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Oil Change Lexus Dealer Versus Toyota Dealer - 5k Or 3k


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I've always had oil changes done at the Lexus dealer, and he only recommends changing every 5k miles. Recently, I was at the Toyota dealer to get the timing belt replaced, and since the guy assured me that they use the same "Toyota" oil that Lexus dealers do, there would be no difference in an oil change either. So to save myself time, I went ahead and had that done also. Thing is, the sticker on my windshield now says my next oil change is after 3k miles.

Does this mean that the Toyota dealer actually used a different oil? or can I continue to go 5k miles between oil changes? FWIW, the car now has almost 100k miles. This is for a 1998 es300.

Thanks.

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Chances are they both use the cheapest oil money can buy.. but with lexus there may be a slight chance that they actually used bottled oil depending on your dealer. The manufacturer recommends 5k intervals I believe, it doesn't matter what the guy wrote on your sticker.

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buddy as your car gets older, it will need more oil changes, because it is not going to be clean looking if you disassemble the whole motor. An engine looks brown inside usually and when oil hit the side of the inside block, it is removing contaminants and lubricating dirty colored parts. Making yoou change your oil more than usuall. Remember every 3K miles change your oil. DO NOT FORGET!!!

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I usually go by what the owners manual maintenance schedule states......both my previous 2001 ES & my current 2005 ES say every 6 months or 5,000 miles (although I have always used synthetic oil, not dino). :)

:cheers:

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Not gonna turn this into an oil debate, as I am sure people will post :), but if you are blindy going for a duration. 7,500 miles for normal and like 6000 for severe; This is for DINO too.

Synthetic oils can go 8 to 10,000 miles without any issues. These number are on the conservative side, bigtime; aka no UOA.

For me I would not even blink at going 13,000 to 15,000 miles (and over 1-year) on a synthetic oil.

For me, Lexus is behind the times on oil and their manuals have HUGE built in FOS, bigtime.

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but what about oil filter. do you change oil filter @5000 or all the way 15,000 miles.

Thanks,

I use Amsoil Eao (for time saver, best media out there...) and for 15,000 no problems. I would not have a problem taking a K&N oil filter over 10,000 miles and a hastings/napa gold out 7,500+ miles.

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I cleaned up the thread.

DO NOT degrade this thread into another oil war. Give your opinions to the OP and move on.

IMHO, you're better off doing it every 5k miles. Oil changes are cheap, cheap assurance and when you go to sell the car having only done oil changes every 10k miles when the manual says 5k is going to hurt you in the eyes of a buyer.

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mburnickas,

Thanks again, i am thinking to go from syn.blend(Castrol) to amsoil full syn + EA057 filter.

Hope that comination will good for 15,000 miles.

which syn. you use.?

Thanks,

I like Amsoil 0w-20 (with Lc20) since my engine loves it. I had used there 5w-30 which ran okay but the other is better. I would go 10,000 miles and test. Then do 3 more tests at 10,000 miles and then you have a baseline. Then you got it.

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See this is my opinion. Pushing your oil like that and testing is a game for you and you enjoy it. When you add up the costs of running the same oil and testing it all the time and compare it to the cost of changing the oil every 5k miles, I bet you wouldn't save much. Some, sure, but not enough to make it worth it down the line when you have to sell a buyer on your oil analysis, etc. I for instance would never buy your car, especially knowing the history that engine has with oil sludge.

I run Mobil 1 synthetic and change every 5k miles...and when its changed the oil is dirty.

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It is not a game SW. I do (3) tests to contruct a baseline and then I KNOW it works. Also I am not PUSHING the oil as you state. I am working it as it is designed. If I did, the UOA's would show that in low ZAAP, higher NOX/OXD, higher wears, high TAN, etc (which they DO NOT).

You would never buy my car since I KNOW how it is performing. Come on SW! There is more uncertainty in your car then mine. That is a fact here. I have pix of the internals and UOA's. And you have what here...nothing

So now oil color means something…You are too much.. black oil is not integral to oil performance etc. You would know that if you tested, which you clearly do not. I also do UOA to see how the engine is doing since they have saved my a$$ before in other engines.

PS. I was doing over 10,000+ miles on my old Powerstroke Diesel when I traded it in at the Lexus dealer. The service manager saw it, saw what I did to it (and UOA's) and it was sold to him before I traded it in. So it is not a road block when people understand what importance it is.

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is this oil recommended? 0-20w, hell no. Use your SAE 5-w30, I am not being a jerk to you burnickas or trying to ruin your opinion. But you need to be running the oil that is recommended in the owners manual. They know what is right for your engine, and if you fail to listen, you probably arent going to be to happy when your driving to work for your boss is p'd off and you are late becuase your motor blew up from overheating and oil consumption. Change your 5w30 every 3-5 thousand miles. I RECOMMEND IT!

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is this oil recommended? 0-20w, hell no. Use your SAE 5-w30, I am not being a jerk to you burnickas or trying to ruin your opinion. But you need to be running the oil that is recommended in the owners manual. They know what is right for your engine, and if you fail to listen, you probably arent going to be to happy when your driving to work for your boss is p'd off and you are late becuase your motor blew up from overheating and oil consumption. Change your 5w30 every 3-5 thousand miles. I RECOMMEND IT!

You crack me up......Gee, my oil tests are better then the 5w-30 and Lexus does not use 5w-30 anymore. Oil in the manual is a JOKE. They are behind the times. Example, I need an SL rated oil...give me a break. Plus you can use ow-20 in place of a 5w-20/30 and be 100% fine. Hell, I use 5w-30 in a diesel engine that calls for 15w-40; which is too thick.

Again you and others in the forum/thread THINK 3 to 5 K miles gets you something. Prove it with showing me the data? You nor anyone on this thread can since you are all guessing; that is a fact here. I know how my engine is running and oil duration etc is a benefits. Which you all are lacking.....Again fact and I have stated that many times. If you are not testing you are guessing on oil performance.

Oil consumption has nothing to do with oil weight! See, you need to stop posting on oils since you are posting BS. Fact here

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is this oil recommended? 0-20w, hell no. Use your SAE 5-w30, I am not being a jerk to you burnickas or trying to ruin your opinion. But you need to be running the oil that is recommended in the owners manual. They know what is right for your engine, and if you fail to listen, you probably arent going to be to happy when your driving to work for your boss is p'd off and you are late becuase your motor blew up from overheating and oil consumption. Change your 5w30 every 3-5 thousand miles. I RECOMMEND IT!

You crack me up......Gee, my oil tests are better then the 5w-30 and Lexus does not use 5w-30 anymore. Oil in the manual is a JOKE. They are behind the times. Example, I need an SL rated oil...give me a break. Plus you can use ow-20 in place of a 5w-20/30 and be 100% fine. Hell, I use 5w-30 in a diesel engine that calls for 15w-40; which is too thick.

Again you and others in the forum/thread THINK 3 to 5 K miles gets you something. Prove it with showing me the data? You nor anyone on this thread can since you are all guessing; that is a fact here. I know how my engine is running and oil duration etc is a benefits. Which you all are lacking.....Again fact and I have stated that many times. If you are not testing you are guessing on oil performance.

Oil consumption has nothing to do with oil weight! See, you need to stop posting on oils since you are posting BS. Fact here

well you dont have to be a smarty pants, oil is cheap, fun to change, and easy to deal with. The thinner stuff gets hot, and will boil if the motor heats up enough. trust me I know man. Stop tellinf me I am posting Bull*BLEEP*. I can post what I want, try stopping me. I am a member and so are you. We are aarguing over oil, its 2 buchs or less a quart, big deal. Did you make the engine, noo toyota did. Who puts 0w-30 in their motor. ONLY YOU DO. YOU ARE THE FIRST PERSON TO USE THAT CRAP THAT I HAVE EVER SEEN. that stuff would suck. do not put the bozo clowns recommended oil in your car. he wants to see you come here *BLEEP*ed off. Until I find this oil thing works, i am going to be arguing here. If it works, I will beg for some forgiveness.

:D sorry if i am sounding like a moron

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well you dont have to be a smarty pants, oil is cheap, fun to change, and easy to deal with. The thinner stuff gets hot, and will boil if the motor heats up enough. trust me I know man. Stop tellinf me I am posting Bull*BLEEP*. I can post what I want, try stopping me. I am a member and so are you. We are aarguing over oil, its 2 buchs or less a quart, big deal. Did you make the engine, noo toyota did. Who puts 0w-30 in their motor. ONLY YOU DO. YOU ARE THE FIRST PERSON TO USE THAT CRAP THAT I HAVE EVER SEEN. that stuff would suck. do not put the bozo clowns recommended oil in your car. he wants to see you come here *BLEEP*ed off. Until I find this oil thing works, i am going to be arguing here. If it works, I will beg for some forgiveness.

:D sorry if i am sounding like a moron

For me, oil is not cheap, I have better things to do, environmental impact. Oil gets hot and oil viscosity has nothing to do with it getting hot. Yup, oil boils (wow, nothing new) in all gas cars/engines and that means ZERO. Oil has a flash point and fire point WELL ABOVE boiling. Changing oil at some short internal will not prevent this nor will using a thinner or thicker do anything. It comes down to basestocks and adds here. If you want better protection use a real group 4/5.

If you are using <$2 oil you are using crap dino oil, unlike myself. And you might NEED to change less or more but you have no clue. The point is only (1) person in this threads really know how his engine is running and how well the oil is doing and that is ME. Yup, me and I have the data to support it and others are lacking; as thread has shown.

Lexus built an engine and means nothing they are about 10 to 15 years behind oil standards here. Plus they built engine, not oil. I trust the UOA and not a manual that is built on fluff and legal protection, FOS, MTBF….

I never stated 0w-30 here so please do not put words in my mouth. I put 0w-20 in my engine and lots of people do. How do I know? Since Redline, Mobil, Amsoil etc ALL MAKE IT and not just for me. But Amsoil makes a ow-30 that blows the doors off of there 0w-20. But I guess it is crap by your standards.

If you are sounding like a moron, then stop posting crap. I have oil tests that show these oils work in my ES. And what do you have here?

Try stopping you? You really have no clue here (based on your posts you have little to offer in this area). I am not smart or the best in this area but I do have correct info to post and the years to support my posts.

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if lexus doesnt recommend 5w30 anymore, it must still be 1999 for you, because things dont change on recommendations on past vehicle.

Lexus put out TSB last year about oil and they do not recommend them anymore (from 2007 below). But people think "reccomend" means mandates...

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is this oil recommended? 0-20w, hell no. Use your SAE 5-w30, I am not being a jerk to you burnickas or trying to ruin your opinion. But you need to be running the oil that is recommended in the owners manual. They know what is right for your engine, and if you fail to listen, you probably arent going to be to happy when your driving to work for your boss is p'd off and you are late becuase your motor blew up from overheating and oil consumption. Change your 5w30 every 3-5 thousand miles. I RECOMMEND IT!

You crack me up......Gee, my oil tests are better then the 5w-30 and Lexus does not use 5w-30 anymore. Oil in the manual is a JOKE. They are behind the times. Example, I need an SL rated oil...give me a break. Plus you can use ow-20 in place of a 5w-20/30 and be 100% fine. Hell, I use 5w-30 in a diesel engine that calls for 15w-40; which is too thick.

Again you and others in the forum/thread THINK 3 to 5 K miles gets you something. Prove it with showing me the data? You nor anyone on this thread can since you are all guessing; that is a fact here. I know how my engine is running and oil duration etc is a benefits. Which you all are lacking.....Again fact and I have stated that many times. If you are not testing you are guessing on oil performance.

Oil consumption has nothing to do with oil weight! See, you need to stop posting on oils since you are posting BS. Fact here

well you dont have to be a smarty pants, oil is cheap, fun to change, and easy to deal with. The thinner stuff gets hot, and will boil if the motor heats up enough. trust me I know man. Stop tellinf me I am posting Bull*BLEEP*. I can post what I want, try stopping me. I am a member and so are you. We are aarguing over oil, its 2 buchs or less a quart, big deal. Did you make the engine, noo toyota did. Who puts 0w-30 in their motor. ONLY YOU DO. YOU ARE THE FIRST PERSON TO USE THAT CRAP THAT I HAVE EVER SEEN. that stuff would suck. do not put the bozo clowns recommended oil in your car. he wants to see you come here *BLEEP*ed off. Until I find this oil thing works, i am going to be arguing here. If it works, I will beg for some forgiveness.

:D sorry if i am sounding like a moron

you should listen to mburnickas, he knows more about oil, gas, additives, and the 1MZ (amongst other things) than I or you could ever hope of knowing. for the record, I run GC 0w30 Euro oil now with Lc20 (thanks to mburnickas) and so does just about everyone I know in every kind of car. if your car is boiling 20 or 30w oil and it's a toyota/lexus your engine has problems. I drive my ES harder than you could possibly imagine when I drive it, and my engine is sludge free and clean as a whistle (I also have pics to prove that) and my car has done 131K miles. I run 0W30 GC in all my cars, and swap oil every 5000-7500 miles with my mobil1 filter, once I switch to the Amsoil filter, it's going to 10K miles. please, please listen to mburnickas who is only trying to give this guy some proper advice.

sorry if that was at all harsh, I'm just giving my $.02

-Erik

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You would never buy my car since I KNOW how it is performing. Come on SW! There is more uncertainty in your car then mine. That is a fact here. I have pix of the internals and UOA's. And you have what here...nothing

You misunderstand what I am saying. If I were a carbuyer and I didn't know you and your car was for sale. I would not buy your car because the oil has not been changed as per the manufacturer's reccomendations, whether you showed me a bunch of oil analyses that I didn't really understand or not.

So now oil color means something…You are too much.. black oil is not integral to oil performance etc. You would know that if you tested, which you clearly do not. I also do UOA to see how the engine is doing since they have saved my a$$ before in other engines.

Oil colors absolutely do mean something. If synthetic oil gets black...its taken on something to turn it black. How else otherwise did it get black?

No, I don't do oil analysis. I don't see the point, I change my oil as per my manufacturer's reccomendations and I'm happy with that.

Contrary to what you're saying here I am not stupid or a joke because I don't agree with you.

PS. I was doing over 10,000+ miles on my old Powerstroke Diesel when I traded it in at the Lexus dealer. The service manager saw it, saw what I did to it (and UOA's) and it was sold to him before I traded it in. So it is not a road block when people understand what importance it is.

Yeah the service manager, you think maybe he had some idea what an oil analysis is? Most carbuyers do not, and would simply move on down to the next car from yours instead of listening to you explain it.

I'm not saying you don't know what you're doing, thats certainly not the case. I have stood up for you on this subject many times before and you know that. What I AM saying is that I have absolutely no desire to do what you do, I just change the oil every 5k miles. I enjoy doing what I feel is right for the car, its cheap, and when I go to sell it I'll have a big ol stack of Lexus dealer maintenance records to make sure MY ES is the first on any buyer's list.

Makes me happy. What you need to learn is to be tolerant of other people's viewpoints.

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Then it is the car buyers issue and not mine. I could carless if it is on the list (first of not). It does not matter. That is the funny part is people think a manual means you are fine. They, public are guessing.

Again black oil color means nothing here. If it (black oil) does please prove it since in 15+ years of talking to oil house, not one says black oil means anything. Why you ask since I can put oil in a car engine or (diesel) and have it turn black in 0.5 hours. Again color (black) does not mean anything. That is a fact here. Black oil means there is soot in it, or carbon and that does not or is not integral to engine wear. I could have purple, or clean oil and be fine or bad. Unless you are testing any oil testing person will tell you do not go by black in color.

AS I noted before, years in fact I have see CLEAR oil perform bad and jet black oil give the best wear numbers. So you do not see a point and that is great. My point is I can have double the miles or triple as yours and my wear will be at or below your levels with up to 3X as many miles. That I am very sure of and cost me approx $50 max and less time driving to a dealer or working under car.

I am glad you have stood up for me on this. What I am saying and 99.9% of this forum does not get it or does not understnad it(based on lack of UOA) is that you THINK you change your oil you are fine/golden etc. You are guessing people, blindly too. It is nothing more clear then that. I spend approx $44 to $48 for 15,000+ miles and WILL perform fine (based on real data). I can or cannot do an oil analyis and I know, based on baselines it WILL be fine.

As you stated you are going by a feel. If that makes people happy on a feeling you are fine. Great I would like to SEE the data to support my feeling and not guess or feel okay. That is no way to sleep.

If a carbuyer does not get it, UOA, I will tell them to move along (and have). I even sold my last tractor ($14,500)to a person that said, "wow you are really anal about engine oil". I said no, I trust numbers and not a blind manual. Even he was amazed by the data and said it was great to know how the engine is working.

If you like throwing $$$ away (with 5K drains with Mobil1), you must have free money. I like to use oil for how it is designed and use it for what I paid BUT keep the lowest engine wears. Why throw oil away that is only 30% used???? With those little miles, you are.

I trust manuals as 100% total BS. Why since I have seem what goes into them, the fluff, legal issue to cover the mfg, huge FOS's, MTBF, that is larger then life, etc.

I am very tolerant of perople viewpoints just do not post junk on I recommend it, old cars need more changes, or it is in the manual, or I get a good feeling since these answers are flat-out GUESSING since people have no clue on how your engine is running, oil longeveity, performace, wear, blowbye, fuel etc. Again, people will spend $400+ for an 02 sensor to be installed but will not spend $18 for priceless oil testing. Even the data comes back so a 10 year old can get it...That is amazing in my eyes.

Again if peope want to post I feel good just do not post it has a "fact", cause it ant folks and I can prove them wrong.

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Then it is the car buyers issue and not mine. I could carless if it is on the list (first of not). It does not matter. That is the funny part is people think a manual means you are fine. They, public are guessing.

So you don't care about the value of your property? Why bother changing the oil at all?

I am glad you have stood up for me on this. What I am saying and 99.9% of this forum does not get it or does not understnad it(based on lack of UOA) is that you THINK you change your oil you are fine/golden etc. You are guessing people, blindly too. It is nothing more clear then that. I spend approx $44 to $48 for 15,000+ miles and WILL perform fine (based on real data). I can or cannot do an oil analyis and I know, based on baselines it WILL be fine.

I would guess maybe .5% of people do oil analysis, if even that. So everyone else is just a blind guesser? Its amazing our cars still run.

If you like throwing $$$ away (with 5K drains with Mobil1), you must have free money. I like to use oil for how it is designed and use it for what I paid BUT keep the lowest engine wears. Why throw oil away that is only 30% used???? With those little miles, you are.
.

The oil is $25. Honestly no, $25 is not a lot of money to me. Plus I have faith should I ever have a warranty issue or when I go to sell my car, I will have less problems because I have maintained the car to the factory specifications.

I am very tolerant of perople viewpoints just do not post junk on I recommend it, old cars need more changes, or it is in the manual, or I get a good feeling since these answers are flat-out GUESSING since people have no clue on how your engine is running, oil longeveity, performace, wear, blowbye, fuel etc.

Honestly, no you are not tolerant of people's viewpoints. I know, because I have to make excuses for you when other members and moderators complain about you always driving people who disagree with you to a flamewar. Why is it that we can't have a discussion on this forum about oil? Its because of you. You get downright abusive towards people...

I have owned several vehicles past 100k miles and have always changed my oil as per the manufacturer's specs. It works for me, as it works for the vast majority of car owners as well. What you do works for you which is great, but it is no more "fact" than the way I do it.

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