92Lex

Imagine that the modulator is a soda bottle. The cap that you are trying to pop off is the cap of the soda bottle...it doesn't screw out and you want a sip, so you're going to have to pry the cap off with a screwdriver. Take a screwdriver put it under the lower rim of the cap and "flip" it up.

What brake sensor? It's a 92 LS4.

How could you possibly determine that the O2 sensor is malfunctioning based on just the check engine light?

A blinking check engine light is because your engine is severely misfiring. Don't keep driving around like that...it's going to damage your catalyst.

Haha..okay...say whatever makes you happy. Even if you put 6.5's in place of 4" speakers and you allow the 2" of sound cancellation it still would sound better. Speakers able to hit 100hz is going to sound better than speakers able to hit 250hz regardless of the smaller diameter opening on the door panel. So lets say those 6.5's placed behind a 4" grill would cost you 2.5 inches...4 of the 6 1/2 inches is still capable of producing sound right?....so it's not going to be as efficient as having all 6.5 inches exposed but it's still going to hit the 100hz frequency that regular 4" speakers isn't able to...better sound right? If you don't understand how these frequencies affect a vehicles acoustics then I would suggest you do some research. I give up...believe whatever you want to believe but just don't give people crappy knowledge.

Haha. Professional installers do it all the time buddy. No knowledge?...are you kidding me? You're the one that's trying to tell everybody that an upgrade to 6.5's is considered a major modification...lmao...people these days... If you had 4" speakers you would have to set the cross-over frequency to about 250hz. If you had 6.5's you would be able to set it to 100hz. Subwoofers are usually set from 80-100hz...with 4" speakers don't you think there will be dead spots? 100hz and 250hz is going to sound a whole lot different...it doesn't matter if it's a 5" hole versus a 7" hole, it's not that big of a difference...cmon now Mr. Professional. 6.5's would be considered doing it right. If you have 4" speakers why install aftermarket 4" speakers and a sub because 4" speakers simply lack mid bass. The sub is going to cut off at 100hz and the 4" components will pick up at 250hz...doesn't that seem not too smooth. If you're gonna do something do it right? Professional? You're joking around right?

EGR= Exhaust Gas Recirculation...it re-circulates some of the unused exhaust gases back into the combustion process. The EGR valve is normally closed only at idle and wide open throttle. If you disconnect the vacuum line to the EGR while at idle it shouldn't do anything to the vehicle...if you apply vacuum to the valve at idle the engine will stall...that's a working EGR valve. I'm a smog tech...what were your test results?

6.5's work. If you're afraid of noise cancellation then howcome you didn't remove the grill and carpeting on your panels? You might as well surface mount all your speakers if you're so afraid of cancellation.

Low brake fluid.

The check engine light has nothing to do with your fluid levels. Because your car is OBD2 it is definitely emissions related. Do as barkat suggested and get the trouble code pulled.

Thank You

I've used Easy-Off oven cleaner (yellow can) to remove painted on pinstripes...I even posted a tutorial on it.

I've replaced the tranny fluid and a whole bunch of other things on my car (91 LS400). Yeah, you could say that it's like an oil change. I'm not positive if your vehicle is the same because I've never worked on a GS before (maybe someone can confirm this) but you could take a look at this tutorial I posted for my LS: http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...showtopic=14728. You could also go with the pan drain and fill method (very much like an oil change) but with 200k+ on original fluid I'd suggest getting a full flush. If you're in doubt just take it to an independant shop to have them power flush your tranny...just make sure you bring in your own transmission fluid (T-IV). If you take a look at the manual you'll see 5w-30 for oil and probally T-II or T-IV (depending on the year of the vehicle) for transmissions. With motor oil they aren't specific on which brand to use but rather which weight to use...as for the tranny fluid they do recommend using only Toyota ATF. What I'm trying to say is it's important to stick with the tranny fluid from Toyota because if it didn't matter then why would they be so specific? Amsoil does recommend using their ATF's for applications where T-IV is required. FYI- T-IV is a suitable replacement for T-II tranny fluid. Hope this helps.

Toyota T-IV transmission fluid (available at Toyota dealerships for about $5 a quart). Yes, you should definitely replace the fluid.

Thanks molocka12 but I've already figured it out....I posted last night.

Howcome people don't have problems with the cold cathode backlighting flickering or going out?

There you go...MB Quart is an exellent choice. I have 6.5" Q series all around...which series are you going with?

Everyone is right...the commute isn't worth it. It turns out that I don't even have to commute 3 hours to work anymore...I just accepted a job 15 minutes away. I no longer have to stress about spending 6 hours driving per day. I'm going to make $21k over my current pay at this place plus this guy rebuilds transmissions and is willing to teach me. Less money but in the end it's more once I calculate the cost of fuel and toll. Everything is going smoother than I expected. Thanks to everyone for all the insights.

Really? Which ones are you refering to when you say "the rest"?

1.5"? Are you serious?

Hahaha. When I started to read that post I was thinking "wtf, they make Drano for cars?" I've been doing a little drinkin tonight myself..hahha.

I wouldn't say downstream O2S never go bad.

Not a problem...that's what this community is for. We help you now and hopefully you'll do the same and help someone out later on. Try using a steak knife if the screwdriver you're using is too thick...any of those 4 slots in the lens will work (I just circled one cause I was being lazy).

Yeah, but the backlighting (numbers) aren't.

If you haven't already done so then pop the lens cover off with a screwdriver. You will be able to see all the bulbs without having to remove anything else. I circled the slot to stick your screwdriver in the picture below: