Toysrme

Before the cat. Unless you have the extremely rare CA emession 3vz-fe, it has no post cat o2 sensor. You can buy wherever you want too, o2 sensors are o2 sensors! They bolt onto the exhaust manifolds. Sorry, I don't have a better picture. It's a single wire.

Code 21 is the bank #1 o2 sensor. Bank 1 is the rear bank. Because the wires get very old and brittle, I suggest finding, and unplugging the contector FIRST, before yanking on anything. You unbolt it (two 10mm bolts if I remember correctly). The replacement sensor should look like this, just newer. You should buy two and change the front sensor also. If you look around online, you can find them for as low as $25. Universal sensors oughta cost about $35. Be sure to put on the new gasket. After changing, remove the EFI fuse (box clsoes to battery) count to one, and replace it. The ECU will be reset.

188hp @ 5200rpm, 203lb-ft @ 4400rpm All-aluminium engine Unleaded premium (91 oct) Curb Weight 3380lbs Should do 0-60mph in 8.7 1/4 mile in 16.6 @ 83-85mph bone stock. 94LexusES300 talk to O.L.T on clublexus. He's a moderator and does custom replacement lighting for the entire dash, A/C, radio controls. Wound up started a web biz. http://www.lextech.org/ That pretty much tips the iceburge on color combinations - if you search on CL, you'll find two completely massive threads with dozens of combinations.

No it wouldn't. It's two speeds, low and high. It should turn to high with the A/C. If you bridge OP1 and E1 in the diagnostics port - the relay will be triggered and it will go to high. If it does not switch to high when you bridge it, more than likely it is unplugged, or damaged. If it does switch to high, but won't turn on with the A/C, the coolant temperature that controls it is more than likely defective.

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/t73377.html http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/t70446.html http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/t64627.html That's enough - 5 min searching at Toyota Nation is pleanty of time. Sure I can... Labor is going to run $75-90 EVERYWHERE. A head gasket is no more than a 4 hour change - You're not looking at a $100 labor differance anywhere in the US - Unless you're getting screwed, or you're getting something in exchange for your money. I.E. - Some dealers will give you a loaner while they work. What are youg etting at??? Do places like Massachusetts, Washing DC, and California have some kind of super-duper parts that make them expencive? Parts, wether chain store aprts, brand parts, or OEM parts - all come to the US from the same factories - are stored and bought from the same places. Parts chains are not supply and demand for a small area when you stop taking the shaft from bad mechanics - it's supply and demand across the entire supply chain. You want to pay $110us/hour for labor, that's fine, but unless they're giving you a free car - there's nothing they can do to make up for the fact that you're getting the shaft. mburnickas no offince, but you're semi-changing the subject, and using examples that are irrelevant to the issue - bending them to suit your viewpoint. It seems to me like you're trying to "defend" high repair costs. So everyone on here is complacient with the (more often than not) outrageous prices from Lexus dealers - and in rare cases, the slightly less outrageous prices from Toyota dealers. You don't think it's outrageous??? Cross check parts... A Lexus dealer will sell you the chrome long-stud lug-nut on an ES for $31. Most Toyota dealers have the same part in stock and sell them for $7.50. Oil filters are worse. When I first checked, they listed at $33 from Lexus - Less than $4 at Toyota. Same part numbers... It goes on and on. You can be happy with over-paying for work and services rendered. I - even if I am the only one - will happily tell people the cold-hard trueth about what the bids should be. I will reiderate - If you think you achive something buy paying more for labor & parts, or get some incintive - then I have noooooo problem with anyone paying more money than it typically should be.

Don't feel bad about not buying an OEM Toyota starter. Honestly... All OEM's have their idiosyncrasies. Honda's use to always rust the exhaust out from water dripping under the car - The starter/solenoid is Toyota's problem. I'm on my fifth starter on two Toyota's. (This Lexus, and a previous 'rolla) I've gotten more life out of both Autozone remanufactured starters (Did two OEM replacement on the 'rolla, and one on this car) you bought than I have brand new OEM Toyota parts. It's not the starters. The built-in solenoids just suck!!! If you *feel* like taking the oem starters a part and cleaning / fixing the solenoids maybe 75-80% of the time you can fix them. Ya know it's just one of those things. Back in the day, the starter & solenoid were separate; so when the solenoid went out you could replace it for cheap. Then everyone decided to make them in the same little unit so instead of paying $5-$15 for a solenoid, you pay $75-$200 for a new unit. Economics rule! LoL! :D Glad you got it running!

This is why I tell people to drop the correct amount of seafoam into the crankcase (oil) with a fresh oil change. You should see the changes such simple cleaners can make on small engines (lawnmower etc). They get so gummed up they simply won't run. Turn them over and let them sit for an hour... bam - good as new.

The timing belt housing comes off to get the belt off. If oil leaks in... It leaks back out. The cover's dont' seal anything, they simply keep "the golden BB" from bouncing up into the timing belt. It depends on the limp mode. When I blew my knock sensor out (5-5 also - damned nitro - methanol injection:D) there really wasn't much of a power / responce decrease. It was there, but not horrible. I never found many limp modes. There is the small limp mode that simply runs extra rich, and there is the big momma that locks you out of overdrive, dumps 100% duration to the injectors at any rpm over idle to keep the engine cool / slow the revving down, and won't let it spin past 4250rpm (like you can get to 4000rpm easy, let alone pass it). I blew a half a tank of gas on a 25 mile trip in ultra limp mode when I first installed my SMT-6.

I don't know why everyone on here is always quoting insanely high prices, but again, you're gettin ripped off. For $1300, you can find mechanics that will change the head gaskets, and everything that's suppose to get changed on the way back out. (pump, belts, gaskets). SKperformance is the only person in the ball-park with what it should cost. Anyone getting initially quoted more than $500usd for a simple water pump & timing belt change needs to stop using Toyota / Lexus mechanics. Even if you add all the seals, keep it under $600 before taxes.

I'm not saying tap or re-tap the holes. They come tapped / threaded. Find the right thread, use them, and they won't break out.

It's OBD-I... They can't pull the code unless they have the specific Toyota box to do so. Open the diagnostics port in the engine bay (behind passanger wheel well), or above the driver's left foot. Short E1 and TE1 with a wire / paperclip / whatever. The dummy lights show the status of the system. They don't believe it because they are right. 99% of the time, an actual knock sensor code is due to the wire grounding out, or to EMI. Buy a used knock sensor off ebay. I had to get one when I destroyed one of mine. If you're really hard up, run one knock sensor. Cut the faulty wire, and splice it into the functioning wire at the ECU. It's a ton easier to take the glove box out, than the upper intake off (If you've never done either). Knock sensor wires are both on B connector (16 pins) Knock sensor 1, bank 1 is a solid white wire (B6) Knock sensor 2, bank 2 is a solid black wire (B14). Wire colors are not re-used on the same connector, so just look for the 16 pin/wire connector. Code 5-5 is a problem with the knock control system in the ECM. Right hand bank (Right hand = rear, rear = bank 1) You want to splice the white wire into the black one. Toyota leaves 0 slack in the lines... You'll want to un-bind / un wrap a lot of the wire bundle, and do the cutting a ways from the ECU. Personally... I ADD wire when I cut stuff off, so you're never short. Solder + heat shrink is how it should go, but if you're hard up, twist it together and use some small twist caps. I would suggest that being an interm measure. I wouldn't drive more than a year like that. You shouldn't notice any differance, but slightly improved performance from not being in a limp mode. 3vz-fe's have to be on their their death bed to ping.

Keep in mind... There may never be emessions testing in Alabama, and I've never been tested in my life - so what do I know? To start with. If you had 3 clogged injectors. The car wouldn't run worth a crap... Fuel testing is easy. Warm the car up to temperature, put the transmission into 1 and wide open throttle until the engine *won't* spin any faster, or until you hit the ignition cut-off. The ignition cut-off on the A/T's is between 7000-7100rpm. The simple fact, is that all the stock v6 pumps struggle to flow 220hp worth of fuel at high fuel pressure (it's only 192hp at the some 30-35odd psi at high vacuum/low throttle). If there is any fuel restriction, or problem. That engine will bog like crazy between 5200-ignition cut. If it can pull the car in first gear above 6850rpm, in my opinion, you don't have any fuel system problems & should tell them where to shove it. To much fuel is the normaly cause of CO, but I *highly* doubt this is the problem in your case. A 200,000 mile, 13 year old car - Dude... Two obvious problems: 1) That cat-convertor more than likely ceased functioning a couple years back. Get the cat replaced. 2) Replace the o2 sensors... Denso designed to last 90,000-120,000 miles. They don't have to be expencive Toyota parts. Get them replacement off the internet and take them somewhere to install. ($25-35 instead of 60-90 if you look around enough) You can install the front o2 sensor easily with a 12mm socket - The rear is the same, but... You better have a long arm under the car, or take the upper intake manifold off from the top. A fun trick for anyone in the future that needs help passing nox. The EGR is controlled by vacuum, not the ECU. ;) You can swap the EGR vacuum controls all to run off the Vacuum port marked E on the top of the throttlebody. That way at low throttle, the EGR is flowing maximum. Mechanical systems are neat. ;)

I had my front pasanger's 1/4 panel scraped very hard at work one time. Gouged long patches of paint out. I wet sanded it down and re-painted it with a 6oz bottle of B202 I got from my Toyota dealer. If it *BLEEP*es you off, fix it, or have it fixed. Join Autopia.org of you want to know about car and paint care/repair.

This has ab-so-lutely been covered to death on every Camry, Solara, Avalon, and ES/Windom forum known to man. It's nice when you search before asking. The short answer, is take the upper intake manifold off, or get some extensions, a joint, a flexi-shaft, and settle in for some bending.

In ten years I've never had a problem. Maybe try using the correct thread pattern instead of whatever is close enough to begin to thread?

Rotors always have some holes drilled in them that are tapped. That lets you put a bolt through the rotor. The bolt pushed the rotor off the hub. Typically an SAE 5/16" bolt will thread and push them off. Go a turn at a time in opposite bolts. If the rotors are in bad shape, or hot, they could crack on you. There is no reason to go hitting the rotors with a hammer when a small amount of force will do the job with less chance of missing and hitting something you don't want to!

Clean it off first.

If you're going to go to the trouble of replacing cam & cran seals, take the upper intake manifold off and hand clean the inside. Take the valve covers off and replace the valve cover seals also.

I have the ever popular 1994 Camry Toyota repair manual if you just want to look over all the mechanic stuff. It's about 110mb of zipped .pdf's that you can't download off TN anymore. That's as good as I can do.<_< Maybe someone else has the factory car manual on CD / PDF??? :D

Well, i got all the bolts off i am hesitant about prying the aluminum oil pan away from the block, i don't want to damage it and the oul pick up tube is so clogged that i think i will replace it. Should i take the oil pump off and clean it up too? I will post pics of the rods and all parts when i get the pan off, cool? You have to pry to break the gasket seal, unless you have the special service tool Toyota uses. It's basically a razorblade on a stick they can slice the silicon gasket material with! If the oil pickup screen is clogged, just wipe it off - it's normal for it to trap debris. If the tube is clogged... That's bad! I would replace the oil pump instead of cleaning it, but that's just me. Awsome on the pics ;)

Sounds like a good deal on the aux filter. Same thing goes for oil too. If you want it to come out looking clean, you need an aux filter!

I do. 1992 leather in an ES is many times the quality of what caddy and Lincoln used through 2004. I know.... I shofered my grandparents around car shopping in '04. When nearly blind grandparents, can tell you your leather kick the domestic leather's !Removed!... And that's inspite the fact that the leather was worn, 12 years old, and in the base line Lexus no less.... That just tells you the quality difference for the rest of the car. I am serious. Jsut the quality in leather and wood trim in a Camry XLE puts the US luxury divisions to shame. God forbid you compair the Japanese built ES, against American Luxury cars in pure reliability and build quality. Keeping it real tho, if you need the typical room associated with those large American style cars the '94 ES is going to be a size smaller than the Caddy will. Toyota didn't grow the Camry platform as fast as some other imports to meet US market wants. Step up to a '97 ES, and that one minor complaint may not even be a problem. I try to keep it un-biased... But the problem is that the quality itself is so much better, it's a joke.

http://www.clublexus.com/forums/attachment...tid=16745&stc=1 http://www.clublexus.com/forums/showthread...=wiring+diagram

From a more un-biased standpoint. The stereo is fine for the 99% of the population with no inclination to change it. What you must realize is that all of the speakers are 5, 10, or 15 watt speakers. If you are use to stereos that can be loud, without blowing, and maintain clarity, the stock system will not suite you. The good news is that with so many stock speaker locations, it's eeeeasy to swap in really good equipment if/when the need suites you.

Like I emailed you, sorry the phone convorsation was so short, I was hopping a ride to grab some parts! I see what you mean by not spinning out, I thought you meant the bolt snapped totally in half down in the head. Boy would it have been easier if that would have happened! Good call beating a notch into it so a flat blade can turn it out! I swear an hour after you called the house I was doing the exact same thing trying to get a fitting off a turbocharger that snapped off. I had an easier time tho; I was beating a sharpened flat blade screwdrive into brass, not steel!!! :) While the heads are off, why don't you sacrifice a day, or two porting and polishing the heads? If nothing else, clean up the short side radious with strips of sand paper. When you re-install the heads, if you want some advice the books, nor a Toyota/lexus mechanic will tell you, torque the new bolts down to 35lb-ft, then re torque to 65lb-ft. If you are re-using the stretch bolts, pay attention to them, you don't want to split one in half. (Like I said, the weakest one i tested on mine split in half a 95lb-ft)