UCF3

Yeah, why not some of our Authorized traders? Also, I would recommend checking out the " Performance Parts AND Frequently Asked Question, Performance Parts and General Repairs" that is pinned above. We took the time to create and add stuff to it, and you guys don't use it, WHY??? :( :chairshot:

Take the entire thing apart, and clean all of the rails and wheels, replace the head. There are some companies that can rebuild it, fi you don't want to tackle the problem yourself.

$20?? That's not bad at all.

I believe the UZFE engine is designed to be supercharged, more than Turbo charged., although the guys in Japan would probably disagree. A few years back, I read somewhere that a tuner group in Australia supercharged the SC400, and made it clear the hood. When I asked them about the LS400, they wern't really sure if it would. I think it's worth supercharging.

2XLexV8 wanted to post this, but apparently he/she ended up reporting it to us(moderators). 2XLexV8 Replies: Have you asked about good Toyota service departments? I work at a small SC Toyota dealership with several dozen regular Lexus clients. We recently serviced an LS400, including starter (not contacts), tune up, and other routine items for around $1100. We use Lexus parts unless the part numbers are interchangeable. My wife's project car, '92 SC400 with 145K, goes in this week for water pump, timing belt, front main seal, valve cover seals, tune up, and transmission drain and refill. Most of the parts are from a Charlotte, NC Lexus dealership. The non-employee estimate is just under $1000, parts and labor. Lexus wants nearly $1000 for a normal 150K service, and an additional ~$300 for the water pump. Oil change: $23.95 vs $44.95. Coffee is free at both places.

Didn't someone Turbo their Tundra? Is that what you're referring to Sadistic?

I'm guessing on this, but it could be your shocks as well. Have you done the dip test? Go to a corner of the car, and push it down. See how many times it bounces.

Hey, someone else had a similar accident, not too long ago. Repairing the car. I'm with SK. It all depends on what is damaged. I'm kind of surprised the insurance company declared your car totalled, unless there was severe frame damage. Personally, I would make it into a parts car, but keepin it in your garage might be a problem. You could sell parts as a Request for Parts, after you get permission from the Administrators, but I guess it depends on what you're doing next. Do you have any pics, that you can put up on our server? I'd love to see what's damaged.

I take it you haven't checked out our "Performance Parts AND Frequently Asked Question, Performance Parts and General Repairs" section. I've posted to reply to your question, along with a couple of people who can fix/sell you the parts.

The person should have told you to replace the pump. I drove my car with a PS issue for a few months. I just keep filling the cannister up. Here is something you should be aware off. Since the PS pump is above the alternator, it is important to replace the power steering pump ASAP, otherwise you'll need to replace the alternator. I suggest you start looking for a replacement unit. Pepboys sells a rebuilt version for a $100-200. I can also get one kind of cheap from my source. Dexron III is the pwer steering fluid

I don't think you'd known about the valve gasket issue. there are somethings we pick up. It took me a racing school to learn a lot about the dynamics of cars, driving and how it all works. You won't be in the same class as some of us, but starting slow is a good idea. pop quiz: what is the correct tire pressure for your LS400? If you don't know the answer to that, perhaps you should read your owners manual. That will teach you plenty.

jbatast: What year is your LS? Also, I would suggest you ask your mechanic to give you a more detailed description of what's going on with your rear struts? This will help narrow down some of the issues.

Doesn't anyone collect 1:36-1:43 scaled diecasts like I do? :(

Mac: Welcome to the club. I was wondering which corner lights are you referring to. the ones attached to the headlights or the bumper ones? Regarding the rearview mirror, I can't think of a way to fix it other than replacing it. You could check with JPI from JP importz to see if he has something or a solution. I haven't tampered with my fog lights yet, and probably won't since my Headlights are HID.

SRK: I think he's saying you don't have to change it before adding the Zmax solution. 99LS: I've read in previous posts that BG44 is an excellent Injector cleaner, and that you can apply it every other fill-up. You have to use it several times. This is what I think of most of these additives. In order to get them to work, you have to keep applying them several times. that's a lot of money. I'm used to using Mobil, Shell and Chevron fuel, and I know Mobil and Chevron fuels use cleaning detergents. I think that's a better choice than waisting extra money.--But that's just me.

lextreme is right. It's not an air suspension problem. The only way you can tell if your shocks are worn, is by bouncing the car. Go to each corner of the car, and push down. Then move back, and see how many bounces are occuring. A good shock will bounce only once. there is a chance the bushings may need to be replaced, but this is based upon a common problem with a lot of First Gen LSs'. shocks do not have air in them. They have gas(tokico gas shocks) or some of the more advanced ones has an oil and gas combination(z06 and C5 Corvette)

Are you referring to the garage or the club gallery? I'm not having the loggin issue I think you have. Could you describe it in details to me?

that's cool with me. I've been in your shoes before, rich suburban school, friends driving parents and expensive cars, blah, blah, blah. I even drove an new high end car when I was 16. Just be prepared to spend money. You have an old, high mileage, first gen car. I'm not really convinced Z max and the other additives really do anything productive. One of my sponsors is Mobil 1, so I end up listening to some of their lectures. They usually back up their facts, and Z max hasn't done that, in my opinion. Techron is a proven substance. You could try that out to see if it works for you.

Hey, it's still cold up there, isn't it? It could be header leak. I've seen cases where that has happened and slightly dark grey smoke has come out during acceleration. This might be something you might want to tackle during Spring. In the meanwhile, you could use some of the additives to seal up some leaks. Time to visit Autozone. :whistles:

I follow the exact driving tips you gave us. Execpt that in the mornings I warm the car up for about 10min not 10-30sec. I'm going to print this list out and show it to my machanic. But what is a 02 Sensor, he is just a local machanic but knows about Acuras and Toyotas, will he know what 02 Sensor is? And what is the exact job of--"Optional: getting an ARC recorder that plugs into your OBD1 ECU." Thank you very much. I think spending money on these repairs, if they work, will save me more money overtime; rather then filling up the tank every 5 days. Sorry didn't mean to respond so late. 02 is Oxygen sensors. If your local mechanic has a good code reading machine, he/she won't have any problem reading the code, if you have the code. I would suggest going to your mechanic for this only, and maybe the oil change. Sorry, ARC is a wireless management system onboard many race cars. The one you can plug into your car is the SAFC- made by Apexi, greddy, and is a plug and play monitoring system. Shoot an email to Steve@lextasy.com or Private Messager MrSypher--Moderator on the GS Forum. They can help you get it, if you want. ECU or ECM is the master computer for the car. Most ECUs have open ports you can use, to add devices. 10 minutes worth of warm up is okay, but under 1 minute worth of idle warm up will be best. Many mechanics and I have concluded even-warming for the car(engine, tires, transmission, fuel tank, suspension, etc) is better than just engine warm-up. Your car will wear evenly. I will be honest, the LS400 is a fuel guzzler. Most of us don't complain about fuel problems like not getting good mileage or fuel prices @ the pump, because we can afford the car. Since you're still in school and may not have a stable job, it's not wise to have such a big car. You're going to end up wasting money in the long run. A Toyota or the Lexus ES250/ES300 would be my choice.

Can't tell you. Need to rip apart your block, and check all the seals.

No, it's a way of stimulating the siloniod inside the starter.

JPI and I can help you purchase motor mounts and other OEM parts from the manufacturers bin and other sources. JPI may have cheaper prices than mine. Also, instead of the dealer, I would recommend finding another shop who can do the work for you. Look in the yellow pages for Lexus/Toyota Specialty shops. They can be an asset in any case.

It sounds like what the other guys are staying. You may need to change out one or two bushings connected to the sway bar and rear control arm, but this is a wild guess.

It could. If your alternator refuses to start, your starter won't spinn on its own after ignition. It will keep on choking. How far is it spinning; is it making complete rotations or stopping in mid session? Think of the alternator as the heart of a car. The starter acts as a jolt of electricity to the alternator. If you haven't used this technique before. If your clicking noise has stopped, try taking the stick end of a broom, and hitting the extreme bottom of the engine. Location: Car's left side, down, silver metal pan looking thing. Hit it a couple of times. Then turn the ignition. See if it turns over.