Toysrme

Cool. I have a heavy foot too. My $60 radiator works well. ;)

Forget high mileage oil. 5w-30 synthetic. Mobil1 synthetic in 5 quart jugs is normally $18-20 at Wall-marts across the nation. If it were me, I would flush it first. Anyways, the first thing you should do is flush the transmission fluid out. Even better if you add an aux. cooler. There are a zillion posts on what to do when you buy one on this forum, look some up. It's a good idea on your engine to run mostly premium.

Aftermarket. OEM Toyota is hella expencive, Lexus is bawahahahahahaha

The OPS is on the front of the engine by the oil filter where the oil passages are. The knock sensors are on the block between the V banks under the intake manifold. To my knowledge, there is no sensor on the back of the engine. You can skim the FSM's too, they don't show anything AFA I have ever seen. I can't help ya, but I'm glad you got the mount & valve-cover changed!

Pour out a 1/3 of a can for a v6, 1/2 a can for a v8. Just stick your finger on the end of the brake booster line, drop it in your little container, take your finger off. The problem I've found with pouring it in, is that people are slow. They'll *BLEEP* around for a min until the engine stalls, or take too much time to shut it off. The idea is for it to be sucked up, & not all burn off.

Soooooooo... Sup? Question, or just telling us your experience. It's hard for me to tell b/c you didn't format it. Yea, Rear engine mount is easier to do after taking the axle out. The only sensor on the back side of the engine is the rear o2 sensor. Hah. My motto, "As sawzall, solves all".

I, personally, don't care to see pictures. I know it's full with carbon from snort to snip. He may not have valve build-up looking like a funnel, but it's there. My thing, is that he doesn't accept the fact that regardless of how often you change the oil, or what engineering Toyota does - oil splashes everywhere & coagulates & some of it builds up, and simply turning the key starts shoving carbon all back through the system, coating snip to snort in nasty !Removed! carbon. How he cleans it, or if he ever does is his biz. He practices manually scrubbing his TB's. So regardless of what comes out of his keyboard, he knows all engines have carbon deposits problems from the intake down through the exhaust. Including his 400,000 mile ones. kcpth AFAIK you can keep putting it in there. I dumped a whole can in the F150 & it had a light smoke until i filled up because it was double the recommended dose for awhile. There is only one negative application of seafoam I know about, and it was on a Toyota truck. The guy dropped his intake line in a FULL seafoam can, it instantly sucked the entire bottle up, and hydrolocked a cylinder, killing a rod, or spinning a bearing (I forget exactly). Which is why if you look, I always suggest metering out 1/4-1/3-1/2 a can depending on displacement.

I agree. $15 to turn a brake rotor. $55 for a set of Brembo Blanks... But my point was that you don't *have* to do anything if they're not warped to begin with. I've never seen the point.

What can we say, you nailed it! Good Job!

There are several oil ports for the engine. The easiest of which is either of the two ports on the side of the oil-filter stand off. Put an oil pressure gauge in (whatever port) and there ya go. Oil pressure @ idle is normally 4-7psi Oil pressure at say 3000rpm+ should be 40-70psi (an it's fine to be higher) I'm not sure what the general toyota spec is for the OPS. It's in the factory service manuals tho. If it's the oil presure sensor no problem, if it's an actual problem. Ew. But you need to be sure 'cause if there is a real problem, somebody is gonna be pulling a big, useless 350lb slug of aluminum out of the engine bay. ;)

lexguy2000 a lot of people like the rotors to be surfaced with new pads, but if they're not warped to begin with, it is easily skipped. The big thing is breaking in pads &/or rotors whatever is new. 100 miles of very light, slow braking for pads 1,000 miles of very light, slow braking for new rotors

If you're failing, something's wrong. What was the results of your test & we can tell you what's wrong without having to tell you to test everything ignition, or fuel related.

Even better than a dead neon, is the CRX of doom!

Nothing really important. Same as most other SOTU's.

And monarch, unless you drive 400,000 miles in six months, like I said. You wouldn't know any of that if it bit you. You have no comparison to a brand new, rebuilt, or atleast cleaned engine.

Shims + Anti-Squeak compound are pretty much required on any kind of pad to prevent/reduce squealing. Ya really need both! & remember, nothing more than the slowest, gental braking for 100 miles.

Could be. That sounds like a good theory. Time to start !Removed! the bolts in the hat to jack the rotor off, or bust out a rubber mallet/hammer/sledge & a block of wood.

The short term consiquences of a gasoline additive are next to nothing. I honestly don't believe they do much, if anything, on Toyota/Denso/Nippon fuel systems. AFA oil, there are little short term conciquences. As the oil pump mixes the entire mixture together, then circulates all of it, the entire mixture is thinned out to some degree. This increases the amount of oil actually pumping. 5W-30 + 1 quart of kerosene, or seafoam; remains thicker than the brand new 5w-20 Mobil1 Synthetic I currently have in my engine. I am not talking about longer drain intervals. This thread is discussing the enourmous amount of *BLEEP* that builds up in the engine. Until you take your engine apart, or give cleaning everything by hand, or by any other method a try monarch. Have no legitimate opinion to wether something causes a problem or not. You wouldn't know a perfect idle, a killer throttle transision, what the actual highest powerband, or best economy because you've not experienced it since your vehicle was in a new state. I hate to say it... But as much as you hate the idea of someone cleaning their engine - by any means - you don't have a valid input one way or another. All you have, is a baseline of how your vehicles preforms now, against no cleaned state of your vehicle to check against.

The all time greatest limerick one of all time, and my all-time favorite joke: There once was a guy named Bob Who had red spots on his knob, The doc threw him out and started to shout Just wipe off the lipstick you slob!

Yellow oil light is nothing more than you're low on oil Red oil light is low oil pressure of death *note* that even an intermittant ROPSOD means there IS a STRONG possibility that there is an oil problem ALL THE TIME!!! The oil pump, if the pick-up is uncovered from a low oil level, will suck, and pressurize air just like a roots supercharger. The pressurized air will lower oil flow even farther, but create enough pressure to satisfy the oil pressure sensor, and ECU. 1) Stop driving the car period. Toyota engine's are well known for not needing a lot of oil pressure to function, but the oil pressure sensor is calibrated to that level. Continuing to run the engine under stantes of low oil pressure will result in a complete rebuild, or a new engine. 2) You need to check the oil pressure itself, if low, replace the oil pump 3) You need to check / replace the oil pressure sensor If you can't accomplish the above, your first task is finding a mechanic that can.

OOo OOOoOOOOOOO! If the mounting stuff is still on good, buy new hood struts off ebay for an ES / Camry! I got mine for idk 40-60? I love it.

Yeaaaaaah. There's a bit more off that engine than the intake LoL! To see what things like Seafoam, and water injection could really do VS carbon. AFA as kerosene flush. buy a gallon of the highest grade kerosene you have avalible. Drop a quart in the crankcase & let it idle for 10 min. 20 will cause problems. 10 is great. After that shut it off & ditch the oil. Pour another quart through to get everything on the bottom of the pan out. Change the filter & go like normal. If you *really* wanna do it, put $5 worth of super-tech in there from wall-mart & a cheapie filter, drive around a week, then put in your $18-20 worth of Mobil1 Synthetic & a Denso/Toyota filter! No it will not - to do that, you ahve to clean it via the intake, but by flushing the oil with anything, your idle will become extremely smooth. You think a used Lexus motor is still smooth, hah! Wait till after you clean that bottom end out.

Mocarch, why should I go over it again? I've lead you through carbon buildup on a previous discussion about Seafoam, or intake cleaning, or whatever brought it up. I'm guessing more than once also... Damn it... Carbon in the combustion chamber superheats becoming a major cause of pre-ignition while causing accellerated wear on spark plugs It raises the compression ratio, It keeps valves from sealing properly lowering compression It destroys valves, or the valve surface from superheating It can build-up on valves, severly decreasing the flow past them It lowers intake velocity, consistantly decreasing power output 5-10bhp across all currnet Toyota v6's with EGR. (The same is true for any engine using EGR...) It clogs the IAC/ISC/Throttlebody/EGR valves There is no possible reason NOT to clean carbon out of an engine. If you don't want to do it, or don't like how people do it, that's cool. But it's simple ignorance to believe it has no negative performance, economy, or lasting effects on the engine. ^ Seafoam shouldn't fowl plugs, but who knows.

Sounds good, but if you can promise yourself the coolant has been changed, 90,000 mile schedule now. Wait to 150,000m. No a tune-up will not solve that. Take your IAC & EGR valves off, and clean them by hand. Might want to think about new valve cover gaskets while it's cracked open. Cam & Crank seals.

Yes, that is my engine the first time I tore I apart VS the second time I tore it apart. I - on purpose - did not clean the pistons themselves any time I have taken the heads off to se what effects things like seafoam, or water injection would do in the combustioin chamber. Tons of random shots here: http://photobucket.com/albums/v414/Toysrme/ http://photobucket.com/albums/v208/DNoel/ Original @ 94,000 miles VS @ 104,000 miles a few thousand miles of running normal Cylinder #6 close-up. Just so people don't get confused at what they're looking at... The fluid/wet look on the first one can't be helped. I had to vacuum coolant out of that cylinder, but pay attention to the carbon. Nasty... Notice that the #4 (middle) cylinder is spotlessly clean. That is because that was the cylinder that kept blowing the head gasket @ the coolant passage for that bank from having a warped head on that passage. Water Injection (LoL coolant) So... nc211 to answer the question, yes it is the same engine. The reason the #4 cylinder can not be compaired is because of the massive water cleaning from driving around with a blown headgasket. As is obvious in those pictures, any comparison on that is a completely moot point. Seafoam owns the intake tract. 2+ applications in the intake will get the majority of the carbon out of the intake track in the head/valves & combustion chamber. Water injection owns carbon hardcore. It's a pain in the wahoo, but after having run water injection on & off both N/A & FI'ed. I can say it's worth it. Put a 16oz spray bottle on it's fine mist pattern Crank engine Pull brake booster, or other LARGE DIRECT (NOT PCV) hose off the intake manifold & insert/hold spray bottle nose to it so it doesn't vacuum leak & stall. The ECU will piddle around to re-establish an idle (Nearly instantly if you seal it as good as possible) Spray fast enough to make the engine idle drop & keep pumping fast enough to keep it a slow, slow idle. (It drops because the mixture is effectively getting richer. If you're pumping to fast, it'll go from idling slowly, to simply becoming so rich it stops. It will not flood, or hydrolock in any case...) Do that a few times a year, whoa momma. You'll get & keep spotless pistons like I have. ;) You'll get a killer idle by doing anything in the crankcase too. It's amazing how much difference ther is, even when the blakc & bottom end is nothing more than "normal" for oil us/stains/varnish. I like Seafoam & Marvel Mystery Oil. I also like Kerosene flushing the oil system. It's just so much faster, cheaper & less hassle LoL! I'm not really into fuel injector cleaning. To me that's more of a once in a blue moon type of thing, but 2 each, his own. monarch that's cool. I bet if you took more parts off, you'd cacoon in your pants at the carbon ;) Good lord, nearing a 1/2 million miles & look at what is happening to these engines sub 100,000 miles LoL!