Toysrme

I wouldn't buy a new one, they're expencive! TAPRecycling.net Or get a URD lightweight pulley http://www.urdusa.com/product_info.php?cPa...s_id=1230100022

1) Don't type in all caps. Caps = shouting. Shouting = annoying & harder to read 2) That's how all heater/fans should be operated 3) Load test the battery, test the current draw with the car off, test the wiring

If yours become unglued, I wanna see it! Anyways, most of the time they're $150-300. Toyota completely quit using harmonic balancers b/c they achive full balancing internally. I don't think they have used something external since the old A & R engines. What they have now is simple harmonic dampener. It has a "rubber-ish" intertia ring inside it that lessens the shock on the belts during rpm changes. That's what Toyota calls a "Crank pulley"! ^ You mean the CV joint. Replace the boot. If it's clicking, replace the whole half-shaft.

What year is it?

Really? A little speeding ticket like that here would be like $70, but they make you pay like $100-200 in court costs depending if you just show up & pleade G, or if you pleade NG & have to come back.

TapRecycling.net They're not "rare". There are a bunch of CE's floaing around. What you'll find, is that there just are not many wrecked ES's anywhere handy to anybody. When someone does wreck one, they tend to migrate to some unhelpful location nobody ever finds them at. :\

I don't think you need us. You've pretty much answered your own post. Somebody needs to set histhrottle plate back where it belongs & reset his ECU. Just make sure you don't have any other vacuum lines, or electrical connections missing after you do that.

Ditto Reeeeee-thud Reeeeee-click Same thing. Started pinion, or flywheel/flexplate ring teeth are wearing out & not engauging all the time.

Nope, that means yours didn't come with them.

Get it in a dry enviornment to dry it out. Otherwise, you gotta take it apart in the oven. Not a big deal... See the angel eye post that is stickied, or any "how to do clear corners" post on how to take it apart.

Seat heater.

I agree. Anytime the ABS system is picky after having a brake, wheel, axle, anything-in-the-fender-well service done. it's because some dummy either hit the ABS sensor, or bumped the wiring/harness to it - which easily get's fragile over time because of it's highly exposed position to the elements, road debris, moving around & dumb service people. You can break the sensor, but check it carefully before replacing. Many times they simply get bumped *just* enough to move their mount, and the farther away they get, they stop working, or become erratic. (See later explaination of how a magnetic speed sensor works.) God only knows. Their lifespan varries so wildly there really isn't an answer. More CV boost fail early, as last however long they are suppose to. No, most autoparts stores I know of sell the complete half-shaft ready for installation for $40-80, depending on the model. 2 things to say about the new axle not working 1) The guy bought the wrong half-shaft 2) Not *all* axles come ready to go... Some do require parts swapping because they're not 100% complete No, the CV joint is the exact same. The Axle does not tie into the ABS system. Most likely (as said before) the mechanic just F'ed up and killed a wheel speed sensor. The exciter ring I wouldn't have them change the axle The Exciter ring. Ok... Most of the time, when you need to tell how fast something is rotating on a car, you use an electronic speed sensor. Magnetic sensors are simple. On one side you've got a perminant magnet, and on the other you've got a wheel with teeth on it. As the teeth fly by the magnet, it prodecuses an A/C current. If you take a computer circuit programmed to watch the frequency of that A/C current - you now know exactly how fast something is rotating! The wheel with teeth on it has many names, but a common one is the exciter ring because... It's obviously the msot exciting thing of all time! Boot life varies between 10-15 years or 100,000 - 250,000 miles depending on driving habits (life is reduced by city driving and cold winter weather). Boots should be inspected frequently after 100,000 miles for signs of splitting and gease leakage. If caught early, before alot of grease leaks out, you can simply buy two $30 boot kits from Toyota discount dealers like 1sttoyotaparts.com Each kit comes with two super high quality genuine Toyota boots, Toyota boot grease and Toyota boot clamps. Have a Toyota dealer or Toyota speciaty shop install the new boots and then you can drive another 10-15 years or 100,000 - 250,000 troublefree miles. Most owners do not understand the factory original axles / CV joints will last 500,000 miles if never starved of grease due to torn boots, so they let auto shops and parts stores talk them into buying replacement rebuilt axles whenever the boots tear. Then they end up with auto parts store quality axles and boots which only last half as long. Ya, 10-15 years sounds good. 15 sounds longer than I've had one personally last, but I guess someone driving in good conditions on mostly flat & striaght roads could do it. Chekc the boost every oil change. What monarch said. The CV joints themselves will last a long, long time at stock power levels, as long as they are lubricated. AFA the lifespan of OEM parts VS rebuilt, or new parts. Sean McElligott is the only person I know that can give a good representation of their lifespan. Many people (Including myself) were not able to get 10 years out of the stock CV boost before they split & the outer axles were damaged. Sean has been driving far above stock power levels for a few years now. NOT counting boot related damage of the first set: 2x OEM Toyota replacement CV joints (new half-shaft) 2x Autozone CV joints (new half-shaft) 2x Autozone CV joints (new half-shaft) and finally, he split one replacement half-shaft in half. NOT the joints... The F'ing AXLE. AFA replacement parts, to me, the axle is apparantly one part where it doesn't make a crap either way. So save your money.

LoL! ya, 2x 10mm bolts.

The front valve covers are a completely joke. Unclamp the breather hose, remove 8x 10mm bolts, valve cover comes off. *if* sealed really well, it make take a little wood block + hammer action to break the seal. If you've ever taken your upper intake manifold off to clean it, that's all the rear valve cover is. The back 4x 10mm bolts are a paint, but not hard, or impossible to get to. If you haven't, I suggest simply removing the hoses that conenct directly to the upper intake manifold & label them. That way they mroe or less point *exactly* where they need to go. The electrical connectors... Only fit in one place, so they're impossible to screw up. Then you get into the fun of taking the manifold off. :) Great time to replace spark plugs, great time to clean the entire upper intake by hand - giving you back a good 5-10 horsepower in the process, and cleaning the throttlebody, EGR, and IAC valves! No easier time to replace the rear o2 sensor! No easier time to delete the damned EGR system *provided* you never expect to take an emessions test. ;) If you can take the intake manifold off, the valve covers are just 8 bolts and some good tugging. ^ and the PCV valve. Once you learn to take that upper intake manifold off, oh my god. AFA maintance goes, "all roads lead to Rome" is basically what the UIAC is. If you can become comfortable taking it off... Full engine maintenece becomes such a small, and fast deal it's crazy.

This is the greatest "My CEL is flashing" post of all time! ROTFLMAO! Dude even took a video!!! Code 28 = o2 sensor signal on the rear (right hand) bank is incorrect over atleast 2 trips. If you download the 1993 FSM in the stickied post, you can see the trouble codes, and what to do. Go to page EG-366 You can buy generic splice in 1-wire Bosch o2 sensors for like $30-35usd. You should replace both. If you did that & reset your ECU you'd probably pick up some gas mileage. That's a code 61, not a 16. In the Automatic Transmission FSM go to page AX-83. That's the main speed sensor malfunction. It's the speed sensor, or the wiring for it.

I pretty much concour. The valve covers are like $12 a gasket, and in all honestly. While it may seem complex, and overwhelming, that's all it is. There is nothing really mechanically hard, or too complex for anyone *not* be able to accomplish a valve cover gasket change. It's nothing more than read the directions a few times & label a few hoses incase you just go brain dead for abit. ;) And with the proliferation of knowledge on internet forums like this, it's a huge safety net. Trust me, if all you're doing is taking valve covers off, you can't get into trouble too deep that somebody doesn't have an ansewr for you. ;) It's more of a sit down friday night & decide you want to do it, take your time on sat & if it's not done, finish on sunday morning. For someone experianced, it takes an hour or two with *basic* hand tools. On the rear main seal I would like to add a point. (That's the main seal on the rear of the engine that keeps oil from just dumping out. All engines have a front, and a back main seal.) A lot of mechanics have to drop the transmission to do a rear main seal well. That being said, many Toyota dealers can wiggle in there and do it WITHOUT dropping the transmission! That brings the dreaded rear main seal service cost down from like $800-900 to a more stomacheable $300-400. I still have the card from a Toyota dealer having quoted me $325 for a RMS change, and $450 for a RMS & rear valve cover change! If a mechanic quotes a ton, ask them if they're dropping the transmission to get to it. If they say yes, tell them Toyota dealers can accomplish it without doing so & they quote about $300-400 & see if they won't come up with a figure more manageable. If all else fails, go to a Toyota dealer for the RMS change. (Since you're inquiring about cost, obviously money IS an object. So my advice is to tell you to avoid Lexus dealers at all cost.)

Ya, that price is abit high. kbb.com All engines, until the '07 will be timing belts. Belts & Pump every 90,000 miles.

Nope. Black was a PPG until the last few years.

I can't speak for every speaker, or every setup. But the basic thing to me is to get quality, you need quality speakers & most of them take a little power to drive. The stock amps are driving 5-10, 15 watt 6*9's max paper speakers. So regardless of how good the speaker sounds, there is gonna be some BLAH as the volume goes up. No I ditched everything at one time. I'm driving some stuff off my HU.

Very. Depending on what car you have, the mount can even have the passenger axle going into it. Download the corresponding FSM to your gen car.

I think the problem is yall have the sensors mixed up. There is the cooling temp sensor on the lower radiator hose for the ECU, and there is another for the cooling fan ECU on the coolant "tree" where coolant exits the driver's side of the intake manifold. Go somewhere else.

That is incorrect. Red was only used in all aluminum engines from 1987 on. It was not formulated to work with iron block engines, so it never came in many of them. Toyota red claimed 5 year - 60,000 mile lifespan Pink is claiming 10 year 100,000 miles. IMHO Toyota red is no more than 2 years in an iron engine, no more than 3 in an aluminum one, and I simply wouldn't put it in an iron block AT ALL! Toyota pink, I would flush it @ 5 years, then talk to a bunch of mechanics after pnk had been around 10-12 years & see if they had any radiator failures coming in from the Pink coolant being in there too long. That way, if Toyota under-shoot the new coolant like they did the old coolant, you're not gonna be left high & dry.

Mine came from Westwood. IDK about performance radiator. I've never heard of them.

Ditch the stock headunit, ditch the stock amp. Infinity Kappa. Buy everything off eBay.