J Random User

Why not get one of those power packs with USB charging ports instead and charge your phone that way? You can get these in Walmart, Costco etc. The bigger their battery, the more juice they will hold and can charge your iphone. The good ones can probably give you about 2 full charge cycles for an iphone.

Most of your advice is good but I have to call out the "pump up the pressure" myth! Increasing tire pressure, even significantly is proven to have no effect on fuel economy: http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/news/4199963

If your husband is a mechanic don't you think he's probably more qualified to answer this than most people here? IMO, it all depends on how long you intend to keep the car really. Fluid changes of any kind are relatively cheap insurance against failures. The "gasket" referred to by the maintenance manual is likely the very inexpensive rubber washer that seals the plug similar to ones on the oil drain plugs. And no, diff. fluid and gasket changes are not only a "Lexus" thing, a lot of 4WD cars recommend this just like transmission fluid change or engine oil change.

This is called the "placebo effect". There is no way that switching to a K&N felt filter would give you a whopping 10% in MPG nor any noticeable increase in HP that a driver could discern and certainly never to the point of being anywhere near "phenomenal"increase etc. Go look up the dyno tests done with K&N filters vs. stock and see for yourself the results are either marginally better (in the range of %0.0X!) or actually worse than stock.

IS250 2006 AWD w/140k miles Guys I went to my mechanic because my AC was blowing cold air at idle at a light, etc instead of heat. Also, fuel efficiency has been 17hwy. He said the coolant reservoir is completely empty and I have a radiator leak 1) Now, if the reservoir was completely empty, most likely it was empty for a while. I would thin the engine would blow up or at least I'll get a light on the dashboard but did not 2) Do I need to replace the entire radiator? The radiator with thermostat comes to $600 parts & labor Thanks

Guys My 1st Gen IS250 heating is funny. On consistent speeds of 30+ mph, the heating works fine. However, below that it gives out cool air even with the highest heat setting. So if I'm driving for 30 mins with 30+ mph and then drop down to stop and go traffic, I only get cool air. Has anybody seen this? My mechanic says it's best to flush the antifreeze and neon, etc but I don't know if that's the problem since higher speeds it's no problem Thanks

anybody?

Guys My mechanic says the middle piece of the catalytic converter needs to be replaced since it has a leak on either side. Quoted me $2150. He said no aftermarket CATS are available for the IS250 but I found some on the web from Magnaflow and Catco Are these any good or totally unreliable? Has anybody got experience with them? Thanks!

How about KYB Strut Plus? It is a complete assembly and very easy to install. It includes the GR-2 strut and all the hardware kashii mentioned. If it isn't listed for the ES300, you can use the part numbers they have for the Camry V6.

Wrong. Your car sounds like California emissions. (but look under the hood to make sure) FOr California emissions, the Bank 1 pre-cat is bult into the Y-pipe (along with the main cat). Tha Bank 2 cat is built into the front exhaust manifold. (Federal non-California emisisons cars do not have pre-cats and a different main cat) I would suggest a direct-fit aftermarket converter. They run from $200-300 each online. Be careful though, as the cat for California emissions is different from the regular cat--it has the bank 1 pre-cat and is physically shorter than the non-California cat. I have had good luck with RockAuto. I think Walker is the OEM supplier of Toyota's exhaust for the 1MZ. Are you in California?

Has anybody used this sport suspension kit? Part number 969075 for the 1994-96 Camry V6 (same as ES300) (part number 969080 is for 97-01 V6 Camry/ES300/Avalon) The going price is around $600

Use quick struts. They include the spring, the mounts, which also go bad. Not to mention it will be easier to do, much less time and work (no spring compressor needed!) They only list rear struts for the V6 Camry and ES300, and they are very expensive. So instead, I plan on using the quick struts for the four-cylinder Camry (cheaper, more brands available too). I don't really think this will be a problem because I know that the 5S-FE is only about 10 lb lighter than the 1MZ-FE. eBay has all four for under $400, and Rock Auto has Raybestos brand quick struts for about $500 (for all four). Unfortunately KYB quick struts are only available for the XV20 third-gen ES300/fourth-gen Camry.

When I bought the car it had been involved in an accident on the left side, and I can tell the kinda half-assed the repairs. I bought it because it is in fairly good mechanical shape and only cost me three digits. Anyway, my key doesn't work in the driver's door because they didn't switch the lock cylinders. So I have to lock and unlock it from the passengers side. When I open the drivers door after unlocking it, the dome light does not come on, nor does the light in the door. The locks and window switches on the drivers door *do* work, though. When I open the passenger door, the interior light comes on like it should, and the light inside the passenger door comes on, but not the drivers door. Also, after I shut the car off, the clock stays on! The clock is *always* running no matter what. Is this normal? Also, the headlights stay on after shutting the car off as well.

Yes, the YZZD1 replaces the G1. The main difference seems to be that the new filter is made in Thailand rather than the US: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1452684 Sometimes when they switch suppliers the part number changes very slightly.

Does anybody know a place that has new leather (doesn't have to be real leather) for the shifter? I can find plenty of seat covers and steering wheels but none for the shifter!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1992-1996-LEXUS-ES300-LEFT-SIDE-HEADLIGHT-/230685954742?hash=item35b5f452b6&item=230685954742&pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr Look at the lens--it's fluted as opposed to the clear lenses that came on the ES300. (typical clear lens): http://img.auctiva.com/imgdata/2/2/0/8/5/2/webimg/503712267_tp.jpg On the first one (the headlight I'm talking about), although maybe you might think the picture isn't the actual item, I recognize the shape of the assembly, and also the low-beam projector that is clearly visible

Extended oil change is not a gimmick, but you still need to change the oil at least once a year. Some cars have an oil life monitor (mainly GM and European cars) that takes into account engine speed, coolant temp, ambient temp, etc. everything that affects oil life and recommends an interval based on that information. The Euro cars are usually calibrated for synthetic oil while GM usually isn't. I saw a Grand Am recommend 7000 miles (on regular oil--that car's computer is not calibrated for synthetic!), and BMW and Mercedes can go up to 20000 miles (synthetic) On my 96 ES300 I use 0W-30 Mobil 1, once a year (usually about 8000-10000 miles), with a matching Mobil 1 filter (they often go on sale for about $30 for five quarts and the filter). Their high-mileage oils are also very good. You don't necessarily need Extended Performance, but of course it wouldn't hurt! Castrol Edge/Syntec 0W-30 is another good one (but ONLY the 0W-30), it's also known as GC or "German Castrol" As for oil filters, Mobil 1, K&N*, Bosch Distance Plus, and Purolator PureONE seem like the best. The PureONE has a sandpaper coating, making it very easy to install and remove (instead of getting slippery from the oil) and it's only about $5 *NOTE: Unlike their air filters, K&N *oil* filters are very good. I know about the controversy surrounding them that other members highlighted, but it doesn't apply to the oil filters. Honestly, nay oil filter will be good except Fram. They're made of cardboard. "Anything other than Fram" is the most important part about selecting an oil filter. And 123k isn't high mileage to a Camry!

It's done, everything seems to be working good, I passed inspection

Just got back from the junkyard, here it is!

When I tried to take pictures of it, the final wire broke off! Why do make these thing so fragile?

1996 ES300, upstream, Bank 1 sensor 1 (the back, by the firewall) Problem: first, I cannot disconnect it from the harness. Second, on the harness side, three out of the four wires broke off in a way that I cannot map out how they used to be connected and replacements are not available. Also, I found the sensor tied to a big rubber hose with one of those plastic cable ties, so of course it will not budge. Now the old sensor will not screw back in. I only have a week to figure it out or junk it and find a new car (due for inspection last month, got rejected so I have till the end of this month) http://cabletoolpros.com/images/4ct-ct11bk.jpg

UPDATE: I think the connectors to the ignition coils are no good. I know the one for cylinders 3 and 6 (located on #6) is no good. I saw a little white sheath sticking up from that connector. I pulled it and off and the two wires were kind of hanging loose, not tight as they should be. I pried the wires back into place and then snapped the connector back on. I successfully drove it about 6 miles (3 miles each way) with no further drama. I hope this is what it was. It would make sense because it doesn't necessarily mean that any coils or plugs are bad (hence no P030x misfires) Sorry I forgot to take any pictures, but I can't go back and take any now because if I take the connector off again it might not go back on! Now, how would you replace those connectors by any chance?

The oxygen sensor code is P0135, which I've had for awhile The only codes I have are P0135 and P1300 Yes I used Bosch plugs (4301) and NGK wires (the blue ones). Nobody seems to carry the twin-ground NGK plugs, I think the part number would be 3452 Surprisingly neither company makes coils But why wouldn't it throw any 'regular' misfire codes (P030x)? Before replacing the plugs, the check engine light would blink sometimes, and I had most of the P030x codes, including P0300, but they never came back after replacing the plugs.

I got new spark plugs about 6 months ago, maybe 5000 miles ago and yes I used the proper twin-ground platinum plugs

I drove my car today for a bit, and it kept shutting off. I was able to restart it fine, but then after a few minutes it would shut off again. Repeat about 10x Now my car will start up but then it shuts off immediately! I also have check engine light code P1300, but no misfire codes P03xx (misfire in cylinder x) This is the only code I have besides the oxygen sensor that I already knew about.