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About xxxavier2k

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    Advanced Club Member

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  • Lexus Model
    93 Toyota Windom
  1. Actually I just sold my '93 windom. Thinking about something with a turbo.
  2. Get the troublecode. Sounds like an intermittant solenoid, or a speed sensor problem. Well I got this fixed by changing the shift solenoids. But now it's returned. btw when I removed the former solenoids and checked them they were all working fine. So when I got a code 63 last week I decided to just swap the former #2 solenoid back in. Now I've got both a #63, and a #62. Indicating that both solenoids are bad. Could this be due an ECM problem? Should I try flushing could this help???..I doubt it since I changed the fluid when I swapped the #2 solenoid this time. Any thoughts??
  3. Do your wheel turn at all when you turn the steering wheel? Check the linkage between the steering rack pinion and the steering wheel shaft in the engine bay.
  4. Thanks again for all the posts guys. I realized that I had to reset my timing belt due to high engine temps, poor performance when cold, and failure to get past 140km/h...all of this after a port n' polish, and broken timing belt. I did this about a week ago and did the afm mod along with changing the crank pulley( I used a torque handle and impact wrench socket...after breaking 3 regular sockets). THe car now runs to 160km/h very quickly and has a very aggressive launch at near to and full throttle...decent tire spin. Next on the list of mods is an improved downpipe and cat deletion.
  5. Unclip thw two plastic clips at the top of the cluster cowl. Remove the two screws. Pull cowl towards you. Ensure that the steering wheel is fulling extended and in its lowest height position. Unplug odometer jack (lhs) and dimmer switch jack (rhs). Slip out from behind steering wheel. Done !
  6. Where'd you find your cluster?? I've been looking for awhile with no luck
  7. Looks a bit like the jack to the variable speed valve in the steering pininon.
  8. My rough shifting stopped after I realised that the cable was sticking in the casing. Instead of going through the pan drop and valve body removal I went for the temp fix of straightening the bend in the casing at he point where the cable attaches to the throttle body bracket. I guess I'll it properly shortly though!
  9. Yeah I agree with Toysrme ans sls about the '93 using R12. I 've read that they are conversion kits available for the change over to the more ozone friendly R134a. They don't work well together at all!!!. Anyways when the refrigerant is depleted the compressor does not run. You have to first recharge at the high side (lhs close to the charcoal canister in my '93 rhd windom anyway). Look out for air bubbles!!
  10. Ok I've done a port n' polish job and replaced my cracked accordian intake with a shorter rubber intake but I've lost power!! My rear (right hand) exhaust cam was initially off spec by one tooth (inner sprocket) so adjustments were made to the throttle position sensor to fix the idling issues. After the cams were checked due to tapping noises the rear was fixed and the throttle position sensor was readjusted. But theres no tire spin on intial take off (like there was b4 the port n polish) and mid and high-end power is poor. I had done a few mods b4 the port n polish like: 1. modding the ac
  11. No I don't think so. The cruise control unit sat next to the battery like in US models with the accelerator cable going to it and another going to the throttle. This sensor and motor has the valve open when the engine is off.
  12. Is anybody out there familiar with the parts indicated below. I've seen pics of US es300's and thought that the only difference was the EGR fittings. But I've been having problems with the idle speed not increasing when the a/c is switched on and looked a bit closer. The part labelled 1 seems to be some sort of sensor that works with the motor in part labelled 2 that opens and closes a valve independent of the throttle valve. I know it's not the IAC valve nor the throttle position sensor. So what is it????
  13. Based on your ability and stock of tools you could just buy the repair kit and do it yourself. It's basically the replacement of a number of o-rings and seals in the rack and the pininon. You'll need to remove the rack from the car though, which involves some work. Check the online manual for a more accurate idea of the total asmount of necessary then decide, but $1000 for parts and labour sounds a bit steep to me.
  14. A power steering fluid leak could be from: 1. steering rack o-rings 2. power steering pump seals 3. hydraulic radiator fan 4. damaged hoses/lines that connect 1, 2, & 3 Check them all!!
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