MrLatifa

Did your vehicle show any other codes? Im not really one to replace sensors because of age, always test first. Seems like its a parts crapshoot anymore. Be sure to replace the spark plugs with oem style, not the cheapies. I think they take double platinum? I dont recall, be sure to ask the parts people. Also, spark plug wires. Beldens arent cheap, but the fitment was a mechanics dream! Usually I try to stick with a tune-up when I buy a car. After the tune-up, THEN i begin my search for the other things. A scanner with live data and perhaps freeze frame, will save you from spending hundreds on costly parts guessing. Be sure and take care of the valve covers, and dont be surprised when they leak again. Just dont fall into the temptation of replacing things just because youre already there. Always keep in mind of the quality of parts you are replacing it with, and sometimes things dont like to be removed. Kind of a line to walk between "aint broke dont fix it" , and properly maintained. Best of luck, talk with your mechanic, he will help you more than anything else..

18 months of 7hr day school training, handful of expired and current ASE, Mecp mobile electronics certified -or was-, GM trained in certain sub-systems, 8yrs as lead tech for local garage, handful of months at a dealership (so damn crooked, took a 75% pay cut to leave!!). Ive done everything from muckin about with the Vanos timing setup on BMW's, chasing down that pesky fan controller on dodge vans, rewiring/rerouting engine harnesses, rebuilding transmissions, beating the hell out of ball-joints and suspensions, rebuilding engines from nasty gritty block up. Ive worn out 2 alignment machines (corded and the new wireless..o boy), diagnosing numerous engine problems that span EVERY DAMN CAR you could imagine, welding brake brackets back to smooth, retapping bolt holes, resoldering the random circuit board, and torching metals until they succomb to my wrench. I don't let anyone work on any of my personal cars, not even to change the oil. NONE of my cars has gone to the crusher because i COULDNT fix it. I know this town, and am aware of the majority of technical skill being currently sold to the public here. Lets just say I dont like the odds. I used to actauly LIKE working on cars. If you like messing with cars, Dont work for a shop!! Did I mention I do all this 45hrs a week for currently less than $20,000 a year? Not complaining it was an informed decision..... MONEY ONLY BUYS THE ILLUSSION OF HAPPINESS.... (oh, and lotsa cool stuff too)

Sounds like a panel going bad. I would assume it is a solid-state controlled device combo/switch. Maybe the dealer will apply the diagnostic towards installation, if it finds to be the controller? Personally, I'd give it the old "smack" test. If it changed at all on the panel, I'd go to the connector(s), do the "wiggle" test and then go from there.

Smooth as silk. Now I notice a slight click when coming to a complete stop in reverse. Only during the first stop of course. Further inspection revealed a less than perfect pad fit. So very minute, that I will wait until the mountains wear out the current pad set. At that time I'll probably order a quality pad to replace, and freshen up any hardware that doesn't look perfect. Oh, still waiting on my new tires and wheels. OF COURSE I can feel the slightest vibration of a not perfect wheel. Noone else notices it, but I do. Soon to be remedied! At that time, I'm sure something even more minute will become apparent. Hopefully, the leaky power-steering rack doesnt get worse. ha!

100 miles from the dealership my new car started to vibrate and shake. So, heres the money invested in repairs thus far. Before everyone complains, I know that if one looks hard enough they can find better parts prices. I also know that most quality shops buy what they know is quality, from who they know they can trust. Anyhow, here's what's been spent thus far, in the persuit of a perfectly smooth ride. this total doesnt include the $550 spent on tires or the $500 spent on wheels.

Coil perhaps? feel like im on a gameshow. What color are the wires EXACTLY? One could look thru the schematics and see, but it would be easier to look at the engine bay I would think... Where it came from (exactly), would be invaluable at this point.

Rear rotors. With more solid mounts, the vibration may be more felt. If its only when you apply the brakes, makes sense its in the braking system...ROTORS. If you feel it in your butt, its the rears, if you see it in the steering wheel, its the fronts. Take em to a shop, have em micrometer them, check for federal specs, and either replace or have them resurfaced. Good time to replace pads as well. Just think about it when you drive..... if its a transmission or engine problem, wouldnt it change if you accelerated or changed gears, while the brakes WEREN'T applied? Hope this helps...

The code indicates a problem in the "engine speed sensor". It can also be induced by skipping of the timing belt teeth, or an excessively stretched belt. Of course it can hinge on the cam sensors, but typically you'd think a code(s) 17 and 18 as well. The crankshaft "ESS" is loacted on the lower rhs (looking at it) of the crank pulley. Its a simple 2 wire. 8-12degrees timing at 750rpm idle. I recently checked my timing belt, and it was actually simple to check and wouldnt be as bad as it seems to replace. Anyhow, hope this helps give you something cheaper to do, before you start buying parts.

Sounds like your definately searching in the right spots. Not to sound simple, but did you clean the throttle plate and reset the fuel trim via battery? Looks like the maf is a VERY expensive part, so perhaps being obdII, you can check to make sure its showing a decent flow at regular idle rpms. Dont forget to look at the tps value while you've got the scanner hooked in. Hell, you should be able to check the long and short term fuel trims on the meter. Looks like the vehicle can be equipped with a few diff egr setups, visual inspection required to determine. If it aint electronic, its a cinch to test and clean. Remember to clean the passages as well. At least the ideas to start with DONT include spending much money... Let us know with anything else you may find. *I dont think the overheating issue is a cooling problem, rather induced by low rpms. please watch ur temps until this gets figured out. *

HOORAY!! Got the piece out of the end of the crank. When I went to center punch it to drill for a tap, it actually just cocked sideways and was pulled straight out. A local torque converter shop got me a rebuilt converter for $120, and I ordered a used flexplate from ebay. After checking my flex plates for runout and balance (on a wheel balancer ha!), I ended up reusing the original and decided my purchase was a wasted $35. Upon installing the new converter and putting it all back together........smooth as a cucumber! The vibration that was giving me such a hard time is gone!! Persistence and a ton of free labor and wham, fixed! Vibration: cyclic vibration in nuetral,park and while moving in drive. The vibration begins to be felt at about 1400rpm and increases in speed and amplitude as rpm's rise. *note : supporting the engine from the mounts via stand/jack, only isolate the engine and transmission from the body. It was determined the vibration wasnt from the exhaust mount locations, so the support test does ABSOLUTELY NOTHING to help aid in further diagnosis. Mounts only dampen small inherent vibrations. Mounts WILL NOT stop the origination of the vibration!! Solution: Replaced torque converter, pilot nose on old converter found to be broken, allowing slight misalignment of converter to flywheel installation. (mine was obviously damaged by the previous technician installing a rear main seal, previous owner noted vibration but ignored it for how slight it was.) NOT SOLUTIONS: Engine mounts, transmission mounts, tires, wheels, brakes, and all that other crap. What Ive learned is that no ammount of forum reading can take the place of a well informed mechanic that has been down those roads. My first guess was in the converter, I shoulda just did that first. Hope this helps anyone out there that has tried all the regular mounts and crap. Be sure to inspect the converter and the harmonic dampener on the front, BEFORE spending a fortune on rubber mounts.....

awesome, thanks!

+1 clean clean clean. I usually disconnect the battery to reset things at the same time! MAF sensors can make idle go funnny as well. Fuzz attractors i call 'em. I think your car has one. haha Let us know, but Curious made a good suggestion.

OOOH, was i right? I gotta know, is there another cabin filter? Now its stuck in my head like the "yellow submarine" song.

Using a synthetic for a car that doesnt see many miles, and sits a long time...Makes perfect sense. Synthetics contain different detergents, and Id bet synthetics maintain their "mix" better as it sits for extended periods? Anyhow, well put, I like your style. As for running a blend to go to dino oil... not necessary. Quiet a few places are using "synthetic blend" oil, and I'm guessing its a blend. lol Anyhow, If I had a brand new car that was shipped to me with synthetic....I'd run it until the first hint of an oil leak. 50-80k miles. Then I'd switch to dino oil and that would be that... Unless....theres special circumstances. I KNOW toyota oil and air filters are of good quality, also I find that WIX is good quality and more available to me. There are only a handful of filter manufacturers that sell under 100's of names. Kinda like oil. I would NOT use a k&n reusable filter. For a filter to flow more air, it is stopping less dirt.. These cars from factory, are setup to flow a fairly precise ammount of air. Unless you make other engine modifications, I wouldnt see much gain in "allowing" the engine to breathe more. Your car only needs so much air. In a non-turbo engine, the physical mechanics of the engine, allow only so much vacuum to the throttle plates, at any given rpm. True, you remove an air filter and your car may free rev easier, but think of how much money and time Lexus spent on deciding what exact intake piping and fuel mapping to use. Ive noticed that as you reduce the restricion caused by an air filter (the car was designed to have), you lose some of the smooth acceleration. Last k&n filter I installed on a customers 3.1liter, 85k miles on it, he blew the mains while free reving it to let his buddies hear how cool it sounded. Anyhow, I prefer to err on the side of caution. Of course, if youve made modifications to the internal engine, you would know what youre needing, and longevity takes a back seat. Its time to clean a K&N air filter when umm....... Hell i dunno, last one I cleaned was the LAST ONE I'll ever clean. lol

The light will remain on until the vehicle goes through two "drive cycles". When the computer sees that the matter has been resolved, the light will go out and the "current" code will clear. If the vehicle has not been driven enough or has not been repaired, the light will stay on and the code will remain "current". I was unaware of that. thanks for the clarity.