Toysrme

Ya, the ISR is a paint in the !Removed!. What kind of ticking? Does it tick with the enigne in neutral, or only in gear. Does it tick when you turn?

Is the paint on your car bad? No. Bra's are awful. Look like crap & damage the paint just as bad in the long run. I fyou're going to go the bra route, you need to use the clear plastic bra that bonds to the paint & let's UV light through. (Like two big brands, one is 3M, and I forget the other). They also cover all the foreward facia, so you get more protection. If it get's excessive, you need to take to the dealer.

Actually, it's a funny story. All gen2 gas tanks *are* 15.9 gallons. The gauges are habitually set very high. Most gen2 Camry owners fill up at 1/8th->empty, but can only stuff 12-12.5 gallons in. So... Dude the tank size doesn't matter... Divide the number of miles you drive per fill by the number of gallons put in. If you come out 20mpg+ in mixed driving, you don't have a problem. Take the entire upper intake off & clean it by hand. Replace both o2 sensors. ($25-30 each) & reset the ECU (Pull EFI fuse & replace) Replace spark plugs & check timing (10*btdc). The other stuff won't make a differance, but should be done at some point. Also, don't let the car idle to warm up. Crank, belt, drive.

Front, no, Rear, yes.

Common load of sh¡t from dealers. Ebay a 2 1/4", or 2 1/2" cat for $40-$50usd. Take it to an exhaust shop & have them weld it in for $50-150usd.

Toyota of USA recommends 32psi all around. Toyota of Europe recommends 38psi for highway driving in general, and speeds above 90mph. 38-40psi works the best for me. I've found the stock Goodyear Eagle's, a set of bridgestones & a cheap set of Delta tires all wear unevenly, & handle poorly at 32psi. I normally run 40 front 38 rear. If you drag race, take a cig lighter pump to the track. Inflate the rear to 44psi, deflate the fronts to 22-25psi. That's the best drag racing combo. The only road racing v6 Camry/ES I know uses 25psi front, 28psi rear.

The drain is the only rubber drain hose under the front of the cabin. Runs right by the exhaust, make sure it's not plugged. Blow compressed air through the sunroof drain holes. Same thing for the passanger side!

The original plug is a NDenso Platinum. The book calls for platinum tipped replacement plugs. Iridium are great plugs, but you can't use the life span, so it's a huge waste of money. The dealers put in the bare bones NGK BCPR6ES-11, the famous 6779 0.044" gap. Ah-pwetty! No real difference in a base NGK, and a typical cheap plat plug when it comes to life span. No real point in wasting the money!

Ya it makes a differance. Get KYB's That's the OEM. Keep in mind, that the struts Toyota puts on the Camry platform are more plush than American Luxury cars. If you swap brands try to cheap out you'll either: 1) Get a flat out inferior strut that will be gone in a year, or two 2) Have to get a stiffer strut 3) Not be abe to get the same ride in the same price zone Your ES came with sealed struts. They only used serviceable in 92-94.

Werd, the only rebuit transmissions I would buy, either: 1) I rebuilt it 2) IPT build it.

I woulda done it, but they've been done before. The little set screws were so chewed up I couldn't get my jewlers screwdrivers to pull them out. :\

Just an FYI, it costs $10 even at a Toyota/Lexus dealer for them to take your key apart and put a new battery in. It's worth it! Mine has declined down to a 20' range over the last two years. They're both bakc up to 40' again woo hoo!

The bottom is held down by two latches. Pull up at the front of the seat to find them. Place one hand at each latch, give a sharp upward jerk (not hard, but sharp) and the bottom pops out. The back of the seat is held on by the exposed 14mm bolts. Wiggle the shoulder seatbelts around the edge of the back of the seat so you can easily pull it out.

I'm not sure what a wallypop is, or your mechanical skill level. This is a 2-3 beer project on the Toysrme mechanical scale, or if you live in the hot & humid south like Toysrme, it's a 2-3 beer + 1-2 rum & gatoraid. Gotta have your fluids. Ya don't want a heat stroke!

He'll put one on yours for $2500 so. I'm guesing roughly $1500-2000. Na he hasn't been to the track yet. He's waiting for some goodies, and needs to swap his wastegate spring for something with more boost first. ;)

Oh dear f'ing god!? Don't go to any chain paint house, or a dealer ofr that matter. /rant on Go to an indipendant collision repair shop. They all look nasty... Let's face it, they have the most broke, of broke !Removed! cars to work on! That's also the place where you'll find the pre-finish & painters making the big money becuase they're actually skilled at their craft. Dealers, mechanics, and paint shops take your money and laff. Collision shops have big broher on their !Removed! (insurance companies that *will* get the work done right the first time). Remember guys... Most dealers have the 15 year old zit faced teenagers making a little dough by scratching the *BLEEP* out of cars with real buffing machines. Those are the same ones that are going to get to do all the prep work for your paint. We won't even get into the fact that dealers don't hire painters. They hire mechanics. Most dealers hire out for paint service. Where do they hire out? The best indy collision repair shop they can find! /rant off Grab the yellow pages & find the best indy collision repair shop for the paint. Hawk makes the best brake pads on Earth. Get a set of HPS's.

Open your sunroof. At both front corners of the bodywork, there will be a small hole to let water drain. What normally happens, is that line backs up on the driver's side (go figure). The water can't drain so it'll spill over the "tray" out into the back, either directly there, through the liner, or on the seat & down. They're hard to see, run your finger through the joint in the bends. You'll feel them.

I'm with LF. Iridium, or not. You'll want them taken out & cleaned by 60,000 miles regardless, which I always point out. If you're going to pay 10-11x the cost of a base ngk/denso, and still have to pull it out before the plug itself is dead. No point in buying it in the first place. =) We can't know if your plugs are gonna last another 30,000 miles. Don't ask us LoL! It's your car, try it if you want. If you get mis-firing next year, you'll know why. ;)

Lots of premium with 4-5* of ignition retarding (from base timing, or 2-3* from where sean use to have to run it with n2o anyway). I've been trying to talk him into getting an h2o kit for months so he can go back to regular! :P

It would definately suffice. You oughta drain the transmission fluid in the pan if they didn't. (Personally I would lfush it out, but hey.)

A lot of other countrie's premium grade is 98 RON. Here, you can get 98 octane in a very few places. You probably have to pull timing like a crack addict LoL!

Since this particular thread has been updated? It's been: powder coated intercooler's been swapped along with new charger piping used 7m-ge 315cc injctors were swapped for rebuilt R/C 315cc injectors Walbro 190 was re-swapped for a Walbro 255. A few oil leaks cropped up (Not related to the turbo) & were fixed E-manage was finally instaled Some of the gauges were swapped out N2o kit was unmounted to bes old The complete interior was ripped out for a week, then replaced (The 315's are still on the block to be ditched in favor of 550's again) Currently, trying to sell the convertable DSM to buy a v8 BMW 5XX

Ya re-seal it. It's not pressing, mine's been a part for months now to answer questions! :P But when ever you're happy with it, use some kind of silicon to put the top on so moisture can't get in. You really shouldn't need 94. If anything, mileage is gonna crash with it. 3vz-fe's would probably run 80 if they made it. :\ Damn timing is so retarded it's retarded.

Replace the springs / struts. You're going to get blown all over the road. It's an aerodynamic car that doesn't weigh two + tons. Get use to it. :\

That's secondary for -50*F operation.