Do Not Sell My Personal Information Jump to content

Mike B.

Regular Member
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About Mike B.

  • Rank
    Club Member

Contact Methods

  • First Name

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Lexus Model
  • Lexus Year
  • Location
    Virginia (VA)
  1. Difficult to diagnose a car over the internet but based on what you've posted I would be looking at a possible low charge, partially blocked condenser or a failing compressor. Possible the expansion valve is clogged as well. You need to hook up gauges and read high/low side pressure. That will give you a starting point.
  2. Your condenser fan is not working. Either the electric fan has failed or the relay may not be working. It works as you drive because you get airflow over the condensor, when you are not moving no airflow and this causes head pressure to rise until it shuts off the compressor. I'd venture a guess that both are related, I can't remember anymore but based on your symptoms I'm guessing it has a single fan so it pulls double duty. It isn't working so airflow over the condenser and radiator is insufficient.
  3. This will not effect engine performance at all. It will not effect reliability at all. The only reason the VSC light is on is the ECM is so crude it cannot distinguish between codes that are pertinent to the vsc system so it shuts it down any time there is an engine code. You could theoretically drive the car forever with that code and never have a seconds issue. It will, unfortunately, stop the car from passing a smog check.
  4. I'll be replacing my struts fairly soon. I'll be using either Monroe quick struts or, if available, kyb quickstruts. Stock ride is far too soft for me, from what I have found online either the Monroe or KYB struts will tighten the ride up without taking away from the ride quality.
  5. To the OP. If you started using synthetic at 70k and now have 123k with no leaks don't let anyone here talk you out of using synthetic as it's working for you. I would still maintain changes at no more than 7,500 miles. Because my car always had dino oil and I bought it with 130k on it I use a high mileage blend. Changing on a regular basis is by far more important than what you use (as long as it's reasonably decent). Take care of your ES and it will take care of you.
  6. If the noise is coming from under the hood then it's possible the A/C compressor or clutch is failing. If it's inside the vehicle then the blower motor bearings are failing.
  7. My only concern with a high mileage vehicle and pure synthetic oil is leaks. If you aren't experiencing any leaks then that's not an issue here. I'd say 10w30 in FL probably is a good combination. As for the mileage you are correct that synthetic oil does not lose viscosity like real oil but particulates are still a problem. I personally wouldn't go over 7,500 miles on synthetic oil and 5,000 on dino oil.
  8. Well, the Boston Acoustics that I purchased were on ebay. I paid $78 for the front speakers and $55 for the rear speakers. All were brand new.
  9. Well, I have a 2000 ES that is equipped with the stock Pioneer system. I changed out the speakers only (not even the sub yet). Major, major upgrade in sound quality. I purchased Boston Acoustics ES series speakers front and rear. The stock speakers are single cone full range in the rear and use an add on tweeter in front but still use a full range driver in the doors. Result is muddied mid range and harsh, tinny high range. The Boston speakers I put in the rear are coax speakers and component speakers in front. Nice clear and defined high end, very open and much better soundstage. You'll have
  10. The seat backs have side airbags, they would not work. The driver's seat has a lumbar support that is not present in the passenger seat. Cannot be done.
  11. The speakers are a major weak link in the audio system. All things being equal, I'd rather replace the speakers and keep the stock head unit - that will make a much more significant improvement in sound quality.
  12. Depends, you need to check after a warm soak and see if it's a fuel issue or a spark issue. Right now you are just guessing.
  13. Well, the mass airflow sensor generates a code of it's own if it's malfunctioning. OTOH, the intake air temp sensor could be an issue although it too should set a code. As for the transmission, I would check the connections to the transmission controller for corrosion and pack them with dielectric grease.
  14. The only thing that's going to look like HIDs are HIDs. If that's what you want then that's what you'll have to get. If you want a whiter looking light then the Silverstar Ultras and the Philips Xtreme Powers will give you a whiter than stock light.
  15. The two are unrelated. Would venture a guess that you might have a broken IACV. Not a fuel filter, if so it would've stalled out when you floored it.
  • Create New...