92Lex

Okay, I'll tell Wayne Harris...what's his phone number? It's a ported enclosure...that means there is a hole in the enclosure TurboGS. Stop quoting other people...speak for yourself.

Are there any O2 readings or CO2?

Your door speakers should be 5 1/4 inches. I'm not sure how much you are looking to spend, so it's hard to point you in the right direction as to an exact model but MB Quart would be a good choice.

Polyfil doesn't do !Removed! for a ported enclosure.

Do they turn on as soon as you start your car?

Cmon now, you guys are right but there's no need to be that harsh on him.

You can check the timing but it's not adjustable unless you were to remove the timing belt and reposition the pulleys. If you wait till Monday when I'm back at the shop, I'll check to see if you have to ground any connectors to check timing.

More like 15'...it probally wouldn't make it with 12' unless you were planning on running it straight down the middle. If I were you I'd leave the rear door speakers in there just for rear fill.

How much are you looking to spend?

Are you trying to hook up an aftermarket amp?

Test the battery before having it replaced...make sure you're not taking the shotgun approach.

Where are your tutorials?!?

Does the HU have power?

Maybe an exhaust leak or timing skipped a tooth.

You're going to have to remove the rear seats to run the wires through to the trunk. There a metal rectangles that you will be able to "pop" out once you get the backrest out...you wont have to drill. Why do you want to port you rear deck? For the sub? If yeah then just take out the subwoofer that is mounted on the rear deck.

I'd say 17's.

I got a steal of a deal Monarch and its treating me well...I paid $4k for my 91 and $8200 for my 95. Hey fast50ranger, just take it to a shop for a certified inspection and have them take a look at both vehicles.

8" would be more like a subwoofer.

ATD, Nesco & KD Tools have some of the exact same things I can get off the Snap-On and MAC trucks. I'm not saying everything should be bought from your local autoparts store, but there are some products that you would be able to save money on by doing so. Your theory should work if you're able to hold everything still. I broke the crankshaft pulley bolt free by using the starter method though. There's this tool called a spark plug piston lock made by LTI Tools...part# LTI 865. Use that tool and you shouldn't have a problem trying to get the crankshaft pulley bolt back on.

Use a flat head screwdriver, brace the driver against the resevoir for leverage and slide the hose off of the inlet.

#38220 is the part number, it looks similar to the spanner wrench. You should be able to get this at your local autoparts store also. #36880 will work well on Honda's and Acura's but the cam sprockets on your car are spaced too far apart for that tool to work. Hey sunman, you know some of those tools you could get from MAC and Snap-On are the exact same ones you could pick up from Kragens and Pep Boys right? I own a bunch of Snap-On stuff and I found out later that some of the products that Snap-On and MAC sell are available at Kragens for about 1/4 of the price...they are made by the same company.

Maintenance records. Have someone certified inspect the vechicles, then make your decision based on the results. If both vehicles check out the same then pick the car with the options that you desire.

There's a cam lock tool made by Lisle which will aid in holding those sprockets in place...sells for $30.

Can't you just do the whole job without removing the cam pulleys? I'm not sure about the ES, but when I did the timing belt on my LS the manual said I needed to remove the cam pulleys, but I just left them on because it wasn't necessary. Are you planning on replacing the seals or something?

That pedal you're stepping on has nothing to do with adding more gas...it actually adds more air. Throttle: FI- adds air Carb- adds fuel Check the idle air control valve or MAF sensor for problems.