92Lex

No signs of leak anywhere besides having to refill the ps steering resevoir...probally means that the fluid is burning off in the combustion process. If that is the case then you should see white smoke from the exhaust when you start your car. So like TexasLexus said...it's blow by loss. Pull out the hose leading from the valve to the IM, if you see traces of oil then it's likely that the valve needs to be replaced.

Does it even turn over?

Replace the air control valve.

If you're in doubt then take it to a shop.

Acura Legends are notorious for overheating and blown head gaskets.

You're asking way too much for most of those parts. The reason you can't post anything in the Buy & Sell forum is because you haven't met the 20 post min limit...it's in the rules.

Running equal size subwoofers would sound better. Usually amps will put out less wrms with an 8ohm load...but that depends on the amp. What amp are you using?

Collect on the total loss...buy it back then part it out.

What do you need the reading for?

Get the part number from Lexus then call Toyota to see if they have the same part.

Fuel saturated charcoal canister may cause rich driveability problems. The code thrown for the EVAP system might be as simple as a bad or loose gas cap.

Are you using the converter for a sub? Just tap into the speaker wires for the rear speakers from the back of your headunit to the converter...then run the interconnects back to the amp.

If the pictures were not there half a year ago I doubt they would be there now.

Replace the springs and shocks together. If you just replace the spring alone and keep the original shocks your car will bounce and handle very poorly. You might need a camber kit depending on how much you are planning on slamming it. I would say it's a pretty straight foward job.

I have a 12w6v2 in my LS...it did rattle but I sound deadened the trunk just to clean everything up. Most of the rattles was because of the subwoofer cover on the rear deck...it was too weak and was flexing everytime the lower frequencies hit. I pulled out the sub cover and ran metal braces across it to keep it from sounding nasty. Dynamat is way too expensive/over-rated, you could find stuff just as good/cheaper here: http://www.raamaudio.com/. You might get some rattle from the license plate and tail lights depending on how hard you're pushing the JL. Just put about 2 layers on the back of your license plate to calm things down.

Why would you want to put a sticker on it?...when the sun hits it at a certain angle you'll see an annoying sticker. ;)

I think what IFixEm is trying to say is that he should clean the MAF sensor. He made it 2 pages long but that's probally what he was trying to say. IFixEm, it's okay to use a Q-tip and alcohol. I wouldn't use Brake-clean on a MAF sensor...it might damage the sensor.

Have a shop actually diagnose components. Could be the computer, MAF sensor or idle air control valve.

Why don't you just fix the problem to get the light to go away?

I'm going to do one in about a month or so. I'll shoot the pics your way Carl.

Does it do the same thing if you just let the car idle? If it's spilling out I would say your alternator is at risk of failing too.

Yeah, removing an EGR will improve performance somewhat...MPG will decrease slightly. It's not going to cause damage without the EGR but just make sure you plug it back in (and make sure it's functional) before you go back for your bi-annual smog check.

Bank 1 sensor 1, heated O2 sensor circuit malfunction. Pull out the sensor and check the heating coil of the sensor for continuity with a multimeter. Were any other codes thrown?

Well, anything is possible sainikai but you can't say, "it sounds like a O2S" based on what yudelia said. FYI, bad O2 sensors can make your car run like crap.

I had MB Quart 4" PCE's in my 91 LS4...I kept the original enclosure that housed the stock speaker...mounted the MBQ in there and applied sealant to seal up the enclosure. I'll tell ya, I wasn't satisfied with the midbass at all. So I pulled the 4" components out and threw in 6.5" MBQ Q-series components...it sure as hell made my system sound very well rounded. 4" components simply lack midbass regardless of the enclosure. Yeah, your subwoofer is going to supply most of the bass but only up to 100hz...it would be ideal to have components capable of picking up where the sub left off (100hz) and continue with the higher frequencies. What I'm trying to say is that with 4" speakers once the sub cuts off at 100hz there is going to be a 150hz gap before the coxials will play (250hz)...the transition from frequency to frequency just isn't going to sound as smooth...150hz of "missing" frequencies will affect SQ. So basicly it's going to lack the midbass...you could try to set the crossover for 4" speakers to 100hz but they will most likely bottom out. But yeah, we had a good run there. We have our differences but it's all good though.