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Egr Pipe


tansupplyman
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With reference to the EGR pipe going from the top of the right exhaust header(before cat.) to the back of the intake manifold: has anyone here either replaced it, seen it done, or talked to someone who did???????

I do have a leak in mine[ in the expansion bellows, that is in the horizontal portion behind the engine]. Have known for a while--but was 'hoping' it would go away.

It is obvious when the engine is cold but seems to go away when it warms up. This is contrary to manual that says the EGR valve is closed below 157 degrees and open above 157 SINCE it also says it is CLOSED at idle. Why would the noise reduce if the valve is still closed at idle after it warms up !!? Anyway, that is not the issue.

I would like to replace the pipe myself[i have a Autolifter and can raise the car about 7' off the floor--so I have access] but am wondering why I see the 8-10 hours labor listed in the posts. Do you have to drop the transmission or pull the engine--heaven forbid !!!!?

Need to know if you can rotate the pipe to get it out[it looks very tight w/ the bends at the top]; also, does it come out the top or bottom; do you have to remove the right cat. if it comes out the bottom.

TKS for any help--just curious what may be involved in this--or do I just have to ignore it!!!! Does anyone know FOR SURE??

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Sorry to be of no help to you, but I've been told I've got a broken EGR pipe, too. I've never investigated it, nor are there obvious symptoms that I've noticed.

Since you've looked into yours....do you happen to have a digital camera to post a picture of what your problem is, or maybe a diagram from a manual? I really don't even know where to look for the "break".

Joe

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Know that--it is why I am asking!! :o

There is also a bolt that holds a bracket[welded to the pipe] that is screwed into the block.

I can only see it with a mirror and flashlite--haven't reached with my fingers--if possible----but headed back to the garage.

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May think about a block if replacement is too big a deal. BUT, would not consider bending the pipe over---doubt very seriously if this could even be done--how can you bend it if you can hardly touch it?? Note that the noise occurs only when the engine is cold (that itself is unusual since the EGR valve is NC at idle)

For a 'block', would think the simplest thing to do is to remove the 2 nuts on the studs of the exhaust header,pry up, and slide a thin piece of metal under the flange next to the gasket to cover the hole. Even this may be tough.

I concur that blocking the EGR should not be detrimental to the performance of the car--not much oxygen or fuel in the old exhaust gas !!!!

BUT, the car does have to pass emissions testing and if the NOx [lowered by the purpose of the EGR] is too high, you can't drive it.

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Good news!

You can unbolt the EGR pipe at the exhaust end, bend it over flat, and simply reinstall. No exhaust noise and the engine ecu doesn't seem to give a hoot about recieving fresh airflow.

This is a bad idea. The EGR is there for a reason..to be excessive gas in the intake manifold. Deleting this will prevent your vehicle from passing state spection and can damange the cats. You will need to get a swivel 1/4 socket. I did a couple of these in the past. It's not too bad. Took me about 1 hr. Don't take it to the dealer....They ususally charge 5-6hrs of labor.

www.jpimportz.org

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JPI--please be more specific[since you have done this]:

Are you saying that the pipe can be removed by twisting and pulling it free?

Does it come out from the bottom or from the top?

If from the bottom, does the rt. cat. need to be removed?

Can the new one be inserted without any major problem??

Did you have a problem removing and reinstalling the middle bolt holding it to the engine block--have to use a mirror and flashlite to even get a glimpse of this bolt-appears to be very difficult to remove--a blind installation.

TKs for your reply.

I am seriously trying to find out if it can be done without dropping the tranny or removing the intake as many have said. It does look to be questionable. Would certainly prefer a replacement rather than a replacement.

Glenmore---do you know how the dealer did it--curious??

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You will have to do this from the bottom. A 1/4 swivel socket is needed, TAKE YOUR TIME AND DO NOT CROSSTHREADED ANYTHING. Some dealership drop the tranny to replace this pipe, It does take some skill and a lot of cussing. You will need a lift, forget about floor jack.

www.jpimportz.org

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  • 7 months later...
You will have to do this from the bottom. A 1/4 swivel socket is needed, TAKE YOUR TIME AND DO NOT CROSSTHREADED ANYTHING. Some dealership drop the tranny to replace this pipe, It does take some skill and a lot of cussing. You will need a lift, forget about floor jack.

www.jpimportz.org

Yes, only can be done from the bottom after you removed exhaust pipe (both side). It took me about total of 10 hours to have it removed and capped the two holes and put exhaust pipe back. I won't be able to have new EGR pipe back. I don't think bent the pipe to be flat will work as there is really no room to have the end of pipe to be inserted. I'm think to cut my new EGR pipe into two pieces nearby top of bent area and once the two ends and middle 12mm bolt are being installed, i'm going to use muffler patch material along with gearhose clamps... how is that sound.

After my seal or capped the two hols, the car runs great no ugly noise but with check-engine light is on :)

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What exactly breaks on the EGR pipe? Does the pipe crack or wear through? Do you think it might be possible to get something like JB Weld or something up in there to seal the crack?

my 93 ls400 with 116k miles EGR pipe has 3 damages; one is at the end of top end which is complete broken dur to vibration, 2 wear through slots in accordian or expansion contraction area which from bottom I barely can see onle one implicitly. Since new one only cost me $140, i decided to get new one installed which could last anohter 9 years.

there is not way to seal the crack in accordian area. there is no room to do anyting.

Now I had pipe removed but find not way to get new EGR pipe installed without remove the transmission. Any idea?

My proposal is to make new pipe cut into two pieces at the top bent or end area and find way to seal to make them connected. should work but again, not too much room to do that so i might end up to make a 2 inch long coupling with inner sise 16mm...

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hello, regarding egr pipe replacement, ived used a stainless steel braided hose, just bring the two ends to be connected to a hose shop and they ll make it for you, this is more durable and can withstand any vibration due to worn out engine and tranny mounts, works great, one time replacement lasts forever, same function. :lol:

also i think 95ls400bob did for his power steering hose he had a hose shop fabricate him one,

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EGR Replacement is a big job.... most of common area of crack is lower 1/3 of the pipe.... If i have that problem.. i would take it a mechanic... Its a huge job... Its one 4 bolts.. but its very hard to get into....

The top two screws is easy.... but the passenger side header is difficult...

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hello, lextreme youre right about this egr pipe its a pain but for some that wants it done by himself i guess its worth the challenge, btw were neighbors, am in w covina, pm me your address,if you dont mind, ill swing by to check your single turbo project, hows the progress on this?

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it actually has 5 bolts, the middle one is the most difficult one to be removed. as for bottom end of pipe, you need to removed exhaust pipe to get more room. I did removed my broken one and know how to approach it again. But i will say, ti might still take me 5 hours to removed.

but the probelm is how to get it installed withooug removing Transmission?

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  • 2 months later...
hello, regarding egr pipe replacement, ived used a stainless steel braided hose, just bring the two ends to be connected to a hose shop and they ll make it for you, this is more durable and can withstand any vibration due to worn out engine and tranny mounts, works great, one time replacement lasts forever, same function. :lol:

also i think 95ls400bob did for his power steering hose he had a hose shop fabricate him one,

- I just tried this suggestion on my 1992 LS400 and it didn't work. :( I took the failed EGR pipe to a hose shop and they did a fairly decent job of replacing the accordion section with braided stainless steel (w/ teflon lining) The fix only lasted a few days before the lining was breached and the exhaust gas began coming out through the braided section. So its a nice idea but it didn't work. I suspect the problem is either the exhaust gas temp is too high for the lining or the hose can't stretch lengthwise as much as the accordion can. I ended up having to take that fix out and put in a new OEM EGR pipe. (My mechanic was not too excited about doing it again but it took him less time the second time around) :whistles:

The original pipe failure was two cracks in the accordion section. They are clearly fatigue cracks which means they will inevitably and eventually appear again on the new pipe. Witha all due respects to Lexus, the EGR pipe arrangement on this model is simple a badly engineered design.

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  • 1 month later...

Stainless Steel Braided Lines are great but its doesn't stand a chance against the hot exhaust gas. I am in the progress of making an EGR Delete Kit. Its a three block plates along with a resistor. The kit will take care of you EGR problem forever.

I also found out the EGR pipe crack will cause the "Check Engine" light to comes on too.

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How to you see it to know it is cracked? I looked on mine and all I could see was the very top of the tube going down by the firewall. From what I have read it seems it is neccessary to put the car on a lift and remove the exhaust headers to put yourself in a position to do a nearly impossible job. It sounds like the only proper way to do this is to remove the transmission. And yeah, I'll give a second on the bad engineering statement.

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