Synthetic Oil 5/30 Vs 10/30

[BALOO BELLE]

i jsut started doing my oil changes and have heard different things about high mileage, synthetic vs regular oil etc

i live in south florida so cold starts are maybe in the mid thirties twice a year. i run pure synthetic mobil one or royal purple (local company). i had the engine flushed with a machine at 70k (not with dishsoap! lol) when i got the car. and at 123K do i need high mileage oil and/or the higher grade 10/30? or is that out the door when dealing with synthetic. i was told synthetic doesnt break down like the regular oil so there is no need to go to the higher grade. seems to run better on 10/30.

i put the 10/30 mobil one extended and the matching filter.. it says it is good for 15K.. im not so sure i trust that... does the extended oil and filter make it safe to go at least 10K or is that a bunch of gimmics?

[Mike B.]

My only concern with a high mileage vehicle and pure synthetic oil is leaks. If you aren't experiencing any leaks then that's not an issue here. I'd say 10w30 in FL probably is a good combination. As for the mileage you are correct that synthetic oil does not lose viscosity like real oil but particulates are still a problem. I personally wouldn't go over 7,500 miles on synthetic oil and 5,000 on dino oil.

[SW03ES]

I also want to add that engine flushes for the most part aren't a good idea. There is no auto manufacturer that recommends an engine flush, and there is a lot of research out ere that a power flush of the engine actually can do damage to the engine...

I would never do an engine flush on one of my vehicles.

[gbhrps]

I agree with the others on this. You are perfectly fine with dino 10W30. The manufacturer delivered the car with that oil already in it, not anything thinner, or even a synthetic.

The reality is that you have a 10 year old car, that will most likely still be on the road and going strong in another 10 years from now, provided that its not neglected and receives routine maintenance. The Oil Companies' hype on synthetic oils is way overblown for average drivers like you and me. If you are pounding on that engine every day, racing it, or driving in a fleet of taxi cabs .... then maybe you should invest the extra money and switch over to synthetic oil. Otherwise, save your money for that next set of tires, brakes, or the down payment of your next Lexus.

If your engine had synthetic oil in it when new, then you should continue using it. If not, switching over now will possibly cause you engine seal leaks, and will definitely have you throwing money away needlessly.

[MrLatifa]

Synthetic oils dont break down as fast, but BOTH get dirty and full of grit at the same rate. Lest we mention that the more miles a car has, the possibility of a tad more "blow by" the pistons. This blow by will degrade oil quickly, no matter what kind you use. Being of smaller molecular structure than regular oils, synthetics can lead to sooner gasket leaks, as the gaskets fall naturally over time. Also, as gaskets begin to leak, oil becomes contaminate more quickly.

I would reccomend a solid 10/30 certified oil. Use a quality filter (such as wix) NOT FRAM! And change it on a regular basis : 3-5k miles. My lexus doenst take over 5qts of oil. I would rather use a lesser expensive (quality) oil and keep the changes more frequent. You will get the benefits of clean oil, clean filter, and a technician looking under your car, on a more often basis. Where Ive been working on cars for near 10yrs, oil changes are the best chance to get air in the tires, and catch any gasket failures or other issues, BEFORE they get bad.

Just my 2cents, but above all, cleanliness= longevity.

-my last 3 toyotas have over 310k miles on the stock engine, and all run strong. NONE ever saw a lick of synthetic-

[BALOO BELLE]

1. i have a k&n how long do i go between cleanings? i have been doing it every 5 w the synthetic.

2. k&n says lifetime filter but its about 4 years old. do i purchase a new one or start using disposable?

3. to switch back to dino oil do i need to run a blend for one change?

[1990LS400]

OEM Toyota/Lexus oil filters are inexpensive and are of uniformly good quality. I don't understand why people bother with aftermarket and particularly with K&N filters whose quality, based on what I read on car forums, seems dicey.

Not that the 2002 ES300 V6 is known for having serious or as serious sludge issues like the Toyota/Lexus V6 engines of just before that but the potential sludge issue is one the reasons I've used only synthetic oil (Mobil 1 5w/30) in our 98 Camry V6 - purchased new and now at about 125,000 miles. Our Camry is now driven only about 5,000 miles per year which is another reason I'm more comfortable with synthetic oil. I'm changing the oil in it by mileage only -- not going to do it every six months. The only oil "consumption" we have in our Camry V6 is a little bit of leaking from the valve cover gaskets - the oil level barely falls over 5,000 miles.

The main thing is that oil is changed on a regular basis. Like Latify, I've known people who have gotten well over 300,000 on Toyota engines running on regular oil.

[SW03ES]

Yeah I wouldn't use a K&N filter personally...

[MrLatifa]

OEM Toyota/Lexus oil filters are inexpensive and are of uniformly good quality. I don't understand why people bother with aftermarket and particularly with K&N filters whose quality, based on what I read on car forums, seems dicey.

Not that the 2002 ES300 V6 is known for having serious or as serious sludge issues like the Toyota/Lexus V6 engines of just before that but the potential sludge issue is one the reasons I've used only synthetic oil (Mobil 1 5w/30) in our 98 Camry V6 - purchased new and now at about 125,000 miles. Our Camry is now driven only about 5,000 miles per year which is another reason I'm more comfortable with synthetic oil. I'm changing the oil in it by mileage only -- not going to do it every six months. The only oil "consumption" we have in our Camry V6 is a little bit of leaking from the valve cover gaskets - the oil level barely falls over 5,000 miles.

The main thing is that oil is changed on a regular basis. Like Latify, I've known people who have gotten well over 300,000 on Toyota engines running on regular oil.

Using a synthetic for a car that doesnt see many miles, and sits a long time...Makes perfect sense. Synthetics contain different detergents, and Id bet synthetics maintain their "mix" better as it sits for extended periods? Anyhow, well put, I like your style.

As for running a blend to go to dino oil... not necessary. Quiet a few places are using "synthetic blend" oil, and I'm guessing its a blend. lol Anyhow, If I had a brand new car that was shipped to me with synthetic....I'd run it until the first hint of an oil leak. 50-80k miles. Then I'd switch to dino oil and that would be that... Unless....theres special circumstances.

I KNOW toyota oil and air filters are of good quality, also I find that WIX is good quality and more available to me. There are only a handful of filter manufacturers that sell under 100's of names. Kinda like oil. I would NOT use a k&n reusable filter. For a filter to flow more air, it is stopping less dirt.. These cars from factory, are setup to flow a fairly precise ammount of air. Unless you make other engine modifications, I wouldnt see much gain in "allowing" the engine to breathe more. Your car only needs so much air. In a non-turbo engine, the physical mechanics of the engine, allow only so much vacuum to the throttle plates, at any given rpm. True, you remove an air filter and your car may free rev easier, but think of how much money and time Lexus spent on deciding what exact intake piping and fuel mapping to use. Ive noticed that as you reduce the restricion caused by an air filter (the car was designed to have), you lose some of the smooth acceleration. Last k&n filter I installed on a customers 3.1liter, 85k miles on it, he blew the mains while free reving it to let his buddies hear how cool it sounded. Anyhow, I prefer to err on the side of caution. Of course, if youve made modifications to the internal engine, you would know what youre needing, and longevity takes a back seat.

Its time to clean a K&N air filter when umm....... Hell i dunno, last one I cleaned was the LAST ONE I'll ever clean. lol

[Mike B.]

To the OP. If you started using synthetic at 70k and now have 123k with no leaks don't let anyone here talk you out of using synthetic as it's working for you. I would still maintain changes at no more than 7,500 miles. Because my car always had dino oil and I bought it with 130k on it I use a high mileage blend. Changing on a regular basis is by far more important than what you use (as long as it's reasonably decent). Take care of your ES and it will take care of you.

[J Random User]

Extended oil change is not a gimmick, but you still need to change the oil at least once a year. Some cars have an oil life monitor (mainly GM and European cars) that takes into account engine speed, coolant temp, ambient temp, etc. everything that affects oil life and recommends an interval based on that information. The Euro cars are usually calibrated for synthetic oil while GM usually isn't. I saw a Grand Am recommend 7000 miles (on regular oil--that car's computer is not calibrated for synthetic!), and BMW and Mercedes can go up to 20000 miles (synthetic)

On my 96 ES300 I use 0W-30 Mobil 1, once a year (usually about 8000-10000 miles), with a matching Mobil 1 filter (they often go on sale for about $30 for five quarts and the filter). Their high-mileage oils are also very good. You don't necessarily need Extended Performance, but of course it wouldn't hurt!

Castrol Edge/Syntec 0W-30 is another good one (but ONLY the 0W-30), it's also known as GC or "German Castrol"

As for oil filters, Mobil 1, K&N*, Bosch Distance Plus, and Purolator PureONE seem like the best. The PureONE has a sandpaper coating, making it very easy to install and remove (instead of getting slippery from the oil) and it's only about $5

*NOTE: Unlike their air filters, K&N *oil* filters are very good. I know about the controversy surrounding them that other members highlighted, but it doesn't apply to the oil filters.

Honestly, nay oil filter will be good except Fram. They're made of cardboard. "Anything other than Fram" is the most important part about selecting an oil filter.

And 123k isn't high mileage to a Camry!

[Lexusfreak]

I keep it simple...I use Amsoil synthetics (oil, tranny fluid, brake fluid, power steering fluid) in my 2 vehicles & have for years. Because we live in the great white north, I use Amsoil 0W 30, along with their synthetic oil filters. I do the oil & filter changes myself every 6 months, regardless of mileage (which works out to be 8k - 10k anyways). For those that do their own oil changes, I highly suggest the Fumoto oil drain valve as well...makes a huge difference with no mess to drain the oil & it replaces your current oil plug.

Check out www.amsoil.com for their synthetics. B)

[Mrshim78]

Any feedback on high mileage oils? I bought my es300 (1997, 188,000 KM, ie 116,000 miles) and did an oil change right away (Regular 5w30 oil). its due for its change in March or so. I am not going to change to synthetic because all the service records show the previous owner has used regular oil (and always changed the oil at regular intervals of 5-8,000km but no more than 8,000 km).

However, it is an old car, and the valve cover gaskets do "sweat" a bit,but no biggie. not really losing any oil . (i guess whenever it goes for its timing belt late next year or so I'll get the valve cover gaskets replaced with the newer toyota oem ones)

i am thinking of switching to quaker state high mileage oil - now a 'high mileage oil' just 'hype' ? it does say it swells the seals , which sounds like a good thing, though i hope it doesnt mess with anything else? I am wondering if anyone here has tried it, or would suggest using it?

here is an example from my local store (i am in canada)

http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/browse/4/Auto/3/AutoFluidsChemicals/EngineOils/PRD~0289017P/Quaker+State+High+Mileage+Motor+Oil.jsp?locale=en

[Mrshim78]

good info, esp on the filters. i shall avoid the cheap fram ones!

Extended oil change is not a gimmick, but you still need to change the oil at least once a year. Some cars have an oil life monitor (mainly GM and European cars) that takes into account engine speed, coolant temp, ambient temp, etc. everything that affects oil life and recommends an interval based on that information. The Euro cars are usually calibrated for synthetic oil while GM usually isn't. I saw a Grand Am recommend 7000 miles (on regular oil--that car's computer is not calibrated for synthetic!), and BMW and Mercedes can go up to 20000 miles (synthetic)

On my 96 ES300 I use 0W-30 Mobil 1, once a year (usually about 8000-10000 miles), with a matching Mobil 1 filter (they often go on sale for about $30 for five quarts and the filter). Their high-mileage oils are also very good. You don't necessarily need Extended Performance, but of course it wouldn't hurt!

Castrol Edge/Syntec 0W-30 is another good one (but ONLY the 0W-30), it's also known as GC or "German Castrol"

As for oil filters, Mobil 1, K&N*, Bosch Distance Plus, and Purolator PureONE seem like the best. The PureONE has a sandpaper coating, making it very easy to install and remove (instead of getting slippery from the oil) and it's only about $5

*NOTE: Unlike their air filters, K&N *oil* filters are very good. I know about the controversy surrounding them that other members highlighted, but it doesn't apply to the oil filters.

Honestly, nay oil filter will be good except Fram. They're made of cardboard. "Anything other than Fram" is the most important part about selecting an oil filter.

And 123k isn't high mileage to a Camry!

[dcfish]

Does anyone Remember Mburnicas ? I think that was his Handle

[SupraMan]

My ES300 has 202,000 miles. I use full synthetic Mobil 1 because Walmart sells a top lube inexpensively. It doesn't leak or burn any oil, it just purrs. Engineered lubricant is exactly that, something that is designed from the ground up to offer superior lubrication characteristics with a non dyno-juice base for a longer duration at higher price point. Any quality lubricant and a great filter like Purolator Pure One with proper change interval WILL absolutely prolong engine life. For under ten bucks more per change, I can extend the drain cycle so it is actually costing less per mile. I never planned keeping the ES this long, but have a morbid curiousity how long it will run well; several friends own 250-350k+ samples still running great. Amazing value.