Toysrme

Anyone with mechanical knowledge, or the will & ability to follow directions, with basic tools can change a valve cover & timing belt if they had to. Along with do that extra special "major service". The rear main seal? No... Trust me when I said it is far beyond what most people can accomplish. Download that '94 Camry repair manual & have a look for yourself. I say go pay your $625 at a Toyota dealer instead of buying anything at Lexus.

You're very welcome! Eh, if labor rates & parts are just insanely cheap there. I guess. $2000usd? (6,514.86 Polish Zloty) Here, count $1000 per replacing a body panel, About $800 if a panel can be beated out & saved. Including a re-paint+prep for paint to get a match. $2000 doors $1500 a new roof section + pillars welded in $1500 structural frame damage *between* the wheel wells replaced / fixed $1000 rear 1/4 panel $1000 front 1/4 panel $500 for hood I'm up to $7500 for superficial damage @ 3:45am. ;) Not including any possible mechanical problems & a few interior trim pieces (no big deal). There is very major damage to this car. It's *not* replacing a couple of doors. It's unbolting the body work & cutting part of the frame out & welding new metal in. You can use any *mechanical* part off a Camry. You can't use a single body panel off one without *extremely* extencive modification. Good luck with it man. Let us know how it goes!!!

Scrap it. Even in the US that is literally more in repair work, and parts than the entire car is worth. I couldn't imagine the parts costs you will be looking at in Eastern Europe. If you lived here... My unprofessional eyes sees $9,000-$10,000usd in parts/labor costs. I'm sorry. :'(

Depends on the muffler. No idea on stock.

The transmission mount on the driver's side is not hard to change, but a little tricky. The shock absorber IDK anyone that's changed one. The rear mount is a pita. The transmission mount isn't bad.

You just want a stock sounds, or a performance sound? What kind of tone? How loud? Regardless if you drive hard, or not. IMO Hawk HPS pads up front. Toyota/dealer pads = AkeBone ProACT. Put them on the rear. Fresh dot3, or Dot4 (if you drive hard) fluid.

Noone can see your pictures if you don't open your photobucket for outside viewers. You've got it password protected right now.

Once you get past no !Removed!, the basic rule set is just "don't do something you think will *BLEEP* Brandon off". Short of that... A few server problems over the last few days, but they're all sorted out & ready to go now. woot woot

Ya bud. That things not gonna turn over until you hook that back up to the starter solenoid.

Uhhhh... It's a Lexus/Toyota car seat. So that means that basically... They all use the same *basic* bolt pattern as everything else & that's really all anyone can tell you. If you wait a couple of months when I go to the track & take out my passanger seat I'll measure for you tho. ;) Sorry dude. Due to never having seen anyone put a Rearco in an ES/Windom & can't quote anyone off-hand with a Camry having put one in (Tho there are a few) - noooobody's gonna know.

Ya, there's really not all that much to the big 2 mounts.

Take another picture farther away fro the cable. Show more of the general area. It probably goes to the starter solenoid on the starter.

Much congratulations Josh & Megan! From me & Rebekah.

A long talked about project between several prominent Toyota v6 people, namely: Sean McElligott (First turbo 3vz-fe, Fastest/most powerful ES-300/Windom/Camry period on a stock engine N/A, N2o *Turbo) Johnny Riglietti (Known throughout both the truck, and MR2 v6 swap world for making, and selling cams / tuning products) & Myself (<Insert Joke here>) After much discussion, David (Owner/Operator of Lextreme.com) has decided that the performance Lexus/Toyota v6 community will benefit greatly by having a single point to converse. Lextreme has been the best place for Lexus/Toyota v8 community, and information exchange since he created it a few years ago. Out goal is to do the same thing regarding the Lexus/Toyota v6's. The forum itself is open to registration & free of many annoying things. If you want to write about anything in your heart's desire for the engines. Go for it. If you want to do a project. Do it. If you want to write a hair brained guide on how to do the lamest task. Then we'll have the best lamest guide on how to do the lamest tasks! Contribute to it however you feel. There are a few changes to make, along with some polishing, but please sign up! v6.lextreme.com

Take the pan off, scrape the surfaces clean and use Ultra Black RTV. That's many times better than the quark crap that's OEM.

1mz-fe. Go get it scanned with a scanner.

There are no auxillaries... It's stock LoL! Only rescently did any OEM's start including auxillary input/outputs of any kind. You'll need to get an amp that will work using high level inputs (i.e. speaker inputs). Most descent amps of any kind will accept high level inputs, tho actual low level specific inputs give better quality. That or rip all of the stock (blah) out & replace the headunit+stock amp.

For '98, all the engines were the same.

I also, always have mine on. The old yellow ones just look so cool, you can't leave them off LoL! +1 modding the relay feed so the fogs are on anytime you wish +2 'cause the extremely bright yellow tinted projector fogs look so pimp with the 6000K phillips HID's woot woot!

It's basically the opposite formulation of normal Seafoam. I've used it, but couldn't tell anything one way, or another. My fluid never stays in there long anyway. You could always do it & flush it a week later & see what's up.

http://lextreme.com/v6/viewtopic.php?t=16

I think he means pay $225 for 10m worth of work & some rather inexpencive parts & some "useless" stuff to tack onto a bill. I try to have an open mind with people... I use the 5 min rule. Once you have any tools, and preperation work done. I understand if the process is gonna take more than 5 min & you simply don't have any intrest in working on a car. Pay someone else! Short of that, unless you're paying me to do it; DIY not DIFM!

I'm simply stating the specification & functions of the ECU & the sensor.

Yep, the A/T cooler lines are 3/8".

If the coolant temp sensor is not up to (around 162*F normally), the ECU's do not use full timing advance & prevent high rpm operation under load & also lock out any O/D gears. They also will run progressively richer, the colder the CTS, to speed warm-up time.