Toysrme

Try now.

I haven't opened the forum yet, but it's working. Next to nothing is in it. So much stored information between several people, along with a few new projects... I'm struggling to compile it all on top of being really busy. http://lextreme.com/v6/viewforum.php?f=4 My valvebody is sitting in a bag in my basement. If you want me to do a short video on how to take the valvebody off including the cable I'd be happy to do it. It's gonna rain here tomorrow & ruin a lot of my plans . But I really need to know, because I'm rebuilding my valvebody tomorrow morning & as soon as I think I can get a solid hour without rain, it's going back in the car. All of that being said. I just don't really think it's the cable, but yes... There is, atleast in easily brouhgt up theory, the chance that it's the cable. ;) That being said, dropping the pan is the next best step.

It means you're doing damage to it, but there is no way to tell what's going on. Several drain & fills, or flush it. Clean your IAC, clean the MAF & Check your coolant sensor<s>

It's pretty easy. I actually just made a video on how to change the transmission fluid & drop the pan for my other website.

'95 LS > '97 ES > non GS400/GS430 1uz-fe > 1mz-fe > 2jz-ge - ya I said it ES > LS = GS - MPG

I guess if the cable has stretched a ton so you couldn't get it tight enough, changing it would help. & I know not all the cables are the exact same spec. You can take two identicle model cars & move one 1/8" of the way tighter & it'll shift beautifully sporty, move it all the way tight & it'll be too much, then take another car & it'll bearly start shifting sporty by the time you have it all the way tightened. But I'm not sure if that's gonna help or not. Just a thought. You have to drop the valve body to change it. It's not a *hard* DIY, but it is a maaaaajor pita because the kick-down valve has a pretty dang strong spring you have to fight to get the cable on & off. (I use a small screwdriver to wedge it open). I take it you tried all kinds of adjustment, I know you have the right level of good fluid in there & you've wiped off the filter screen too huh?

Search. Bank 1 = rear bank (Odd bank) It could be anything ignition, or fuel related. Start by checking/replacing the sparkplugs. (Search for spark plug threads) Then move on to checking the injector & the spakr plug wire (DO NOT use generic wires. NGK, or performance oriented wires ONLY)

Sounds great! I wouldn't worry too much about the pressure drop. you can always adjust pressure higher (For that matter you can read the pressure & contrast & compair if you wanted too. I don't have the '94 Camry repair manual infront of my (I just reformatted), but as a rule of thumb, all internal transmission 10mm bolts are "finger tighten" to about 7-8 lb/ft & the transmission pan bolts are like 3-4 lb/ft.

And sway bar bushings. Just grease / replace all the bushings like everyone else. (search)

If you don't like it, don't post in the thread... It's in compliance of forum rules, along with the guideline of this forum. This thread is sooooo hijacked. What a complete waste. I mean honestly how rediculous can some people be? Making fun of his fiancee's new Matrix - that would just be "prick'ish", but taking any opportunity given just to make him - that's just being an !Removed!. Really, I mean what a way to do that??? Could ya *possibly* pick any better time to just *really* go to far? "Hey guys, #2 best day (Next to children) of my life is coming up let's all celibrate it". Congratulations Josh.

Shift lock. Correct on the ECT button. It holds gears a little longer when you're accelerating, but even more so (For those three transmissions they used it on for us) they hold gears far longer when decelerating.

You used search (Great!), but you obviuosly didn't use it very well! ahhhh j/k One per manifold, if your car was originally sold in CA, or NY, it will have a post-cat o2 sensor also. S2000 ant. Camry ant off ebay, or buy the real ES ant. Camry ant = one position, ES/Windom ant = two posistion. The 3vz-e might, the 3vz-fe does not.

To do that you'd have to take the fuel pump out of the tank & drop it in like a gallon, or two of seafoam. The engine isn't going to run that well on a very light oil. (45-65% of Seafoam is Naptha). It shouldn't run at all, but if it were really hot it would. Many gas engines, when experianced heavy oil leaks into multiple cylinders after they're warmed up will run on light oils - but not well. Nothing mroe than a small idle. Tho they don't have the flat out compression to ignite the stuff, once the cylinders & everything is hot, sometimes they can. If you ever take a key out of an ignition & the engine just continues to purr on along at an idle - massive oil leak. :) Immediately.

Mine need adjusting across the engine, but only because over 1/2 of my lifter buckets were mixed up during a rebuild. If they need adjusting, it's from lobe, shim, and spring wear. They'll tick when they are much further out than the specification. You'll hear it, it's not something you're going to miss. It takes a good amount of time to do every valve, but all you need is a screwdriver, some pliers, a set of feeler gauges & a caliper.

I am officially offering my services to convert that into applications for ES, and GS applications. For the nominal fee of $380,000yen.

Niiiice! LoL! There have been a lot of old volvo's drop transmissions during emessions testing. They even had to send info out to all the states that do emessions testing NOT to tests those volvo's b/c they kept killing transmissions LoL! They can't be revved in park. Now you're wondering... What does this have to do with us? Volvo use to use Asian-Warner transmissions too! :o That's scarey! Niiiice! LoL! There have been a lot of old volvo's drop transmissions during emessions testing. They even had to send info out to all the states that do emessions testing NOT to tests those volvo's b/c they kept killing transmissions LoL! They can't be revved in park. Now you're wondering... What does this have to do with us? Volvo use to use Asian-Warner transmissions too! :o That's scarey!

So you're going ...... And yet you didn't build what's in this thread did you?

Whatever sk, I think you don't know what you're talking about LoL! That, right up there is still *the* best intake possible without stuffing in n2o, or air into it. Like I said, if you don't believe it, make a manometer, and start reading temps. The bay isn't that hot to begin with in that area, and when the car is moving, it's not hot at all.

1) Never trade a car to a dealer 2) The same things everything else needs Gaskets, cv boots, etc.

No. No CAI. In an engine bay like ours, without exhaust anywhere near the driver's side of the engine bay, which is large & open - there is no point for a CAI. Hot air escapes the bottom of the engine bay, leaving no real point in sectioning off an intake. You also get into that adding a pod filter in the "gills", and general fender area only gains a few degrees cooler air when the car is moving - which also results in cooler engine bay temps. Measure that against the increased pressure drop (& complexity if you're using hard pipe instead of crappy flex stuff) by the longer intake, and you wind up with nothing really constructive. You wind up going from no inches of water with an open filter, to several with most CAI's. That's restrictive. Then you get past CAI's into ram-airs. They're only able to provide miniscule amounts of positive pressure. (We're talking 2 on average for one that works. For the great ones, centered on the airflow split on the car driving @ 60mph, *maybe* up to 7in/water) Even then, that's *only* at part throttle! Please don't confuse in/water to psi... 7in/water of pressure = about 0.25284 psi. 2in/water = 0.07224psi. (If you can't hit the red dot, a ram/cai isn't doing 50% what it could be!) If you think I'm wrong, then do something to prove it. Watch the resistance of your own temp sensor, and make a quick manometer to check with. I spent about a month this time last year doing nothing but building every different style intake I know possible. *The* only single intake I can think of that I didn't try would be a huge pipe, multiple entry ram air. Everything else, filter less, CAI's, ram airs, short & direct intakes. Even two air-flow meter bypass's. They don't change much one way to another. Yes, it's some kind of Fram filter. Until I get done "playing" with flushing my crankcase out, I'd rather spend $2 a filter, than waste my few Denso filters I have left. The nearest Toyota dealer with good prices is 30-40 miles away. Cheap > high end Denso when it comes to flushing. ;) I made a thread about it awhile back. Takes like... $5-10-15 to make one, opposed to like $30-45 to buy one. & nothing is "taped" minus the old FPR VSV wires. The filter mount is bolted to the engine using an M7 1.25mm 10mm hex bolt.

Bank one is always the right hand bank Bank two is always the left hand bank 1-1 is the rear manifold 2-1 is the front manifold 1-2 is the cat sensor Download the 1994 Camry FSM. http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/...ad.php?t=425159

Assuming the wiring is OK & it's just the sensor (That's the case the majority of the time) You replace the sensor.

Here's how to build the only intake that *actually* does something constructive: Get on ebay & buy a 2.75" to 3" silicon coupler, and an AFM Adapter WITH a cone filter. That should set you back $25-30. Go to... Anywhere Lowes/Home Depot / Auto store. Buy a plastic 5/8" barb, 2' of 5/8" hose, and something like Automotive Goop. 1) Drill / grind a 5/8" hole in the top, or bottom of the AFM housing on the flat spot, AFTER everything & just BEFORE the hose flange 2) Cut the barb in half, leaving the flange on one side intact (Mine was a 5/8" to 3/4" barb) 3) Push the hose barb in the hole from the inside out. That way it catches on the flange & gives you some surface area. Goop/Epoxy/Whatever the hose barb in 4) Bolt the AFM adapter to the AFM, & clamp the filter on 5) Clamp the silicon coupler to the AFM 6) Rotate the entire intake clockwise about 45-60* on the throttlebody when you install it 7) Install the 5/8" hose VERY GENTLY 8) Reconnect the AFM 9) Pull the EFI fuse, and count to One - Brandon-kicks-a-lot-of-!Removed!. Then replace it. This accomplishes moving the AFM as close to the throttle plate as possible. This increases the resolution of data that the ECU see's to the maximum it ever will, and increase throttle response across the board. It also gives the best transition, shortest, and smallest amount of intake restrictions currently possible. It's the only way you're *actually* going to gain power with an intake, unless the intake includes a n2o fogger, or a turbo at some point. Not to mention it's... A very aggressive sound. Especially after modding the ACIS closed. Remember to take off the wire clip on the AFM to get the harness off... Otherwise you'll rip half the PCB out when you tug the cable. (I had some 2.75" couplers on hand so I used that. But you want to use a 2.75" to 3" coupler. You can also adjust the AFM cog. See previous posts on that.

Damn widely varrying Tn emessions! You live 1 state too far north. LoL! Too bad really... Now that it's out you can replace so much crap it's not funny! Including throwing the EGR in the land-fill! Man so much you can do right now it's stupid silly... The least of which is let me or sean try to fab a working rear manifold small enough to fit a small ihi turbo back there in that tiny hole! :P j/k While you have the engine out & have easy access & won't make a mess... Flush that powersteering fluid. (Do the brake fluid soon too. The plastic get's old & makes it look nasty, but it's probably crappy & full of water anyway) If you're gonna do a new, custom torque convertor & stay N/A on stock, or mild cams. I would suggest 3200-3500rpm stall. New generic bosch splice in o2 sensors. This is a great time to do the rear one! LoL! You *really* need to look all along the back of the rear head & valve cover for any signs of leaking. The coolant passages are all white & chalky on the aluminum parts. Previous owner wasn't changing coolant enough. I'd flush the block (Be prepaired to pee your pants when you watch brown/ornage come out. Remember... It's like a 300lb iron block LoL!), and keep tabs on the radiator. Pull the resonator out. (Do it from under the car) Stock Airbox+CAI+Resonator

You can pay $200 a needle assembly from Lexus, or hit up the ClubLexus moderator O.L.T. He does custom needles / backlights / climate/radio backlighting. http://lextech.org/ Go to Autozone, or some parts store. Most will scan it for free. Write down the codes & buy nothing until someone not trying to sell you something tells you to buy something. Tell them it's a '96. Most are dumb & don't realize your '94 is OBD-II compliant. Register your car Lexus.com. They'll send you a free owners manual 1ce every month if you request one. (They take for f'ing ever to mail them & they look like a cheap copier did the printing... But they are free!) AFA the shaking, it could be a bunch of things, but start with checking the tires, tire pressure (I recommened 38psi), and have them balanced & aligned correctly. Check the steering out too. Didn't the '94's have a bad bushing covered under a TSIB? I forget, it's 2:30am. Download the 1994 Camry FSM. http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/...ad.php?t=425159