info on maintaining the LS.

Not sure how much damage (if any) a few ounces would do, but since you said it was brown (as opposed to red) , sounds like it needs flushing. You can do it yourself - just check out the tutorial in the link provided above.

I have been trying to determine the cause of this clunk which comes from the rear suspension. I replaced carrier bushings and strut rod bushings which eliminated the high speed vibration that i had but did not cure the clunk. The best description is that it sounds like there is something rattling in the trunk (it's not). Only occurs over small bumps - if there is a big dip that causes a lot of suspension travel, i don't hear it. I'm thinking differential carrier bushings because i can see that one is somewhat deteriorated, but i'd like to hear your feedback. Could it be sway bar bushings instead? At 16 years old they probably all need replacing, but i'd rather zero in on the most likely culprit for this next repair. Your thoughts will be appreciated.

Might want to do a search on my userid for my fuel tank "saga". Bottom line was clogged vapor canister which caused excess pressure to build in tank which deformed tank and created leak. Tank repair patches won't fix with that kind of pressure. If you smell gas strongly, it's still leaking. Gas cap has a valve which will let air in if pressure gets too low in tank but doesn't allow high pressure to escape. Good luck.

PS pump takes Dexron III ATF which is red. If you added regular PS fluid you definately need to flush. Check out lexls.com for a tutorial.