bartkat

Look at the second post here: http://www.clublexus.com/forums/showthread...0619&page=3

Canadian prices are higher. You should be able to compare by looking at Lexus Canad website. The retail to invoice ratio may be similar though.

When tire pressures drop due to cold weather, you sould pump them back up to spec.

Dynojet measures about 260 WHP for the IS350.

Here's how to check your headlight aim. You can test the aim by this method. Disregard the adjustment as it's for IS models. Headlight_aim.pdf I did the measurements and put the marks on the garage wall. You could also put marks on a garage door or any light colored vertical surface.

PDF version. Lexus_IS_Pricing.pdf

Thanks for the info. Your PDF is attached here: Lexus_IS_Pricing.pdf Your post is now a sticky, pinned at the top of the page. Thanks again.

What we're seeing is cars with approximately 10,000 miles having the brake squeal problem. I'm sure that and the dust thing will get solved sooner or later.

I'm still wondering if the shovel damage was for real. Wasn't that the original problem?

Put yellow bulbs or 3300K HID kit.

Look just to see about your suspicions of some sort of price scam.

Go look at it. If they do paint work they'll have to put a disclosure sticker on the window. Maybe you could use it as a ploy to get a lower price for yourself.

Hard to go wrong with that approach. I'm going to close the thread now so that anyone that searches can find it and either become well informed or thorougly confused. Thanks for all the input. Go to an IS350. Open the gas filler door. Read what it says on the inside of the little door. PREMIUM UNLEADED FUEL ONLY. Above is your first post. There have been plenty of comments. I think this thread can now be safely allowed to fall into the archives from where it may be retrieved by search function.

You have to do that any time the battery has been disconnected. I reckon some techs don't think us ordinary people can understand anything about cars.

Run each window all the way down and back up from it's individual switch and then you should be good.

Nice.

Interesting pdf! Was that 1/2 inch at 9.84 feet, or 25 feet? Did you notice a great improvement on the road, afterward? How many turns do you estimate it took to move it 1/2 inch? I'm definitely going to mess with mine; my low beams are pretty bad. Thanks. 1/2 inch at the 9.84 ft. I have the marks on the garage wall and a spot marked on the floor to set the distance. I can make a quick check by just driving into the garage. I think lot of cars are shipped with the lights set too low based on the number of complaints I've seen. Just setting to spec makes a big difference. It takes several turns of the screwdriver to make much difference, but you don't want to over do it. It's best to cover one of the lights with a cloth while adjusting the other one. I set the right side a little higher than the left and it helps a lot to see road signs, etc. I've always been picky about headlight alignment and usually end up with the best for vision, without getting flashed by other cars on the road. That's kinda the ultimate test. Set the lights and then go out and drive at night, then set again if need be. Probably 8 out of 10 cars on the road need their lights adjusted. Most people just don't pay much attention to that, and I doubt that most car dealers actually check during predelivery inspection.

Those OEM plastic fasteners are easy to break. I replaced mine with a type that holds up to being removed multiple times. Once you've had the covers off a time or two, it goes pretty fast. If the dealer goes by the measurements, you should see an improvement. The lights can be too high or too low, each making a problem seeing the road. Gotta get em just right. :)

If the tops of the headlight units look like the one in the attached diagram, then you can manually adjust the height. Use a standard phillips screwdriver to turn the little cogs. I adjusted mine about 1/2 inch above the line called for in the PDF. Headlight_aim.pdf

I see. Thanks for the clarification.

I'm not sure what you're trying to accomplish there, but when I make an accleration run, I just leave the trans on 6, push the ect on button and go. The car shifts just fine automatically with pedal to the floor till I decide to let off. I don't see any real advantage to using the paddles in this case because the car can shift faster than I can.

Premium (higher octane) gasoline burns less easily, thus less tendency to pre-ignite (knock) in higher compression engines. The IS250 has a compression ration of 12.0:1 while the IS350 has 11.8:1. That's high compression in anybody's book. Seeing as how Lexus went to the trouble to build these fine, relatively high performance engines, and seeing as how I paid premium dollars to obtain one of these I'm sure not gonna feed it anything less than top shelf stuff. ------------------------------ Adding some key search words for this thread so it can be easily found later on. gasoline octane premium regular gas fuel pump additives go juice timing knock knocking compression filter tank mid grade mid-grade hi test high octane performance low petrol

Some say that will go away after the tint dries out for a couple weeks. It may not entirely disappear though.

ML was really hard to get with some option combinations. Sometimes it was a really long wait. Besides, some folks just like custom setups.