Toysrme

No more notorious than any other car. The ring seal is normally awesome a high mileage compaired to many. Toyota uses good factory ring sets. What kill them is the v6's leaking from old seals. Valve covers, sometimes the main seals. Sometimes a distributor seal. (On the dizzy engines) External oil leaks are minor problems that happen to all engines over time & can be forgiven. internal oil leaks are big flaws. We're lucky in that regard. White smoke is just water vapor steaming in the exhaust. The exhaust manifold gaskets are MLS (Multi-Layered Steel) Unless they're bent, they shouldn't need replacing. Like mnewland00 said, you can try just tightening the manifold bolts alittle bit. -Brandon

No, you can't use that radiator without a pressure cap. They sold you the wrong radiator. That's the 1994-1996 radiator. Feel free to bring that up & the fact that if you were to use that radiator on your car, (One without a pressurecap) it would blow up in short order. I know... I've seen Toyota dealers do it on v6 Camrys. I got mine from Westwood Autoparts (I think it's local to b'ham) for around $60-$70+core. Pull the bottom hose off the radiator, It'll drain some of the engine coolant (The actual engine block drain is on the back side of the engine), and dump all the coolant out of the radiator.

Clogged, or the thermostat isn't opening often enough.

OK, I got you now. Fill the radiator to the brim cold & fill the block via the itnake manifold pressure cap. Warm it up, let it cool back down & repeate.

Makes more since now. You could always be leaking oil into the cylinders. Are you burning oil?

Still in agreement. Timing's off somewhere. BTW while I normally wouldn't address something so old, nor against somene that can't rebut themself... An Mr2 with a 1mz-fe v6 swap almost blew up in the last month driving on the track. The stock amount of oil wasn't enough to pick-up in the corners once the oil was heated & pumping. So basically... Now everyone with a v6 that races their motor needs to run 5 1/2 quarts instead of 4 1/2 quarts LoL! Soooo... Toyota was wrong again. :) Hope ya still lurking monarch!

Ugh it depends. (It's 8 bolts). You dont have to drain the oil. Oil doesn't route to the manifolds. If your RVC gasket is leaking, yes it's going to run down the head onto the exhaust manifold.

WRong forum for an SC. Ofcorse it's bubbling over. You've uncapped a pressurized system. The boil temperature has probably dropped 40*f the second you uncapped it. Add coolant cold, not hot.

Struts, mounts, springs all around. I'm betting money you need sway bar bushings & end links. And atleast the dogbone engine mount & front mount. :)

Just a good 60' time would put him at very low 12's. He's got atleast a 5 grand draintrain to worry about & substantual wheelhop to fix. Like I said, that's an easy 11 second car if he were to really launch it. btw, that's 60 foot times LoL! His 0-60mph time is not *that* fast. The car is setup as a cruise & a bruiser. His first gear is locked at 7psi, not the 22psi he races at. A 2.5 second 60' time is what all the stock v6's would run for a 60 foot time. Most fast fwd'ers are running 1.7-1.9s 0-60 times. BTW. That run is on 205/50-R17's R-compound street tires. But not stock they're not! ;)In retrospect; it's surprizing how damn slow muscle cars actually were in factory spec. Most of them are high 14 to mid 15 second cars! My mother's factory A/T '02 Maxima SE (With *just* 245bhp/255ft-lb) traps the 1/4 mile on my gtech consistantly faster than 99% of factory muscle cars from the 60's, early 70's. My 80 yo grandfather's first comment driving mom's maxima was, "Now *this* is a musclecar!" He owned a buick grand national up until the last few years too... And the fastest of them all is a buick grand national at 13.5. That's what the new N/A 3.5L 2gr-fse's are trapping! The horsepower wars are back on in a really big way!

I didn't get a chance to ask him where he was calling from blake........all he said was it was international. A bunch of us should get together with Josh & Meghan when he returns. B) I've talked 2 him several times in the last week. Last day 2 call him! What we oughta do, is show up there a day, or two early. All chip in & turbo the escort. It's already running 12's N/A without slicks in street trim. Put that thang in the low 11's if he ever buys some slicks. That... Or we all chip in to put a new transmission in the escort. It's out of warrantee & The Ford dealership that rebuilt it rebuilt it incorrectly. He looses 3rd gear.

Fastest Camry in history. First time at the track. Full street trim with the new lower compression 9.0:1 pistons GT40/88 @ 22psi. Untuned on 9.0:1 pistons (Using previous 10.5:1 piston tune, same psi) 468 WHP and 431 ft-lbs - 599bhp / 551ft-lb. Street tires, all subs/audio still in the trunk. No brake boosting at launch, just idle, gas, and go (keep in mind, it's a 4500rpm stall convertor, along with a 7psi first gear boost limit giving him the 2.5s 60' time). Small clip of one of the passes: This is an easy 11 second car with slicks, a tune. NOT including the engine can handle alot more boost on the new pistons. The man himself:

Exactly. 'cause our transmission fluid doesn't cool in the radiator. There's another cooler sitting right infront of it on our car that cools the tranny fluid. They swapped to the in-radiator cooler, years later. So me & steve were wrong to some degree <hah pun>. :) But, the ECU still looks at post radiator, and post engine fluid temps & regulates the transmission shifting from limp/warm up mode to normal based on it. So you were overheating & that caused the ecu to lock out the transmission when it went in limp mode. I digress. Useless trivia.

I'm simply very skeptical on it. Of all the people crying BS when I told people I was getting better mpg running about the same ratio of acetone in my gas, you still see the random post on TN of someone showing they picked up a consistant mpg, or three with it so...

In the oil? I wouldn't. Follow the directions. It says on the bottle how much 1 pint treats. (I think 8-10 gallons. So you would want 1 cup for our oil) That's how I remember it, but look on your bottle.

idk. I like how anylisis comes out on alot of oils with LC20. You run across a few oils that don't like it tho. FP60... I'm skeptical about as a gas tank addative. It'll increase the octane, and I have no doubt it'll wick moisture like most addatives that are oil based will. I just fail to see how it actually cleans anything internal to the engine at the recommended 1008:1 ratio it's mixed with. (2oz per 10 gallons)

In my experiance not really. The problem you run into is that the carbon get's baked on so long it doesn't just need a degreaser/solvent, it needs a scrubbing.

Ya, rockauto pretty well kills alot of chain stores. Even with shipping. & Sometimes you can find coupons for them in online searches. :) KYB-GR2's are stock. Aftermaret KYB-GR2's are even better. Tokico blue's are love/hate & years ago there was a question of themb lowing out on really stiff springs. (IDK what happened with that. I guess they fixed them?) Monroe sensatrack "level 2's" (They come in 1-2-3, no idea what they call them) Are "comperable" to a stock ES/Camry's KYB-GR2. That's the OEM replacement on Caddies. In other words... They're likely crap for dampening. Just ebay some KYB-gr2's.

You can try it? The Toyota parts bin *is* huge. Maybe you'll get lucky & they were binning them. The famous Mk II's use alot of parts from the Camry platform... That's why a Windom/ES looks almost identical to the rwd MkII's.

My same reply as clublexus. :) P0500 is the speed sensor. The transmission most likely just can't figure out which gear it needs to be in. it's hard for a computer to figure it out when all it knows is how far you're pushing the pedal & what rpm the enigne at. It may be faulty enough so that it doesn't know to start in first gear, bawahahahahahahahahaha! rosecityrain, in your case, the cooler flow was likely blocked, causing poor fluid pressure in the transmission - in which case the thing doesn't have enough strength to hold all the parts together to keep you in gear. That, or it was overheating & the computer put it in a limp mode to save the transmission from major damage.

No. The A/C compressor is still going to take almost 10bhp to drive. Just like the alternator. Alternators take mechanical power from the engine. They don't give it back. By stand alone, they mean stand alone engine management, and stand alone ignition systems. Which is completely retarded, as overall power requirements for even the largest ignition systems is still low. From your discription, the seller sounds like a tard just looking to sell something. I would be inclined to believe it's just the normal 80-90amp alt.

So... I've been running mobil 1 5w-20 synthetic since january anyway. Good for me. Apparantly I missed that in March, Toyota put out a TSIB that approved 5w-20 GF-4 oils for use on most of the older engine blocks. Which is fine for me. A couple horsepower, easier pumping, better cold starts, no downside. Everyone else should pimp it. Like always. Mobil oil's put out phenominal stats on Toyota v6's (and ofhand, everything else).

Nope, but I wouldn't see any benifit to economy. My base fuel pressure is 60psi & like 71psi @ wot. I'm getting sub 20mpg right now. Compaired to someone running 10w-40, or 15w-50 (eeek) I'm sure there's a gain. Personally. I'm going to stick with the 5w-20 m1 synthetic. I'm gunna make another thread here in afew b/c this one is long & nobody in their right minds sits throuh long posts where information shold be at the top is way down. Toyota approved all the older engines like ours for the GF-4 specification. That means 5w-20 is approved on all the VZ's, JZ's, UZ's, FZ's. All the engines ever optioned in a Lexus.

Exactly. Nothing you suck through the intake is really going to clean the intake. The purpose is to clean the valve area in the heads, and combustion cahmbers (Some 2- 2 1/2 feet of intake track away - that's along way.)

Incorrect. The Camry platform did not convert to R134a until the mid generation update for 1995. R12 was used through the end of the 94 production run. I would buy freeze 12 before converting to 134a. R12 isn't illegal. It simply requires a liscence to buy.