SKperformance

Get your dog bone engine mount fixed first as it failed and allowed the engine too move too much causing it to break the flexible pipe. After market y pipes are cheap but are no where close to original quality.

Every time you start the car it resets.

For my 98 ls400 How much for both front upper control arms both left and right rear lower control arms , the ones closest to the front of the car. both engine mounts and the tranny.

I still have the a/c cooling fan on the outside of the rad which is a "pusher" , the one i installed is a puller on the "inside" of the rads. I will be installing a variable fan controller as soon as it gets here to kick in when needed as well as run the fan for 30 seconds after shutdown if needed.I need to get a temp gauge to monitor it properly though to see if it is working up to par or if i need another one added as a pusher , or set up the a/c fan to turn on also.

When i don't use the 94 octane my transmission shifts like a 16 year old, and it takes forever because the timing is retarded from the octane.

For those who believe that aftermarket glass is always great. Next time you are driving around look at a cars windshield from an angle such as the side looking from the left to right so the bow of the glass is seen ans see how many wavy windshields can be seen. My oem glass is pitted to hell and has 3 chips but not a single crack as it is molded perfectly to the car when it was dead straight and true. I know as soon as i remove the glass it will allow the car to flex and move out of this position allowing it to crack more easily OEM or not.

Only way to tell for sure is to use a pry bar and spread the joints for play.

Where is it leaking from ? It may be the valve that controls the assist level going to the intake that is allowing fluid to be burnt in the intake .

Spray some pb blaster in the lock assembly , it may be sticking or the spring is shot on it.

Umm did you ever check your fan clutch to make sure it is engaging properly ? Have someone turn the car on for a minute and then have them turn it off while you look at the fan. If it stops spinning with the engine it is good if not the silicone inside is dead. At high speeds it will over heat but at low rpms it will function fine. I would still change the rad cap.

Is it on the side of the engine compartment fuse box? If so those main fuses are stuck in there rock hard and take a pair of pliers to get them out with some pb blaster. Pop the glass cover off and pull real hard.

All cars do not take o2 sensors readings until they reach a certain temp as they will not make usable readings until hot.

carson or ltunedparts sells them

For having such high NOX still after getting new cats you still have a problem which will kill these new cats also.

Electric fan Ok well as mentioned in another thread my fan clutch has locked solid. From research it seems the fluid gets old and low so it spins too slow then it hardens and locks up completely. I notice after going for a 4 hour drive through the country side that i a new jet engine. When i got home i found the fan stayed locked up until 3000 rpm before letting go and slowing down but it would still catch right back up if i slightly lowered the rpms. It is basically a silicone that is supposed to be available at Toyota dealers . It ages and causes overheating and water pump bearings to go. So i had options. 1. replace the fan clutch with a new oem $200 2. replace the fan clutch aftermarket $100 3. get used clutch from a wrecker as 1990-2000 LS400 use the same part unless it is a 98-00 which had an optional towing package as such had a modified fan temp. $100 4. get the fluid from Toyota and rebuild it myself it it was not destroyed inside $10 5 . switch out to an electric fan $70-300 depending on needs and set up . I choose to go with the top of the line syclone from flex a lite it is a 16 inch fan with 2500 cfm and only 17 amps. The syclone is the quietest fan FAL makes and works the best from everything i read in the past few days and about 8 hours researching fans for the first time in my life. You can get a universal fan for about $40 if you want but it will be nosy and not move a 1/4 of the air mine does . I choose to over do it and keep it high end like the rest of my car. I also had a choice of a dual 2 inch pair with the same cfm but more amperage. It would have been more balanced with 2 but i wanted higher flow and efficiency to be quiet and lower amperage. Also the dual was a $150 more . I picked up the fan locally as i could not wait for it to ship and be delivered from the states for a savings of $40 . I paid 170 and it lists at jegs and summit for $130. I wanted to get the variable speed controller also but it costs $190 here and only $82 from jegs so i ordered it from summit who price matched it from jegs and i will get it by Tuesday. It will allow the fans to come on at a set temp @ 60% and a higher temp will ramp up the speed if the temps keep climbing until it gets to 100%. I installed it last night and have a switch and fuse connected to the battery and the wires are run into the cabin so i control the fan completely. I was more than surprised that running the car in traffic that the temp needle does not move over the half mark without the fan on . It is weird that no fan being used keeps the car in the right range as i kept waiting for it to start creeping up to turn the fan on but since it is not an incremental gauge that reflects real temps it does not move as long as it is in a really wide range of temps until it gets outside of the set range. I had a timing belt change a few months ago so the bolts were loose . I also believe that the fan got burned by the techs at Don Vally Lexus torching the bolts and cooking the fluid which caused it to fail because they were seized , also it had new nuts installed also. Once the bolts holding the fan are removed pry it back slowly at each corner using the fan and the bolts. Then reinstall 3 spacers on each stud and reinstall the nuts. You do not need to remove the shroud but i did remove the 2 upper brackets holding the rad as it was only 2 and allowed some space to move it around. To install the fan it comes with nylon studs which are pushed through the fins which is really scary to do at first but it will not leak . You use a Phillips screwdriver to make the openings then slide the studs in and then add the supplied washer and quick nuts. I mounted it on an angle as it fits right against the rad . I wanted to find a way to mount it as close to the stock fans position as possible and use the existing shroud and block the areas around it but it seemed like too much work so i said screw it for now. I was also worried it would not be able to pull enough air in as it is a change in design . I was wrong , when it is on i can feel the air pass by my hand from the upper and lower grilles. Also it is soooo much quieter than the stock fan at any speed. The best part is , with the fan off the car is so damn quiet. Here's to not sounding like a freight liner 18 wheeler going down the road. No offense trkn1 Once i get the fan controller it will work perfectly and look clean . The car starts so quietly and the fuel economy has gone down from 9L/100km to 6-7L/100km. The car is much more responsive but the transmission is kicking down all the time since it was being drained by having the fan drag all the time . So in a week or so it should be good. If you know what you are doing it takes 40 minutes maybe ,i took 2 hours as i was learning along the way. Cost $170 fan FLX-398 , $80 variable speed controller FLX-31165 time 1-2 hours unless the fan bolts are seized. Where the nylon studs push through the inner rad and the gap between the 2 rads. This shows from above the fan , you can see the old studs on the water pump where the old fan was , One stud is missing a nut as it got damaged . Best shot of the fan inside the original shroud Power steering filter Most have removed the PS solenoid and cleaned the mesh but i did not want to buy seals or a unit and decided to see if this would do anything first. The power steering filter i added just like the ones i used on my ES 300 which have tranny issues. It is a small cylinder that has a magnet and bypass if it gets clogged. I changed my PS fluid 6 months ago and it felt better but i knew it was never perfect. So after saying i was doing this for a year now . I finally loosened the ps reservoir. Connected the hose 3 inches long to the small return hose . Then added the filter and made a maze of hose going around the back of the reservoir to go to the front again to prevent it from kinking. It sounds more complicated than it is. You need to put a bit of pressure on the metal lines to get the best angles. Afterwards everything reinstalled perfectly with the filter sitting behind the reservoir and the hose going over the bracket to loop down and back to the res port. So it has been 4 days since i added it . Every single day it has gotten better to the point where i feel that i have power steering assist again. I can actually feel the speed changes with the assist level change where before it was on the least bit of assist possible. So for a $10 filter which wix makes, ( mine are branded by ford for a recall they had ) but are the same thing as the wix versions and were dirt cheap as i bought a case. The power steering unit uses transmission fluid so the filter is made for just this type of app . I love power steering again. It is the best thing in the world to do for peanuts. Crazy gains to return the luxury feeling again , especially rolling on 20's . Cost $10 fluid and filter time 30 minutes Really hard to see the filter but that blue ford logo is the filter. The new hose is from the filter.

Speed sensor but i would lean towards the valve body not being rebuilt and the old lines having debris clogging the new tranny up , search the old threads for me using the wix inline transmission filter.

The temp sensor we are talking about is the one for ambient (outside) air temp not coolant temp .

The squeal is form poorly installed pads. It is either missing or has a broken clip that hold it properly , or it was not installed using slider grease or the pads have no anti squeal coating on the back of the pads to keep them in place , simple fix and not the parts but the installers lack of knowledge.

Are you using premium gas?

I guess you already had an alignment after the rack? I would throw a transmission inline filter from wix to make sure the whole thing is clean and then sea foam the engine to make sure the vac is up to par.

It can be refinished , i would find a local furniture refinisher to fix it up cheaper than the steering wheel guys who charge a few hundred for sanding and reapply the finish.

both c pillars buckled the car is totalled , but some one will put it back together on the road in a few months.

moved to the LS section

I would never accept aftermarket glass on any car, it always has waves unless it is up to LEXUS OEM standards which is why the cheaper one is $300 because it has much less layers coatings and quality control.

It is your cap , had it happen multiple times and the new seal on the rad cap stop the fluctuation.