tmaki

Just for the record, the manual does say on page AC-15, "5. Charge empty refrigeration system with refrigerant (liquid). "This step is used to charge an empty system through the high pressure side with refrigerant in a liquid state." It also says to never run the engine when charging this way. There just seems to be a few details of the procedure that are unclear. And any reference to evacuation is three steps previous. Maybe some of those details are just understood. Do you think it's reasonable to jumper the dual pressure switch to enable the compressor so as to charge from the l/p side? Or is it imperative to charge an empty system with liquid on the h/p side? There seems not to be a problem with compressor lubrication, as the compressor replacement procedure does not specify adding oil. Replacement procedures for all other major components have specific oil addition specs. Continuing to wonder... T. Maki

I just replace the A/C compressor on my '91 ES 250. Since the compressor won't run w/o pressure in the system, what is the proper procedure for recharging? ( I have vacuum pump, gauge set, etc. and know how to use them). Pages AC-14 and AC-15 of the factory service manual describe the procedures for both vapor and liquid, but not a word about the dual pressure switch. I'm guessing with vacuum at specified level, refrigerant should be added in liquid form at the H/P side. On the other hand, I made a jumper from the wiring harness of a donor car and the compressor runs with that in place. So, I could recharge at the L/P port with the compressor running. Is there a preferred method? Or any else that should be considered? Thanks! T. Maki

A couple of months ago I posted re: doing a restoration on my '91 ES 250. It is now nearly complete. After a complete drivetrain replacement, front and rear bumper replacement, radio/console replacement, front seat, interior and some other exterior parts replacements, at this point I feel that there isn't anything I can't do on this car. The end result is very satisfying. Donor engine and trans are like new. I've got a couple of alignment issues to straighten out (replaced steering wheel and didn't quite get it repositioned correctly), but for the most part, it's almost like having a new car again. For anyone anticipating such a task, you MUST have the factory service manual. Although in some cases Toyota has an interesting sense of humor in describing the steps involved, without that book it would be virtually impossible to do what I did. I did everything by the book, including pulling the main wiring harness. Everything was reassembled with the proper torque values and in the correct order. There were so many small things that I did other than the drivetrain swap that I could fill a small book of my own with tips and shortcuts. Suffice it say that these cars are just not that hard to work on given the right tools, the right references, a little experience and ample time. Yesterday, I even completely disassembled the headlight assemblies as the adjusters weren't operating correctly. Reassembled after freeing up and lubricating the adjuster mechanisms, and working perfectly. (for sale items removed) Please forgive if this isn't a proper place to inform about these. If inappropriate, please direct me to the appropriate place. (Please review the rules and guidelines on this forum for selling items. Pay particular attention to the specific rules in the Buy & Sell Forum.) Thanks for the encouraging things I've read here over the last several months. It was quite a project, but I'll be able to happily drive this car for several more years. T. Maki Riverside, CA

[quote=Toysrme,Oct 13 2005, 06:51 A <good info snipped> Thanks for the info and tips. As to the year of the replacement engine, I don't know. Is there coding in the engine number that will give a clue? (Sorry to appear ignorant, but my background and history is with Detroit iron that I grew up with in the 50s and 60s. I'm a little behind the curve since the late 70s. Too busy running a business, etc. to keep up with the automotive minutiae). I've been thinking that the miss problem is an oxygen sensor or something similar. The diagnostic tree in the manual lists so many things that it is nearly overwhelming just to go through the list. What's been strange is that the engine ran very well for several months, and then the CEL lit up. Admittedly, I'd been using regular gas (although always Chevron or Shell) for a while when the light came on, and a little miss started. I changed back to premium and after about two tanks (a couple of trips into L.A. and back) the light went off and the missing stopped. Hooray! It ran well for the next while, and the next day after buying a tank of gas in new place, the light came back and the missing started again, and hasn't changed since. I figure the new gas was purely coincidental. But the last shop I took it too that said the "cylinder is dead" seemed unable to explain how the car "healed" itself the time before. It's my experience that if a cylinder has lost compression (the reason they gave) they don't get better. I don't know. But I'll do the checks you mention just to see. My ultimate goal is to change out this engine for the "new" one I just got, and put the Camry engine/trans up for sale. I ought to be able to get a few bucks for it. As to the O2 sensor(s) - this is a California car, so there is another one near the CC - I guess I have to pull off the air intake to get to it? I can't even see it from the top. Thanks again. My confidence level is increasing. TM

I've finally got the resources together to do a restoration. I bought my 250 10 years ago and have put 120,000 miles on it since then (ready to roll over 170,000). I can't bring myself to part with it, so I've purchased two more - one with overheated/shot engine, but decent interior and body parts, and another with excellent interior and mostly excellent body parts and 79,000-mile engine. This latest one was garaged-kept and properly serviced, but was struck by a truck on the right side, crushing both doors and pillar. The car is otherwise great, drives like a new one, etc. I've got about $1600 invested in both donor cars, so that's not too bad. My original 250 overheated (split top radiator tank) in the mountains a couple of years ago, and I had a shop put in a Camry 2VZ-FE engine. It seemed to be the right thing to do at the time, but they didn't do some of the things they promised, and now I've got a miss, two codes (25 & 26) and a constant CEL. Another shop said the miss is from a "dead cylinder" (on the back side of course). I have my doubts - you can't check the compression without taking off the air intake, and nothing under the hood looks like it was touched. $210 for parking it on their asphalt overnight. Anyways, I've made the decision to go ahead and do this restoration. My wife thinks I'm nuts, but there's no other car I'd rather have (except maybe a PT Cruiser). Maybe I can get a few more great driving years out of this one. Thanks for this forum. It's good to know a "support group" is out there. I may ask questions or vent a little as I go through this. At least I'm not in a hurry. Any comment or advice is welcome. Pointers or "gotchas" from the experts also welcome. I have the factory service manual, and the tools and skills. Didn't mean to go on so long, but wish me luck. It's an adventure! TM