UCF3

Yeah, that sounds about right for the work they did. I"m surprised a dealer in a major Metro Area like Chicago charges like an Upstate New York dealer

I've got to ask. Did you have this problem with the Optima installation or after the Optima Battery installation? If the starter worked before, it's your battery--since you mentioned the terminals were too big. from my experience, the clicking noise comes from the terminals making contact with the battery. Your terminals have to make a complete connection with the battery otherwise it will click or just not start. I would suggest stopping by a Walmart or Pepboys, pick up the right battery for your car, and see if that solves your problem. The only other part I can think of that might be the solution is the Alternator.

Definitely check out the strength of the timing and serpentine belts. Most of the time, the belt needs a little lubrication to stop squeeling. 95LS400: Could you describe your transmission issue in details? I have to agree with 99LSguy--changing the ATF fluid to Toyota Synthetics could resolve the hard shifting, but not 100% sure. Lexus and their modos--"perfection"!

I would suggest lifting the car's back end up, and look for leaky boots and seal. To me it sounds like a leaky rear CV boot, or a leaky differential joint.

take it to a Lexus dealer or a good lexus/toyota shop. You shouldn't have to kick the clutch in. It means something is seriously wrong with it, and it may need to be worked on. As for the shifter, you should only need to drop it into neutral, move left and right, and then shift it into Reverse. If that doesn't happen, you're probably going to need a new shifter. Please no more Sextual commentaries. that was nasty.

Leased vehicles are pretty well maintained. Dealerships force owners to keep the car in top notch condition, especially the 12 and 24month ones. I was forced to keep my G20 in top notch condition, and when I was planning to get a new one, the dealer was about to take close to 8k becasue of the mods on it. Have you checked out the dealer report on it yet? That price does seem a little steep. KBB private party value is coming back with $11-12k. Even the used car retail is around $14-14,5. I think you should wait, but if you really want it, then take it at 14k. Does he have any mods to it?

Blake, with regards to your early inquiry about compression testing. Good chance they won't do it, but you can work something out with the dealer, like when you're telling them you want a PreCertification Inspection testing done, but you also want a compression test done on the same tab. Most of them will probably look at you funny, but try to be convincing.

JPI: Don't you have a rebuilt PSP in stock that you can sell to our Swedish friend?

Wait a minute guys. We're going to have to get this thing authorized by the Admins, Management and my fellow moderators. since it will generate money for these shops, and if they're not authorized like JPI is, I don't think it will be wise or fair for those who are. VMF, would you like to start an inquiry in our section?

BlackSC4, welcome to the other side. How tights are your terminals to the battery. If it's clicking, and everything lights up on the dash, it's most likely your battery that's not tight enough.

nope. Only when you turn the lights on.

94 LS w/ 185k. Driving distance to and fro 60. Beltway stop and go, with a brisk 55mph once on the beltway. Average 1.4 gallons to and fro. I have to agree with some of the other guys. It sounds like you may have a bad 02 sensor, dirty air filter, or something else is wrong with your car to get such a poor economy. My dad(owned my car before me) would probably get 1.0 or less if he drove it, for the same distance. Suggestions: -Replace Air filter with K&N filter-Injen or basic round filter will do the job as well. -Switch to Mobil 1 5w30 or 10w30 (Synthetic) depending on the condition of your engine--I've run tests for Mobil on several occasions. One of the best oils. -Run Error code test. Free testing at an AutoZone, or at a trusted Tuner shop or mechanic's shop. If you have a code 25, you're going to need one or more new O2 sensor(s). -Check Tire pressure, All; keep at 30psi, unless you have a full car(load). --Optional: getting an ARC recorder that plugs into your OBD1 ECU. Driving Tips: -Start car first thing, and let idle for 20-30 secs, before putting into D or R. -Drive slowly; keep below 2000-2500RPMs until Oil is Completely warm--line at half mark. -Increase speeds, but keep your distance from the car infront of you--About Two to three medium car lengths. --Look at least a mile down, and learn to predict the pattern of driving and traffic infront of you. --If traffic is slowing down, take your foot off the throttle, and gently depress brakes--DO NOT LATE BRAKE, and let the car glide itself(momentum). You can take the car into Neutral if you wish, but do not apply the brake completely, until it's absolutely needed. Most fuel is lost during late braking and standing at a traffic light with the gear in drive. Brakes also get warped quicker if you late brake, and give the rotors less time to cool down. --Let the car drive itself, instead of you alway depressing the throttle most of the time. These tips should help you get better fuel mileage. Remember they call our cars, boats and grandpa machines for a reason. You kind of need to drive like a grandpa in order to get good mileage. :)

So I take it you like them.

Actually the former service and mechanics representatives starting their own shop is getting to be a very common trend. Perhaps you should go through the yellow pages before going to the dealers.

Yeah, did you know that Toyota and GM are in bed with eachother? Many auto makers are doing that. In fact when I was researching about the brakes on the my LS, I found out the LS400s share parts with Buick, Nissan, and the Toyota Supra. Also, the Ls400's chassis is similar to the buick regal and the chevy Lumina. That one took me by surprise.

Hey VMF: Wasn't your tutorial lost during the crash?

what did you have soddered? <_< . Didn't you buy a new/rebuilt one from Mikada?

Even the Pepboys Service Manager refused to turn a set of Toyota Rotors. He claimed that if you resurface it, it takes away from the functionality of the rotor. A while back, I saw this infomertial about rotor cleaners, and I wonder if it's still out there.

To start off, I should mention toyota hasn't used Catalytic converters for more than a decade, so you may want to clarify what he/she really changed, and why did he/she replace the fuel tank? If your LS has Trac and an Airsuspension, you'll find switches for them on the base part of the shifter(Airsuspension), and Trac OFF switch just above the Ashtray. You're going to have lights for the both in the gauge cluster. I have to disagree with wandawood regarding the airsuspension. I think it's worth it, especially if you have a full car of people. that sag makes me nervous. As long as you remember to turn the Airsuspension off before someone lifts your car up, it'd be okay. Regarding you timing belt and water pump question, that all depends on the condition of the cars block. Lexus recommends replacing them @ 90k, but I've read posts where people haven't replaced their Timing belt and water pump for another 50k. I would suggest you think about replacing the water pump, and test the strength of the timing belt periodically. You can spray it occasionally, so that it doesn't dry up often. there are several people who live near the Tech Triangle, so they'll be able to help you with that. Wandawood, good link. Good-luck.

Has anybody changed their starter, alternator, and fuel pump. I know mine is getting old and it takes 1.5sec to start my LS on a cold day. During summer it's immediate. On the other hand, my SC takes close to 3secs and does that, even during summer.

I don't think you'll find a Strut tower brace on the NA Supra. On the TT, you may come across one. Sorry VMF, I forgot to mention that was the lower rear strut brace/cage. TOM's has made complete kits for all Gens. You should check with Steve(I think) at Carson Toyota, and should be able to give you an idea. Caution they are expensive. Retrodriveon the ClubLexus forum knows what he's talking about. The others I don't know.

I'm thinking Pepboys didn't reset your computer. If you have a combination wrench set at home, I would suggest removing the negative terminal off the battery. Leave it unhooked for two minutes, and then reconnect it. That will reset your electronics on your car. Be advised, you're going to have to reprogram your clock and radio stations, since it's doing it for the entire system. If you don't have the wrenches, there is another way. PM me if you want to try that out.

Wow, they must be getting desperite.

Hey Blake: I'd recommend having your favourite mechanic take a look at it. Otherwise take the car to Lexus, and have them run a PreCertification Inspection. It costs around $150-250, but it's worth it, if you're seriously interested in the car. This way you can also get an actual estimate for the valve job, since JPI won't be able to do the work, unless you make a trip out there. Good-luck

Ahhhhhh, a moment in time, a glimmer of hope, when the weather clears' up enough for people to come out, and play!! I wish I had some mods done to my SC. I'm still plague'd with a leaky pan gasket, bald tires, and worn shocks. Someone please send me some $$$$. Oh yeah Miami SC300, cherish the moment.